Printer Friendly Forum Posts - e90 bmw evo can int bmw2 clifford 50.7x

Since it's 11:30pm here and I'm still trying to work out how to expand your image so I can read it would you like to explain what you think is wrong?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Since it's 11:30pm here and I'm still trying to work out how to expand your image so I can read it would you like to explain what you think is wrong?

It seems like I should have more wires running to the remote start part of it. im just not sure that part is correct.

Here i put the photo with a different link . shoujld look better now

[url]https://postimage.org/image/xyi3guvfb/full/[/url]

[url]https://uploadpic.org/storage/2011/drOEiZYmLmgDr3IOB5PXHS9f.png[/url]

Yes, I noticed that, I'll look at Fortin in the a.m. and get back to you, especially no starter wire!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

thats exactly what I was thinking. like um not starter wire?? seriously???

I think that when you connect up the CAN Hi and Lo, that signals the vehicle to start up, but please confirm it by contacting Fortin themselves.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

no physical start wire on the car.

the start signal is sent by data. the only thing you need to be extra aware of are the brakes. if you bypass it incorrectly with the fortin module, the vehicle will NOT start. i did one with a friend awhile back. great modules to use(expensive though) and worked great.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

no physical start wire on the car.

the start signal is sent by data. the only thing you need to be extra aware of are the brakes. if you bypass it incorrectly with the fortin module, the vehicle will NOT start. i did one with a friend awhile back. great modules to use(expensive though) and worked great.

yeah super expensive. Can you look at this newest diagram I made and let me know if this bench work is correct??

https://postimage.org/image/z1te9n0yv/full/

https://www.picstation.net/show-image.php?id=00a98ec9ff78ad553dd0d22e3f51aea9

https://uploadpic.org/v.php?img=vxVoGZOqpx

I have old wiring from a code alarm alarm that was installed. im wondering if I can just unplug this alarm or if I really need to go to each wire and take connections off and do everything like that?? I havent used the alarm in forever and it doesnt seem to mess with any functions of my key fob??

I know that the "right way" is to take it out but is it really going to hurt to just unplug it??

you can unplug and tape up the ends. remove the fuses as well and tape the fuse holder up.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

No stick with the Clifford, it's a much better unit and wire the door locks correctly, i.e. to the WHITE/ black lock and blue/red unlock in the switch panel in the driver's door, NEG pulse and program comfort close. That with the above mentioned grey valet key should solve your problems.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I dont have a grey valet key so im just going to try and use my second key fob i think that should work. So i cant just unplug the other wires from the alarm when it comes to the door wires (lock/unlock) I have to fix these wires??

sorry your post kind of confused me. I dont plan on using sode alarm I just needed to know if I should take it out of my car or not.

Tedmond im pretty sure im going to take your advice. thanks. ill let yyou guys know how the install goes

I'm sorry, senile dementia, I confused this with another BMW post, follow Ted's advice he knows this install.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ahhhh!!!!!! This is not fun :-( I think i just picked a wrong day to do this.

SO here we go. my status so far.

right now nothing on the evo-can. is working properly. it seems like it is just not recognizing anything :-(

the int-bmw2 is interesting. I got the key and barrel wires connected first. and i plugged the batter back to the car to make sure it still started and it did :-) Then I cut the brake wires and hooked all of that up and tried starting it and it started again :-)

weird thing is that when I have the car on and I press the lock button on the clifford remote it turns the car off. I know that the unlock button is connected to the int-bmw2 so I figured i know that part is working.

When i try to do the remote start I get 7 clicks from the clifford box. Im going to have to look in the manual and see what this means. This may be able to get fixed.

The only thing I can think of that is wrong with the EVO-CAN is that the firmware is 4.4.00 and the int-bmw2 says it needs to be 4.4.02 but the only thing i see in the notes is the handbrake enhancement and thats it!@!! All the evo-can does is keep blinking. It says you dont have to program it but IDK...

Maybe I need to do my CAN wires over again?????? They seem fine to me though......

you have to program the evocan to the vehicle you are working on.

7clicks from clifford, check neutral safety BLACK/ white. make sure its grounded if auto or connected to ebrake if manual. plug nss switch in and turn to on.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Dang your good!!!!!after programing things are starting to work

I guess my car requires a double pulse to unlock and a single pulse to lock so I had to program this to the clifford unit.

So far the lock and unlock work and the trunk open is also working.

only thing that I need to check is the door status thing because when I unlock the door the lights wont turn on. well they have a couple times but i need it to work all of the time.

oh and I still havent got remote start working just yet. It was clicking 7 times so I changed it to automatic mode then it started clicking 8 times and I grounded the neutral safety wire but still nothing.....

sure you grounded the neutral safety wire, but you still didnt plug in the switch that came with the unit. plug it in and turn it to the on position.

start your vehicle with the key, press and hold the valet button on the antenna, until the led turns blue. that is the tach learn procedure.if t fails to turn blue you should run a tach wire.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

ok looks like the ground i was using for the NSS was not a very good ground. I hooked it to all of the other grounds and this fixed the issue. Now the remote start initiates but it wont start the car.

im checking all my wires and they look good.....The only thing i can think of is that maybe I havent wrapped the keyfob and the barrel good enough.......

i may have to call fortin and see what they think......

btw I am using the keyfob since the direction said I could......

use the valet key, using the key fob causes problems with the lock/unlock.

you can use the fob, but you got to remove the battery in it.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

i dont have a valet key :-( and really dont want to pay 60 for it. guess ill attempt to take this battery out :-(

try it without stripping the battery. i took it out when i did one.

why dont you try this.

hold that key up to the ignition cylinder. attempt to remote start and if it starts up, you have a problem with the key wrap.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

try it without stripping the battery. i took it out when i did one.

why dont you try this.

hold that key up to the ignition cylinder. attempt to remote start and if it starts up, you have a problem with the key wrap.

nope looks like something else is wrong :-( when i put the key up to the key barrel it shows the yellow key in the dash and i press the remote start button and the module tries but the car doesnt do anything......

now if i actually put the key in and press the remote start you can tell its wants to start because the headlights come on like it trying to start but it never starts.......

Also if i do it this way while the headlights are on and its trying to start i can press the start button without pressing the brake and the car starts up. So i know the brake wires are correct.

it seems like it just doesnt want to start the actual starter......

Removing the battery makes no difference, the RFI chip is still "talking" to various processors in the car. The battery simply powers the remote for lock and unlock.
Does this method ask you to power up an ACC as an ignition like the earlier models?
The comment roughly, "the instructions said I could use the key"....
Read my by-line or get the hint from Tedmund's.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

there has to be some extra step im missing.........the part that start the car is the int-bmw2 and i know for a fact the brake wires are correct. Also i have test the ground while running feature (by pressing the brake when the car is started)

ignition goes from remote start to int-bmw2 to the evo-can and accessory goes from int-bmw2 to the remote start...

it says nothing about powering acc as iginition. i looked at the ealier model and it is pretty different.

OK, just a thought.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well fortin wont help me until i get the firmware upgraded to 4.02 instead of 4.00 so I guess ill put everything on hold :-( until i can get it upgraded or buy a new module

just ordered the update module since not one person in my state has it :-( should be here on friday or saturday. I guess ill start tucking a few wires and moving things around

Well i just flashed it and it seems to be doing the same exact thing :-(

im thinking h9 and h6 on the

H6 (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 1 input (12v Maybe.....)
H9 (+) Fused (30A) Accessory / Starter input (12v maybe......)

Always connect ALL the constant feeds as a mandatory unless in the specific install you know better.
Did you have to connect to the vehicle ACC? And if so did you connect it as ignition 2?
Earlier BMWs wouldn't R/S without the ACC being connected as an ignition.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

x2 power all 12v sources when in doubt

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Finally things are going right!!!!

looks like connecting h6 and h9 to 12v fixed the remote start :-)

also while flashing I noticed there was a option to flash the evo-can to d2d. so I did that and started cutting wires and now everything is working as it should with d2d.

the only difference is that you still need to connect white unlock wire to the blue unlock wire on the remote start (not the evo-can)

but if doing w2w my diagram is correct. ill be remaking it.

now the only problem i am having is this key wrap crap!!!! i can only do the remote start if I have the key right next to the key barrel.

so im about to go get some 24 gauge wire and see if i can fix that. im just happy I can use d2d and eliminate half of these wires.

Ted, I'll say this for you as well, you KNEW this was coming as well didn't you.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Am I not seeing things here but with the EVO-CAN why would you need a key wrap (which to me is guaranteed unreliable).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

im just following directions............it says on the evo can you have to wrap the key abd the key barrel. And right now its not working out too well lol.. hmmmmm

ok figured it out :-) I did realise you had to wrap the two wires then connect them, the diagram wasnt very clear lol. looks like everything is working as it should i think. will do more testing.

hey tedmond I have a quick question. you know the lock/unlock problem that you were talking about when using the keyfob........

is the problem when you lock the car with the alarm it just unlocks like a key is left on the seat,.......

precisely. If you lock with the aftermarket alarm, if the fob is close enough to the steering column, it will lock and unlock right after.

I suggested the valet key, but i have heard of people stashing the key far as they can away from the tumbler, and had no issues.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Why oh why do I have to keep repeating that hoary old line going back to 98 with the introduction of the E46 about "only using the valet key because of locking problems".
If people only listened this post would be about three pages shorter.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

correction to my previous statement.

precisely. If you lock with the aftermarket alarm, if the fob is close enough to the steering column, it will lock and unlock right after.

I suggested the valet key, but i have heard of people stashing the large factory key fob far as they can away from the tumbler, and had no issues.
by far away, the driver kick panel or towards the firewall.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Or place whole in a metal box and ground it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Or place whole in a metal box and ground it.

that's an option or DO what HOWIE suggested from day one, and noted on every bwm post you see on this forum. "USE THE VALET KEY FOR IMMOBILIZER BYPASS" posted_image

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

ok guys dang, i knew i would get flamed but wow!!! The only reason I didnt use the Valet key is because I dont have one!!! Im doing my best to not spend 60 dollars on a valet key

haha take it easy, we aren't flaming you. Just simply giving you our professional opinion.

remember a dealer cut key + program is 60.

if you go to a local lock smith, get an aftermarket key programmed and UNCUT, its only 25. it will work perfect for your application.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

ok ill have to go ahead and try that because i dont really need it cut.
Its weird because I actually was able to take the battery out the keyfob but right when the other wire is connected it always thinks the key is in the ignition when pressing the lock button.

I dont see how this would change with the valet key.....it doesnt make any sense........I have the key pretty far from the steerig column right now and it still does it

howie i guess i shouldve read your other posts

"This is starting to get repetitive so one more time!
Programme the Valet switch and use it!
On E46 type and onwards the key with the buttons is still "talking" (as I once found out even with its battery removed) one of the things it's saying is "the ignition key is still in the ignition, don't lock me!" "

sorry about that.......Ill go ahead and buy the valet key now :-(

did you wrap it as per instructions of the evo can?

you have to remember. The large fob contains more than just the immobilizer. It has keyless electronics, RFID chip for proximity, and tons of other stuff.

the valet is a metal key with immobilizer info, nothing else.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

yeah it works correctly and i can start the car it just wont lock the car when it is connected. From what you guys have said im pretty confident that the valet key will fix this. Thanks for all the help guys.

Now ill have to find a local key shop to make me a key

Look I've been there and done that with stripping an OEM key, even with the battery removed, as Ted says its still functioning, it works by induction.
You actually have 3 functions on the factory key:-
1) Lock and unlock (the internal battery).
2) Immobiliser control by the RFI chip.
3) Locking and unlocking either when it senses via data that the engine is running or because of your wrapped key it thinks the key is still in the ignition so it won't permit locking of the car.
#3 is still functioning even when the battery is removed and that's the reason you're having problems and why I keep going on about the bloody valet key.
By the way I thought of this 30 years ago with importing BMW body parts to the US but $60 for a valet key? It's $35 equivalent here.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No intention of hijacking this post, just a question I have about the int-bmw2 and since I found an active thread about it, I wanted to ask. I am going to be getting an e90 328i myself in the next week or two, and was looking at this module.

With leaving the key fob, or even the valet key in the car, doesnt it run the risk of someone just punching your window and being able to drive away with the Push to Start? I've installed remote start alarms before where you leave a key in(would always just cut off the key so it couldnt be used in ignition), but never on a PTS car. Am I missing something, or is it really that big a risk? Thanks

they would have to activate the relay that "completes" the circuit for the immobilizer.

the risk is minimal i would say.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Your villain would still need the programmed key to activate the ignition in the first place.
Please watch "Gone in 60 Seconds" or a recent "CSI New York" with a large pinch of salt.
It's almost impossible to steal a German car post 2005 without the correct key or a low-loader.
Unless you're from Eastern Europe with a pad/laptop/netbook and a large chunk of RFI conversion software.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I hate where I live so much!!!!! Seems like nobody in albuquerque will program bmw keys, just the dealer :-( im still searching though

went to the dealer and he is trying to say there is not a valet key for my model bimmer :-(............not sure what to do now

this is the sketchy way but it works if doneproperly. do your key wrap with the fob. when youre done, wrap the fob with aluminum foil shiney side inside.

try that. btw the bmw does have valet key. i've ordered many for various remote starter jobs

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

would you happen to know the part number?? id rather just do it the right way lol

Its just simply a Valet or mechanic key when i asked for it.
Sometimes they would give me a metal key "valet/mechanic" or the spare plastic key which will also work. The plastic "emergency" key is 10 dollars cheaper.

This is the part number i pulled off my documents when i worked on a few bmws. Part # 51218205313. I'm sure I did an E90 sometime with the same key.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

btw, i say sketchy because youre wrapping it with aluminum foil. It would be the same deal if you were to leave it connected previously, minus the foil.

give it a shot and see if it works, save yourself some bucks.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

ok guys I fixed it. One of my wires was off. the int-bmw2 and the evo-can require a wire to be hooked up to negative while running. I accidentally had to hooked to orange armed while running. I switched it to the blue negative status output and now everything works as it should

no wonder it wouldnt lock. you press lock the GWA activates = completes relay for the immobilizer, results in doors not locking.

good you got it working.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

No comment at this time, except I've won a £10 bet with myself that had I originally accused the OP of poor wiring I might have been flamed.
ALL BMW dealers stock this key, you usually get it with a new BMW.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

No comment at this time, except I've won a £10 bet with myself that had I originally accused the OP of poor wiring I might have been flamed.
ALL BMW dealers stock this key, you usually get it with a new BMW.

Hey hey hey just going to throw this out there. my first two post were pictures of how I was going to wire it and nobody said that it was wrong.......

but again thanks. Im going to write up a DIY for anyone using a d2d product with the evo-can and the int-bmw2

Benjimatt, I've done my silly bit, let me please give you a tip for future reference:-
Read the "crib" sheets many times over.
Do a check list next to the wiring, tick when you've done each colour.
Test each wire you identify, look at my signature line.
Verify everything before soldering.
Simple rules but they work.
If you can archive other installs on your vehicle from this site.
Try to identify problem areas, a prime example GM vehicles with 2 ACC wires.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

thanks again man

Here is the correct wiring for anyone that tries to do it with this vehicle.

[url]https://postimage.org/image/8ladbvm5f/full/[/url]

[url]https://www.picstation.net/show-image.php?id=d101a06cafafb4c02fea31608fc4fd9e[/url]

[url]https://uploadpic.org/v.php?img=Kn6V9bHpF2[/url]