530t with resistor mod still wont work
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130041
Printed Date: May 18, 2024 at 4:05 PM
Topic: 530t with resistor mod still wont work
Posted By: ckk650
Subject: 530t with resistor mod still wont work
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 4:25 PM
Hi All,
I have an older car (1991 BMW E30 Cabrio) with very high load window motors. I wired in a 530T (stock), and tried all of the resistance settings. At the highest resistance setting, the front window rolls all the way up, but only goes about an inch at a time on the way down before the 530T relay clicks. The rear window won't move at all (instant relay click).
I did the resistor mod to increase the 530T resistance handling, and the result is unchanged. The windows work fine with the stock switches, but they are indeed very slow. Motors are probably very inefficient, tracks might need lube, etc.
Wiring to the 530 is done with 10ga straight to the battery and properly grounded. No difference with the car on or off. Stock wires from the switches to the window motors seem thick enough (at least 12 or 14ga).
Has anyone looked into further modifications to the 530T for very inefficient motors? More to the point, does anyone know exactly how the 530T senses the load? I'm comfortable soldering/rewiring the board (work at an electronics company with all of the appropriate tools and supplies). I'm wary about just replacing the new 150ohm resistor with something much larger without having any understanding of the circuit...
Thanks in advance!
--Ckk
Replies:
Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 4:57 PM
There are different modifications to the 530t depending on the build date on the module. Get that info and I can supply you with the modifications
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 5:08 PM
Lubricate the tracks first.
Posted By: talarchevy
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 5:27 PM
Yes, definitely lube window tracks. I had same issues with my 530t in an 04 silverado, I ran 4 ga ( yes thats right 4ga, lol) direct w/fuse from battery and my ground on 8ga(short ground). That fixed the problem. also ran 8 ga from motors to 530t. 9 out of 10 times both windows work with no problems, once in a while w/excessive load (HIDs, system, aux lighting, etc) will my windows slowly roll up or stop half way. This was without doing any mods to the 530t.I am interested in hearing about other mods though.
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Go BIG or go Home it might not be broke, but lets fix it anyway
Posted By: ckk650
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 6:34 PM
Thanks all,
metz35: I have a new version, it's the one with the 150ohm resistors already in place. Based on the directions, I removed the r32 and r40 surface mount resistors (looking at the circuit board I can see that those were just used as bypasses of the 150ohm parts. Dunno if there is an additional mod -- perhaps replacing the 150ohm resistors with 200 ohm or something.
I suppose I will have to lube the tracks. Not sure how to do that, actually -- is there a specific grease to use?
My fear is that the rear window moves perfectly fine with the stock button, smooth but slow, but with the 530 it doesn't move at all. Even if I lube the window track, I don't think it's going to go from 0 movement to 100%... If I have time this weekend I can take out the rear panels and see if I even have access to the rear window motor.
Thanks,
--C
Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 7:11 PM
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1069
here uploaded the DEI tech tip 1900. all about the resistor modification
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: January 04, 2012 at 7:42 PM
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 05, 2012 at 2:49 AM
When doing window closure, ALWAYS check window movement first and ALWAYS lubricate. Use a non silicone product such as Wurth spray but good old WD will do in a pinch, mainly around the mirror sail area, run the window up and down a few times after, make sure it's now faster and smoother.
I don't agree with the window motors on that car having a high power draw, especially the rears, could you have age-worn out motors as being 20+ years old?
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: ckk650
Date Posted: January 05, 2012 at 2:08 PM
Thanks guys,
As mentioned, I already did the resistor mod to the 530T and didn't see any difference in behavior.
Howie, I am assuming that the problem is old gunked up motors and non-lubed tracks (I have read that a good cleaning of the motor internals can help), but they definitely work fine with the stock motors and buttons even without a cleaning. It's only going to get worse when I put the top up and they have to slide into a relatively tight slot in the top.
I wonder if I can use the 530T output just to drive a relay rather than to drive the actual window. The key question there, even if it works, would be how to stop it since it would be unable to sense the load.
Perhaps there are other "timer-based" window modules that I can use if the 530 doesn't work?
Thanks,
--Carey
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 05, 2012 at 4:12 PM
Yes, 4 x 528t times set for 2 seconds longer than normal up travel time triggered by the orange GWA wire and 4 x 5 pin relays for the venting,
triggered by any aux. You will need to split both via 4 1N4004 diodes on each leg.
528t:
Orange to BLACK/ white on 528t
Cut up wire, switch side to orange ditto.
Motor side to yellow ditto.
528T Brown and red to constant live via a 15 amp fuse on each motor 528t and relay sharing.
Black to ground.
Relay:
Aux to 85.
Cut down wire, switch side to 87a.
86 and 87 to fused constant as above.
30 to motor side.
The whole thing being an expensive kludge.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 05, 2012 at 4:15 PM
Actually I didn't think it through, use a timed aux out for 2 seconds longer than window up link it to on when armed or not, up to you.
Then use as shown above to control the upside, relays being far cheaper than timers, your R/s becomes the timer. Still a kludge though.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: ckk650
Date Posted: January 05, 2012 at 6:44 PM
howie ll wrote:
Actually I didn't think it through, use a timed aux out for 2 seconds longer than window up link it to on when armed or not, up to you.
Then use as shown above to control the upside, relays being far cheaper than timers, your R/s becomes the timer. Still a kludge though.
Thanks! I was thinking the same thing -- buy a bunch of relays, sell the 530's on ebay, and drive diote protected voltage straight onto the switch wires using the timed alarm outputs. Totally a kludge, and it loses both the one-touch and the safety features of the 530. I wish I could find a real (full) circuit diagram for the 530 so that I could properly modify it to deal with this situation.
For now, I will wire power/ground and the trigger wires to my install location, and spend some time working on the window motors when I have finished installing the rest of the stereo and alarm parts.
Either way, thanks everyone for the advice!
--Carey
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