2005 dodge ram 2 way alarm / remote start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130373
Printed Date: June 10, 2024 at 10:50 AM

Topic: 2005 dodge ram 2 way alarm / remote start

Posted By: stebob
Subject: 2005 dodge ram 2 way alarm / remote start
Date Posted: January 25, 2012 at 12:24 PM

I'm hoping someone can chime in on this one for me. I'm looking to install a 2-way alarm/remote start on a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500. I'm looking for unlock/lock, remote start, glass breakage, security. Not really looking for any more features outside of that. My truck has the factory "alarm" along with keyless entry and the gray key. I've been reading a lot of information and have become quite confused. Do I HAVE to use relays, diodes, and resistors, or will an Xpresskit, or other module, take care of all of that?

I'm looking at a Viper 5901 (or Clifford clone) or a Prestige SS9000. It seems if I use the 5901 and the Xpresskit DBALL I would NOT have to use external relays, ect, but every post I see on this topic for this vehicle says it does. Now the amount of relays, value of resistors, and diodes all varies from post to post. I guess my question is:

What all do I need to hook this up with the fewest wires, extra parts, as possible?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Replies:

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 25, 2012 at 1:14 PM

If you go with the DB-ALL you will have to either flash the firmware yourself (must have an XKLoader to do so) or it will have to be flashed for you. You are better off going with an idatalink ADS-AL SL CH. It will come pre-programmed to control the immobilizer through data (no key required), door locks, factory alarm, door status, tachometer, brake pedal, ebrake, and ignition status... which will make the installation a lot easier. You will have to go with a wire to wire installation (not data) but it is more reliable in wire to wire anyways.

I don't know that unit very well but if it has the parking light isolation option built in it will also eliminate the need for that relay as well. You will simply be able to put a resistor where the fuse jumper would normally be, and wire in the 2 parking light connections to either side of the factory parking light wire.

If you decide to go with a Compustar unit, and have someone with idatalink access, you can get the blade-al bypass which will do all of the above, but the bypass actually slides into the remote starter brain and makes for a few less connections and 1 less module to tuck away.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 25, 2012 at 3:32 PM

Thanks for the quick reply, offroad!

The idatalink looks pretty good to me. I have a couple questions with what you had said. You said that "pre-programmed to control the immobilizer through data (no key required), door locks, factory alarm, door status, tachometer, brake pedal, ebrake, and ignition status...", but then said I would have to go with a wire to wire install. Do you mean wire to wire to connect the idatalink box to the remote start/alarm and then it's data from the idatalink to the truck's OBD2 port?

I'm understanding all of this to mean that using this idatalink box I would NOT have to use additional relays and resistors, correct? The Type 3 wiring diagram for the idata box doesn't show anything additional is needed..except and SKIM Immobilizer module.

Ok, 3 questions. lol I assume since I would not have an RS232 port on the Viper, or similar system, that I could not use hte idatalink cable..thus the wires in red are required to be connected..I'm reading that correctly, right?

Thanks again!

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 25, 2012 at 3:56 PM

w2w indicates wires from the alarm/rs of your choice to the idatalink, and from the idatalink wires to the obd2.

the only additional relay is if you want defrost.
i havent seen a newer viper unit without the data dbi port. the red and black dotted lines must be conneted in w2w, and not required in datalink rs232 mode.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 26, 2012 at 8:35 AM

Excellent! I'm glad to hear I don't need to mess with all the additional relays. I could do it, I just didn't want to have to deal with all the extra trouble. I understand the W2W now.

Ok, I think I'm getting clear on this. I do have a couple of additional questions, if you guys don't mind.

1. Is the Viper data dbi port an RS232 connection? Do I can connect the 5901 directly to the idatalink directly with this connection, and not need W2W on all of that, right?

2. offroad recommended the ADS-AL SL CH. I checked the idatalink website and there are a bunch that "fit" my truck. Is this the one to use, or should I use another? I'm not second guessing offroad, just wondering why this particular one. The website isn't real clear on why this one would be the one.

Just trying to get a full understanding of this before I dive in. I appreciate all the help.

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 26, 2012 at 12:44 PM

Ok, so I'm more confused now. I keep reading on this forum that resistors are needed for the door lock/unlock. I thought this would be controlled through the data J1850 line to the OBD2 port. Why are these resistors needed if that's the case?

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 26, 2012 at 1:02 PM

the resistors are required if you only use an immobilizer bypass. You are using a databux bypass which esentially has the resistors built in (not literally, but thats basically how it works)

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 26, 2012 at 1:40 PM

Ahhh..ok. So I wonder why more people don't use the "all-in-one"? Seems it makes life a lot easier.

Man, I hate to say it, but I'm looking at the Viper 5901 install manual and the ADS-ALSO-CH install manual and really can't for sure determine what all wires connect to what. I'm also unsure what all wires I don't have to use on the 5901. The manual isn't clear on this. It seems I have to connect each and every wire.

I'm going to look into compustar alarm/rs, but I'm not being able to find install manuals for those...at least not yet..the search continues.

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 26, 2012 at 2:21 PM

yes the viper dbi port is an rs232 data connection. you can connect the viper to the idatalink directly, but you must obtain the correct firmware for the idatalink (DBI-al-ca) for example. if you prefer data, you are not required to connect the red and black-dotted lines.

there are 3 series to idatalink. solo, multi, and blade. i did not include their flex because not too many people use it. the solo is great if you're a DIYer the solo is a preflashed module so you dont have to worry about firmware/compatibility issues. the multi is what most installers prefer using. its one module that can be used for immobilizer or databus/can/immobilizer. this is the "all-in-one" module that we, as installers flash specific firmware onto for the vehicle we are working on. With that being said, you need the idatalink ads-usb to update these modules.

last but not least, idatalink BLADE. These are only compatible with select brands out there, but they are exclusive to compustar. They slide into the backside of the compustar brain, making less wires to connect, and a much cleaner install. this requires you to use a compustar, idatalink ads-usb, and an account registered for weblink/compustar (dealer access only)

as far as the resistors, they are only required if you are not using an "interface" module. that requires physical connections to the car. when using an interface module such as an idatalink piece, the firmware flashed on the unit tells it to send a pulse with a certain resistance, similar if you had a resistor inline.

hope that explains everything.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 26, 2012 at 6:44 PM

Ok, it's coming together for me now. Thanks for all the help guys!

So I guess my next dilemma is going to get the idatatlink flashed. I understand if I buy from Lessco Electronics they will flash it for me for like $5. I just have to hope they do it right for me. Any thoughts on that?

For some reason I like the Viper most. No experience with any of them so perhaps I going in a little ignorant. Ok, I def am, but the Viper does get good reviews and seems used here alot.

Now, I'm assuming the idatatlink helps only with whats listed and the wires you would w2w to it. After looking at the Viper install and the idatalink install , I'm not sure what wire from the Viper connects to the GWR blue/white on the ilink.

Also, I'm not sure about the light flashing relay and parking light control. The wiring for my truck says to use a 590omh resistor for the light flash relay if it is to be isolated. I assumeit does and I connect it as so.

I'm trying to lay out the wiring completely so I know what attaches to what and get it completely mapped out vefore I even start. Have a schematic ready to go ahead of time kinda thing.

Obviously I'm no installer, but try to be a diyer and think I have some ability, but never dealt with one thses before and I admit is a bit overwhelming. With that said I truly do appreciate all the help and input.

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 26, 2012 at 6:50 PM

The GWR wire will connect to the (-)200ma status output of the Viper (small blue wire). If I'm not mistaking, that model Viper will have a white parking light output and a WHITE/ brown parking light input. It has a relay built into the unit and makes it easier. You can then put the resistor between the 2 jumpers on the brain for (-) parking lights. Just make sure to get it in there tightly. Then simply cut the parking light wire, connect the white to the vehicle side and the WHITE/ brown to the switch side.

Make sure that you test everything. Don't just assume that a wire diagram is correct. And make sure to isolate the parking light wire. If you do not, it is very easy to damage the factory switch.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 27, 2012 at 8:23 AM

Ok, great, thanks!

Noted: will test everything before connection. Glad you mentioned it or I would have assumed..

You are correct, it has a WHITE/ brown and white for the light flash relay. I will connect the parking lights to it from the switch. The manual was a littel confusing to distinguis between what to do with the WHITE/ brown and white. Now I get it.

It appears I will not need to use the H2 auxillary 8 pin harness at all. Unless there is something I'm missing? I don't want to connect the horn and don't think I need the factory arm/disarm for any reason. Unless I'm missing something...?

I don't need to connect to the door trigger + input on the Viper as the ilink has the (-) door trigger output on the yellow/black wire.

I figure where I am now it determining what wires I do NOT have to connect. When knowing all wires that must be connected, I should be able to figure from there. At least for hte most part. :)

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 27, 2012 at 9:06 AM

You can check if the vehicle has a factory alarm (and thus if you require the factory alarm connections). Open the driver side window, lock the door with the factory remote *Make sure to press the lock button at least 3 times to ensure that any alarm was armed because some systems require 2 presses of lock to arm the security. Let the vehicle sit for at least 2 minutes and then reach in and open the door. If the horn/alarm goes off then you will need to connect the factory alarm wires.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 27, 2012 at 10:37 AM

Ah, yes, I have factory alarm.

So now my uncertainty sets in when looking at the ilink wiring. It's shows "lock/arm (-) input GREEN/ black", and then "disarm (-) input brown". I took this to mean arm/disarm for the Viper, not the factory alarm. This wiring in the ilink manual is part of the "data" w2w wiring.

To futher confuse me, the dodge truck wiring states " Factory Alarm Arm PURPLE / lt. blue - driver kick, door harness
Notes: This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 644 ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 1565 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays."

With that said, perhaps the ilink handles the arm/disarm for the factory alarm and I don't need to touch the (-) 200mA factory arm and disarm output wiring on the Viper?

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 27, 2012 at 10:43 AM

What I'm saying is with the w2w connection for the lock/arm (-) input is already connected to the Viper green wire for (-) lock (+) unlock output...as the ilink indicats it's the same wire (GREEN/ black) So, I still need to connec the ilink "disarm (-) input brown" to the (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output" on the Viper. I only need to connect that one wire in the H2 Aux 8 pin harness.

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 27, 2012 at 10:47 AM

the idatalink will handle disarm for you. just connect lock wires from the viper to the idatalink.

no need for diarm input (unless it say to use it)

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 27, 2012 at 11:13 AM

Yes, ted is correct (as usual.. haha). I was not looking at the bypass information and forgot that it controls your arm/disarm.

But Ted, maybe I'm wrong on this, but wouldn't you want to connect the arm/disarm wires between the r/s and the bypass or is the bypass programmed to automatically disarm when remote started (thus not needing a w2w disarm)? I was out of the game so long I'm still learning how these new bypasses work... haha.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 27, 2012 at 12:27 PM

Well, it appears the ilink is wanting the disarm wire connected. It's a dotted line from the ilink to the RS. The disarm is a spearate wire only labeled disarm (brown) on the ilink, but the arm is also lock. So..if I do w2w it appears the brown wire would need to be connected. Kinda sucks as it appears the only wire on the 8 pin Aux H2 harness will be the factory disarm wire (light GREEN/ black).

I'm really starting to think the the rs232 data connection between the RS and ilink is the way to go...

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 27, 2012 at 5:43 PM

Connect. Lock unlock and disarm to the I datalink. Most bypass modules will disarm when it senses ground when running. As mentioned if it asks for a disarm wire input, then use it. If not usually it will bypass by data or keysense

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 8:32 AM

Well it doesn't really ask for it, but it is shown with dotted lines to the RS. If I just use the D2D it'll be covered. I think the D2D will make this a lot easier. I think that'll be my plan. Hopefully that communicates nice and smooth for me.

I think I have the rest of the wiring figured out and ready to go. Assuming wire colors at this point, of course, I can verify once I start the install.

I was hoping I could throw out my wiring connections and ask you guys to check it out just to make sure I'm correct. That something you guys would be willing to do? If cool with you, I'll post it up along with the truck wiring off this site.

Thanks again for all the help. I know it's frustrating to answer such basic questions.

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 11:47 AM

for the extra 10min spent on w2w, it might save you headaches down the road caused by d2d. just my .2 cents.

might as well post and we can check.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 1:31 PM

Yeah, I hear ya on the W2W. I'll give the D2D a try and see how it goes. Here is what I have:

Viper H1 Primary Harness:

1. RED / White 200ma trunk release - D2D (W2W RED / White idatalink, but not needed)
2. Red - 12V Contant ran from battery
3. Brown Siren Output - To siren
4. WHITE/ Brown Light Flash Iso - 590ohm resistor -WHITE/ Light Green parking lights at switch cut in 2.
5. Ground - Ground
6. Voilet + door trigger input - N/C
7. Blue trunk pin/instant trigger - N/C
8. Green (-) door trigger intput - D2D - (W2W Yellow/Black idatalink)
9. BLACK/ White dome light output - relay with yellow/light blue or yellow/orange in truck (must determine which)
10. WHITE/ Blue (-) remote start / turbo timer - N/C
11. White Parking light output - WHITE/ light green (other side of cut wire from parking light switch as #4)
12. Orange (-)500ma ground when armed - N/C

Viper Aux Harness 8 Pin:

1. Light Green / Black (-)200ma factory alarm disarm output - D2D (W2W - Brown idatalink)
2. Light Green / White 200ma Factory alarm arm output - N/C
3. White / Violet aux 1 out - N/C
4. Violet / Black aux 2 out - N/C
5. White / Black aux 3 out - N/C
6. Light Blue 2 unlock out - N/C
7. Gray / Black diesel wait to start - N/C
8. Brown / Black horn honk - N/C

Viper Heavy Gauge 10 Pin:

1. Pink IGN 1 input / output - Pink / White (Truck)
2. Red / White + Fused IGN 2 / flex relay in - 12V constant
3. Orange Accessory ouput - Dark Blue or Pink Yellow (Truck)
4. Violet starter output - Yellow (truck, truck side)
5. Green starter input - Yellow (truck, key side)
6. Red + fused 30amp IGN 1 input - 12V constant
7. Pink / White IGN 2 / Flex relay output - Pink/ LIght Green (truck)
8. Pink / Black flex relay input key side - N/C
9. Red / Black + fused 30amp accessory/starter input - 12V constant
10. N/C

Viper Remote Start 5 Pin:

1. Black / White neutral safety switch input - Ground
2. Violet / White tach input - D2D (W2W purple / white idatalink)
3. Brown + brake shutdown input - D2D (W2W gray / red)
4. Gray hood pin - Hood pin after located and mounted
5. Blue / white 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger - N/C

Viper remote start aux out 5 pin:

1. Pink / white flex relay control out - N/C
2. Orange access out - N/C
3. Violet starter output - N/C
4. Pink IGN 1 output - N/C
5. Blue status output - D2D (W2W - Blue / Whate - GWR idatalink)

Viper Door Lock 3 pin:

1. Blue + lock - unlock output - D2D (W2W blue / black idatalink)
2. N/C
3. Green - lock + unlock output - D2D (W2W green / black idatalink)

Idatalink:

White / Black - Pin 4 SKIM (SKIM side)
White / Red - Pin 4 SKIM (idatalink side)
Yellow analog out put - Purple / Light Blue (truck door lock with diode..in kick panel)
Orange / Black - Ground due to OEM alarm present
Orange - Pin 2 SKIM module (J1850)
Pink Ignition + input - Pin 4 SKIM (idatalink side)

idatalink ADS-ALSL Ch6 Installation Manual

https://store.idatalink.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=154

Viper 5901 Installaion Manual:

https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N5702V_2008_08web.pdf

TRUCK WIRING:

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - DODGE / RAM PICKUP / 2005 / Remote Start

12volts red (40A), red (40A)   +   ignition harness
Starter yellow   +   ignition harness
Second Starter N/A
Ignition pink/white   +   ignition harness
Second Ignition pink/lt. green   +   ignition harness
Third Ignition pink / YELLOW (10 AWG)(3rd acc)   +   ignition harness
Notes: This wire is not required for remote start. It only provides power to the power window circuit.
Accessory dk. blue and pink/yel (16 AWG) +   ignition harness
Second Accessory pink / YELLOW (14 AWG)   +   ignition harness
Keysense PURPLE / tan   -   ignition harness
Power Lock PURPLE / dk. green   -   driver kick, door harness
Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru an 820 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.
Power Unlock same as power lock wire
Lock Motor lt. green   5wi driver kick, door harness
Unlock Motor tan/lt. green   5wi driver kick, door harness
Parking Lights+ WHITE/ yel (L), WHITE/ gray (R)   +   harness at top of driver fender
Parking Lights- WHITE/ lt. green   -   headlight switch
Notes: Parking lights are negative trigger thru a 590 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay.
Hazards WHITE/ orange   -   hazard switch
Notes: Hazards are negative trigger thru a 120 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay.
Turn Signal(L) use hazards wire
Turn Signal(R) use hazards wire
Reverse Light WHITE/ lt. green   +   inside mirror or plug by PCM
Notes: The PCM is on the passenger side firewall.
Door Trigger see notes   -   see notes
Notes: The driver door trigger is purple and the driver side rear door is PURPLE / orange. These wires are in the driver kick panel. The passenger door trigger is PURPLE / white and the passenger side rear door is purple / YELLOW. These wires are in the passenger kick panel. Use all four wires and diode isolate each. See DirectFax document 1076 for wiring information.
Dome Supervision yellow/lt. blue or yellow/org   +   driver A pillar or cluster
Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm PURPLE / lt. blue   -   driver kick, door harness
Notes: This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 644 ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 1565 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.
Factory Alarm Disarm same as factory alarm arm wire
Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm
Tachometer dk. blue/gray   ac   PCM, orange plug, pin 34
Notes: The PCM is on the passenger side firewall.

On SRT-10 models, the tach wire is in the black plug, pin 18.

On diesel models, the tach wire is at the ECM on the lower driver side of the engine, 60 pin plug, pin 24, or at the camshaft position sensor just left of the ECM, in a 3 pin plug.

On gas models, can also go to any ignition coil or fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT BROWN / white.
Wait to start see DirectFax document 1091
Brake Wire WHITE/ tan   +   brake pedal switch
Parking Brake dk. GREEN / WHITE   -   parking brake switch
Horn Trigger dk. GREEN/ purple   -   horn switch
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Sentry Key Part #: 555C, 556U, or 555U
Notes: Only vehicles with gray keys have the immobilizer.

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 5:38 PM

At quick look I found a few corrections you need to make.
1) The WHITE/ brown wire will go directly to the switch side of your cut parking light wire... not through the resistor. All this wire does is to disconnect the factory parking light wire to prevent backfeed to the switch.
2) White will go to the vehicle side of the cut parking light wire. The resistor needs to go in thhe fuse jumper for (-) parking lights. If you put it on the actual white wire you will have factory light issues because you will be running both the factory resistance as well as the added resistance through the new resistor. So the new resistor HAS to go in the fuse jumper.
3) How you want to do tach is up to you. I've had good luck so far with the ADS tach signal, but if you want 100% reliability and not have to worry about it, you can connect the tach directly to the vehicle.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 5:52 PM

Thanks, offeoad!

I appreciate the clarification. How you stated is exactly how I understood the parking lights to be connected. Rereading it I see how I was unclear.

Noted on the tach. I'll try it via the ilink and see what happens.

Soo..aside from those points, I got 'er, huh?!

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 6:03 PM

The only other thing I see is that you will need a relay to power the 2nd accessory wire (the flex relay pink/white will go to the 2nd ignition).

Pick up a standard 30a/40a 4-pin relay and wire as follows:
Pin 85 - (-)200ma 2nd Accessory output (from remote start relay harness)
Pin 86 - 12v constant fused
Pin 87 - 12v constant fused (30amp)
Pin 30 - 2nd accessory wire.

You can also use a 5-pin relay but if you do make sure to connect pins 87 and 30 exactly as above so you don't have to worry about the center pin resting at 12v and take the risk (extremely minimal risk, but anything can happen) of shorting it out.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 7:22 PM

Oh, didnt realize that on the pink/white. Is it ok to jump 86 and 87 together?

A constant 12v feed question I have. I though I would run 10ga wire from the battery with a 60amp fuse up by the battery. I thought I would use tgis as my primary feed and connect all 12v constants to this feed. Sound reasonable?

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 7:27 PM

Guess I really need 8 ga for 60 amps and that might just be a bit too small. Not sure I can fit another 4ga into my cab...easily anyway.

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 8:03 PM

Even 10awgfor is overkill. 30amps is be plenty and you can run a 12awg and be perfectly fine to connect all constants to that wire.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 8:06 PM

10 gauge should be more than sufficient. i usually use 12 gauge and fuse it at 30 amps. true 12gauge can handle up to 40 amps

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 9:01 PM

Cool! I'll throw a 10ga at it and be happy. :)

So, on that relay...jumping 86 and 87 toghether and running a constant to one of them is fine, right?

You guys have been a tremendous help. Once again, THANKS!

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 30, 2012 at 9:23 PM

remember, most companies cheap out on the copper. if you use 10gauge its probably going to be a 10gauge jacket, with 12-14 gauge amount of copper. fuse accordingly

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: January 31, 2012 at 7:26 AM

yeah, you're not kidding on that! Will do.

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: February 01, 2012 at 7:32 AM

Ok, guys, just for my understanding..can you explain why a relay is needed for the Pink/White for Ign 2 flex relay? The Viper manual doesn't state anything about being 200mA and just goes on to say "thie wire is ffactory programmed as Ignition 2 and can be programmed as a 2nd accessory or as a 2nd starter". It doesn't mention anyting about an external relay being needed.

Not that I don't believe you! I'm wondering why. :)

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: February 01, 2012 at 8:23 AM

You need the relay because you have both a 2nd Ignition as well as a 2nd Accessory according to the information you posted. There is a good possibility that the 2nd Accessory is only for powering the radio, etc and is not required for remote start, but without an actual schematic for the truck, or someone who knows for sure it is not required, I prefer to connect all ignition, accessory, and starter wires that are listed on a wire diagram. A $4-$5 relay and 5 extra minutes is worth it to me to help prevent possibly thousands in damages (ie many chevy trucks that can have transmission failure if the 2nd ignition is not powered).

The pink/white can only power one of the 2 additional circuits (2nd ignition & 2nd accessory) so the relay is required to power the other additional circuit.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: February 01, 2012 at 9:19 AM

Ok, I get it. The 2nd ign power the 2nd accessory in the truck.

I think I was going to wire that up incorrectly since there is no "2nd accessory output" on the RS harness. I was going to connect the RS Pink / White Ign 2 flex output to the truck's Pink / Light Green Ign 2 wire (pin 30 on added relay). From what you stated I'm thinking that it should connect to the truck's Pink / Yellow 14ga Accessory 2 wire (pin 30 on added relay). If that's the case, I'm not clear on what to connect from the RS to the truck's Pink / Light Green 2nd Ign wire.

Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: February 01, 2012 at 11:01 AM

The Pink/White off the r/s will go to your 2nd ignition wire on the truck. The 2nd accessory wire on the truck gets connected through a relay as follows:
Pin 85 - (-)200ma 2nd accessory output
Pin 86 - 12v constant fused
Pin 87 - 12v constant fused
Pin 30 - 2nd Accessory wire in truck.

The (-) 200ma 2nd accessory output is the orange wire in this harness:

Viper remote start aux out 5 pin:

1. Pink / white flex relay control out - N/C
2. Orange access out - N/C
3. Violet starter output - N/C
4. Pink IGN 1 output - N/C
5. Blue status output - D2D (W2W - Blue / Whate - GWR idatalink)

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Posted By: stebob
Date Posted: February 01, 2012 at 1:08 PM

Oh, man, I must have completely misread that from the 1st time you said it. It's very clear now. Although I would have still been looking for a 2nd accessory output not even thinking of using one off the aux harness. Makes sense.

I think I've got this thing nailed down pretty good. Thanks for all the help! I've learned a lot about this. Once I get it all installed I'll post back with how she's doing. Hopefully perfectly from the time everything gets power. :)