2009 civic, 4113l, door lock problem

Background:

I'm from the Philippines and the key transmitter on our local 2009 civic only has the Lock and Unlock buttons. NO panic and trunk release buttons. Another notable difference is that when we press the lock button of our key transmitter, the doors lock and the factory security alarm arms at the same time, this is unlike the US version of the civic that has a second press of the lock button to arm the security alarm.

Now here's my predicament:

I have successfully installed an Avital 4113L Remote Start Module and PKH34 Transponder bypass kit via w2w (D2D doesn't seem to work for me). I have hooked up the factory alarm disarm wire of the 4113L unit to the Unlock wire of the driver's door key cylinder.

Now whenever I trigger the remote start, the 4113L disarms the factory alarm which unlocks my doors at the same time.

My problem is how can I disarm the factory alarm without having to unlock the doors or how can I program the 4113L to re-Lock the doors after the remote start activates.

Not sure if your car will have it but :

Factory Alarm Disarm     Brown  (-)        driver kick, door harness, white 18 pin plug, pin 7

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Soldering is fun!

If you do not have that wire, and the remote start has the option, you can turn SafeStart on which will automatically lock the doors after remote starting.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Hi kreg357,

I connected the 4113L factory alarm disarm wire to the rear of the underdash fuse box, connector T (34P) pin #31.. it's a Brown(-) wire that leads to the unlock switch of the driver's door key cylinder. Is this wire different from what you're referring to?

offroadzj wrote:

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If you do not have that wire, and the remote start has the option, you can turn SafeStart on which will automatically lock the doors after remote starting.

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Sorry but I don't see any SafeStart option on the installation guide of the Avital 4113L.

Are you planning on using the defogger output? If not, and the unit doesn't have a temperature shut down on the defogger output you can connect it to the lock/arm and set it for pulse. It will send a (-) pulse approx. 15 seconds after remote starting.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Are you planning on using the defogger output? If not, and the unit doesn't have a temperature shut down on the defogger output you can connect it to the lock/arm and set it for pulse. It will send a (-) pulse approx. 15 seconds after remote starting.

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I want to consider that option as a last resort since according to the install guide, it can send a pulse 10sec after remote starting. And there's no option to change the 10s delay.

It's that 10sec window that I'm worried about, I prefer something more immediate if not instant. But that's a very good suggestion, I really appreciate it.

you should connect unlock to the unlock wire in the car.

and disarm to the disarm wire. the disarm wire is a small brown gauge wire.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

That is a last resort, but its always an option; as long as the defrost is functional at all temperatures. Some newer units have a temperature shut down of the defroster circuit. However, according to Directwire, the factory disarm wire should not unlock the doors. Make sure the programming options are not set to unlock before starting.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Use the (-)crank output from the 4113 with a diode to your lock wire and it will relock the doors upon crank.
,,,

tedmond wrote:

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you should connect unlock to the unlock wire in the car.

and disarm to the disarm wire. the disarm wire is a small brown gauge wire.

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Yes I did. The unlock wire is connected to the unlock wire of the power doorlock switch while the disarm wire is connected to the unlock wire of the door key cylinder.

offroadzj wrote:

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That is a last resort, but its always an option; as long as the defrost is functional at all temperatures. Some newer units have a temperature shut down of the defroster circuit. However, according to Directwire, the factory disarm wire should not unlock the doors. Make sure the programming options are not set to unlock before starting.

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I believe it's not the 4113L that unlocks my doors but the factory security system itself. When it senses the ground signal on the unlock wire of the door key cylinder, the factory security system sends an unlock signal to the power doorlock switch.

Just as I initially posted, our local civics here in the Philippines doesn't have that second press on the transmitter to arm the factory alarm. The factory system locks and arms at the same time and therefore disarms and unlocks the doors at the same time as well.

I also have an issue on programming the Factory Alarm Disarm Option, according to the installation guide, there's only 2 options:

1. with unlock
2. Before unlock, remote start only

But when I tried to cycle through the options during programming, I noticed the led blinks once, twice and thrice.. so there's seems to be a third option..

But anyways, I have already tested all three options and still get the same results.

Mark Mizenko wrote:

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Use the (-)crank output from the 4113 with a diode to your lock wire and it will relock the doors upon crank.
,,,

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I'm not sure where to find or which wire is that (-)crank output and what diode to use. I'd appreciate if you can elaborate further.

However, there's this 4-pin Satellite Harness that wasn't discussed in the installation guide:

1. Blue (-) status output = I connected this to the PKH34 brown status wire (w2w).
2. Orange (-) Accessory output = not connected to anything
3. Purple (-) Starter output = not connected to anything also
4. Pink (-) Ignition output = not connected to anything as well

I understand that I only need a (-)pulse to the lock wire to relock my doors, will I be able to get any from the available wires above?

The (-) crank is the Purple (-) starter output. As far as the programming options, the second option doesn't make sense at all. If it is on remote start only, then it shouldn't also send before unlock. Either way, it won't hurt anything to try each one and see if you find one that works. Just make sure you are definitely in the correct menu and option (confirm light flashes)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

if you went into the driver door for disarm, make sure you diode isolated the disarm to the unlock wire.

i think this is why you have a problem

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

offroadzj wrote:

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The (-) crank is the Purple (-) starter output. As far as the programming options, the second option doesn't make sense at all. If it is on remote start only, then it shouldn't also send before unlock. Either way, it won't hurt anything to try each one and see if you find one that works. Just make sure you are definitely in the correct menu and option (confirm light flashes)

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Went through this option, connected the purple (-) starter output to the lock wire and it works. Thanks for the advice.

tedmond wrote:

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if you went into the driver door for disarm, make sure you diode isolated the disarm to the unlock wire.

i think this is why you have a problem

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I'm assuming that you're referring to the door lock actuator itself? I used the unlock wire from the door key cylinder and not on the actuators.

One good thing though, When I stop the engine using the 4113L remote, the engine shuts off, rearms the factory alarm and relocks all my doors. I believe most will only experience their factory alarm rearm but doors will not lock after the shutdown.



Thanks for all your help guys, I really really appreciate it.

MAKE SURE you have a diode on that purple - crank output wire!   A small isolation diode works fine, and you NEED one on that wire, or the lock wire will feed back into the remote starter.

IN004 diode from radioshak?

Mark Mizenko wrote:

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MAKE SURE you have a diode on that purple - crank output wire!   A small isolation diode works fine, and you NEED one on that wire, or the lock wire will feed back into the remote starter.

IN004 diode from radioshak?

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It doesn't always do it. I've seen some where it does and others it doesn't. It's a good idea to always throw a diode in there.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

depending on the brain, some if not most brains have a diode already on the output.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert