avital 4003 on 02 silverado

Hello All, I have been working on an Avital 4003 remote start with a PL DATA III (crime stopper) bypass module. I must be missing a few wires because nothing happens when I press the lock button or unlock button 3 times (or more).

It seems like the Avital unit is not getting the 'signal' to 'activate' or start the truck.

Here is a list of what I have connected:

Primary Harness (H1)

H1/1 - Factory Alarm Disarm (Lt. Green / Blk) -> Factory Alarm Disarm (Lt. Green - from purple plug at BCM)

H1/2 - NA (Factory Alarm Rearm)

H1/3 - NA (Ignition out - to alarm)

H1/4 - NA (Activation Input)

H1/5 - NA (Ground When Locked)

H1/6 - Horn Output (Brown) -> Horn Trigger (Blk - from Brown plug at BCM)

H1/7 - NA (Trunk Release)

H1/8 - Ground (Blk) -> Ground (Kick panel)

H1/9 - Light Flash (Wht) -> Parking Lights (Brown - from Blue plug at BCM)

4-pin satellite harness

1 - Status output (blue) -> In Running (blue - bypass module)

2 - NA (accessory output)

3 - NA (Starter Output)

4 - NA (Ignition Output)

Heavy Gauge Harness

1 - Output to Ignition (pink) -> Ignition Wire (Pink - Ignition harness)

2 - Output to Starter (purple) -> Starter Wire (Yellow - Ignition harness)

3 - Output to Accessory (Orange) -> Accessory Wire (orange - Ignition harness)

4 - 30A High current 12v Input (Red) -> 12v constant wire (red - ignition harness)

5 - Programmable output for IGNITION (wht) -> Second Ignition wire (wht - ignition harness)

6 - 30A High current 12v Input (Red) -> 12v constant wire (red - ignition harness)

Door Lock Harness

1 - NA (Unlock Output)

2 - NA (not used)

3 - NA (Lock Output)

Remote Start Harness (H2)

H2/1 - NA (Neutral Safety Switch - (Blk/Wht))

H2/2 - Tachometer Input (Violet / Wht) -> Not yet connected but I will.

H2/3 - Brake Switch Shutdown (Brown) -> Brake Wire (wht - large black junction box above BCM)

H2/4 - NA (Hood Pin Switch - Gray)

H2/5 - NA (200mA 2nd status/rear defogger - blue/wht)

PL DATA III (bypass module)

Black (from unit) -> ORANGE / Black from ignition

Yellow - Data Out (from unit) -> Yellow from ignition

White - 2 d ignition 12v out (from unit) -> NA

Pink - Mane ignition 12v in (from unit) -> Output to Ignition (pink) from the heavy gauge harness

Purple - Starter In+ (use for passlock I and mode 2 only) - NA

Brown - Bulb Test Out- (Use for passlock I only) - NA

Blue - in running- -> Status Output (blue from 4-pin satellite harness)

Green - Data in) use for mode 2 only -> NA

Installed as 'MODE1 PasslockII' Potentiometer has been adjusted

(Thank you in advance for all of your help)

i believe H2/1 needs to be grounded for the car to start.

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

And how do you have the connections between the unit and the bypass. It sounds like you are running wire to wire. It sounds like your bypass is for the immobilizer only, which means you must connect the door lock wires to the vehicle through a relay since they are positive trigger on that vehicle.

Power Lock lt. blue + BCM, brown plug, pin A4
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the driver dash.

Power Unlock white + BCM, brown plug, pin A3
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the driver dash.

Also, what remote are you trying to use to work the unit? If you are using the Avital remote then there should be no reason to press lock/unlock 3 times. That makes me think you are trying to start it with the factory key fob... which will require more connections and programming.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

H1/4 is you activation input, this needs to be hooked up to your Door Lock Motor wire in the car. This way when you press lock it will read the pulses sent and activate the starter. No relay required, this should be a direct connection as that wire reads positive or negative pulses.

Power door Lock Motor wire - On base models, it is gray (5 wire) at the dash fuse box, black 12 pin plug, pin C. Otherwise its gray at the drivers door power window switch inside the drivers door.


Also, as said before your BLACK/ white H2/1 needs to be either permanently grounded or grounded through the toggle switch and the switch turned on to remote start. If you use the switch, that can be used as an override switch to turn off the remote starter while working on the car so it won't start by accident.

Thanks all for the responses. I will try to connect those wires when I get home this evening. Offriadzj you are correct I would like to use the factory key fob to activate the remote start. What other connections and programming would be required? Thank you all again!

Flobee4 I knew that pesky activation input had to be connected to something ... Only a couple more hours then I can go hook this stuff up

Make sure after you connect the activation input that you set the programming to 3 pulse activation. Otherwise every time you press lock it will remote start.

Just so you know, there is a good possibility that your factory remote will not work once the vehicle is running. You can either wait til you finish and find out then, or start it with the key and see if your factory remote still works.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

VICTORIOUS!
Thanks a million. you guys are awesome. You were right on the money I needed to hook up the H2/1 ground wire and hook up the 'Activation input' to the Unlock Driver Door Wire. Programmed the unit for 3 pulses to activate AND good news...

The remote still works when the car is started. I can re-lock the doors and another press of the 'unlock' button will kill the engine. I am pretty happy with it =-)

The only think I'm not sure about is IF I do kill the engine with the key fob the radio continues to play. Like I have turned off the vehicle with the key but have not exited. Is this something to be worried about?

Its a delayed accessory option on the vehicle. There are a couple things you can do. You can use the factory re-arm wire and connect it to the door pin. This will pulse the door pin making it seem like the door was opened which will turn off the radio.

Or you can watch it and see if it times out. Every vehicle I have ever done the radio has timed out. Some are within a minute or so, and others are as long as 10-15 minutes. Check to see if yours times out and if you are ok with it staying on that amount of time. If so then don't worry about it.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

why didnt you hook to the lock wire instead of the unlock wire?

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

It made really good sense in my head at the time... (smile)
I may switch it to the lock wire so i can hear the horn beep at me. but other than that I don't know if its a real big deal. I can lock it after it is started (with the key fob) if needed. So I don't know if it is a big deal ... your thoughts?

for gods sake!! use the lock wire......using the unlock wire uses 25 percent more battery power and i dont think you are being any part of the green movement trying to save the earth if you use the unlock wire on your .....wait a minute. a remote start aint very green .... keep it on the unlock wire and use 5 pulses....LOL

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

I've always used lock wire myself. One less step or button push after remote starting to lock the doors. If you are done and don't have any plans to get back under the dash I would leave it. However if you find yourself back under there at a later time and you feel adventurous swap the activation input over to the lock wire.

From my window at work (5th story) I can start my car with the unlock button... but it will not re-lock. I can re-lock it when I am closer (i.e. walking toward the vehicle in the parking lot).

Any idea why the 'unlock' would go further than the 'lock' ... or is my little key fob just tired of me pressing the unlock button so many times (smile)...

i dont know but what if you had the wire that pulses a factory alarm, pulse instead your door locks and relock the car for you?

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.