remote start in ’05 mercury mariner

Hello. Looking to install an add-on remote start to a 2005 Mercury Mariner (basically a Ford Escape) for a friend and had a few questions. I plan on using an Audiovox Prestiege AS-9075 unit and a Code Alarm PKU-F2 bypass unit. I cannot find any information about a neutral safety wire so it can't start the SUV if it is in gear. Any ideas on what I can do to implement that feature? Secondly, a reliable tach for this vehicle is at the fuel injector. Where is this located under the hood?

I came up with the following wiring diagram. Please let me know if anything seems wrong if your familiar with the unit. Thanks!

The neutral safety wire works as a valet. You add a toggle switch and ground the end. If a mechanic was to work on the vehicle he would flip the switch and the vehicle would not start with the remote. More like a safety issue. But if your adding a hood switch you can just ground the wire and I'll be fine too.

Hi Sparky, I use Audiovox. You don't need the relay from the Audiovox unit to the bypass. Just connect blue from AS-9075 to brown of bypass. I just did one of these too. I connected tach to the left front coil (orange / YELLOW).

I did my locks same as Ziggy & it worked beautiful.

lock & arm = (-) WHITE/ purple in DKP, harness to door

unlock = (-) pink/white in DKP, harness to door

Factory alarm disarm = (-) dk. blue/Lt. green in DKP, harness to door 

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You don't need to use the small BLACK/ red of the 4-wire aux. harness. Just hook up the red "lock" wire to WHITE/ purple.

The green "unlock wire goes to pink/white.

The small BLACK/ blue of the 4-wire aux. harness goes to dk. blue/lt. green. 

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One other note: If you connect your 12V+ Constant to the ignition switch, change both 30A fuses in Audiovox AS-9075 unit to 10A.

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Thanks guys. Concerning the neutral safety switch, I know about the toggle switch to disable the system but I would like the system to be disabled if the SUV is in gear. Or does the SUV already have a feature like this built in?

Thanks for the advice about the relay. The instruction manual states it is advisable to use the relay as the wire only provides 300mA. But if its fine to hook up directly, great.

Advanced, thanks for your help but you've got me a little confused. The instructions state the following concerning the 3 pin connector:

Connect the Red wire of the three pin connector to the driver’s door unlock motor leg.
Connect the RED / Black wire of the three pin connector to the unlock wire of the door lock control switch.
Connect the Green wire of the three pin connector to the driver’s door lock motor leg.

Your advised in your above post that the red wire is for locking, and the green is for unlocking. Does the manual have a typo? Also, do I need to use the RED / black wire at all?

Last but not least, according to the manual, I need 2 sources of 12V. Am I OK to use the the large black one in the DKP and the lt. GREEN/ purple one at the ignition harness?

The vehicle should have a built in neutral safety. You can do a simple test to be sure. In an open space, keep your foot over the brake pedal, put the car in gear and try to start it lightly. If it even attempts to crank at all immediately stop. But my bet is that it won't.

Can't help you with the lock wires... don't work with audiovox at all.

The bypass has a built-in relay which is why you don't need the external relay. The output is actually driving a relay.. you just can't see it.

You are ok to connect both to the large black wire in the DKP... I would not recommend using the ignition switch 12v and reducing the fuses like mentioned above... you are just asking for trouble.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Also, in addition to my question concerning the 3 lock wires, why wouldn't I need to hook up the BLACK/ red arm wire in the 4 pin harness (produces - pulse after unit shutdown)? I'm thinking if the unit shut down, the car's factory alarm should be re-armed. Thanks.

Hi Sparky,

I'm sorry, you are right on both items. I forgot that you were using an add-on remote start. Your door lock wiring choices above are exactly right. Yes, you can hook up the BLACK/ red of the auxiliary harness to rearm the factory alarm.

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Alright, so I mostly have this installed but have to finish it later this week. Everything is going smootly so far. I just have to hook up my locks and factory arm/disarm. Getting a little nervous because there are basically two harnesses put together to make up a big one and the colors are duplicating. What's the best way to test these wires?

Also, couldn't find the fuel injectors so I hooked up my tach at the PCM (left-plug/passenger side) WHITE/ pink wire. I read on another post that mentioned that wire will give a valid tach signal.

The best way to test the locks and arm/disarm is usually to turn a key in the door cylinder. However it doesn't work on all vehicles. You can also try testing by metering while pressing the lock/unlock switch (usually doesn't work for the arm/disarm though)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205