06 hondal civic rs issues viper db all

Ok here is where I am at…sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as detailed as possible.

Vehicle is a 2006 Honda Civic Auto Trans
Installing a Viper 4203V Responder one 1 button 2-way Remote Start only
Using a DB-ALL interface box, firmware is HONDA4, wired in D2D using install type 2

Here are the connections I have made

Viper Wire     Wire in Vehicle
Heavy Gauge harness     
Red (both reds are tied together)     White in ignition harness
Pink Ignition out     Blue in ignition harness
Violet Starter out     Yellow ignition harness
Orange Accessory     Orange Ignition harness
Pink/white 2nd accessory     Red ignition harness
     
Primary Harness     
Lt GREEN/ Black Factory Alarm Disarm     Not used
GREEN / WHITE Factory Rearm     Not used
Yellow Ignition out (to alarm)     Not used
WHITE/ Blue Activation Input     Not used
Orange Ground when locked(not used in one button)     Not used
Brown Horn output     Orange small steer wheel harness
RED / white (not used in one button)     Not used
Black Ground     Using factory ground point under dash above fuse panel
     
4 Pin Satellite Harness      Not used
     
Door Lock Harness      Not used
     
Remote Start harness      
BLACK/ White Neutral Safety Switch      Wired Through toggle switch and grounded at factory ground under dash just above fuse panel
Violet/white Tach input     Not used
Brown brake switch     Although the DB-all says this does not need to be wired, at first the car started and would not shut off, so I wired it to the lt green wire at the brake switch
Gray Hood pin     Installed hood pin
Blue/white Defogger     Not used
     
DB-ALL WIRES     
Pink Ignition input     Blue Ignition harness
Lt Green Single CAN Wire      Pink 7 pin immobilizer connector
ORANGE / black Immobilizer Data     Lt Green 7 pin immobilizer connector
BLACK/ white Lock output      Green in white plug going to driver door
GREEN/ Black Unlock ouput     Gray in white plug going to driver door

Ok so those are the wire I have connected, and here is what is going on. I got everything and programmed the DB-all, and tried to remote start and it worked fine. Then I noticed that it was not turning off with the foot brake, at this point I hard wired the foot brake input directly to the remote start ( thinking out loud, b/c I’m using the DB-All should I have used the output from that instead of going right to the foot brake…thoughts?) at this point the system seemed to be working fine. I tested it several times (probably 10 or so) and there were no issues. I then put everything back together and was about to pull out of the shop, I go to remote start……nothing happens and I get a “Failed Tone” from the 2-way remote and red LED. I pull everything a part again and double check all my wiring and connections, confirming wires with me DMM, all the while trying to RS the vehicle, about 1 out of every 10 attempts the vehicle would RS, and once it RS started and the horn started going off (the factory alarm I would assume)

This one has me really confused, I feel like it could be the factory anti theft system giving me issues, but then I also feel like sometimes the signal is not even getting to the control unit for the remote start, almost like I have the antenna disconnected ( I don’t though….i checked that).

Any ideas, I know this is a long one but its so intermittent its killing me brain.

Thank you   

Also I typed this in word, if you're having a hard time reading the wiring info I can email you the table.

Thanks again

For what its worth, I rarely have had any luck with D2D. I always go W2W and have had much more reliability. I agree that it sounds like it is not disarming the alarm on remote start. You can also check the programming on the unit and make sure it is set to disarm before remote start.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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For what its worth, I rarely have had any luck with D2D. I always go W2W and have had much more reliability. I agree that it sounds like it is not disarming the alarm on remote start. You can also check the programming on the unit and make sure it is set to disarm before remote start.

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When say check programing you are referring to the DB-all Correct? Also would just hooking up the disarm wire from the RS directly to the car fix this, or would that upset the DB-all for some reason??? Im just spit balling here. One more also...would you recommend a different bypass, I dont have an issue getting another one and starting fresh.. Thank you

the dball will automatically take care of disarm for you. a buddy did a test vehicle 09 civic with dball/5901 works fine. had the same issue of it not wanting to start. i rechecked the wiring and had to run a tach wire. note check your wires for immobilizer/data.



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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the dball will automatically take care of disarm for you. a buddy did a test vehicle 09 civic with dball/5901 works fine. had the same issue of it not wanting to start. i rechecked the wiring and had to run a tach wire. note check your wires for immobilizer/data.

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I will give this a try...I am still concerned that the RS box makes zero noise, like I can't hear any relays clicking, not parking light flash, almost like its not getting a signal from remote...how could i test fot this?

on the primary harness there should be a red wire fused. this is the power for your brain.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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on the primary harness there should be a red wire fused. this is the power for your brain.

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Normally there is, however on this system there is not....its the viper responder one.....its a one button remote start only. There are two fused power wires on the heavy gauge harness. I found it odd that there were was not a small gauge power wire on the main harness too.   

Here is a link to the install manual for the system I used

Viper Responder One

Thank you again for your help guys.

check to see if you have power and ground at the connectors.

the remotes come pre programmed. check to see if fuses are still good.
i say the ground connection should be double checked.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I am 99% sure they are all good.....I have a few more ideas to try just from other posts (the tach wire, and i will prob reflash the DB-All just to be sure) problem is the car is back with customer...god i hate that i had to return it not working.

In either case....I really feel like the remotes are not even transmitting with the control unit cause i can't here the units relays click at all when i push the button on the remote....like if it were a security problem wouldn't the RS control unit still try to got through the motions of starting, even it the car didn't respond. My question is at what point do i consider either a bad antena or a bad control model???

Thanks again for the quick responses.

its most likely antenna, but not limited to module or a pinched antenna wire.

do you have extra control modules for replacement?

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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its most likely antenna, but not limited to module or a pinched antenna wire.

do you have extra control modules for replacement?

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Sadly I do not.

I also was just reading on the DB-all instructions, that the TACH wire may need to be connected cause its not supported in D2D for all applications, but if this was the issue I think it would still try to start and just die right away, or never turn over...right??? I mean i'll hook it up, its one more wire no big deal but im not sure its the issue. Like i said its odd cause it worked several times and then all the sudden just stopped working.

I can always go to a local shop and buy new antenna/see if they have extra antenna cable.

Thanks again

get the vehicle back in and check it. definitely run tach.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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get the vehicle back in and check it. definitely run tach.

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Ok kind of a dumb question...but do you think its worth reflashing the DB-ALL and is that ok to do....I have never had to reflash one....im just curious if thats ok to do...I mean it should be, but thought i would ask.

Thank you

you can always reflash, then reprogram. doesnt hurt to do so.
make sure youre using master keys (black key head)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I will try all of these things, i can get the car back Saturday, so stay tuned for an update.

Thank you again for all your help

OK so i got the car back today.

I plugged everything back in ( i had removed the db-all and brain box) thought to myself, lets give it a shot....hit the button it fired right up.

I have spent the last few hours testing it, doors locked...unlocked...everything. it appeared to be working fine. So i pull it out and decide to let it sit. It sat for about 40 min, i went to hit it, and it fired up but the alarm (factory) started going off. Should i just hook up the the disarm wire right from the unit at this point????

Thank you

You might as well just connect the disarm and save yourself the hassle. How long were you letting it sit while testing it? The factory alarm doesn't normally arm until roughly 30seconds after locking on some cars.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

yea i was starting it and testing it pretty fast.....i already have the car back in an apart....the cirb sheet i have says its in the drivers kick and brown....but thats not to helpful....can you shed any light on this wire and its location....thank you

in the driver kick panel, look for 2 grey wire looms. the tape is siliar to 3m fabric tape.

in the harness above, you will find a brown disarm wire. roughly 22+ gauge. its thin so careful when stripping it. test by turning key in the door.



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

ok i found 4 of them....3 show ground all the time...and the fourth doesnt test out.....i found the gray tape, and i am splicing in below the plugs in the kick....there at 2 white and a blue right next to eachother....this is killing me here

Ok so....i got fed up looking for this wire...i swear this car has been a nightmare. I took the drivers door apart and found it there. Hooked it up and everything seems to working fine...although now the doors dont work with the RS remote....but to honest at this point i could careless and i'll tell customer they need to use the key in the door (i'll blame it on honda). Im going to let it sit for a min and try it a few more times, just to make sure its working properly.

I have to have an issue with the control unit and/or attena. Its like the signal is just not getting through. I get a negative tone on the remote, intermittently of course, and nothign happens. This has also happen when i was trying to set up system features...i can get into the menu fine but then when i hit the button on the remote i get the negative tone and nothing happens. Thoughts?

the door locks have to be hard wired. the dball has options for wires into the bypass, and analog signals out for the door locks.

should read the manual thoroughly before installing.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I have worked on quite a few civics in the uk and when using the dball you need to hardwire the negative cdl wires at the plug coming in from the drivers door as it enters the car.

kop1 is right. you got to do this for all 06+ civics

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

The door locks were hard wired from the start...i had to add the disarm wire from the viper box cause for some reason the dball was not taking care of that.

So pretty much the only thing i am using the dball for now is a bypass, everything else is wired. For now it seems to be working fine but im not ruling out and issues with either the control unit, or the antenna itself. Time will tell.

Thanks for all your helps guys.

Well i have new viper unit on the way. The current system is still in the customers car and she says its batting about 500. That is 50% of the time when you hit the button it starts up no problem. The other 50% you get a negative tone from the the remote and the car does not start....if you wait a few sec and hit the button again it fires right up. I am hoping that a new control unit and antenna will fix this issue

Thoughts???

Thank you

i would rip it all out, then install from scratch. its easier in most cases to find your mistakes. unless you're very good with diagnosing.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Before you replace the entire unit I would just replace the antenna, relearn the remotes, and try again. It very well could be a broken antenna wire or bad antenna. Did you inspect all of the wires on the antenna to make sure none were damaged?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Before you replace the entire unit I would just replace the antenna, relearn the remotes, and try again. It very well could be a broken antenna wire or bad antenna. Did you inspect all of the wires on the antenna to make sure none were damaged?

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Yes i did...I completely removed the antenna cable, visually inspected and ohmed the individual wires.