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what bypass module if any for a 06 f350

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130032
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 9:09 PM


Topic: what bypass module if any for a 06 f350

Posted By: ace_boy2099
Subject: what bypass module if any for a 06 f350
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 1:17 AM

I have a 2006 F350 Super Duty (no chipped Key) and am looking into installing a Compustar alarm to match my 99 F150, (Compustar Pro P2W900FM-AS) and need to know what Bypass module (if any) I need for my vehicle? At glance of Compustars web site I see them advertising fortin, iDataLink, Blade, and (i for got the 4th).

 I've looked on Fortins site and they aren't showing anything for a 2006 Ford Superduty, Just 2007+, and I just sent an e-mail to iData but don't know when if at all they will reply (first time looking around for myself). if anyone can give me advice on what to look for or which one is what I need I would appreciate your help with it.

Vehicle looking into installing onto:

2006 Ford F-350 XL
6.0 PowerStrokeTurbo Diesel
I am also looking into a Power Windows, Mirrors, and Locks conversion too. If any one has any info that can help with that too please share.




Replies:

Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 4:17 AM
bypass not needed on a '06 Super Duty..did one two weeks ago.
mark




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 12:41 PM

ok, Thanks for the info. That means all I need is the alarm module itself, It has the provisions for power locks and what not (once I install them) and any add-ons that the alarm company makes for the alarm. Correct?

on a side note, How hard would you say this would be for a first time installer in their driveway? I've done a couple wiring projects just not on this vehicle. Even though I wish I could re-dothe alarm on my 99, Installers just shoved it under the dash and zip tied it down, Wires are a mess.

Again Thanks for you help.





Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 12:57 PM
Before tackling a remote start you have to ask yourself 2 questions.
1) Do you own a decent DMM and know how to use it?
2) Have you done other installs and are you confident on your knowledge with a vehicle's 12v system?

If the answer to either question is "No", then you are better off finding someone to do it. But make sure to do your research so you don't get a hack installer who doesn't care.

If the answer is "yes" to both questions then dive right in but make sure to test each and every wire. And we are always here if you need some help along the way.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 11:38 PM

1. I'm sure I can find one. and figure it out
2. Other Installs? In general Yes, I've installed many a things on vehicles, Strobes, Stereos, Sub system etc. Install Car alarms, No, This will be my first. Am I confident, Yes, I believe I can do it, Just need to know what all I need for my application.

While On the topic some pre-purchase research, Does anyone have a diagram/list of wire colors and locations needed during an alarm install (I will check around the site after I send this to see if one is here but I am only expecting to find maybe a color chart or something like that.

Thanks to all who have and will help/assist me with this.





Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: January 05, 2012 at 12:35 AM

OK, Since I can't edit my post I will have to do it this way. I found a listing on the site with wire colors and locations, Only thing is it is for a 2006 F250, I'm sure it would be but I want to double check with you guys if you know wether it is the same for the F350?





Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: January 05, 2012 at 5:00 AM
it's the same




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: February 07, 2012 at 10:10 PM

OK, Quick question for you guys, (anyone who has installed an alarm in one pf these trucks).

Where have you put the brain boxes and what did you have to do to make it work? I went out to the truck today to try and pre-plan where I want to put what and I came up with 2 ideas for the brain box/control madule (whatever you want to call it) one is under the dash about middle truck (approx behind radio), and the other is on a piece of sheet metal screwed to the back wall behind the carpet, However for this I will need to expand ALL the wiring to reach the front, and possibly even get an antenna extension.

Incase I decide to go the back wall route, Does anyone know of a place to get CHEAP wiring??? if not online somewhere close to the Holiday, New Port Richey, Port Richey, Hudson area in Pasco Florida?

Thanks in advance,
Ace_boy2099





Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: February 07, 2012 at 10:41 PM
hi,
if you remove/reposition the interior fuse box (4- 10mm headed screws), there is a brace you can fasten the alarm/remote start module to using cable ties.
route the wiring upwards, follow how the factory lays their wiring. fasten your harness to theirs.
most of your remote start wiring (ignition switch, lights, horn) is available at the back of the fuse box also.
mark




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: February 26, 2012 at 4:11 AM

OK, I started this yesterday and here is basically what I have done or planned, If anyone can chime in and give help or advice on where to connect what (and if what I have seems good to your knowledge), I would be appreciative. I am also using the wiring info from here for the 2006 F250 for my F350 but some of the terminology has me thinking "is this right?"

I'm still working on it, But don't want to have the truck down (too long at a time) while installing.

[IMG=https://img818.imageshack.us/img818/8562/wiringlayout1modifiedfo.jpg">[/IMG">
Uploaded with ImageShack.us I can't get a Thumbnail here so here is the link to the pic on imageshack

For CN3- P9/P15, I am considering trying to put some kind of light ring around the keyholes of the handles and was thinking if this could do it when I unlock/Disarm the truck, it would turn on the key hole light rings, I'm not sure if this would do that though, any ideas?

Another question I had was seeing how the antenna for this setup is on the 6-Pin wire and my OP500 is of the 4-Pin variation, Would it hurt the controll box if I had a "dead" wire from the 4-Pin antenna for programming purposes in while the antenna was on the 6-Pin wire? ( I can upload the other 1/2 of this diagram if anyone wants to see it.)

Thanks in advance for your help on this, and thanks to those that have helped already too.





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 26, 2012 at 9:30 PM
you said you own an OP500 programmer, so for your custom light application, use a domelight trigger which will only be active for 45s upon disarm.

1) change any POC 1-9 to optional setting 9 (domelight)
2) go to option group 3-02 option 3 (45 second)
3) connect poc to whatever application you want to use it for.

only have one cable connected to the 4pin or 6pin for programming. Using both ports will burn the brain circuity. use one or the other ONLY.

btw you should use a version 1.4 or newer install guide, that ensures you will have the complete programming table. I suggest V3-V6.0+
CN3-3 Not Needed
CN3-8 used as in input not output. This is to detect if you left the rear gate open.
Cn3-9 you can change its function to what ever purpose you wish.
CN3-10 Connect to door triggers to detect open state of doors. direct connection to car
CN3-13 not needed will arm alarm with lock
CN3-15 connect to car disarm, some models dont have a factory alarm
CN3-17 dont need as you have a siren
CN5-2 this is the wire you want to use to make your trunk pop, or in your custom setup to unroll the cover.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: February 26, 2012 at 10:53 PM

Do you happen to have some kind of scan of the newer version guides? This is the one that came with my control box. I scanned it so I could ask all my questions in the easiest way I could think of. The option table chart provided is the 1.4 version, is there a newer on of these too? I'd imagine that this wouldn't change (aside from some wording maybe)

for the antenna, It wouldn't hurt to have both wires in the control box, Just that before programming with the 4-pin, Disconnect the antenna from the 6-pin wire, right? Essentially a cable is just an extension cord of sorts, nothing on it unless it's plugged in, right?! or would it confuse the box to have signals from both ports? (at different times)

Did you mean 3-2 is not needed and I can use 3-3 (POC1) for the domelight trigger?
3-10 - the (+/-) threw me off, Then I saw in the middle the "door trigger polarity". Direct to vehicle, Got it.
3-12 - Do I need a delay timer for the glow plugs like stated in the 06 F250 wiring chart on here? how would I go about making one?(if needed)
3-14 - Is this suppose to be for the temperature start thingy feature? what would I connect this to?
3-15 - Don't have factory anything, this alarm will be the sole keyless/alarm on truck.
Inshort, anything with POC does not need to be connected to anything for the unit to work right.

5-2 - ok, so this could latch for x-seconds to roll the cover open?!, how would I go about making it run in reverse to unroll and close the tonneau? (maybe as an AUX line my only option)
5-3/4 - for this I would wire the drivers and remaining doors seperate (per wiring "instructions" on site here) and turn off priority by OP500 and they all open at once right? Then, later, if I change my mind I can turn it on with the programmer.
CN1-6 has me torn, I want to have the parking lights come on when it is remote started and all like it is suppose to be, however, when I send a command like for it to lock or unlock, I'd almost rather see the directionals flash instead of the parking lights, if it cant be done then I will leave it the parking lights.

Thank You for your help on this, I want to make sure I have everything right.





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 28, 2012 at 12:04 AM
the options have been changed if you have the newest flash on the brain.
you can leave both the 6 and 4pin connected, but just make sure the antenna is disconnected at one end.
CN3-2 and CN3-3 do not need to be used. You can use CN3-3 as the domelight trigger. You can connect CN3-12, but its easier to set option 2-03 set it for option 2. this will be a default 12second delay OR you can program with the op500.
CN3-14 is not used for temperature start. not needed
CN3-15 not needed either

use aux for your cover. when you have the parking lights connected the flash with your unlock/lock/trunk. With all the questions you have, i honestly think you're in way over your head. You're pretty much being spoon fed the info, Im only being so generous with the insight. get the basics installed, then deal with all the POC/custom stuff.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: March 02, 2012 at 5:02 PM

Quick Question, Would I be able to hook up the Key Sence wire and set the Diesel Timer, or would there be a confliction??





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 02, 2012 at 9:51 PM
Look at option 2-03, that will answer your question.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: March 02, 2012 at 10:44 PM

tedmond wrote:

Look at option 2-03, that will answer your question.

OK, Lets see, Option 2-03:

Feature: "Diesel Timer" = "Would you like to use option 1 *Default* of using the wire?" or "Would you like to use option 2 of setting a timer?"
Hmm.., I'd like to set a timer, now maybe I can use the dual purpose wire for its other purpose.

Firstech, LLC CM6000 Installation Manual Pg.15 wrote:

Connector 3
Pin 12 BROWN / White - This is a dual-purpose wire that is selectable through option 4-09 in the programming able.
Select the polarity through the Glow/Key jumper on the control module. It can be set to accept either a positive (+) or a negative(-) wait to start input/key sense.

Default - Glowplug positive (+) or negative (-) input. The proper vehicle wire will show a (+) or (-) trigger while the wait to start light is on. This wire will delay the starter output momentarily to allow the glow plugs to warm up on vehicles equiped with a diesel engine. You can adjust the delay with option 2-3.

Optional - Key sense positive(+) or negative (-) input. The proper wire will show a (+) or (-) trigger only when the key is is the ignition. The purpose of the key sense is to prevent the system from passively arming or setting reservation mode while the key is still in the ignition.


When I look at option 4-9 it asks if I want Glow Plug (Default) or Key Sense input, If I put it to Key sense it isn't going to disable the Glow Plug timer, is it? That is, err, was my question.

Sorry for being in a rush to leave for work earlier and not explaining all this before.





Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: March 09, 2012 at 4:16 PM
I have a question for anyone still viewing this, Why would the LED in the A-pillar stay on (dim) when armed or disarmed, and while armed flash from dim to bright and back, Never going to the off state? The LED on the Valet button thingy acts fine (off and flash bright) but the led on the a-pillar is always on dim and flashes bright.




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: March 22, 2012 at 2:12 PM

note for my previous since i can't edit....

Called Compustar and they said the brain box/control unit can't support the LED and the RPS-Touch so Unplug one.

Anyone able to figure out which way the diodes are suppose to be in this linked pdf (My vehicle is the 06 Without Keyless (Page 16 of pdf)
https://www.amp-research.com/?dl_id=102

From what I can figure the stripe on the diode is suppose to be on the end with the 2 wires in 1 connector going towards (in the pdf a Power retractable step) in my case the Door Triggers, However, When i made this with wire and diodes I had it would either A- (with diodes in wrong direction) not allow power to alarm trigger wire (no surprise) or B1- (alarm on positive door trigger mode) see doors as open when closed and closed when open, or B2- (alarm on negaitve door trigger mode) not see the doors open or closed at all.

Does anyone have an idea of what I can try? Also sometimes when I apply the E-Brake and let the turbo timer run, everything but the engine shuts down (radio, A/C, etc...) but only sometimes, Any clues to why? what should I look for?

Thanks in advance.





Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: May 06, 2012 at 1:50 AM

ok, I was able to get the diodes straight from amp research for the power step they make and I rigged it to work for the alarm, However, It hasn't fixed the problem of the door triggers not being picked up. Does anyone have any suggestions for me?

I have also since unplugged the LED so I can have the RPS-Touch installed but the LEDs on the rps-touch device don't blink like in the video compustar has on youtube (like the RPS-II on my other vehicle does). It does seem to respond to my finger on the glass but it doesn't flash while armed. would not having the doorpin operational effect that? I can't set a code untill i figure out the door pin issue.

As for the turbo timer question, I believe my key sense thingy on the truck may be the issue because sometimes the chime won't work and if I wiggle the key slightly it will then read/sense and start chiming.

Other than above the unit seems to be working flawlessly so far. Thanks for all help provided so far and any in the future.






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