2012 nissan rogue, remote starter

Has anybody been able to SUCCESFULLY install a remote start in a 2012 Nissan Rogue WITH intelli-key? idatalink does not offer up a solution for that particular vehicle. AND apparently 2011 is NOT the same. 

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thetopinstaller

Have you looked into the Fortin bypasses? I had great success with their Evo-All on a 2010 Altima.
https://ifar.ca/en/vehicles/nissan/rogue/2012-intelligent-key/

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Fortin does list it with the EVO-ALL.  They group the 2008 - 2012 Rogue together with the same wire connections, colors and locations.

Here is a picture of an early 2011 Rogue ignition connector to see if that is the same :

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Soldering is fun!

Yes, I have done the install with the IdataLink and with the Fortin EVO-Can with the 4.0 Firmware. The Idatalink took me about 2 hours, the Fortin took me 1 Hour. The Fortin was a nice install, TX/RX on top of the ignition cylinder, Keysense wires around the back of the ignition switch, CAN wires in a nice long harness that goes to the OBD connection. In the drivers Kick Panel is two big white junctions. In the lower junction connection at the top left of the junction connection is the drivers door pin(white). In the top one, towards the top was Positive Parking Lights(RED). You can also find Positive Parking Lights at any of the Lighted dash switches, same color(RED). Ignition wires are shown in the above post.
For Disassembly, you'll need a Torx screwdriver. I think T-20??

Sounds the same.  Here is a picture of the Red (+) Parking Light wire  in the White upper plug in the DKP mentioned by Mr flobee4 :

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg is this uncanny, I thought I was the only person to have a croc clip on the black probe of my DMM!!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I may have you all beat. (although maybe not). On a secondary DMM of mine I hardwired a cigarette lighter plug ground to the lead on my meter. That way I can simply plug it into a cig. lighter plug and have an instant ground that I don't have to worry about coming off. Then if I need to test a ground connection I use either my Blue Point Computer Safe tester or my primary DMM.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Great idea on the cigarette lighter connection, Kenny!  On vehicles with an outlet that stays hot all the time, useful for probe power, too.

Here is my unusual piece of test equipment :

12 volt tone generator that only draws 8.8mA.  The audio output is great for checking the R/S outputs, etc, when your hands and eyes are busy elsewhere.

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Soldering is fun!

Note to HOWIE II:  Thats funny, we here the states call that an "Alligater Clip" LOL. Thanks for all the feedback!! We'll get right back on it!!

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thetopinstaller

kreg357 wrote:

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Great idea on the cigarette lighter connection, Kenny!  On vehicles with an outlet that stays hot all the time, useful for probe power, too.

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Funny you should mention that. I ended up making a quick connector for my blue point probe. Took 2 large alligator clips from an old AC/DC converter, soldered it to about 5' of 12awg speaker wire, then connected a universal female cig. lighter plug on the other end. This way I always have a quick constant power plug for my probe and don't have to worry about having the ignition on to test wires (especially on those vehicles where you have to disconnect airbag plugs, etc)

Sorry to hijack your thread.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

2010 Rogue here. For the 2 accessories wires, which control what? Does it has to be both install because I don't have relay handy. Just want the heater blower to work for now.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

Most Remote Starters have a provision for a 2nd accessory output. What make/model remote starter are you using?

Here are the usual outputs on a remote starter:
Starter Output
Ignition Output
Accessory Output
Programmable Ignition 2 or Accessory 2 Output

Now since the Rogue only has 1 ignition wire to connect to, you would use the programmable output set as Accessory 2 to run you 2nd Accessory wire. No extra relays needed, just figuring out on your specific remote starter how to program the programmable output. Its usually either a jumper that needs to be moved or a programmable feature that needs to be changed.

I have ready remote/a vital 24921(older model).
Its has 2 ign output but only one access. I thought I can program ign2 as access but I don't see it in the booklet.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

The Pink/White wire is programmable to accessory 2 under menu option 6 according to the Installation manual that came up when I Googled the model number.

yea, that's the ign2. Remember this is the older model 24921, how to tell is the antenna is just a foot of wire.  On the booklet that came with it, it doesn't mention/show how to program it.

So back to the question, do you know what/which each accessorie wire control?

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

never seen that unit... No manual for it that i can find. So we'll go back to the "old school" approach to making you a 2nd accessory output.You will need to diode isolate(both bands towards the brain) your status output(ground while running) wire so that it feeds your bypass and the new 2nd accessory output relay that you will need to wire in. The relay wiring is as follows:
85 status output of remote starter
86 accessory wire from remote starter(just need to tap into it)
87 Fused Constant 12 volts
30 Output to 2nd accessory wire

Now I'm giving you these directions because the best practice is to duplicate all wires that get power with the key. You want the remote starter to mimic what the key does. Failure to do so can cause check engine or ABS lights to come on or transmissions not shifting correctly.

If you truly are set on seeing what each accessory wire does, Simply jump the 12volt wire over to one of the accessory wires and see what comes on. If you are lucky, you would want to find the accessory wire that turns on the radio. Some cars have an accessory wire that only powers things like radio and wipers, other cars power those items and an ABS or Transmission computer. Hook it up without the accessory wire that turns on the radio and try to remote start it. If it doesn't start or it does start and you get a check engine light or ABS light then you know you'll need to add the relay in anyway. I personally bench prep all my work, to add a relay in takes 5-10 minutes. If you had to do it while its already installed in the car, it can take you 45 plus minutes. Much easier to just do it the right way the first time... Plus it save your back from the extra 45 minutes...lol

Good luck, any other questions don't hesitate to ask, I've done many of these cars.

Tho you should always check like Flobee says, i can say that on a new Rogue you are safe to connect the 2nd Ignition on your Rs to the 1st accessory in the car. I've done it many times with no incident, tho it does allow the heat controls to stay on during crank....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Here's the comparison of new and old.

About the relay, I'm not worried about it.  I just didn't want to use one/two if I didn't have to.  In this case, I might have to.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

I see now, so either wire in a relay like I showed you and get a true extra accessory output and don't use the pink/white off the remote start.

or

Do like Mike M2 said and hook up the pink/white to the accessory wire that turns on the blower motor and heater control. The side effect is that the heat will continue to blow while the car is starting. This is not a normal function, but he says it would work fine on this car. To test which accessory wire turns on the blower motor, simply turn the heat on and then jump each accessory wire one at a time to the 12volt wire in the ignition harness. The one that turns on the blower motor is the one that gets the pink/white wire.

I just had to prove I'm not crazy

Yea, I dont know why I wasn't thinking of that.  12v+ to one of the wire to see what comes on.

Thanks for your help.  I will discontinue this thread and continue on the other one I started.
Meanwhile, I know I'll be doing more of this so I just order 10X 20a/30a w/ wires relay $20.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive