2000 4runner, python remote start

New here so I hope I'm posting in the right section. I'm in the process of installing a Python remote start in my 4runner and am looking for some help.   I've got most of the stuff hooked up and here's where I'm at. The remote start will activate and crank the truck but it won't start. Reason being the factory alarm system. I can't seem to get the stock alarm to disarm. If I stick the key in the ignition and leave it off it will remote start just fine.

I've tried hooked the "status" wire to the yellow/red wire at the ignition and it doesn't change anything. Any help is appreciated!

What type of immobilizer bypass are you using?

If it works with the key in the ignition for remote start, it means your key has a chip in it and needs a bypass to allow the remote starter to work.

I don't have any sort of bypass for it. I was hoping it wasn't needed however I'm assuming it does now.

factory disarm, connect status wire to the keysense wire at the ignition

try remote starting by placing the key head at the ignition itself. Dont insert just hold it there. If it starts you need a bypass module.

from what im aware of, that vehicle does have an immobilizer. I would use the forin key-override-all

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Also, have you connected the key sense wire, yellow/red at ignition switch? Connect to status output wire.
Just eliminating things here.
P.S. As correctly stated above, leave your key in the ignition and try a remote start. If it works you need a by-pass for the factory immobiliser.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm also pretty sure you need a bypass on that. The key-override-all is a very painless bypass to use and works very well without the need of having another key made.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

So it does seem as though I'll need a bypass of some sort. If I just barely insert the key into the ign the red security light will quit flashing, however if I insert another toyota key that I have I get the ding ding ding that a key is in there but the security light keeps flashing. As soon as I get the security light to stop flashing it remote starts just fine.

I suppose I'll order a bypass to solve that, how I just need to figure out these dang door lock wires, parking lights, and horn.

So I went ahead and ordered up the bypass unit, should be here in 2 days so that part will have to wait. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

Does anyone have any more insight as to the door lock wires for the 4runner?   I've been using 2 different wiring lists and they have conflicting information on that part. I'd love to be able to retain the priority unlock for the drivers door if possible but it's not mandatory.

Lock - BROWN / White (-)
Unlock - Blue/Red and Blue/Black (-) Diode isolate (band towards unit)
They are located in the driver kick in a white plug. Above a blue plug.

Driver unlock only Pink/Green (-) same connector as lock/unlock

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I have different info on the lock and unlock colours, it's 06:50am and I've a day from hell in front of me, will explain and pop up a picture for priority unlock, in the meantime, poster you will need a standard relay, 2 extra diodes (1N4004)and a DMM to probe the lock wires.
Lock = BROWN / white.
Unlock = GREEN/ YELLOW and blue / YELLOW.
Drivers unlock motor wire = pink/green, all in DKP.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So I've been tinkering with it some more today. I tapped the BROWN / white for the lock which seems to work fine. Then I tapped the red for unlock which seems to work as well so I guess I'm good there unless there's a reason that I should be tapping the other wires for unlock like you guys were saying? With the current configuration I don't get the option of a priority unlock, it just does all the doors.

Dead simple, take your unlock to the pink that Ted mentioned and take your second unlock or an aux output, trunk release? to where you originally had the lock wire.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks, I'll try that.   Although I must admit that after further testing I may not have the unlock all figured out after all. With the drivers door open it will lock and unlock just fine. However if I close the door and lock it then it will not unlock it afterwards. Also when it's like that the actual door switch won't unlock it either. I have to use the stock remote to unlock the doors before everything starts to function again. I'm assuming there's some sort of feature in the stock setup that disables the inside door locks when everything is armed which is causing this.

Did you "assume" and join or have you tested the supposed lock colours?
You gave different colours from both Tedmund and myself.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Check for a factory disarm wire on the vehicle or try setting it for double pulse unlock. I had some newer toyota's that did exactly that and it turned out it needed a double pulse.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

you need to diode isolate those 2 unlock wires. one is the unlock signal, the other is the driver door cylinder sense wire.

If you dont diode isolate it will not unlock (such as your current problem)

the driver unlock no need to 5wire relay as its negative. just unlock to this wire, and set up second unlock with diodes to the unlock wire.

btw test with a DMM

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks guys!

No I didn't assume, the red wire I tapped for unlock was listed on one of the wiring diagrams I printed off, actually it was the diagram from here.    Anyways it did work just not with the door closed so I'll go back and change that by tapping the two wires you guys listed with the diodes. I did manage to get the parking lights hooked up and the dome light as well which just leaves the unlock (will fix tomorrow), horn, and then figuring out how to hook up the rear defrost and control the back window.

Thanks again for all the help though guys!!

Don't just go by diagrams either. That is what is meant by assuming. Always test the wires with a DMM before making any connections.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I hear ya on that one.   I thought I was good because with the driver door open it does work just fine, it's just when you close it that it doesn't function as it should.

So thought I would update this as I've gotten a bit more done. I ended up doing the unlock totally different what what anyone else mentioned.

I tapped the RED / blue wire that's in the blue connector at the drivers door and grounded it. That wire is the door cylinder sense wire, so now it thinks the drivers cylinder is unlocked all the time.

Then I tapped the blue/black wire in the white plug at the drivers door to the remote start unlock wire.   Now it works just like factory, if you press the unlock once it unlocks just the drivers door, press it again within a few seconds and then it will unlock the rest of the doors. No special relays or diodes required.

I also got the key-override-all installed and the remote start works great now. Only thing left to do is figure out how to control the rear window like the factory remote did.

Big thanks to all the guys who threw out the input as it all helped me figure it out!!!

Actually after going back and reading I suppose I did it basically the way tedmon was saying to do the unlock, just didn't use the diode in there. Also tedmon had the RED / blue wire listed as blue/red which was throwing me off a little.