2009 altima remote start issue

I have a 2009 Altima 3.5 SE with a Viper 5901 Remote Starter/ Alarm installed using the Flash Logic FLCAN. First and far most this car was a PAIN lol. Several issues. When I arm the car the alarm gives me a warning chirp and says 'sensor 2'. I have a dual prox installed in the center flip up pocket (for easy access). It does not do this a lot but enough to annoy me. Another issue is that if I leave the AC on it does not blow cold air until I actually start the car. The most mind boggling issue I do have is that if I Remote Start the car and I unlock my car using the viper keypad or try to put on the rear defrost through the key pad the car looses all power and the remote start disengages and restarts again. So on the remote it shows the rear defrost is on but it really isnt because it restarts. Also every time I unlock my car while the r/s is activated I hear the chirp slowly dying as the car shuts off. I have be dealing with this for about a year. Does anyone else have these issues. Thanks you guys are life savers.

poor ground must be causing the problem

on that note you have 2 starter wires, 2 ignition and 2 accessory wires.




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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

The air conditioner does not work on nissans pts period . While remote started. So that's not a problem to be worried about.
I'm not familiar with flcan. But a ground does sound suspect. But on that car it could be anything.


The Module does not control the A/C in these (Push to start) vehicles.
The reason why we don't control the A/C in these vehicles is to prevent damage to the A/C Compressor.

The vehicle itself internally monitors the pressure in the compressor and turns it off when needed.
We cannot externally monitor the pressure. Thus why it doesn't turn on uppon remote start.

FLCAN are rebranded idatalink modules.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Still don't use them . Blades only :(

blade modules are the best thing ever. In my opinion lol

much cleaner install and every vehicle platform is supported.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Yes... I have 3 starters lined up... all with Blade's. Easy prep, programming for both the bypass and the starter through my laptop. Will probably never go back... lol. Still hoping they hold to their date for the 7000 brain with the 2 flex relay outputs!!!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

These Blade bypasses are they easier to use then the FLCANs, what do you guys think about the Xpress DBALL it looks interesting ... I have changed the ground once before and it still did it the dame thing I actually put the ground on the bolt to where I seen Nissan put a lot of ground wires to behind the radio or the pocket not sure. And I seen on the DB ALL schematic that there is a wire I should run if the AC is not activated you think this will work for the FLCAN as well.

I've used the DB-ALL with some success. It has always been great as far as immobilizer, etc. But I've had a lot of them with certain features not working (tach is a big one, trunk release, door triggers, etc). I've been sticking with idatalink lately and they have been great so far.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Dball gets thumbs down for me, used 2dozen and had no real luck. Hit and miss

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

but why does my car remote say sensor 2 when i lock my car at times .. i have my prox sensor in the center pocket (for easy access)

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MECP Certified
Dont Ground Out!!!

A few thoughts

- I don't think the issue has to do with the bypass module. In my opinion, whether it's a separate unit or integrated units (like the Blade), when setup correctly they work great.
- I definitely agree with everyone on checking your ground connection to everything that needs a ground to run the vehicle (brain & bypass mainly). I've seen poor grounds cause all sorts of nasty bugs.

Could also be a combination of things
- If you turn on the rear defrost via remote and it's shutting down, it's possible the tach wire wasn't installed or was not programmed correctly.
If the tach learn is set too high, the rear defroster may drop RPMs once it engages and the remote starter may go into under-rev mode (can be easily checked via shutdown diagnostics).

If it was installed without the tach wire, (voltage mode or virtual tach), the drop in voltage when the rear defroster kicks on may be enough to make the Remote Starter think the car shut off. Therefore the remote starter will also shut down.

- As far as your sensor 2 showing up, it depends what was setup for sensor 2 (shock, prox, glass break, etc) that's picking up vibrations or sounds that may trigger it.