01 f150 viper 5501 idatalink ads tb issue

Installed my Viper 5501 today with the iDatalink ADS-TB-FM...All works fine other than the keys have to be in the ignition for the remote start to work. The bypass unit gives a pulsing green light when the ignition is off, on, and when starter is engaging. All other remote start/keyless entry functions are working correctly. Can't find any troubleshooting information on iDatalinks site. The wiring diagram is pretty straight forward for the F150 but I could screw it up :)

How I have it set up now:

Bypass > Location > Vehicle

Pink      > Ignition > Dark Blue / Lt. Green
WHITE/ Blue > GWR > Orange (RS Unit)
Red > Constant 12V > Yellow (with power supply to RS unit)
Black > Ground > Ground
Tx > pin 4 > White / Lt. Green
Rx > pin 3 > Grey / Orange

I checked and double checked all solder points and the ground. I've tried connecting the WHITE/ Blue to an actual ground just before hitting the remote start rather than using the GWR off the RS unit. No luck there.   

Another thing...I bought the iDatalink off eBay, I live in Alaska and not really sure if anyone up here has the equipment to reprogram the idatalink.

Thanks for any help,

Akpilot

When you programmed it to the truck did it do what the instructions say it needed to do?? Can you do a module reset and try programming again???

WHITE/ Blue > GWR > Orange (RS Unit)

thats the wrong ground when running wire.

the WHITE/ blue will go to DARK BLUE on the remote start. its called the STATUS (-) wire. or 2nd Defogger output (-)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

X2 with Ted.  As long as the seller flashed the ADS TB module with the ADS TB FM firmware, you should be good to go.  Only one working key needed for programming to the truck.

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Soldering is fun!

the orange on a viper is ground when armed( for a kill switch type situation) ground when running is a blue in the 4pin harness that has short wires, 1 blue, 1 orange 1 purple 1 pink

I'll try switching the GWR to the blue status (-) from the RS and post results...thanks.

If you haven't used them before, a few tips on the iDatalink module.

Before use, perform the Factory Reset procedure.  Follow that with the Installation Mode selection procedure ( two blinks
for Standard W2W connections ) and lock it in.  Then, program to the truck with the ignition key, watching the module LED light. 

You can start over with a Factory Reset as many times as you need.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg357....this is the first RS I have ever done, so yeah I'm new to the Idatalink. I was under the impression it had to be "flashed" to the model of truck? Am I understanding correctly that I can do a reset without worrying about needing to download firmware? I don't have the PC interface cable or the password for using idatalinks download program....thanks again. I should have time tonight to get back under the dash.

The ADS TB module is a Multi Series and can be flashed with many different firmwares to support many different vehicle applications.  For your F150, ADS TB FM is the correct firmware.  This firmware flash is done with the ADS USB cable and registered access to the iDatalink WEB site.  Once flashed, the firmware remains resident on that module.  The module can be re-flashed if necessary with a newer version (update) or even a different version ( for another vehicle ) using the same process.

Once the module is flashed with the firmware using the ADS USB cable, it is OK to do a Factory Reset.  The loaded firmware stays intact.  The reset just brings it back to the original condition after the module firmware flash.  Follow the #7903 Install Guide for the Reset, Install Mode selection and programming.

Without the ADS USB cable and access, you won't be able to verify the actual firmware on your module.  Hopefully it was flashed with the correct ( TB ) firmware.

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Soldering is fun!

Everyone....I couldn't have done it without you! Thanks! So, I hadn't ever done the program procedure at all on the ads module, helps when you don't attempt your first RS install on 4 hours sleep...Anyhow, switched the bypass GWR from the orange RS GWA to the blue/white (-) status on the RS, did the factory restore, then programmed with the single key...Works perfectly (insert banana man here)! Thanks again...Keep an eye out for the $ under my name shortly. While I was under there I went ahead and switched the accessory wire from my radio to the heater as I intended the first time around.

Cheers!
Akpilot

New issue....The "service engine soon" light came on the next day...Any thoughts?

Possibly coincidence but...

List your H3 connections and to where did you connect the Tach wire?

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Soldering is fun!

Did you connect all 3 ignitions (2 if you have all wheel ABS) AND 2 accessories at the ignition switch? Did you use relays for the additional connections?

12volts      yellow and lt. GREEN/ purple      +      ignition harness
Starter      RED / lt. blue      +      ignition harness
Second Starter                 
Ignition dk. blue/lt. green      +      ignition harness
Second Ignition gray / YELLOW      +      ignition harness
Third Ignition lt. blue/pink      +      ignition harness
Notes: Power this wire if vehicle is equiped with only rear anti-lock brakes. Vehicles with all wheel anti-lock brakes do not have this wire.
Accessory  RED / black   +      ignition harness
Second Accessory       BLACK/ green      +      ignition harness

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

H3 Connections:

12 Volt------lt.GREEN/ purple-------ignition
Starter------RED / lt.blue-----------ignition
Ignition-----dk.blue/lt.green------ignition
Second Ignition-------------------Didn't use   (possibly the problem?)
I have 4wheel ABS
Accessory-------BLACK/ green----------ignition
Second Accessory------------------Didn't use   (possibly the problem?)

Note: Originally I had the H3/Accessory hooked up to the RED / Black and found that the heater fan was not coming on, I switched the accessory to the BLACK/ green...same problem, radio is active with no keys but the heater fan still won't work.

Also I did not hook up the Tach wire since the 5501 has the auto detect through the unit...Should I still use the Tach wire?

@offroadzj ---- As you can see I did not hook up both Ignitions or both accessories... I also didn't use any relays.

I can almost guarantee that is your issue. Connect the pink/white flex relay to the 2nd ignition and connect the 2nd accessory through a relay as follows:
Pin 85 - (-)200ma 2nd accessory output (from relay harness)
Pin 86 - 12v constant fused
Pin 87 - 12v constant fused
Pin 30 - 2nd accessory wire in vehicle.

If you have the 3rd ignition wire present you will have to connect that as well with another relay. Just change anything that says "accessory" in the above relay to "ignition"

As far as the tach goes, tach is always the most reliable sensing. Will it work without it, yes, but it may not be reliable starting or may over-crank the starter. Tach is the right way to do it...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Re - Tach   Does it get cold there in Alaska?  See how virtual tach does, but be ready to switch over.

Use H3/6 Pink/White for IGN2 ( Flex relay is factory default set to Ign2 )

Use an extra relay for IGN3.  Wire as follows :

30/40A SPDT Relay
Relay Pin 85 to Viper PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and Pin 87 to +12V constant thru 20A fuse
Relay Pin 30 to F150 IGN3
Relay Pin 87A not used

Make sure Viper Red, RED / White and RED / Black all go to +12V constant.

You can use the same relay wiring for ACC2. As follows :

Relay Pin 85 to Viper ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and Pin 87 to +12V constant thru 20A fuse
Relay Pin 30 to F150 ACC2
Relay Pin 87A not used

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the help....Should I disable the unit until I have the time to fix the wiring? Or is it OK to run it the way it is, other than the "service engine soon" light?

I can't say for sure, but I would disable it. I know that on many GM's if you don't power the 2nd ignition it can cause damage to the transmission system. Not sure if that is similar on your for, but its probably not worth the risk.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks!