2011 tacoma, viper 4103, pkall

Hey everyone, great forum here. I used to install heavily but  that hasn't been for about 20 years. Being as anal as I am to be a perfectionist, I will do this install myself. I have all colors for the truck, remote start, and pkall and also plan to install by wire to wire instead of data to data. Any pointers that anyone has on this as I am going to do this soon. Thanks in advance, Jimmy

Only a few post down is a tutorial with pictures. It was put together by one of our fellow members offroadzj. The 2011 Tacoma is the same as the 2010. Here is the link:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130004

Also, you will need to get a relay to power up the second starter wire. Do not just jump starter 1 to starter2, this will cause problems with the truck blowing fuses. Use the extra relay you will buy with the negative start output of the 4103.
85 - Negative start wire from 4103(I believe its a thin purple wire)
86 - Fused constant 12v
87 - Fused Constant 12v
30 - Output to 2nd starter wire on car

Thank you about clearing that up about the relay on the 2nd starter. I may have overlooked that. We will see how it goes, thanks again!

Make sure to set the unit to double pulse unlock and to factory disarm with unlock. Then you can connect your locks and factory alarm wires together to the factory arm/disarm wires. The unit will unlock the driver door before remote starting (factory disarm unlocks driver side door) but if it bothers you, you can set the unit for remote start safe start enabled. This will automatically send a lock/arm signal after remote starting.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Make sure to set the unit to double pulse unlock and to factory disarm with unlock. Then you can connect your locks and factory alarm wires together to the factory arm/disarm wires. The unit will unlock the driver door before remote starting (factory disarm unlocks driver side door) but if it bothers you, you can set the unit for remote start safe start enabled. This will automatically send a lock/arm signal after remote starting.

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Great to know offroadzj! Thanks for the reply.

kenny, how come you didnt just connect the staus wire to the Keysense?

that will also disarm the truck without unlocking the doors.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Because the key-override-all required keysense. And I was unsure if it was JUST for the programming or if it was used as a shut-down of the bypass to eliminate a dual key signal scenario. If it was the latter, then the status output would disable the key-override-all when it was needed most... haha.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i thought the same thing, however after thinking about the programming procedure, all that was needed is the key to be inserted into the ignition cylinder. I tried programming without keysense hooked up and it wouldnt program. That just ruled out that it was a mandatory connection during programming of the bypass. i bypass all toyota vehicles by powering up keysense.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

This forum is awesome! Great replies and lots of good info! Thanks everyone

So once the bypass is programmed the keysense can essentially be disconnected? If that's the case then I'll start using the keysense to disarm from now on. And to program the bypass I'll probably just throw a manual ground signal to that wire while the key is inserted.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i just connect it anyways, never had an issue with leaving it. you can ground it but its all about timing. The keysense wire acts as a "clock" and expects to see a key for x amount of time.

hard to explain, but just connect status and keysense from the bypass. No need for diode isolation, just diode on the sauis to keysense/bypass GWR

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

ok... I'll do that from now on. I prefer to use the keysense on toyota's so you don't have to worry about it unlocking, but was real hesitant because of the bypass requiring it. Glad to know that I'm still good to use it!
Thanks

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Is it then possible to just connect the lock/unlock feature to avoid the drivers door unlocking when the remote start activates? Its not that much of a big deal to me as I should be able to lock the drivers door with the viper keyfob once the remote start has started. Is this right? I know the factory keyfobs are inoperable after the vehicle is running. Thanks again

Yes. You can connect the lock wires to the factory arm/disarm wires (so you don't lose the alarm feature of the vehicle) and then just connect the status output to the keysense. The only thing I am not sure of is whether the factory alarm will re-arm itself after the keysense signal is dropped (remote start shutdown)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks agan Kenny! I really appreciate the info!

I have one more question, in the PKALL installation instructions there is a blue/white wire that is to be connected to a "while running" status. I can't figure out what to connect this to and I am doing all my homework before I start this install this Wednesday.

toojayz wrote:

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I have one more question, in the PKALL installation instructions there is a blue/white wire that is to be connected to a "while running" status. I can't figure out what to connect this to and I am doing all my homework before I start this install this Wednesday.

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And when I said I didn't know what to connect I meant is this wire to be connected to a vehicle wire or a certain wire on the remote starter? I am using a Viper 4103 rs. Thanks again

It will connect to the blue (-)200ma status output from the remote starter.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks again Kenny, you're the man!

Okay, in the middle of the install now and may be confused about two things. If I connect the factory lock/unlock wires and connect the factory arm/disarm wires, what to I connect the key sense wire to?
Also, there is a ground when running wire coming from the Viper, is that wire needed for the unit to function and if so, what do I connect it to? Sorry to be a pest but I rather ask than make a costly mistake. Thanks again, Jim

Just connect the Viper lock/unlock wires to your factory arm/disarm wires and change the unlock programming to "double pulse".

The Ground when running wire will need to go to 2 different places and must be diode isolated (band towards viper). First it will go to the ground when running input (may also be called status input) of the PKALL. Second it will connect to the keysense wire. This 2nd connection will disarm your factory alarm during remote start. Alternatively, if you will not be connecting the rear defrost output then you can connect your ground when running to the bypass and the defrost / 2nd status output to the keysense. Just make sure that the 2nd status out/defogger output is programmed to "2nd Status"

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Just connect the Viper lock/unlock wires to your factory arm/disarm wires and change the unlock programming to "double pulse".

The Ground when running wire will need to go to 2 different places and must be diode isolated (band towards viper). First it will go to the ground when running input (may also be called status input) of the PKALL. Second it will connect to the keysense wire. This 2nd connection will disarm your factory alarm during remote start. Alternatively, if you will not be connecting the rear defrost output then you can connect your ground when running to the bypass and the defrost / 2nd status output to the keysense. Just make sure that the 2nd status out/defogger output is programmed to "2nd Status"

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Okay, that makes more sense now but just to be perfectly clear the ground while running wire will still need to be diode isolated regardless correct? Thanks again so much!

Some people do, but I never have. Its up to you. But if you use just the status out (ground when running) for both then yes it has to be diode isolated.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Some people do, but I never have. Its up to you. But if you use just the status out (ground when running) for both then yes it has to be diode isolated.

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Thanks again, I REALLY appreciate all the help!

if people are confused; what kenny is saying if the status is used as GWR for 2 or more modules, which utilize the same function, then there is no need to diode isolate them, since there is only one purpose.

if you connect a bypass module and a keysense circuit, diode isolation is required. This is because they are 2 different circuits, with 2 different features.

maybe this clears it up for some.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Yea, thats a better way of saying it. I was trying to figure out the best way of stating it but couldn't think of the easiest way... haha.
Thanks Ted!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I hope I didn't bite off more than I can chew with this project. I have made 90% of my connections all soldered but now I'm having a brain freeze as to what the tx/rcv data wires go at the ignition switch. Oh boy, this is not like I remember it seemed a lot easier 20 years ago! lol

Depending on if you have a "G" key affects how the PK-ALL is installed. Look at the shaft of the key directly next to the plastic head and you will see either a "G" (G key) or a dot (non G key). The install guide for the PK-ALL should list your TX/RX wires by pin number. They are usually tough to test so in many cases you have to just pay close attention that you get the correct wires.
PK-ALL Install Guide (G Key)
PK-ALL Install Guide (Non G Key)

Look in the pictorial discussions area and you'll see a 2010 Tacoma I did not that long ago. I believe I have the RX/TX wires pointed out fairly clearly. If you have the "G" key (which you probably do) the install is different than mine and you will have to follow the above install guide.
2010 Tacoma Pictorial

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks again to all, SUCCESS!

Out of curiosity, did you have the G key or the standard key?

And if you were happy with your experience on this site, please donate to the site here to help keep everything up and running!


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Out of curiosity, did you have the G key or the standard key?

And if you were happy with your experience on this site, please donate to the site here to help keep everything up and running!

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G key I believe the 80 bit

Ok. I figured as much b/c I'm pretty sure all of the 2011's and some 2010's had the G key. Glad you were able to get everything working.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205