python 580 starter in 2008 sonata

I'll tell you right up front that this is my first remote starter installation. I'm finding that there is quite a bit of shorthand in the installation guide. Fair enough - meant for professionals. If someone is willing to throw me a bone and help with a couple of conceptual items, though, I'd sure appreciate it.

Installation guide gives the following details for the 8-pin remote start connector:

H3/1 Pink (+) ignition 1 input/output
H3/2 RED / White (+) Fused (30A) ignition 2/flex relay input 87
H3/3 Orange (+) accessory output
H3/4 Violet (+) starter output
H3/5 Red (+) Fused (30A) ignition 1 input
H3/6 Pink/White (+) ignition 2/flex relay output
H3/7 Pink/Black (+) flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay
H3/8 RED / Black (+) Fused (30A) accessory/starter input

I think I'm most confused about the #1 ignition 1 input/output connection. Will that function as the ignition output in my context? Am I correct that #5 & #8 should be connected to a constant 12V wire, with #1, #3, and #4 each connected to their respective circuits.

My car does not have a 2nd or 3rd ignition circuit so #2 and #6 are definitely not in play. I don't know for sure yet whether or not my car requires a bypass module, but I have one just in case. If it does, will #7 feed power to the module?

Thanks!

First I will say congrats on your first install.

Hope this helps you.

All of these get connected at the ignition harness
Very straightforward install - I did a 2007 a couple weeks ago
Your vehicle should not have an immobilizer.
Most US made Sonatas don't have them.

H3/1 Pink (+) goes to the blue ignition wire
H3/2 RED / White (+) goes to the pink 12v constant wire
H3/3 Orange (+) goes to the orange accessory wire
H3/4 Violet (+) goes to the green starter wire
H3/5 Red (+) also goes to the pink 12v constant wire
H3/6 Pink/White (+) goes to the green 2nd accessory wire
H3/7 Pink/Black (+) only needed if you want to cut the starter wire for anti-grind function. Otherwise, not used (just cut and tape up)
H3/8 RED / Black (+) also goes to the pink 12v constant wire

Be VERY careful with the 2 green wires at the ignition harness. Test them both since one is the starter wire. The other is an accessory but only powers up with the key in the "on" position. The starter green wire will only power up when you turn the key to the start position. Most other wires are found in the drivers kick panel (locks, arm/disarm, trunk pop).

Man, this is great! Thanks so much.

So does the #2 wire end up providing power for other programmable functions, etc?

As for the green wires, I'll be sure to test them. I did pay for the photos and wiring description over at wirecolor.com, so either way I don't think I'll have any trouble identifying which is which.

Regarding the anti-grind function: Is that necessary if the tach circuit is properly connected? Also, is it preferable to take that signal from a harness inside or from one of the injectors (under the hood?)?

AND (not to be greedy, but one more question), should the control unit be mounted inside the vehicle or in the engine compartment?

Thanks again!

Yes, the RED / White provides power to the pink/white flex connection.

The anti-grind function is an optional connection but it's not related to tach wire connection. It's purpose is to prevent the starter from grinding if you accidentally turn the key to the start position when you take over with the key. But again, it's totally optional.

For tach signal, I always go under the hood to an injector.

According to Directwire -
Tachometer (white) driver kick, black 33 pin plug, pin 28
Notes: Can also go to any fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT black (2.4L) or orange (3.3L).

When you say control unit, do you mean the remote starter brain? If so, always inside the vehicle. It's not made to be in the harsh conditions that can exist under the hood.

Great, thanks! I can see that I may have another question or two along the way. The learning curve is always a little high the first time through a project like this.

For instance, I see that the vehicle has both + and - parking light wires available, but the connection on the remote is just a single "Parking Light Output" with no polarity indicated.

?

Please ask all the questions you feel are going to help you get this done right. We were all in your shoes at one time.

To change the polarity of the parking light output wire, you would open the door on the remote starter brain. You will see a place to insert the mini 10amp fuse provided in either negative or positive polarity. I suggest using the (-) trigger wire. It's very easy to access if you remove the lower cover of the steering wheel cover.

Also, would you recommend taking the seat out? Kind of a pain but it sure would be nice to have more room.

I have never had to remove a seat while doing an install although I've learned how to do some pretty interesting contortionist acts.

If you feel it might make it a little simpler due to the extra room, by all means.   On the 07 Sonata I installed in a few weeks ago, I just pushed the drivers seat as far back as it will go and laid down under the dash to access and test the ignition wires.

All the other wires I needed were available at the drivers kick harness (lock, unlock, arm, disarm, trunk, door trigger). Hood pin and tach wires I ran next to the hood release cable thru the firewall.

OK, that's really helpful. Did you have to drive a hole through the firewall or were you able to use one that was already there?

I'm thinking of mounting the neutral safety switch inside that little drawer to the lower left of the steering column.

For now, I'm off to buy a new a soldering gun. Mine crapped out and I don't think I want to fight with my little 30watt iron in a cool garage.

Do I need to disconnect the battery before unplugging the multi-connects, then reconnect the battery and do my testing on the tabs of those connectors?

I drilled a small hole and placed a rubber grommet and then ran the 2 cables.

You don't have to (but can if you wish) disconnect the battery to make any of the connections on any of the wires. For the ignition wires, as long as you take your time and do one by one, you shouldn't have to worry about any of them touching and causing an issue (especially with the 12v constant wire). Also don't test, probe or unplug any yellow plugs (or wires coming from them) as they are usually part of the airbags.

I find it easier to test and connect everything with the power going thru all the wires. That way as soon I connect them, I can immediately test to ensure it's all working. I didn't have to unplug any connectors besides the ignition harness to test or solder any connections.

As for the neutral safety switch, any place that's convenient for you is fine. I generally drill a small hole close to the driver's kick panel that won't get kicked around. Otherwise, I just zip tie it to a harness under the dash on the left that's low enough for the customer or mechanics to reach.

Man, you've been very generous with your time. I really appreciate it.

I'm about ready to begin at this point. I did end up taking the seat out. That would have driven me crazy. I guess I've got a question or two about testing.

I remember reading somewhere a dire warning about not probing wires because of the risk of damaging the vehicle's computer. However, that's the only way to test without unplugging connectors (which you said you didn't have to do).

Are you just supposed to test for power on the wires of the remote after making your connections, or are you talking about actually testing the operation of the thing using the remote starter's buttons?

Sorry to be such a dope. I guess I don't have anything in any of the materials I've received or downloaded that describes the testing procedure.

I probably should have specified that I meant I had read that probing using a test light was risky.

...and PLEASE tell me there's a fuse I can pull that will disable that d*** warning bell!

In the downloads section of this site is the Viper 5701 Install manual which has a section on testing for the wires you need. Starting on page 13.  Use a Digital Multi Meter,(DMM).  Take it one wire at a time, Solder and tape.

The 5701 is an alarm/remote starter, but the procedure is the same.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=5701

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Thanks, smokeman.

I would say to use a digital multimeter as it's safer especially for first time installations.

I test all the wires at least 2-3 times. The 1st time is before connecting anything to them. I then connect whichever alarm or remote start wire corresponds to that car wire. I will then test it at the plug of the remote start harness to ensure the remote start/alarm brain is receiving the right signal.

After all harnesses are connected and soldered and everything is taped up and seems ready, I test all the pins on the harnesses before I connect the remote starter.

The final test is with everything plugged in to the remote start/alarm. I test all the functions on the Viper remote and all the safety shutdowns and triggers (hood pin, doors, brake shutdown, neutral safety toggle switch, etc). Once they test well, it's time to make it pretty and zip tie and close it all up.

OK, I've got the ignition harness connections all made. I've also run the flat wire to the "control center" up under the rear view mirror. Now I'm ready to move on to the 12 pin main harness but, not surprisingly, I'm confused again.

1) The #2 pin says (+)12VDC Constant Input. Do I need to take power for this from the ignition harness again or from somewhere else?

2) What's the difference between "horn honk output" and "factory horn input"? I have only one "horn" wire identified on the car. Should this be a loop, (e.g., cut the wire on the car and connect the two leads from the remote)?

3) DOOR
The car has both "lock" and "unlock" wires, both (-). However, the remote gives me "(+) Door Trigger Input" and "(-) Door Trigger Input (N/C or N/O)." ???

4) What is "(-) 500mA Ground When Armed Output"? I see that the 18 pin harness gives me Factory Alarm Arm and Factory Alarm Disarm connections, but what is the function of this one (and do I need to connect it somewhere)?

That's enough for now. Sick of me yet?

1) Yes, the 12v constant needs power. You can tie it right in to your main 12v inputs on the heavy gauge harness.

2) I have just connected these together and to the horn. As far as I know it is an input to alert the 2 way remote when the alarm is going off. If I am wrong on this I'm sure someone can chime in.

3) The door trigger input wires have nothing to do with your door locks. These are your triggers for when the doors are open/closed. They will most likely be (-) on that car.

4) The GWA output is for adding external components. This wire gives off a (-) 200ma ground signal whenever the alarm is armed. As for the factory arm/disarm, the factory alarm is most likely controlled only through the factory remote on that car so they will probably not get connected. Check a wire diagram just to be sure about the arm/disarm wires.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for your reply, offroad! A couple of clarifications...

offroadzj wrote:

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3) The door trigger input wires have nothing to do with your door locks. These are your triggers for when the doors are open/closed. They will most likely be (-) on that car.

---

I realize now that I missed the little 3-pin door lock connector when I posted this. Duh. As for the door "triggers," what are they triggering?

offroadzj wrote:

---

4) As for the factory arm/disarm, the factory alarm is most likely controlled only through the factory remote on that car so they will probably not get connected. Check a wire diagram just to be sure about the arm/disarm wires.

---

There is no mention of how to arm or disarm the alarm in the Python owner's guide. You know WAY more about this than I do, but if it can't be done why does the remote harness provide "factory" alarm arm and disarm connections? I've got the alarm schematic up right now. What am I looking for?

Thanks.

Some vehicles will allow arming and disarming of the factory alarm.
Here is the lock, unlock, and alarm wires in your car. You do actually have an option with your factory alarm on that car.
Power Lock      pink/black      -      driver kick, red 20 pin plug, pin 2 or BCM, white 20 pin plug, pin 3
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the front of the center console, below the ashtray.

Power Unlock      yellow/black      -      driver kick, red 20 pin plug, pin 3 or BCM, white 20 pin plug, pin 11
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the front of the center console, below the ashtray.

To unlock the driver door only, use orange (-) at the BCM, gray 24 pin plug, pin 7 or the relay box, 8 pin plug, pin 6. The relay box is behind the fuse box.

Factory Alarm Arm      yellow      -      driver kick, brown 18 pin plug, pin 6 or BCM, white 20 pin plug, pin 1
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the front of the center console, below the ashtray.

Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

Factory Alarm Disarm      orange (double pulse)      -      driver kick, gray 24 pin plug, pin 3 or BCM, white 20 pin plug, pin 2
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the front of the center console, below the ashtray.

Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The door triggers are not required on that car. They are mainly used with aftermarket alarm systems or on manual transmission vehicles (for the Manual Transmission Sequence)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks so much, offroad! I'll dive back in tomorrow.

if I remember correctly the wires can be real tough to get to behind the center console. You are better off taking apart as much as you can to get as much access as you can to the wires. And if you have someone to help you it will make testing the wires a lot easier.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I'm quite sure that I can get at all those wires at the drivers LH kick panel. Thanks.

You can get all the other wires at the driver's kick panel. There is no need to go to the BCM.

The horn input and output wires, you only really need the horn honk output but connecting them together like Kenny suggested doesn't hurt.

I believe all Sonatas have an arm and disarm wire. The one I did had lock, unlock, arm, disarm and power trunk wire at the Drivers Kick Panel.

I couldn't remember if they were in the DKP as well or not. Its been a while... lol

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

OK, I'm ready to get back at it. Just wondering about testing these little (-) 200mA wires. I was trying to test the trunk release wire when I quit last night and wasn't seeing anything on my DMM when I hit the button on the factory keyless. I've got my meter (and leads) in the DCA 200m position.

It's possible, of course, that I don't have the correct wire. My info from wirecolor.com shows that as a white wire in a brown 18 pin connector, pin 16(?), but their own list identifies the trunk release as a blue wire behind the fuse box. Can anyone confirm?

The easiest way I've found for testing for a ground is to connect the red lead to known 12v source and use the black lead to test your wire. It should show a voltage while testing. Just know that depending on the "speed" of your DMM it may not register a full 12volts. Once you are confident you have the wire you can use a fused wire to ground out the wire and check that it locks/unlocks/does whatever it is supposed to do.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

OK, so I should still have my meter set to read voltage?

Thats how I always test (-) signals. Maybe its just me...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks, Kenny. Finally had the "Aha!" moment. I was making it way too complicated. Ground the wire and see if the component operates as it should. Duh...again.

Question now about lights. The Python has circuits for "dome light output" and "light flash isolation wire - pin 87a of onboard relay." On the car's list I've got "dome sensor" and "auto lights shutdown."

Not sure how to proceed. Thanks.

I don't recommend going straight to the ground signal to test. There is always a possibility of grounding the wrong wire and causing a short that could cause a lot of damage. Always test with a DMM first and use the grounding method as a double check of sorts.

Most newer cars automatically activate the domelight when you unlock the door so it is rarely actually required. Also, you do not need the parking light isolation wire either. The auto lights shutdown will use the factory rearm wire (through a diode if it is also being used for the factory alarm). This will send a (-) 200ma signal to the auto light shutdown after the vehicle is shut down by remote (or times out) to shut off the automatic lights and keep them from staying on.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for all of that.

TACH
Shortcircuit, you said that you always take tach signal from an injector. Is that better in some way than using the wire available in the kick panel?

HOOD PIN
I have a hood pin wire available to me at the kick panel. Is there any reason I need to install the pin that was provided with the kit?

Thanks again!

Tach: as long as the unit will program with the tach signal in the kickpanel then you should be fine with it.

Hood Pin: If the vehicle has a factory hood pin you are MUCH better off using it. The cheap hood pins that come with the kits can corrode very easily over time and give false alarms and other problems. Always use the factory hood pin when possible.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Excellent! Thanks.

offroadzj wrote:

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Factory Alarm Disarm      orange (double pulse)      -      driver kick, gray 24 pin 3

Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

---

The wirecolor.com notes for this say "Orange (and Brown. Diode isolate.)" Not sure how to proceed. Also, there are two brown wires in this connector, at pin 1 and the pin opposite (in the 2nd row).

to be honest I haven't done one of those in a while so I really can't say for sure if that is correct or not. All I know is that DEI wiring has rarely ever let me down. But an easy check will be to connect your DMM to each brown wire and see if either one shows ground when turning the key in the door key cylinder. If it does then you may have to connect both wires and diode isolate them.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The bulldogsecurity site agrees with the orange and brown so it is very possible that both are required. It says that they are pins 3 and 1... but still be sure to test the wires before connecting anything. If you need to diode isolate them then pick up 2 diodes (1n4004) and use them to split the unlock wire to both wires with the band in the diode facing towards the r/s unit.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Having trouble finding the hood pin wire at the driver's kick. Wirecolor.com says it should be a green wire in the gray connector. I'm getting no voltage on that wire when pressing the hood pin. The wire running to the actual hood pin is green but much lighter than the green wire at the kick. Maybe that's not significant...

Can anyone compare that info with another source? Thanks.

The hood pin wire may not necessarily show 12v when the hood is closed. But it should show ground when it is opened. Connect the red lead of your DMM to a known 12v source and the black lead to the wire you are testing. Then open the hood and see if you show voltage. If not then you do not have the right wire... keep looking around in the DKP... it may be hidden somewhere in the harness.

I just checked ready remote's wire diagram and it says that the hood pin is green in the pass. kick panel, not the driver's kick panel.
"pass kick, gray 39 pin plug, pin 30 or BCM, white 24 pin plug, pin 24"

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

---

The bulldogsecurity site agrees with the orange and brown so it is very possible that both are required. It says that they are pins 3 and 1... but still be sure to test the wires before connecting anything. If you need to diode isolate them then pick up 2 diodes (1n4004) and use them to split the unlock wire to both wires with the band in the diode facing towards the r/s unit.

---

And how do I know if I need the diodes? If the second/brown wire is in play then I uses the diodes? Then I just solder them inline with the wires?

If both wires are required (aka if the brown wire tests with the key in the cylinder) then diodes are required. Your best bet is to solder the 2 band sides of the diodes together to the unlock wire from the unit, then solder on 2 wire extensions (1 on each diode) and connect those to your wires in the car. Don't connect the diodes directly to the wires in the car... its a lot easier to work with a wire than the diode... and if the diode flexes too much it will break at the solder joint. So by adding the wire extensions you can bundle the diodes together (once they are properly taped / shrink tubed to prevent shorting together) and it will help keep them both from flexing too much.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

OK, I can confirm that the brown wire did also go to ground with the key in the door, so I've installed diodes using your wire lead suggestion and shrink wrapped them.

I'm now testing for the tach wire. I think I have the correct wire (white wire, driver's kick, black 33 pin, pin #28). With the vehicle running, this wire reads 7 volts with very little variation but does not change when revving the engine. In fact, I'd say it's more steady.

The Viper install manual that someone provided a link for earlier in this thread said that voltage should be between 1-6v and that it should change when revved.

I guess I could go for an injector but ...

offroadzj wrote:

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The hood pin wire may not necessarily show 12v when the hood is closed. But it should show ground when it is opened. Connect the red lead of your DMM to a known 12v source and the black lead to the wire you are testing. Then open the hood and see if you show voltage. If not then you do not have the right wire... keep looking around in the DKP... it may be hidden somewhere in the harness.

I just checked ready remote's wire diagram and it says that the hood pin is green in the pass. kick panel, not the driver's kick panel.
"pass kick, gray 39 pin plug, pin 30 or BCM, white 24 pin plug, pin 24"

---

I moved over to the passenger side and have been trying to test this wire according to your instructions above. With the key off I have 12v whether the hood pin is depressed or not. With the key on I have almost 0 whether the pin is depressed or not.

I disconnected the wire from the hood pin itself to test continuity. Even with the gray 39 pin disconnected, the meter will only go down to 0.066. Could I actually have a bad wire?

The other thing I forgot to check about has to do with the neutral safety switch. The switch provided with the rs has a little connector that snaps into the brain. However, another neutral switch wire is provided on the 18 pin harness. I don't see anything that corresponds to that on the Sonata's wire list. Would this only be used if a car has a factory safety switch?

connect that white neutral safety to ground if its automatic.

for manual connect to ebrake.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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connect that white neutral safety to ground if its automatic.

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Thanks. Mine is automatic.

Any particular reason you're identifying that wire as white? It's actually BLACK/ white on this rs.

I would keep looking for your hood pin switch. it sounds like you may not have the correct wire.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I gave up and installed the pin that came with the kit. I might regret it, but I'm SO anxious to get this finished.

Same with the tach wire. I just wasn't sure so I ran it to an injector.

Do you agree about grounding out the neutral safety wire? The Viper instructions said to test the remote starter with the key at run and the vehicle in gear - ebrake on and ready to punch the foot brake. If said if it won't start, the wire does not need to be connected.

I can almost guarantee your Hyundai will not start in gear. If you want to be safe then test it, other wise just ground that wire. Running the aftermarket hood pin won't hurt... just know that you may need to replace it down the road. And the injector is perfectly fine for the tach.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Well, I got it working. Hard to believe, I know. For the benefit of anyone who might read this thread in the future, here are a few more details...

HOOD PIN
This was kind of a pain. I never could get the green wire in the passenger's kick to test out properly so I decided to install the one that came with the kit. This wasn't easy either. There was almost nowhere on the driver's side to install this where you would have access to be able to screw the nut onto the bottom of the pin rod as well as adequate vertical clearance for the pin to operate properly.

I ended up removing the bolt that holds the front brace/bracket to the fender, then tapping that out so I could screw the pin rod into it. Added both a flat and lock washer to secure it. Had to solder the wire onto the tab at the bottom of the pin but it works just fine.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION MODE
This the default setting and it produced a seven parking lights flash error when I first tried to use the remote start. The installation instructions do describe how to change this to automatic. After getting this reset, I got the next error.

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH WIRE
Until I grounded this wire I got an eight flash error. Once that was taken care of, it started right up.

I'd like to thank everyone who chimed in and took pity on me, specifically shortcircuit and especially offroad Kenny. In retrospect, I had no business attempting this. The next one would go much more smoothly, of course, but after climbing in and out of this car and laying in one extruciating position after another for three days, I'm not sure I ever want to do it again.

My sincere thanks!

Yup... welcome to the fun of installing remote starters. My back is probably permanently "scarred" from some of the strangest positions that no human being should ever be able to get into... lol. Glad you were able to get everything working!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Congratulations on getting it all setup and working!! As Kenny said (and many others know) we have to be skilled in the art of contortionism to install in some of these vehicles.

Thanks guys for helping out on this one. My time's been crazy lately with installs.

baytonemus, the hood pin wire I could never find in the kick panel either so i went straight to the factory hood pin and soldered into the green wire there and diode isolated my wire (just food for thought at this point).

Great job though!! Welcome to our world, proud to have you onboard!

The easiest one I ever had (contortionism wise) was I believe an 04 Grand Caravan. It was a handicapped vehicle so there was no driver seat (the wheelchair locked into place for the driver). I was able to lay down perfectly flat (I'm a short guy) right along the driver side. I rested my head on the brake pedal and made 90% of the connections like that. I must say, it was quite comfortable compared to the normal install.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I had the seat out and I also removed the metal bracket that sits behind and at the bottom of that panel under the steering column. If I hadn't done that, I would probably be at least a "person of interest" in one or more local murders.

Out of curiosity, what would this install have cost me if a pro had done it? I think I paid $140 for the rs (on eBay).

Also, how old are you contortionists? Actions have different consequences at 50+ than they do when you're in your 20s and 30s...

What do you recommend doing with the unused wires? Cut 'em? Wrap 'em up? Tape the ends?

As far as wires go, I usually cut them off at about 6" and then tape them off separately, then together. The length leaves me enough to extend if I ever need to in the future.

Cost really depends on the area. Me personally (i do all my installs on the side, not through a shop) would normally charge between $200 and $220 for that car including parts and labor. A shop in the area around me would probably be around $300ish.

I'm 26 and I've been contorting for many years (was a gymnast from age 3 til the end of high school). And thanks to sports, and I'm sure some remote starters, I already have lower back issues... so yea, 50 is really going to suck for me... lol.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I agree with Kenny on the wires. Same process I use. Always leave some wire for future use and tape them individually and then bundle them all together to keep it neat.

I'm 34 and love what I do. I've been installing for a couple of years and also own/run a Home Automation business (never a dull moment). I can't say I don't get those moments where I wonder "what was I thinking", but I wouldn't trade it for anything.

Most installs I charge about $225-250 for a basic 1-way starter, bypass and labor. All work is done on-site at the customer's home or office.

Even though I feel 50's is PLENTY young, much kudos for doing it on your own!! A lot of people I know and help feel that once they reach their 20's or 30's, they have to run from things.

Congrats again!!

What's the markup on these things? I hope you're buying the units for a lot less than I paid if that's all you're charging.

My pricing was for a basic 1 way remote start and keyless entry. For the 2 way system (like what you got) its usually an extra $100.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

for the extra wires, i cut mine. The shortest wire would be 3 inches and from there, i stair cut the other wires in the same harness. Stair case cutting for example, first wire is 3inches, second wire is 3.5inches, etc. Just so they dont short one another out.

i know many installers that De-pin the harness, but this is a PITA when the customer wants aux or other addons down the road. I personally leave them.

I'm 20 and been installing for 8 years now. I am a compustar dealer, but also carry viper as a second line. I prefer the compustar more. If you were to get a Compustar Pro 1way start/keyless its $225 installed parts/labour and extra 60 for bypass. All installs include doorlocks, trunk release(if avail) horn, and defrost. Although i enjoy working on cars, this is my hobby. It helps pay for University tuition and medical school.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

So are VIper and Python the same company - Directed Electronics? Any significant difference between the two?

And where do you guys grab the defrost circuit? I didn't have a wire listed on my info for the Sonata, but I suppose I could still get it from the switch if I was ambitious, right?

indeed. Directed electronics owns many brands out there such as Viper, Python, Clifford, Avital, Readyremote, Autostart etc.

Most units from clifford/python are rebranded Viper units. Directed (DEI) promotes their Viper unit as their top dog, the top of the line unit. Just like vehicles as honda/acura, toyota/lexus, nissan/infinity. Acura,lexus,infinity are to be the upper "better" version. Same unit just different remote designs.

the Defrost is pretty easy to get to.
BLUE (-) 8minute trigger @ Left side of fusebox Connector A pin 16.
The easiest way is to pop the plastic panel between the left side of your dash touching the driver door. Looking at the left of the fuses it will be located in the second connector down from the left side. Very easy to get to.
For your specific application, you will use Defogger/Second status output. In settings turn it on and when its below 0degrees C or 32F defrost auto turns on.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Congrats on your promotion, Ted!      Well deserved.

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Soldering is fun!

Price wise, I had Best Buy in Wausau Wisconsin, install a Viper 5301(same as the Python 580)  into my wife's 2009 Corolla. Remote start, Bypass, Xk06 I think.    Trunk release, rear defroster, relay, and horn honk connection were EXTRA.  Total parts and labor,  $700.00!!!  

I have learned from my own trial and error and A LOT of info from this site.  Tedmond pointed me in the direction of the Fortin bypass units. They haven't disappointed me yet.

I have only been doing this for a couple of years. Entirely as a hobby. I'm 57, so being under someones dash for 9 hours will lead to some asprin and a couple of tall ones at the end of that day.

Double the congrat to you Tedmond!

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tedmond wrote:

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In settings turn it on and when its below 0degrees C or 32F defrost auto turns on.

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On at freezing? Here in northern MN the d**n thing will be on all winter!

Seriously, thanks. I'll hook that up...just as soon as my chiropractor works it out so I can turn my head again.

smokeman1 wrote:

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A plug for this site.  

If you have found the info here helpful, Donate to this site. It is worth it.

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That's an excellent suggestion so I just did!

Thanks all, Now i work my way up to platinum
@ kregs thanks! much appreciated.

To smokeman im glad the fortin bypasses are working great for you. I stock 2 brands of bypasses. Fortin and iDatalink Blades (TB and AL). These 2 combinations cover every vehicle possible. For some vehicles, one platform works better than the other. I just started using some xpresskits DBALL and ive had nothing but bad luck with them. Great transponder bypass, but horrible data/can communication. Often it doesnt do have the features it said it can do.

im trying to set up my paypal to donate to the forum, hopefully in a few days it will be ready to go.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

once again, congrats on the promotion ted. I have to agree with you on the bypasses. I used to stick with all DEI but now that I've started using the idatalink (mainly the blades) and Fortin; I don't think I'll ever go back. The blade bypass in conjunctin with Compustar units is just as easy as it gets.

Can't wait til I get my promotion.. hopefully soon.

On the defroster topic. Where do you get the wiring information from Ted? Everywhere I look it seems like nobody ever lists the defroster wire information and I end up having to go to the switch every time.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

My main wiring guide is WireMagic (Installogy) which comes with my compustar account, and I cross reference with Fortin WireGuide as my secondary. If i cannot find a wire at all, my last resort is Directechs.

all wiring software's are accurate to some extent. I use WireMagic/fortin more often as its a Canadian based company, and the wires match Canadian model vehicles.


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Yea, since leaving Circuit City its been tough as hell finding a reliable wire diagram site that doesn't require a dealer account. But so far the readyremote.com has been pretty much spot on... just never gives anything for defrost.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Just wanted to say congrats to tedmond also!! I can't wait to get there. I did the dance of joy just going from Rookie to Standard! I thoroughly enjoy what I do and love helping here. I honestly can say a lot of my installs would not have gone so smooth if the12volt didn't exist with great folks like you!!

I have been considering Compustar since all I carry now is 99% DEI. (1% for Fortin and Idata bypasses). With recent issues I've had with DEI bypasses, Fortin will definitely fill my orders more. I'll have to check out Installogy but I agree that Readyremote is very good and hasn't steered me wrong. But having that extra bit of info helps.

are you buying the bypass modules online?

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I buy equipment online since I don't know of an authorized dealer that I can deal with directly for DEI (or other products for that matter).

PM me your zip code and ill check what it cost to ship modules.

It might work out cheaper for me to ship you Fortin bypass modules. I get them for a very good price, as the factory is 6hours away from where i live. Its like buying it local.

I can give you a run down of the price of the modules as well, if you have specific ones you need.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert