disable parking light delay

I have a 2011 Ford Escape.  I want to disable the factory accessory delay circuit, in particular for the parking light delay.  This issue is that the new Viper alarm is hooked up to the parking lights, and when you arm the vehicle you cannot see the lights flash (I know there is a siren chirp) because the parking lights stay on for the factory accessory delay timeout.

The factory key fob will turn off the parking lights when the doors are locked but there is no factory alarm arm wire in the car.  Has anyone had this issue on this car or any other car?  I have set the time delay to 0 sec. in the factory menu system, but it does not work in all scenarios, depending on the order of which passenger doors are open.

All i can think of would be to build a relay time delay circuit to cut power to the wire in the system powering the lights. 

In the driver's kick panel (should be same harness you found factory alarm disarm PURPLE / brown) there are YELLOW /GREEN and PURPLE / Green, pulse both at the same time with diode isolated negative...should arm the factory alarm. Not sure if this will achieve what you are looking for or not but worth a shot. Make sure you post back with your results.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Yes i saw on this site that those 2 wires were mentioned for the 2010 Escape.  I have a 2011 Escape, and even though i would think those 2 models are identical, the DEI wiring guide states that the factory security arm and disarm are N/A.

If that is the case, doesnt that indicate that the 2011 Escape would not have those wires?

I wired the entire Viper system from the center console and found ALL wires right there, so i have not taken apart the drivers side covers, but i dont see those wires in the center console area where all of the connections to the logic are.

I found the 2 wires.  Both read 12V, so i diode isolated both and pulsed negative at the same time and nothing happened.  Looking in the factory wiring manual, those 2 wires are coming from the buttons you press on the door numbered keypad.  Since they are 12V I also trying pulsing 12V for fun and of course that did nothing either.

Any other ideas?

you dont just connect wires "for fun" verify with a dmm.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Exactly. The fun will come to a quick end when the right wire gets the wrong signal.

At any rate, I would try playing around with the car first, with no tools or disassembly, and see if you can get it to do what you want.

Try maybe locking the door with the driver's doorlock switch while the door is open, then closing the door. Or try playing around with that keypad outside, also with the door open and then with the door closed. Who knows.....try doing something with the hatch open/closed even.

Try it with the key in the ignition, or maybe lock the door, close it, then put the key back in and see what happens.

Try also to see what happens if you turn the key in the outside of the driver's door. I don't think your car will do anything, but it can't hurt to try.

After you try all those scenarios and see what you like, then you can go about trying to duplicate it with your wiring.

Alternately, can you find the hazard wire in the car? You could connect your light GREEN / WHITE "arm" wire to the hazards, and you'll get a hazard flash every time you lock the car.   (It'll also flash at remote start shutdown.)

You could even take your light GREEN/ black (disarm) and light GREEN / WHITE (arm) wires, tie them together, and connect them both to the hazards on the car. Then you'll get brief hazard flashes with the following: unlock, lock, remote start activation, and remote start shutdown. I've done this on friends' cars; it ends up being pretty nice.