Printer Friendly Forum Posts - honda civic del sol, dx370 siren failure

So I installed my alarm and had a question with the siren.

I had the 'connect to siren' wire connected to an oogha horn. Just to see if it worked (yeah I got excited and didnt wait for the siren). Anyways, I went to hit 'lock' on the remote to arm the system and the horn gave a little noise. But after that....nothing. I don't know if by using the oogha I fried the siren part of the brain or what. The parking lights flash but the horn (and siren) don't work anymore Do i need a relay/should I have installed a relay?

The horn isnt bad because I tested it on a 12v circuit and it still works.

thanks for helping the new guy lol

P.S. I've disconnected the alarm, made sure it wasn't in valet mode, etc. It doesn't work when using the panic feature either.

Connect a DMM to the siren output wire and see if you are getting 12v when it should be going off. You may need to actually set the alarm off to get a good test.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The alarm is either putting out 3 amps or 100 milliamps depending on the output you used.
That horn draws 10-15 amps.
Leading on from the previous post, I'm guessing you've fried the siren output.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

i say dead output

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

That's OK then X 3, Kenny was being polite.
Someone should explain pre-testing and using a relay to our poster.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes, I 100% agree that its probably a dead output. Back in the day I had one of those ooga horns in my truck and I remember it drew a lot of power to run it. So more than likely it killed the output. However, I am still being optimistic in that maybe, by some slim chance, it is still good.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

You ever seen a chip blow? It's FAST!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah this is what I get for not going with my gut feeling haha. I have an optional output for a horn honk. Better make sure I connect it to my horn rest eh? Haha

You can use that to trigger the ooga but ONLY through a relay. It may sound a little odd since it will only send a pulse down that wire, but it will at least give some sort of audible warning.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok so I didn't want to start a new thread......my otional horn honk feature has a separate wire that gives a (-) pulse. It says to connect it to the wire that goes to the horn relay and then to the horn. My question is what wire Should I tap it into?

Here is my wiring diagram: https://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/hondatech/2009-09-08_070945_93_Del_Sol_horn_ETM.pdf

I don't have cruise control but its basically the same thing. Remember the wire from the alarm gives a negative pulse.

Thanks so much everyone.

Connect directly to grey-blue green, steering column loom.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Awesome, thanks so much.

Might as well ask my other questions so I don't fry anything.

1) Also, it says it has an output for a 'windows roll up (-)' feature. According to your wiring info, that would be the Blue/red (LF) and blue / YELLOW (RF). How could I make it so it just runs off of that one output?

There's also the rear window but the wire isn't listed. Off to the electrical book...

2) There is also another output that could be connected to a realy (which was wired and included with the alarm). then the 'starter solenoid wire' should be cut and the other two wires should connect to those two points to fill that gap. What's the point of this? and which wire should I cut? is the starter solenoid wire just the starter wire (BLACK / YELLOW)? This may be a simple question...sorry if it is.

3) You guys are so helpful. Thank you so much :)

Q 1: You need a window closer or 2 including the rears to either close the windows after arming the alarm or close and vent, e.g. DEI 529t x 2 for closing, or 530t x 2 for close and vent.
These work off an GWA output but since you haven't mentioned the alarm I can't tell you what wire that is.

Q2: The relay is a starter cut, you cut the BLACK/ white* and connect the switch side to 87a, starter motor to 30, ignition input to 86 and again the GWA wire goes to 85.

*You must test everything, no point going "off to the electrical book" if you don't test to verify.

To be brutally frank, I'm wondering whether or not you should pay for professional help on what is or should be a really simple install.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm sorry is DX370 the alarm? Never heard of it and what year is the Honda? 93?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Its a 1994 honda del sol and the alarm is a cheapo $30 one off amazon. I'm testing everything now and have been after that horn blowout. After doing that with the horn I wanted to make sure I wouldn't do it with anything else.

I admit this is my first time really dealing with the electrical wires that aren't related to the stereo. Its my first car and I'm learning about it as a go. I've already learned how to drop a transmission, complete brake change, stereo rewire etc. Therefore I don't want a shop to do this because like you said, it "is or should be a simple install".

As far as the components for the window roll up, I have 2 front windows and only one rear (its a del sol). So I assume I still need 2 of those guys?

Thanks,
Christian

Yes and may I point out that alarm/RS work has absolutely NOTHING to do with any of the above mentioned activities?
Also the UK version needed an actuator in the driver's door, not sure if the US version needed it.
You will need a separate closer for the rear window.
Cynical point of view based on many years of experience, if it's a $30 alarm it won't work!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I know none of the activities are related to wiring for an alarm. I'm saying that I want to know my car inside and out so naturally I want to do it myself so I can learn that aspect of my car.

To be honest, I'm 18 and most people my age don't give a crap about cars or the mechanics behind it. I do. They'd rather pay someone to do it for them. and that's great if the alarm doesn't work. I just wanted it for the lock and unlock for the doors and if I fried something (like a horn output) I could just replace it and not feel bad haha.

Thanks for your help so far though.

The biggest problem with cheap alarms is usually false alarms. Basically the thing will constantly go off unexpectedly and really wiz off your neighbors. Yes you will need 2 window roll up modules... and be fore-warned, the window modules are not a simple install and one bad connection can fry your power window switch or possibly even more.

With that said, if you want to go forward on your own then good for you... but make sure you are extremely careful and test everything twice. We can help you where you need it.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thank you. At this point I don't feel too comfortable with the windows so I'm going to just wait on those. Its my car that I fully bought, pay insurance on and everything so I know if I fry something then, hey, its my fault and I learn from it haha.

As far as everything else, the alarm , parking lights, horn, starter cutoff all work. I'm just about to start wiring the relays for the doors.

I'll keep you posted.

what do you need relays for with the doors? Are you talking about the door locks? If so does your car have power locks with a switch?

If you do have an actual switch then you do not need relays for the locks. They should just be negative pulse.
Power Lock GREEN / WHITE - drivers kick panel
Notes: Door lock module in door. Remove silver cruise module in drivers kick panel and pull door harness out to access 20 pin plug. Lock wires on door side of plug.
Power Unlock GREEN/ red - drivers kick panel
Notes: Door lock module in door. Remove silver cruise module in drivers kick panel and pull door harness out to access 20 pin plug. Lock wires on door side of plug.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ta Kenny, I ain't done one of these in about 15 years and the UK model needed an actuator.
Also a right pain was getting through with the trunk trigger wiring, the UK version had a beast of a roof which lowered electrically into the car, oh what fun to get around the mechanism.
We are talking about the CRX coupé rather than Civic sedan aren't we?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

P.S. Why relays?
N.B. The motor wires are the easiest part, just find the motor wires in each door.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

They are both two-wire aftermarket actuators. Everything I've read says it needs to be wired into a relay such as: https://teamsolcal.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5026

The picture is wired wrong but the diagram is correct.

It is the crx coupe but the american version doesn't have the transtop (thank the lord).

You called it right ref. the power top! More trouble than it was worth.
I was under the impression that vehicle had central locking, the UK version only had one actuator with just a switch in the driver's door, have you verified this?
If you are adding actuators and I remember that job as being a right bloody pain, does your alarm have 2 0r 6 lock wires. If 6 it means you have built in relays and can wire direct to the motors.
If not get a complete kit with motors, wiring,fixings and most important, dedicated timer relay from DEI, Spal, MES etc. Best quality and it means you can override the remote with the key when the remote fails (remember it's a $30 alarm!)
Then if only two wires on the alarm you still control the locks and it's much easier than wiring up 2 separate relays.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I just looked at those pictures in your link, the motor shown will never work, you need your pull rod to be nearly parallel with the factory linkage.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just installed the driver side actuator and had it wired like the I posted (with the two relays). And it works! Now to wire the passenger side door...And it was a two wire actuator and I already had the relays but the timer relay will be something I look into.

As far as the actuator, that wasn't my thread/car haha. Mine is perfectly parallel with the rod.

Glad about the linkage angle, mechanically, it's extremely important, the big trick of course is to get a smooth pull.
The timer relay is more relevant if you use a 5 wire actuator on the driver's side then you have key operated locks as a back up, controlled by the dedicated timer relay. Actually simpler than your set-up!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well, that's what I get for not knowing exactly what I'm doing haha. Good to know for the future though. Also, my alarm came with a 2 stage shock sensor (4 wires). Could I swap it out for a motion sensor like a dei 508d (also 4 wires). Or will these two be incompatible.

Let me know if there's not enough information provided.

It should plug in but again, VERIFY that the wires are equivalent to each other.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I can't verify if it isn't in front of me but looking at the schematics, it should. They are both 2 stage sensors and each have a ground and power wire. I'll triple check in the morning.

Just verify on both which of the four wires are which.
Red 12v+
Black 0v-
Warn-away, and
Full trigger.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.