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Easycar E7b, 2010 Kia Forte

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Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
Printed Date: December 09, 2022 at 8:35 PM

Topic: Easycar E7b, 2010 Kia Forte

Posted By: genexis
Subject: Easycar E7b, 2010 Kia Forte
Date Posted: January 21, 2012 at 6:48 AM

Hi all,

I'm really in need of some help. I purchased a Easycar alarm E7B with pushstart and remote start from a dealer and i was intending to install it on my KIA Cerato Forte 1.6L 2010 EX Model. This will not be the first time I install a alarm system in this car, previously i have successfully installed a Viper 5701 (of course with the advice given by this form).

The car manual can be done via this link: HERE

Ok here is the problem:

After connecting up, i can't seem to PUSH start or REMOTE start. According to the manual, there is a signal code: 6 flashes, which means that the HOOD is open. However, I can't find any HOOD Sensing wire in the manual nor on the brain unit itself. I really need help desperately, can't seem to find any other information from anywhere else.

Anybody familiar with this? THe brain unit model is M7700B, which i believe it is used for easycar alarm E772AS and E7B.

Thanks in advance!


Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 5:23 AM
anybody able to help?

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 5:58 AM
how did you connect the parking brake wire? Is the vehicle an automatic or manual? If it is an automatic, did you cut the jumper wire inside the brain?

Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 6:45 AM
Hi, thanks for the reply!

Based On the wiring from this forum, there isn't a parking brake wire. Hence I just grounded the wire. However, the error returned from the signal is 6 flashes, which means hood. No idea why it is this way though... There isn't hood sensing in the brain unit.

Yes I cut the jumper wire in the alarm.

Here is a summary of the issues from another email I wrote:
1) Push start not working

After connecting up all the required wires, i stepped on my foot brake, all doors are closed, trunk also closed, and i push the start button for 1 second. However, it keeps returning with signal error: 3 flashes - which according to the manual means that my door isn't closed properly. However, i am 100% certain that it is not an issue with the door sensing as my intruder alert feature works fine (alert sounds if door is opened when system is ARMED).

The manual says that i can by-pass the eBRAKE with i step on the foot brake and hold the start button for 4 seconds. When this happens, i get another error (6 signal flashes) that means the hood is OPEN! But for E7B, there isn't any HOOD sensing! Details in problem #2 below.

2) Remote start not working

Just like the PUSH START, remote start doesn't' work too. I closed all my doors, trunk and hood (no sensing), pushed button II for 2 seconds, but it gives the error signal (3 chirps/signals, then follow by the 6 signals) which means that the HOOD is not closed. However, based on the manual and the inputs of the brain unit, THERE ISNT ANY HOOD SENSING! Is there something wrong with the BRAIN unit? Looking at the manual, it says that E7B should NOT have hood sensing! But how come there is an error code that says HOOD is OPEN? Is the brain unit faulty? Or is it for the wrong model? 

3) ACC doesn't turn off when i put the key in

According to the manual, PUSH start button can be installed if i CUT the ACC wire of the car, and connect the key side and the engine side of the ACC wire to CN1 and CN4 respectively. After that, i need to cut my key and turn it to the ACC. However, when i do this, the lights do not turn off even when the push button is set to OFF. I think something is wrong with the brain unit. Please correct if i am wrong …

4) Auto lock/unlock sensing
The AUTO lock and unlock feature works. When i go near the car, about 1 meter away, it will unlock. HOWEVER, when i walk away, it doesn't lock immediately. I have already followed the manual and configure the "TIME TO REARMING" to 0 seconds. But it still takes about 30 seconds before fit locks, after i walk far away.

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 7:44 AM
for what its worth, youre better off switching to a different brand of starters thats reliable. i looked at the install guide, and i wouldnt even bother installing it. thats just my opinion.

looks like you have a defected unit. its indicating hood, when their is no hood trigger input from what i see.

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 7:56 AM
Hi, that would be something that I'll consider. I'm kinda hoping that
Somebody else with experience with this e7b have faced the
Same issue and have found a way to get around to it.


Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 9:12 AM
I would have to agree that it is a problem with the unit. Get a decent aftermarket unit with a good bypass (fortin or idatalink) and you will have a much more reliable unit.

Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 9:38 AM
Oh shucks ... looks like i have to go without a proper alarm for now. I used to have the Viper 5701, but i really like the push start and passive lock/unlock function of the E7B.

My car doesn't need a bypass, there isn't any inbuild immobilizer.

offroadzj: Have you had any experience installing the E7B? Ever had this issue before? Did you wire up your parking brake wire to something that is -12V? I cannot seem to find this wire at all ...

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 10:35 AM


1: Connect to STARTER wire of car
2: Not connected
3: Connect to ignition
4: 12v constant supply
5: Connect to Engine side of ACC
6: 12v constant supply (same as 4)

1-5: int
6: ground

1: Door unlock signal (-)
2: Door lock signal (-)
3: Signal light (+)
4: Not connected
5: Trunk relay
6: Connected to siren
7: Key sense (ground when key inserted)
8: Not connected
9: Not connected
10: Ground

1: Not connected
2: Not connected
3: brake light wire (+12V when stepped)
4: Not connected because #5 is connected
5: Door trigger input (-)
6: ground
7: Connected to key side of ACC wire
8: Not connected
9: Trunk trigger (-)

1-5: all not connected for now.

CN5-8, 10, 11: Connected to accessories provided

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: January 23, 2012 at 12:14 PM

thanks. ive checked it out. the instructions are pretty clear. however, it says that it doesnt provide the ignition system. what does that mean? do i still need the key for this to work?

anyway, back to the problem that i am facing, i'm still hoping that somebody with experience on the e7b will be able to give me some pointers.

On the side note, the ignition wire output from the brain unit comes connected to a relay:

85: connected to ignition output from the brain, also shorted with 87a
86: where should i connect this to?
87a: should i connect this to ignition wire of my car?
30: where should i connect this to?

There is no instructions in the manual as to how i should be connecting this. anybody able to shed some light?

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: January 25, 2012 at 12:50 AM
I'm not able to get any support from the vendor now, Chinese New Year period. Most are closed for business for 1 week plus. Anybody here with experience with easycar e7b able to give some advice?


Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 25, 2012 at 5:59 AM
Unfortunately I have no experience with that starter (nor have I ever heard of it), but I would just cut your loses and get a good aftermarket unit.... otherwise you may be running in circles for who knows how long.

Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: February 04, 2012 at 11:18 AM
Hi all,

Just an update to all, i've manage to figure the issue after consulting some local installers who have experience with this alarm. It turns out that i need to set the code for the knock pad first, before it will work.

The alarm is working well now, except for a few minor issues which i think i'll be able to solve. I'm also looking for the parking brake wire for Forte 1.6L 2010 model, if anybody knows where ic an find it, pls do let me know ;)

If anybody needs advise on how to wire this alarm, i'll be glad to share :)

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: February 04, 2012 at 11:19 AM
Hi all,

I'm in the midst of wiring the push start for my car, and i need to wire the parking brake to it. For now, i'm connecting the wire to GND, and the push start works. However, it would be better if i am able to find the wire for the parking brake. Can anybody tell me where can i find this wire? it is not found in the wiring table available in this site. The one stated is the same as the foot brake, which is not the one im looking for.

THanks in advance :)

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 04, 2012 at 10:56 PM
parking brake - BLUE (-) white 20 pin plug, rear of dash fuse box

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: February 04, 2012 at 11:17 PM

Thanks for the reply. But it seems that this is the same wire for the brake lights? Which means that it is actually the same as
Foot brake? I'm looking for a separate wire for parking brake.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 05, 2012 at 7:47 AM
they are 2 entirely different circuits...

the foot brake is POSITIVE white or black in DKP gray 39 pin plug

the emergency/parking/hand brake is NEGATIVE BLUE (-) white 20 pin plug, rear of dash fuse box

if you are unable to differentiate between the two, have an installer finish the install for you.

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: February 05, 2012 at 8:02 AM
Hi Tedmond,

Thanks for the clarification, i was puzzled by the information in this thread:

I guess i was wrong that i assumed the brake lights = foot brake. I'm glad that you were able to help me sort this out :)

Btw, Where can i get your version of wiring for Kia forte?

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 05, 2012 at 10:23 PM
the brake lights is your brake pedal.

the emergency brake is the one you pull with your hand, or step on (to far left of kick panel)

my wiring is from installogy, which is for dealers only unfortunately.

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: February 05, 2012 at 11:17 PM

Thanks for clarifying.

I'll try to probe the following wires over the weekend:

1) Foot Brake: (+) white or black in DKP gray 39 pin plug
2) Parking Brake (-) BLUE white 20 pin plug, rear of dash fuse box

Thanks again :)

Posted By: 3scamry
Date Posted: March 23, 2012 at 4:43 AM
Hi Genexis,i am having the same problem as you previously. I'm using easycar e7b, everything works except remote start. When i tried to remote start, it flashes 6 lights. Can you share how did u manage to solve this problem ? Thanks.

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: March 23, 2012 at 5:11 AM

Are you able to use PUSH START? If you can, then i don think we have the same issue as i'm not even able to perform a push-start.

Assuming that you also can't start the car with push-start, then you need to do the following:
1) Program your knock pad. Read the manual on how to do it. This was the main issue that prevented me to start my car.
2) Connect your parking brake wire. If you are not able to find the correct wire, then connect it to GND.

Try the above and update us again :)

Posted By: 3scamry
Date Posted: March 23, 2012 at 5:17 AM
Hi, yes i am able to perform push start. I have programmed my knock pad too. Parking brake wire is connected also. All the other function works, just the push start not working. Thanks for your assistance.

Posted By: 3scamry
Date Posted: March 23, 2012 at 6:19 AM
I mean just the remote start not working.

Posted By: bkyungguru
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 11:16 PM
So need help to i have the e7-b and the iDatalink ads-al ca.

B4 a go anymore farther im asking for help other the anyone opinion on what i should buy with my own money!!!!

so i took it to a installer and he installed it and connected the brain to the idatalink ignition and everything he did not follow the ignition harness instruction so everything works but not the push start

i keep telling him that he has to connect it directly to the ignition but he keep telling me its no wire when on the 05 dodge magnum remote start weiring says it do.

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 29, 2012 at 6:30 AM

When using an iDatalink ADS AL CA on a 2005 Dodge Magnum, the bypass module should be
flashed with the ADS AL(DL) CH5 firmware.  Currently the CH5 firmware is at Ver 3.01
and the correct install guide is #8526.  The Type 1 wiring diagram should be followed. 
Here is a link to the iDatalink WEB site : 
You can either look up your car or just download the install guide noted above.

As per the install guide, there is only one direct ignition wire connection between the e7-b
remote starter and the vehicle.  That is the Starter wire thru a 5 Amp fuse.  Also note
this warning in the diagram just below the fuse. 

The iDatalink bypass module is an excellent choice for any Chrysler product and works
flawlessly when flashed, installed and programmed properly.  And, yes, I will keep my
opinion about the e7-b to myself.  posted_image

Soldering is fun!

Posted By: pablot
Date Posted: May 29, 2012 at 10:03 AM
just wondering if you guys got all your problems fixed with your easycar E772AS security system. I have the very same unit and am having some similar issues as you. It is being installed on a custom 2001 Suzuki Baleno manual transmission. The car will not Remote or Push Button Start. I followed your advice in your forum and programmed the Knock Sensor. It programmed and accepted the pass code correctly but still will not start. Keep getting Error code #3

I have also noticed that the instillation manual provided with the unit has a number of mistakes, have you noticed it as well?

ANY help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: May 29, 2012 at 10:13 AM
How about posting your wiring setup. We can't help much without knowing how you connected your wiring.

Posted By: pablot
Date Posted: May 30, 2012 at 10:36 AM
Thanks for your reply.

There apparels to be some discrepancy between the installation manual that came with the actual unit and the online manual from the companies website for the M-7700B brain unit for the E772AS.   

Section CN4 seems to be the area with the problem.
Box manual       
3. Red (+) Foot Brake Input
Online manual
3. Yellow (+) Foot Brake Input

Box manual
4. White (+) Parking Brake(A)/Hand Brake(M)
Online manual
4. Red (+) Door Trigger Input

Box manual
5.WHITE/ Black (-) Parking Brake(A)/Hand Brake(M)
Online manual
5. RED / Black (-) Door Trigger Input

Box manual
6. RED / Black (-) Door Trigger Input
Online manual
6. White (-) Parking Brake(A)/Hand Brake(M)

All the other connections are wired as you have it in your post except CN3&4 #7 because the car doesn't have an immobilizer.

Once again any help would be welcomed and appreciated!

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: May 31, 2012 at 3:13 AM
We have the same brain unit. i'll advice that you follow my wiring. Just to add:
1) I grounded the PARKING BRAKE wire as i cannot find mine. But it needs to be grounded.
2) Parking brake is very important. Connect it correctly to the correct wiring. I believe there is a +ve sense and a -ve sense one. Make sure you are using the right one for your car.
3) I think in the user manual, it shows some steps to setup your unit for MANUAL. I suggest your read EVERY page of the user manual and make sure you followed their steps.

btw... can you remind me what is error 3 flashes again?

Posted By: pablot
Date Posted: June 19, 2012 at 11:17 PM
Hi I am really hoping you can help me out. I have an easycar E772AS, its like the E7B

I am having problem with the remote start.

I have it in reservation mode and when i try remote start it just flashes 6 times (hood open) but yet there is no hood sensor for this unit.

Also how you install the clutch bypass?

Any help will be appreciated


Posted By: benkej
Date Posted: December 16, 2012 at 1:26 AM

pleas help me! I'm not able to program the pin. I Don't understand the manual. Please tell me exactly how to program.


Posted By: drizzle77
Date Posted: January 04, 2013 at 12:12 PM
javascript:AddSmileyIcon('posted_image')im not able to get my Easycar E3-B to work..
i managed to get the car started through remote...
but the push button start returns error with single parking light flash.(engine on error in the table of errrors in manual)

my car is a 2008 mitsubishi lancer (auto)

here is the detailed connections list i have done..
some connections are temporarly not connected since needed to test the main functions
i have connected only the sensor wires to enable the push start and the remote start functions
(please correct me if im wrong anywhere)


1.(yellow) --- starter wire in the vehicle direction
2.(white) --- not connected since no ignition 2 in my car
3.(green) --- ignition wire in my ignition switch harness
4.(RED / white) --- +12 volt supply
5.(blue) --- output to accessory wire going in the vehicle direction
6.(red) --- +12 volt supply

note:i havnt connected the relay for the starter kill


connected only ground with int : 1-5 connect (without door motor)


1.(yellow) - door unlock
2.(green) - door lock
3.(violet) - not connected since not required for testing
4.(gray) - not connected
5.(brown) - not connected
6.(white) - not connected (listens to the relay trigger to count the flashes)
7.(orange) - not connected
8.(blue) - not connected
9.(violet) --- bypass module not connected cause the key is in the keyhole or kept near the keyhole..
10.(black) --- connected to a ground (-)


1.(green) ---------not connected (engine running sensing set to noise)

since my tach wire is reading 12 volts before the start of car and 14 volts when the car is started
the unit doesnt start car since the alternator line needs less than 5 volts before start and 7-14v after start of car)

DOUBT:( --- how does the unit sense the electrical noise without connecting this wire!! my remote start works without connecting this wire,..

2.(brown) +parking light input / lock input --------------- not connected

3.(yellow) (+) foot brake input --------------------------- foot brake input +12v when stepped on foot brake

4.(red) (+) door trigger input ---------------------------- door triggerinput +5v when door is closed

5.(RED / black) (-)door trigger input ----------------------- not connected because 4 is connected

6.(white) (-) parking brake /hand brake ------------------- connected to +12 volt temporarly to immitate parking brake engaged

7.(+) acc input to keyox ---------------------------------- connected to acc wire in the ignition harness that goes to the keybox side

8.(ORANGE / black) preheating light input ------------------- not connected

9.( violet/black) trunk trigger input --------------------- connected to +12 volt to immitate trunk closed

THE JUMPER IN THE UNIT IS CUT --- auto transmission

switch 1 set to   -- NOISE
switch 2 set to OFF -- LOW


connected cn5(easy door lock)(knock pad) ,cn7(antenna),cn8(start button) ,cn10(lf module)

cn6 (shock sensor) -- not connected cause not required for testing the push button and remote start)

cn9 --not connected cause not required for testing the push button and remote start


i registered key on the knock pad (i think :( cause its confusing )
when i knock and input the deafult 1-1-1-1 code nothin happens..:(
but after fiddling with it remote starter started working which makes me assume that code is registered..
any idea how to reset the code???


Posted By: elik745i
Date Posted: April 28, 2013 at 11:17 AM
Hi all, same problem, installed E8-B with Main unit M-7700
B. Pretty much the same issues, can't push start, flashes code 3, did not knock set password, remotes does not function either, anyone faced with this issue? should I register them first??? manual says press push start button 4 times to register after signal lights flashes once, then press 1 button on the remote, signal flashes 2 times. Seems like it does not work, anyone can help? Luckily I did not cut any wire yet, so I disconnected main unit, put all wires back to their places and assembled vehicle interior back. Will try next week-ends. Car is Toyota LC Prado with immobilizer system. By the way who knows where to get alternator sensing and also how to connect (where) that relay on green wire from CN1? any drawing will be much appreciated.


Posted By: tjnevis
Date Posted: May 22, 2013 at 1:05 PM
Hello Elik, Pablot, 3scamry, anybody that can help,

I have the same issue. Were you ever able to get it figured out? I posted here:

Kreg has posted about fixing some of the issues, but I still need help with the remote start on both cars and push button on one car.

Thanks for your help!

Posted By: elik745i
Date Posted: May 22, 2013 at 2:02 PM
Hi guys, I figured it out.
The most important connections are CN1, CN2, CN3, CN4
CN1: they got it all wrong, at least many contradictory information found, back of the unit says one thing, manual other, site and useless support third.....
so I had to disasemble the unit to figure it all out!
here is it:
PW1 (red) commutate to ACC(blue) by clicking once, then to IG2, this is where ON on the push button lit, from other hand PW2 commutate to IG1. if you press brake pedal (there for for unit to recognize this push, you must connect brake indication wire to CN4 wire) and push bbutton, all commutated wires also commutate to START(yellow) on CN1, same time disconnecting ACC, so I had 2 START wires, there for I had to use relay to commutate othe one too, separatelly! this is very important as otherwise I was getting Check Engine error!

Door open indication and emergency brake wire (white on CN4) is also important!

On CN4, green wire must be connected to the alternator! so when engine gets started it receives voltage! this is important!

The rest of the wires simply useless for my vehicle.
In the future I'll connect mirror folding from CN9, that is it.

Do not forget to cut ACC wire from keybox and make sure kewy is in the keybox and turned to ACC position (otherwise engine will not start giving errors!) blue wire from CN4 needs to be connected to ACC wire keybox side!

Also you must register remotes first as those comes unregistered, then 4 digit pin. Process of registration pretty straight forward and can be found in youtube!

and that is it basically

Very challenging for me was to find alternator and door(central lock)wires, but you can refer to the service manuals to find them!


Posted By: tjnevis
Date Posted: July 13, 2013 at 5:30 PM
Does anyone have any E7-B or E8-B brain units? I have an E7-B, but a professional installer told me there is an issue with the unit I have - apparently there are 500 units circulating with a 'hood open' issue. Anyway, if you have these brain units to sell, how much would you sell them for?

Posted By: benkej
Date Posted: July 15, 2013 at 1:53 AM
I have one e7-b, never installed. You need only the brain unit?

Posted By: *daniel*
Date Posted: July 16, 2013 at 10:43 PM
Dear Genexis and all,

this is new user having head ache with E7 B. I have spent 2 days, but couldn't get push button works. first, both remote and push button didn't work, then I manage to code the knock sensor, suddently remote start was working. but push button is not working but chirping 3 times as error code.

Door switch is correct, coz I can see actual close/open positions on LCD. and parking brake is grounded, trunk release is not use, but I have tried connect together with door switch. either way it is not working.

and I suspect about knock sensor. I input the 4 digit code as Instructions, it seem ok coz I can see response from led, after 4 digit, controller make the confirmation sound. However, I wan unable to lock/unlock by knocking on my code. After 4 digit, some led running, but there is no activity on locking/unlocking.
Is there something wrong?

Guys, please advise.

thanks in advance.

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: July 17, 2013 at 2:28 AM
tjnevis wrote:

Does anyone have any E7-B or E8-B brain units? I have an E7-B, but a professional installer told me there is an issue with the unit I have - apparently there are 500 units circulating with a 'hood open' issue. Anyway, if you have these brain units to sell, how much would you sell them for?

i may have one. let me look around.

Posted By: *daniel*
Date Posted: July 18, 2013 at 12:14 AM

After coding again and again to knocking sensor, the push button starts working. Even though there are still some minor flaws, I think I can live with them.

Another problem is, the knocking sensor is not be able to receive the code any more. All led flash at the same time. I can't turn on the LCD 2 way remote anymore, remote is ringing all the time. Looks like owner call mode. I press, the IV button, and I button. there's no effect. Remote keep ringing.

What shall I do.


Posted By: solareclpse2000
Date Posted: July 28, 2013 at 4:31 AM
my remote was doing all kinds of crazy stuff when i first got it. try pushing the reset button on back. that fixed mine.  but i have the E8. im having same issues as everyone else. start button all lights lit, key in warning ringing. wont turn off after i turn it onb. no power on no start. nothing b ut key warning ringing. i got a long road trip tomoro ill be making so ill just deal with it when im home. o yea most important part..... to be safe and have a back up i wired all the key box wires through relays so with just the flip of an override switch i installed im back on the road with my key just like easy car was never installed.  also i havent programed my knock pad either cuz i tried and couldnt figure it out. u make up your pin and enter it in knock pad 3 times and the pin should be programed right? also cant program my remotes cuz the start button wont go into program mode when i click it 4 times???

Posted By: tjnevis
Date Posted: August 01, 2013 at 12:01 PM
I've had a terrible time with the Easycar too. I've been working on it since March and I am almost (finally) done installing it in 2 cars. The 2 E7-B brains I have had an issue with 'hood open', 6 flashes, and wouldn't remote start. Come to find out there are about 500 M7700 series brains with this issue. The one thing that makes Easycar suck is their quality control. I decided to ditch the push button and I got an E702S (M7000) brain. The instructions were more clear and the wire layout makes more sense too. I just used all of the E7-B peripherals I already had, including the remote.

I found an installer who has been in the business for 17 years and it turns out Easycar is (almost) Compustar. I guess a guy worked at Compustar, separated and did his own thing in Korea, taking the rights he owned from Compustar and created Easycar. To this day, Easycar and Compustar share technologies, like the Easy Door (knock lock/unlock), Compustar's version is RPS Touch.

Anyway, Compustar is coming out with a new pro series unit that has EZ-GO installed in the remote, just like Easycar's RFID/LF technology, in the 4th quarter 2013. They have EZ-GO now, but you have to add that onto your keychain. Compustar also has other cool modules you can add, like Drone. I wish I knew of Compustar before I got waist deep into Easycar.

Posted By: genexis
Date Posted: August 03, 2013 at 2:34 AM
genexis wrote:

tjnevis wrote:

Does anyone have any E7-B or E8-B brain units? I have an E7-B, but a professional installer told me there is an issue with the unit I have - apparently there are 500 units circulating with a 'hood open' issue. Anyway, if you have these brain units to sell, how much would you sell them for?

i may have one. let me look around.

Hey i found it :) Its a M7700B. You could take it for $100 shipped with express tracking.

Posted By: monti755
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 9:23 AM
Hello. Easycar FANS.

Anybody has installed the New M7700-C Main Module? It's basically the same as the M7700-B just its has now the Data-Link port to be connected directly with Fortin EVO-ALL Interface module through the DATA-LINK cable. It is now available for the E3-B, E772AS, E6-B, E7-B, E8-B and the new E7III-B. They all use the same Main Module and the same Installation guide only the remotes are different. Please let me know if somebody already installed it using Fortin EVO-ALL CANBUS Interface Module.

Posted By: benkej
Date Posted: October 04, 2014 at 6:43 AM
I have new unused brain unit for sale.
https://www./itm/291259049964 if somebody need it, please bid.

Posted By: benkej
Date Posted: October 04, 2014 at 6:45 AM
it is on eBay, item number is 291259049964

Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 04, 2014 at 10:18 AM
benkej wrote:

it is on eBay, item number is 291259049964

You resurrect an old thread just to make a fleabay plug?

Maybe you should read the forum rules.

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Posted By: almarri
Date Posted: January 18, 2016 at 4:51 AM
Hi All

I have same problem push button not start engine and give me error 3 door open and when I try to start engine from remote I get error 6 hood open

My remote is E772AS with M-7700B unit

any body fix this problem or any update

Thanks All

Posted By: tjnevis
Date Posted: March 23, 2016 at 10:16 AM

From my experience the hood pin error 6 when remote starting is because CN4-7, the blue wire (ACC to keybox) is not on +12v. The easiest thing is to connect that with the CN1 blue wire.

I've got a couple of issues that I'm hoping someone might be able to help me out with.

I've got everything working with my E8B and it's been crazy. 3 years in the's a long story that isn't necessary, but I'm super excited at this point.

1 - Is there a way to keep the car on? What I mean is if you push button start, or remote start (then enter a push-button like mode, after disarming the system and hitting the brake...when the remote start timer turns off), can you keep the car on? I had the E772AS (I think...or similar model, without push button), and I could hit the remote start button when the car was on...wait a second, and take the key out of the ignition and leave the car. There would still be the security in place where if someone opened the door, the alarm goes off, and if you hit the brake without the key in the ignition, the engine turns off. The push button doesn't work quite like that. Even after I leave the car and hit's literally like I left the keys in there (which makes sense). If you unlock the door, you can drive away with the car. If I hit the remote start button, it spits out the error code that the car is already on, which is true...but my question is, is there a way to basically transition from push button mode back to remote start mode? Where it has the timer, the brake and door security, etc? The only way I can figure around this to keep the car on when going to the store or something, is to turn the car off and them remote start it. If possible (it's not a huge deal), if I could have that same feature I had before, that'd be pretty cool.

2 - I have a second car that I installed the E8B on, it's a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix. The ignition has those thumb posts on it. So when I cut the key, I can't really stick the push button over the ignition (because of those posts). What are other people doing in similar cases? I'd like to stick the push button over the ignition so nobody gets any ideas in their head seeing a cut key in the ignition - even though it won't do anything.

3 - How do you properly set options? The instructions are confusing. It says I have to hit the buttons twice....and with the beeps and stuff...I just don't think I'm doing it right. I'm trying to set the Door Output Time, which I think/hope is the unlock time? Of either 0.8 seconds or 4 seconds. I want it to be 4 seconds to act as a double pulse to unlock the other doors. I hit I + IV to enter program mode, then II, II, IV, IV, then II for the 4 second option. It doesn't seem to work. I tried another option that's easier to see if I've set it properly and that's the Door is Open option. I tried to turn that off so the lights don't blink when the door opens. And that doesn't seem to work. So, I think I just don't know how to do it. Anyone with any advice would be helpful!

Thanks for your help!

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