2000 acura tl, avistart 6000

Hey guys great forum, have been searching and reading old threads before doing the installation on my 2000 Acura TL. Have a few things that could use a little clarification. I'm planning on installing the Avitstart 6000 remote start / alarm. The unit is a little older but have a few of them lying around so I figure let me put it in. Link is below to the installation manual for convenience.

1.) According to the instructions on page 8 & 9, relays are not required for parking lights and interior dome light? Wiring diagram for my car shows the parking lights are positive and dome light is negative triggered.

2.) Instructions say to hook up a reverse light switch but this is not listed on the wiring chart for my car. Anyone know off-hand what is the wire to check?

3.) A transponder immobilizer bypass is required. Since I only have one key for the car I would like to get one that does not require a key to be stored in the module. What are good options for this car? I've noticed the DEI 556U and PKH2 mentioned several times but noticed that DEI module does not always work with the first key. Is the PKH2 better and/or are there better options?

Thank you in advance :)

https://rovertech.clanteam.com/depo/avital/avistart6000_install.pdf

no relay needed for parking lights, dome light supervision also not needed. When you unlock it turns on.

the reverse lights is probably used as an alternative to shut down the remote starter. connect the YELLOW brake shutdown and dont use yellow/black. its not necessary.

another great bypass is the fortin honda-sl3 or fortin key override all. The PKALL will also work.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond, thanks for the quick reply. Is the SL3 model the one that can only be programmed once? If so how reliable is that?

I went to the car and tested most of the wires. Having trouble findings the lock wires on the passenger side fuse box. What colors should I be looking for at the pass side? GREEN/ Red is one of them but can't find a pulse while hitting the lock switch. Don't want to go to the door if I don't have to.

the fortin honda sl3 can be programmed twice. If you try to program and it fails, that does not count as one. i have been using fortin bypasses for many years, and i have a honda sl3 that is 4 years old. Still works without any problems.

not sure where you got the colours from but they aren't correct.
Lock (-) BLACK/ Blue @ passenger fuse box gray 22 pin plug
Unlock (-) Orange @ passenger fuse box gray 22 pin plug
Factory Disarm (-) Blue @ under passenger seat at factory alarm module

to test these wires, you need to put a key into the passenger door, turn the key left and right to test for your wires. This is easier than going into the door. I had an 02 Acura CL so i know.



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Tedmond, nice, are you on Acurazine? Found the Orange at the passenger fuse box and was trying with the key in the lock cylinder but didn't notice any change in voltage in my meter. I can't find the BLACK/ blue wire at all.

the wire should be there. look carefully as the wires are stacked, and hard to see.

use your meter and set it for dc volts. red to constant 12v, black to your wire youre testing. turn the key and the meter will register 12-14v.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

if i remember correctly its almost to the back of the fusebox and a real pain in the rear end to get to. And be careful b/c it is easy to break the wire trying to strip it back.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I'm going to do the install this weekend if the SL3 comes by Saturday. A few more questions.

https://rovertech.clanteam.com/depo/avital/avistart6000_install.pdf

1.) In the above installation guide page 4 shows only the starter wire needs to be cut for the starter disable purposes and the Gray (Heater/AC) wire is just tapped in to ACC circuit. However page 11 says to cut the this ACC wire in half. So which is it cut or no cut?

2.) Factory disarm Blue wire @under passenger seat. How exactly do I get to it does the seat need to be removed?

3.) I plan on using the +12V constant fused from the ignition switch for the alarm and tapping +12V from the battery for the satellite relay module for remote start. Do I need to connect using two 20AMP fuses as shown on page 4? Or can I just use one wire from the battery fused with a 30AMP?

Thanks!

Cut the start wire only for starter kill.
Slide the seat forward and you will have enough room to remove the harness.
All constant 12v sources can be tapped at ignition. That wire will handle up to 50amps no problem

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Is this the blue wire for the factory disarm under the passenger seat? Hard to tell from the pic but the wire is solid blue with no lines.

The only way to know for sure is to test it with a DMM.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The reverse light doesn't replace the brake light, it's simply functions as a NSS, sits on - enabling the R/.S if moved on an auto from park you go into reverse and this obviously disables the R/.S.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

if it acts as a nss wire, just ground it.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thank you all for your help. I was able to do the installation this weekend and test it out a little last night. A few things:

1.) For some reason when the Avital is armed it instantly is triggered. I will have to double check the hood & trunk tonight. I used a pin for the hood and the Orange wire for the trunk so I'm thinking the hood pin is more likley the issue as I tested the Orange wire to show 12V while trunk is open? Although the remote start did work so I'm thinking maybe not the hood pin?

2.) I think I used the wrong wire for the tach as I couldn't get it to learn the tach. I used one of the two wires at the top of the drivers side strut tower in a orange connector. I think the blue wire is not in the Orange connector but by itself. I tested the wire in the orange connector as showing 5V when the car was idling and 0 when off. However I remember my meter being on DC so this can't be right.

The blue wire will be in a harness all by itself. It will either by by the strut tower or near the battery. What did you connect the trunk trigger to? It sounds like you have a (+) trunk trigger which will not work with the unit as the unit uses a (-) input. You will either have to use a relay or if the unit has a separate (+) door trigger input you can connect directly to that as well.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I do believe the trunk trigger was pos, at least on the Euro models back then on the orange, why not just connect the orange to the Avital VIOLET POS INPUT door trigger.
Though if you're a perfectionist do the following:-
Standard or PCB mini relay.
Trunk trigger to 86,
ground to 85 and 87
Blue from Avital trunk trigger.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I do have a relay that I planned on wiring to pop the trunk as is positive triggered and the alarm outputs (-). Didn't realize the trunk pin wire on the alarm is also (-) so with the trunk closed I guess it's thinking it is open. I can wire up the relay to invert the polarity. Didn't get a chance to work on it last night.

I think I know which tach wire is the right one; it is by itself with a little rubber piece at the top of it.

I metered the blue wire under the seat for factory disarm but it was reading 0V and when I pressed the unlock key on the remote all it would change to is .02V. See above for the pic.

It doesn't always work by pressing the button on the remote. Its sometimes too quick of a signal to register on the DMM. Your best bet is to test it by turning the key in the door cylinder. It should show ground when turning the key.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Okay here's an update.

1.) Alarm being triggered; turns out there is another wire to select door trigger polarity. I grounded it for negative trigger and the issue is gone.

2.) Even though the alarm is looking for (-) input trunk pin wire it's still working. Meaning, the Orange wire is showing +12V when the trunk is open and hooked up to the trunk pin wire on the alarm. The alarm is triggered when the trunk is open. Not sure why if it is a negative input. Since it is working now I left it as is.

3.) Wired the relay for trunk trigger, and the trunk opens. Although it only works after disarming/unlocking the doors.

So, I'm ready to install the SL3 since the remote start works with the key in ignition. Looking at the instructions my install is the type 2. Seems straight forward but both the Orange and PURPLE / White wires need to be connected to the data wire to the ECM side? Only the PURPLE / White is showing the "Car" symbol but the connection diagram is showing both.

Thanks!!

you will join them from what i remember.

set your unit to unlock then trunk release. the only other method is to get the trunk release motor wire, driver side kick panel. large gauge.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Finished last night. The fortin only took around 20 minutes to wire up and about 10 seconds to program.

Thanks again for all the help :)

Ted, thanks for the recommendation on the SL3, it works great.

glad it worked out great.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert