viper 5901, 2005 montana sv6

Which module do you think will be the best to use for a 05 Pontiac SV6 Montana and Viper 5901 2 Way system?

Looking for the following if possible:

a reliable module,

Able to activate the factory remote start 

a data link connection to my 5901

something pre-flashed with the right program

smart phone smart start compatibility

Hello I posted before I'm going to be installing my first remote start/alarm 5901 on a 2005 SV6 Montana with factory remote start.  I have been busy reading old posts trying to learn as much as I can.  The site is awesome, I wouldn't tackle this install without it.  I plan on using the Idatalink ADS-ALSL GM module with w2w Type 2 install using the ADS RNG GM3 PK3 transponder bypass 

The factory remote start is confusing me tho.  My question is, are there wires I don't install since the van has a factory system installed already? If so, which ones? Or, do I have to do anything to the factory unit to make the aftermarket unit work? 

My other question is, does Idatalink verify addresses of businesses to sign up to their website and flash the module,  Can I just put my home address since I'm just a DIY'er or do I have to go to a local shop and pay them to flash the module?  Do you guys agree on module and ADS RNG and any recommendations where to buy. 

The iDatalink ADS ALSL GM bypass module is a Solo Series module and comes pre-flashed with
firmware from the factory. You shouldn't need to re-flash it before use.  ( You, as a DIYer,
will not be able to get access and flash your own module.)

There appears to be a 2005 Pontiac Montana and a 2005 Pontiac Montana SV6 model, each one
uses a different install Type wiring method.

According to the ADS WEB site, an ADS ALSL GM module with the ADS ALSL GM firmware will work
for your 2005 Pontiac Montana SV6 if you follow the Section A, Type 3 install instructions,
found in install guide #2468.  No ADS RNG GM3 is required.  The W2W method is necessary to
connect to the Viper unit.

Here is a link to the DEI wiring info for your vehicle :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Pontiac

Does anyone know if I can get the Viper harness' I need?

Well, the first step is complete.  I removed the 5901 off my 2003 Cavalier that was 'professionally installed'.  I was not impressed with their install.  The brain was in plain sight just by looking under the steering wheel, held by one zip tie.  Someone can disarm the car within ten seconds just by pulling the harness'.  The ignition harness was crimped and everything else was not soldered just taped.  Made the removal very easy tho.  Took them at least 4 hours, I remember it took them a long time.  They barely had to connect much since my car had no power locks, no power windows and I just wanted the alarm portion of 5901 installed.

Sorry to rant, it just proves my point that nobody takes any pride in their work these days.  Most contractors are the same way too.  Even tho I may not be as quick as the pros, my quality is always high, no matter what I do around the house or on my car.    Removing the system I wrote what they connected to and what not, and it gave me an understanding of how to put it together.  I will keep you guys posted of when I start the install and when I finish it.

Hey guys.  I have bought everything to do the install, and I'm free tonight, so I'm going to start.  Im connecting the 5901 to my 05 montana sv6 using the i datalink ads al sl module.  I'm looking at the install manual for the i datalink ads module, Guide code is 2468.  I'm installing the unit using w2w method.

I just want to make sure of something.  There are only 5 connections from the idata to the vehicle,trunk/door status, ob2 data, ignition, and tach with the w2w method?  Also tach wire from ads and tach wire from 5901 get spliced to vehicle tach wire like a 3 way connection?

There is only one direct connection from the iDatalink bypass module to the van.  That is the
Orange wire going to the OBD2 connector.

The Pink Ignition wire can be connected to the Vipers H3/1 Pink wire, that continues to the van's
Ignition wire in the ignition harness.

The PURPLE / White Tach wire is a bypass module output wire that connects to the Vipers Violet/White
Tach Input wire.  No need to connect any Tach wire directly to the van.

The Yellow/Black and Yellow/Red Status wires are outputs also and connect to the Vipers corresponding
wires.

Remember to set the iDatalink bypass modules Installation Mode to two blinks ( Standard W2W ) and then follow the steps to program to the van.

that's great, thanks a lot Kreg. 

I have another question. When I took apart the 5901 from my cavalier which was pro installed, they had H1/2 12v input, H3/2 flex relay input, H3/6 ignition 1 input, H3/9 accessory/starter relay input all spliced to one lead wire tapping into a 12V constant at the ign harness. 

Is this a proper method of getting a 12V constant? I have an amp kit Im not using which I can use to power everything if that would be better.

Also, I guess I won't need to connect sliding door inputs from the module to the viper since I dont have power sliding doors?

I have everything prepped and ready to go.  I found all of my wires and location for the brain.  I found all of my connnections at the bcm.  I have another question tho.  I found my starter wire at the bcm, but I don't see the end that goes to the igniton.  I'm not sure which side is the key side and which side is the car side.

does it go  car> bcm > key    or does it go bcm> car> ignition harness.  Or, should I just use the starter wire at the ignition harness.  Worse case, if I get it wrong, can I reverse the wires without harming the vehicle? The few cars I worked on electrically had thick guage wiring but this van has all thing guage.

I dont see any heavy gauge wires on this vehicle.  The ignition harness is small guage wiring also, like 22 guage small.  I can show pics, should I not connect to these wires.  On the online wiring guides, it says to use the bcm wires or ignition wires, they are both the same gauge.

I have ran into a problem.  I tested my hood wire and it was normally open until the hood came up and I got 12 volts.  I connected everything up roughly and turned the units on.  I'm getting a constant 12 Volts at the hood pin wire, so the viper thinks my hood is always open.  Dont know why.  I programed the idata to two flashed and then when I went to confirm the w2w, I got a single red flash.  

What works on the van so far are the power locks, parking lights that is all.  The triggers are not working, and the door status' are not working.  They are not showing on the remote when something is open.  Any words of advice?

Connections

I datalink      to Viper

door status output    Door trgger input

trunk status output   Trunk pin trigger input

ignition           ignition 1

Ground out when running    200mA door status output

Ground          Ground

12 V   12V

Lock arm input 500mA lock output

Unlock disarm input  500mA unlock output

tach output     Tach input

Orange to Car's data

iDatalink bypass Ground When Running Blue/White wire goes to Viper Blue (-) 200mA Status Output.

Did you connect the Viper H3/1 Pink ( also has iDatalink's Pink Ign wire attached ) to the van's Pink Ignition wire?

Does not sound like the bypass programmed properly.  Try a Factory Reset, Install Mode set & lock, then program

These are my connections to the van

12v Constant

Brown siren output

Ground

(-) parking light output

(-) 200mA horn honk output

Ignition 1 input/output

flex relay input

violet and green starter outs

ignition 1 input

accessory starter relay input

(-) hood pin

brake shutdown input

neutral safety input to ground

Ya I connected the blue and the pink wires just like that.  I will try the factory reset.  Any idea about my hood pin problem or does this not usually happen, lol. 

Strange about the Hood Pin.  Did you connect to this wire?

Hood Pin     Pink/Black(-)        @ BCM, Black 52 pin plug (C1), pin 26

To test, connect the DMM Red lead to +12V constant and the Black lead to the Pinl/Black wire.  With the hood closed you should see 0V.  With the hood open, it should be +12V.  You can always run the Vipers Hood Pin wire to your own hood pin ( supplied with R/S system ).   I can send you some if you don't have one. ( I don't use them, I prefer to install a mercury tilt switch. )

I can't think straight anymore.  I was getting more and more wizzed everytime I got that stupid hood open error message.   I connected the hood pin wire to C1 26 pink/black.  I will try connecting to the ecu tomorrow offroadz.  Thanks for the offer Kreg, I will just pick one up from the parts store or something tomorrow and hopefully be done with this.

I was able to reprogram the module after a few tries and all the door triggers are working and coming up on the two way remote.  Hopefully this bad boy cranks right up after the hood pin issue is resolved.  Thanks again for everyones help. 

Great Success (borat voice),

This morning I had some time to look at the van again.  I learned to read the instructions and program most of my problems away. Newbe mistakes but I got it figured out.  The hood pin I still have to look into but the remote starter is working beautifully.  All my connections were proper, it wasn't starting becuase it was in manual mode.  I changed it to auto, learned the tach, and that was that.  I started the van in my bedroom 13 stories up from the underground garage.  Pretty sweet.  Thank you to Kreg, Offroadz, Tedmond plus the website for all your guys help, especially Kreg, thanks bud.  Iearned a lot with the install and it feels damn good to get it done.

The bad news to the story is as I was taking my gf to dinner, the van's cv joint took a crap for no good reason.  Got the van on the road last week, only had 60k miles on it. That's a problem my mechanic can worry about, could use the break. lol

Two thumbs up!     Outstanding job, and a transplant to boot.  The next one will be even easier...