2007 toyota sienna car starter

dos 2007 toyota Sienna CE 3.5l V6 have a TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM

Yes

x2 yes it does.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

im installing a prestige AP901C car starter on a
2007 toyota Sienna CE 3.5l V6

Is there a question you're asking ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

and need help with finding parking light flasher which is GREEN/ black but their are two of them.

where to plug the tachometer it said it is located behind the glove box could not find it.

also do i need to install the 4 pin auxiliary output harness

How are you testing for you're parking light and tach ?


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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

well that's the thing i don't know where the tach is and the flasher i have a tool where if their is current the bulb turns on

I would suggest getting you're self a decent multimeter to avoid burning up things. Then from there I can tell you how to test

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

i am installing a car starter on a 2007 Toyota Sienna CE 3.5l V6 an i could not find out where to plug the tachometer it said it is located behind the glove box on a ECM but could not find it.

You have a nice van.  Improperly installed remote starters can cause expensive repairs. 

It is best to use a Digital Multi Meter to locate and verify all connections.  Another place to get the Tach signal is at the OBD2 diagnostics connector under the drivers dash.  It is usually a Black wire ( but not always ) at Pin 9.  Verify this signal with a DMM set to 20V AC, Black lead to chassis ground and Red lead to the wire at Pin 9.  You should get a reading between 1 and 6 volts that rises slightly with RPMs.  Here is a picture of the OBD2 connector from a Yaris. (  The wire is at Pin 9 but not Black )

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Soldering is fun!

As a point of interest, the APS901C is a remote start system only and does not include keyless entry.  

Once remote started, the Toyota Sienna's factory FOB's are disabled and will not be able to unlock the doors. 

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Soldering is fun!

the tach is most accessible at the OBD plug as Kreg mentioned.

the wire is BLACK/ orange if i remember correctly. It could be yellow as well.

another good point kregs pointed out, you might want to look for a start/keyless entry unit.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

kreg357 wrote:

---

As a point of interest, the APS901C is a remote start system only and does not include keyless entry.  

Once remote started, the Toyota Sienna's factory FOB's are disabled and will not be able to unlock the doors. 

---

The 901 does unlock the doors also. By holding the single button down for 5 seconds it will pulse the BLACK/ blue whenever the RS is on, giving the owner a way to unlock without a key. We always connect this on cars that have an inactive remote when running.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

i am installing a car starter on a 2007 Toyota Sienna CE 3.5l V6 an i could not find out where to plug the tachometer it said it is located behind the glove box on a ECM but could not find it.

would you mind giving me more details on where to connect that wire

Here is another, perhaps easier, place to get the Tach Signal......

kreg357 wrote:

---

You have a nice van.  Improperly installed remote starters can cause expensive repairs. 

It is best to use a Digital Multi Meter to locate and verify all connections.  Another place to get the Tach signal is at the OBD2 diagnostics connector under the drivers dash.  It is usually a Black wire ( but not always ) at Pin 9.  Verify this signal with a DMM set to 20V AC, Black lead to chassis ground and Red lead to the wire at Pin 9.  You should get a reading between 1 and 6 volts that rises slightly with RPMs.  Here is a picture of the OBD2 connector from a Yaris. (  The wire is at Pin 9 but not Black )

---

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Soldering is fun!

Here are some pictures of the Tach wire in a 2005 Toyota Sienna.

This is the BLACK/ Orange Tach wire in the OBD2 connector.

Here is a picture of the ECM behind the glove box.

The Tach wire is in the top connector.  Here is a close-up.

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Soldering is fun!

thanks a lot

ok so i connected the the wire for tach to the BLACK/ Orange Tach wire in the OBD2 connector. and when i when't to program it, i could not program it, i tried it multiple off times it still didn't program it, its a prestige AP901C remote starter

Try the BLACK/ Orange wire at the ECM, top plug, Pin 5.  Audiovox lists the Tach wire as GreenRed @ same plug and pin.  Removing the glove box is pretty easy.  As shown in the picture. it's right next to the Cabin Air Filter access panel.

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Soldering is fun!

Oleg, here is my experience with the 2004-2010 Sienna:

---I've never found the tach wire at the OBDII diagnostic port. I see that other posters here are showing pics of it, and I hate to contradict them, but I'm 99.9% sure it's not there on your generation of Sienna.

---The picture kreg357 shows at the ECM is accurate as far as I can remember.

What I do is I open both glove boxes (upper and lower), and then you can actually just grab the upper glove box with your hands and it pulls straight out. No screws; it just unclips when you pull on it.

Then you can look in there, look down and a bit to the right, and there's the ECM. Just like kreg's picture, look for the cabin air filter first, and then go to the right of that.

It should be the only BLACK/ orange wire in the top plug at the ECM.

Besides all that though.......

How has the rest of your installation worked out? Do you feel sure that everything else is hooked up right?

If you want to hook up tach, that's a good thing; the remote starter will work more accurately with it connected. However, the APS901C also works pretty well in Voltage Sensing mode, and even if you don't want to keep voltage sensing forever, it's a very useful troubleshooting tool in any case.

Go into the programming menu and change the following:
---Change the Voltage/Tach/DBI Tach/Hybrid setting from Tach (Default) to Voltage.
---Change the Voltage Level setting to whatever the non-default setting is. I think default is "greater than 0.5 volts;" you want to change it to "less than 0.5 volts."

After you've done that, just try using the remote starter without the tachometer connection and see if it works.

If it works like that, good, at least you know the rest of your installation is good. You can leave it like that and it should work fine forever, but you can still keep trying to find a good tach signal if you want.

However, if it doesn't work, then you know something is wrong with the rest of your installation; it will need for you to troubleshoot and fix it before even worrying about tach at all.

Chris Luongo i did how you told me by changing it from tach to voltage mode and
and voltage level its "less than 0.5 volts"
also for Crank Averaging its on present because it didn't start with averaging

so when i started it starts and runs for maby 5 to 10 seconds and then stops any idea why


and with the tach at ECM top plug pin # 5
i tried both of the wire the BLACK/ orange and with the pin 5 wire could not program it
here the pic how it looks

They're giving you the TACH info for a 2005 sienna. 2007 Sienna TACH is the second plug down from the top, Pin 1. You can see it in the picture you posted. It's in the next plug down in your picture. In that plug, there are only 2 wires in the column all the way to the left. Its the upper wire of the 2 and of course its BLACK/ orange

thanks, but anyone has any idea why with voltage mode it stops running, also i started it without any transponder bypass, could that be the reason why it shots off?

Sometimes some cars just don't work with voltage, then you have to use a tach signal. I believe that not all Sienna's have transponder keys, so no bypass is needed. Look for security light flashing, it only flashes when there is no key in the ignition cylinder. check the gauge area as well as around the radio/climate control area. You can also wrap the factory key head with aluminum foil. This will block the transponder signal if there is one. If the car starts with the foil around the key head, then there is no transponder. If it doesn't start then there is a transponder.

Check for this 7 Pin connector at the ignition cylinder.  This is from a 2005, but should be the same if you have a transponder immobilizer.

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Soldering is fun!

oleg4, something has got to be wrong with the "bones" of your installation. We installers have lots of debate about the reliability of voltage sensing, but even its worst critics would admit that it works at least in the short term.

Installers in favor of always connecting a tach wire just don't want to see the customer return in the future with intermittent problems, such as when the weather changes, or the car gets old or out of tune.

Repeat: Maybe you should or shouldn't leave the system in voltage sensing mode forever. But voltage sensing should definitely work in the short term. That's why I say it's a good troubleshooting tool.

What you want to do is basically strip your install down to the basics. For the remote starter to work, you don't need hoodpin, brake, parking lights, locks, tach, or even transponder bypass.......make sense? Just get the thing to start first, and then worry about the rest.

So basically you should (temporarily) have it like this:
---Voltage sensing mode, with tach not hooked up.
---Whatever you used for a transponder bypass should be unpluggeed or disconnected, and just leave your existing good key in the ignition (but in the off position) for now.
---Unplug the 4-pin connector that does the locks, just for the hell of it. If you're really worried, you can even temporarily disconnect your parking lights and brake....you don't need those during testing.

Make sense? Strip it right down to the basics: All you really need is ground, antenna, and the ignition connections. That should be enough to just start the car. That's all you want to accomplish at this point---just get the car to start. Worry about all the details afterward.

If you do the two things above, you've (temporarily) ruled out tach and transponder as possible trouble spots. If the rest of the install is good, the remote starter should work. If the remote starter doesn't work, troubleshoot and fix whatever is wrong before worrying about transponder and/or tach.

You said it starts and stops running. If you have any more information, it would be good. How long does the car run for when it remote starts? Do the climate controls work during this brief time? Any strange warning lights on the dash?

Also, when the remote starter fails, if you leave it alone, does it try again, or stop forever? The reason I ask is this: If the remote starter senses a problem with voltage or tach signal, it'll make two more attempts. If it "sees" the brake lights coming on or the hood being raised, it'll shut off and stay off. Also, in the second programming table for the APS901C, it should have a "diagnostics" setting. Try to use that and figure out the reason for the thing shutting down.

How are your ignition connections wired? When you said that crank averaging didn't work, and you had to put the unit on pre-set time, that's a warning sign right there. The unit "watches" the yellow wire, and when you turn the ignition on (powering up the Prestige's blue wire) and then turn the key to the Start position, it monitors the yellow wire to see how long it stays energized for. So, it's likely/possible that either the blue and/or yellow wires are in the wrong place. I'd start right there at the ignition switch.

You should have the following connections:

Toyota WHITE/ red constant: red and RED / white of Prestige

Toyota WHITE/ blue constant: This wire is only 7.5 amps; I wouldn't use it for anything at all.

Toyota black ignition: blue wire of Prestige. IMPORTRANT: This blue wire not only powers up the car during remote start, but it also serves as an input to the Prestige for programming functions, as well as letting the unit "know" to "watch" the yellow for crank averaging. P.S. The Toyota black wire is what turns on the ignition in the car to let the engine start.

Toyota small BLACK / YELLOW second ignition: connect to green Prestige Ignition 2. Be SURE to NOT change the default in programming. Don't change it to "as accessory" or "off during crank;" leave it on "as ignition."
P.S. This wire in the Toyota powers up the climate controls, as well as a bunch of other stuff. If you didn't connect it at all, the remote starter would work, but it wouldn't run the heater and you'd have all kinds of crazy warning lights on.

Toyota pink accessory: On my installations, I don't hook this up at all, but you'd put it to the purple Prestige accessory output.
P.S. The Toyota pink supplies power to the radio, power mirrors, cigarette lighters, and some other non-essential items. I leave it disconnected so the radio stays quiet during remote start, but go ahead and feel free to hook it up if you want to.

Comments about the above wires:

---It's important to note that there are two BLACK / YELLOWs: One's an ignition, and ones a starter. Make sure you test these wires so you don't hook them up backwards from the remote starter.

---The two main ignition wires, the black and the small BLACK / YELLOW, it really doesn't matter much which goes to the blue and which goes to the green on the Prestige.....just be sure not to accidentally reprogram or change the Prestige Ignition 2 setting.

---Since you said the crank averaging wasn't working, I'd say there's a good possibility you mistakenly put the Prestige blue ignition wire, to the Toyota's pink accessory wire. This would allow you to program features on the remote starter, but then when you go to start the car by key, the accessory wire drops power, and this confuses the Prestige and it can't do its job of crank averaging. This would also mean, in turn, that probably either the Toyota black or small BLACK / YELLOW is being mistakenly powered as an accessory....which means it drops out right at the moment it needs to be on....which would certainly make it not remote start correctly.

Thx chris luongo your reply realy helped me out. i just mixed the black and yellow wire since there is two of them, i tested everything and it work as it should be, now just have to get the tach hooked up and programed.

last question, since when the car is running, it disables the factory security system so you can't lock it or unlock it from the factory remote.

same with when the car is running under the remote starter, you can't lock it or unlock it from the factory remote.

so to fix this, could i put a relay on Key Sense the BLUE/BLACK wire,

so when car is running under the remote starter it opens the circuit for the Key Sense wire, allowing the person the lock or unlock the car from the factory remote wile the car is running under the remote starter.

would that work?

Relay isn't required, if you have no by-pass just join the status (a.k.a. GWR) wire to the blue/black keysense wire.
Another train crash guys, this one a bit slower.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

From my experience, there is no way to fool the vehicle and get the Factory Keyless Entry FOB's to work while the engine is running ( either under remote starter or under key ).  Howards suggestion using GWR on the Keysense wire will disarm the Factory Alarm, if present

As noted earlier, most installers will install a remote start with keyless entry on vehicles like this, due to this very reason.  As MikeM2 kindly mentioned previously, your one button remote start system can be setup to allow an unlock during remote start.  ( No lock or re-lock, though.)

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Soldering is fun!

do you have any idea how to do it, i tried but couldn't figure it out.

Sorry, no idea.  Audiovox is not one of my brands.  Here is the info MikeM2 posted :

The 901 does unlock the doors also. By holding the single button down for 5 seconds it will pulse the BLACK/ blue whenever the RS is on, giving the owner a way to unlock without a key. We always connect this on cars that have an inactive remote when running.

Besides connecting the BLACK/ Blue wire to the cars Unlock wire, you might have to do some programming to Option 17.  Not sure.  Perhaps MikeM2 can assist you.

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Soldering is fun!

Definitely could have bought the APS57C for around $5.00 more and had your keyless and remote start all one one remote.

In fact, if you think you have another car to do in the future that could use the 901C.....they're the same plugs. You could buy an APS57C, plug it into the wiring you've already installed in your car....then put the 901C in the box with the new wiring from the APS57C and save it for another car.

And I've tried before to keep the keyless working during remote start on a Sienna. I found some ignition wire at the BCM I could cut, but then it made all kinds of check engine lights, and the heater didn't work during remote start anymore, so that wouldn't work.

But anyway, yes, the 901C can unlock the doors for you during remote start. There are two ways to do this. The "official" way the product was (poorly) designed to be used, and then a better way that a co-worker of mine came up with:

Official way to do it:

Find and test the lock and unlock wires that are listed on whatever tech sheet you have. They will test as a ground when you turn the key back and forth in the outside of the driver's door.

Connect the 901C's BLACK/ green to the car's lock wire, and the BLACK/ blue to the unlock wire.

How it will work: When you activate the remote starter, the BLACK/ blue will temporarily unlock the door. After the car completes the remote start process, the BLACK/ green will lock it back up.

Then, when you approach the car with the remote starter running, push and hold the remote (it takes a long time) and eventually the door will unlock so you can get in.

Optional: If you program the BLACK/ blue output for double pulse, the 901C will unlock all the doors for you. (If you leave it as default, it's going to unlock only the driver's door.) Totally up to you which way you want it.

So anyway, the sucky/stupid part is that this thing will be unnecessarily cycling your locks every time you hit the remote starter.

Better way to do it:

Go to the wires in the kick panel that come from the driver's door. Test EVERY wire in those bundles until you find the one that makes a ground when you press the unlock switch on the driver's door panel, NOT the one from turning the key cylinder.

This wire isn't listed on any tech sheet I've seen; you'll have to test and find it for yourself. Hint: If the driver's window/door switch pops out easily, pop it out, make a mental note of the wire color behind the switch....now you'll have an easier time finding it in the kick panel.

Now, connect the 901C's BLACK/ blue to this wire, and make NO other connection. You won't need the BLACK/ green for anything.

How it works: On Toyotas, the interior unlock switch is disabled when the car is locked and the car is off; the car is designed this way. So, when you activate the remote starter, the BLACK/ blue will pulse this wire trying to unlock the car, but it won't happen because Toyota doesn't allow it.

Then, after the car remote starts, the wire becomes "alive" again. As you approach the car and hold down the button on the APS901C, it'll pulse the Toyota wire, unlocking all the doors.

Note that while this method keeps the car's locks from cycling unnecessarily, and allows you to only connect one wire to the car instead of two, keep in mind that you no longer have the option of choosing to unlock only the driver's door----they'll all unlock together.