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08 escape, python 574

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130098
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 1:17 AM


Topic: 08 escape, python 574

Posted By: danmc85
Subject: 08 escape, python 574
Date Posted: January 07, 2012 at 8:28 PM

hey guys

i was having an issue with my old python 990 alarm and remote start. so today i swapped it out for a python 574 which is 2 models newer.

anyways i have an issue now that i did not have on the old 990. whenever i arm the system it says a door open error message on the remote. i already know this is caused by using the domelight as a door trigger and it is staying on about 10-15 seconds after the car door is closed and armed.

I tried searching and i believe i found the answer and that is to pulse the headlights or factory keyless entry system lock fuction (if possible) using a relay at the same time the system arms as it will shut the dome light off.

I know on my factory keyless when i hit lock the headlights flash and the domelight goes off immediately. not so much with the 574 it says on, so i feel this would be the solution.

does anyone know how i would go about wiring this and what wires to use on a 2008 ford escape to complete this task?

thanks,
dan



Replies:

Posted By: shortcircuit161
Date Posted: January 07, 2012 at 8:57 PM
Not sure if this will help but the dome supervision wire is separate from the door trigger wire.

Even though the dome lights turn on when you open a door, if you tap directly into the dome supervision wire, it may avoid the "door open" message.

Door Trigger
GREEN/ purple (-) N.C.      
driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 14

Dome Supervision
gray/purple (+)
driver kick or SJB, gray 14 pin plug (A), pin 9




Posted By: jstruckman
Date Posted: January 07, 2012 at 9:54 PM
I am not familiar with Python models but on Autopage alarms you can program for a delay to arm the alarm, up to I think 45 seconds. I do this with my Oldsmobile as I use the domelight also for door triggers and it has a delay for the domelight shutting off also. This may be the simplest solution.

-------------





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 07, 2012 at 10:07 PM
use door trigger wire, or pulse driver door pin with the factory alarm rearm wire.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 2:10 AM
do i need to use a relay to pulse the driver door pin?

i wish i knew which wire the keyless entry pulses when i hit lock on my key because that would be perfect.




Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 2:51 AM
i suppose i could also do this, which i think i did on the 990 now that i look back on it.

in the settings menu there is:

Door Trigger error Chirp
1. On: if the door trigger is active when arming, the siren will emit a chirp and a message will be sent
to the 2way remote control as an alert
2. Off: an active door trigger when arming will not create an alert output

i suppose if i turn this off my problem will be solved, as long as i remember to keep the door closed (should never be an issue lol)

i think i may just go this route instead of changing all the wires around.




Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 2:58 AM
Hey guys I am looking to wire up my heated seats and rear defroster from my automatic climate controls module to the status 2 output on my python 574 in my 2008 ford escape limited, v6 if it matters.

I was just wondering how I would go about wiring this up. I know i am going to put both wires to that output someway, also diode isolating them, but i feel i may need a relay as 200mA isn't much but i am unsure which pins to use and what to put where. any suggestions?

I also tested both wires that i will need to use, they are latched when enabled by the push button, and unlatched when pressed again. the switch is not held in by any means, just push buttons on the climate controls.

H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT

Status 2 Output (Blue/White H2/3 wire)
1. Status: the output will activate before the ignition outputs turn on, and de-activate after they turn off
during remote start
2. Latch rear defogger: the output activates 10 seconds after start if the interior temperature is below
55¢ªF. It turns off after 10 minutes or upon remote start off
3. Pulse rear defogger: the output activates (for 800 ms) 10 seconds after start if the interior temperature
is below 55¢ªF.

posted_image

posted_image




Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 3:01 AM
both of those highlighted wires for the heated seats and defogger are negative (-) by the way, they are grounded when enabled. if that makes a difference.




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 6:01 PM
rear defrost/mirror - WHITE/ orange (-) latched at rear defogger switch

heated seats WHITE/ blue(-) (driver) gray / YELLOW(-) (passenger) latched at hvac controls

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 7:23 PM
tedmond wrote:

rear defrost/mirror - WHITE/ orange (-) latched at rear defogger switch

heated seats WHITE/ blue(-) (driver) gray / YELLOW(-) (passenger) latched at hvac controls


I already had this info but thanks for taking the time to post it.

I am running into an issue though, my defogger output that is supposed to put out a latched ground is not working when it is under 55 degrees, even when forced on via level 4 on the remote start transmitter. I am unsure what could be the issue. I kept my fluke multimeter on it from the time i enabled the remote start to about 5 minutes in and it never output any voltage, latched or pulse.

I have the output set as defogger latched via the programming menu pending the option menus are the same as the Viper 5904 as it was the only manual I could find for these newer units. The Viper 5904 uses the same main unit as the Python 574, only difference from what I could tell was the color OLED remote vs older lcd remote.





Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 7:26 PM
danmc85 wrote:

never output any voltage, latched or pulse.



I meant closed ground, I had the positive multimeter end on a 12 volt battery source and the negative multimeter end on the blue/white defogger output on the remote starter.




Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 7:38 PM
I am also having an weird issue that I can't figure out, maybe someone who has installed a lot of the newer dei units maybe able to chime in.

For some reason once and a while when I go to remote start my vehicle with the 2 way transmitter that it came with I will get an error message that says "Remote Start Error" on the display, but it seems it is just with the transmitter because i believe the remote starter is fine. After 2 or 3, sometimes 5 tries it usually starts right up. But the transmitter arms and disarms the vehicle perfectly every time the first time.

The reason why I think it is the transmitter or something related is because I can remote start the vehicle every time without issue using my iPhone as I have the Smartstart VSM200 module installed and connected to the bitwritter port.   I just don't understand how it arms and disarms perfectly but won't respond to remote start commands every time.


Side Note (prob unrelated, but I'll post anyways):
When I was first installing it was shutting after shortly after remote starting and I was getting 2 flash - Over-Rev errors via the status led because of my tach, which I do not understand as I used this same tach wire for 4 years with my older python 990 without issue. Anyways I just switched the system engine checking to Voltage and it has been working fine staying running.






Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 08, 2012 at 11:25 PM
tedmond wrote:

use door trigger wire, or pulse driver door pin with the factory alarm rearm wire.


I just ordered the DTIMAZDA module, I decided to do it right.

https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=460




Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 09, 2012 at 9:27 AM

If anyone has access to directtechs.com or motorcraftservice.com can anyone confirm for me that a 08 escape with v6 3.0L engine has a tach wire going to the computer at the pcm module under the hood on a GREEN/ BLUE wire?





Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 10, 2012 at 9:09 AM

I was just wondering if anyone has ever come across an issue where the Status 2, Latched Defogger wire (Blue/White) is not grounding when remote starting under 55 degrees on a DEI unit, mine happens to be a Python 574 in particular. Even if forced on via the remote function level 4 menu on a Python 574. The defogger shows engaged on the remote, but the wire does not change.

 I did change the output from a Status output to a Lached Defogger output in the features programming menu.

Any ideas?





Posted By: danmc85
Date Posted: January 25, 2012 at 9:18 PM
I just wanted to post that I have successfully finished installing this alarm and remote start back on January 15th. I don't need any additional help for these questions as I have them all answered and everything is working correctly.

Also this post on a different forum segment is related to this install if anyone else is doing a 2008 ford escape or similar: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130213~PN~1~TPN~3

Thanks,
Dan





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