honda ridgeline windows down with viper

installed a viper 5902 in my ridgeline

i want to add the windows down/up feature based off this diagram



is the dome supervision wire from the viper or the car? thanks again

it wont work that way unfortunately.

the lock and unlock wire must see a single pulse, then a constant latched source for it to roll down.

form the 5902 use the comfort closure wire for lock so it will roll the window up.

use an aux wire, program for latched after unlock when you hold aux.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

i dont have a comfort closure wire?    can i just use aux 1 for window down, and aux for window up?

should i latch them both? and is the dome supervision wire the BLACK/ white in H1?

thanks

Not a separate wire look at the instructions, you PROGRAM Comfort Closure.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey, where did you get that diagram? I invented that myself and used it on a lot of Infinitis around 5+ years ago. I never did draw up a diagram; I just wrote it in text. Looks like someone either found one of my posts, or maybe just had the same idea.......anyway, I really have to get around to learning how to do diagrams.

OK, so a few things:

---The diagram you show above should work just fine, depending on a few details.

---How are you doing the doorlocks in your Ridgeline? Are you using a databus module, or hardwiring your connections to the arm & disarm wires in the door, and the lock & unlock wires at the fuse box?

---The reason I ask is because, I recently did a 2009 Odyssey, where I used an all-in-one doorlock/transponder module (Audiovox FLCAN), and then I also ran two wires into the driver's door to try to do windows......doesn't work consistently. Somehow the combination of the module sending data signals to the car at the same time the remote starter is sending hardwire signals to the arm/disarm in the door is messing things up. It was late when I finished the job, I never promised the customer I'd do the windows, and I didn't have time to troubleshoot.

---So anyway, at least if my experience with the Odyssey is correct, you'll need to do the following:
--1. Don't use a data module for the locks.
--2. Connect your Viper green and blue lock/unlock wires to the car's lock/unlock wires at the fuse box, pink/black and pink, if I remember correctly. (The wires are in the fusebox connector that faces the firewall; kind of sucks to access. Unplug it and pull the wires out a little. The wires test by operating the passenger doorlock switch.)
--3. Run your Viper's light GREEN/ black and light GREEN / WHITE arm and disarm wires into the driver's door; connect to the corresponding wires (white and WHITE/ red? I forget) at the power window switch.
--4. Configure your relay as in your diagram, but splice 87a onto your light GREEN / WHITE arm wire, and splice 87 onto your light GREEN/ black disarm wire.

---Operating instructions:

I'll try to explain the how-it-works part, and then the simple instructions you would give to a customer if you were doing this as a retail job.

HOW IT WORKS:

1. Take your key and insert it in the driver's door. Fool around with the key and observe how the car operates. You have to first turn the key in one direction, then release it so it goes back to the middle position, and then turn it again and hold it to get the windows to operate, correct?

2. OK, now that you understand the car's operation, you can probably imagine what's going on on the wires inside the door at the power window switch. You need to apply a ground to the wire for approximately 1 second, then take it away, and then ground the wire for a longer period of time to make the windows move.

3. So.....Circuit Operation: When the user presses the Lock button on the aftermarket system, the GREEN / WHITE sends a 1-second pulse to the arm wire in the door. Then, after a moment's "rest," the user presses and holds the aux button on the aftermarket system, which grounds the arm wire, and makes the windows go up.

4. Likewise, the user can also unlock the doors, then wait a moment, and then press and hold aux (domelight supervision relay is now on for 30 seconds), so now it grounds the GREEN/ black wire and the windows go down.

5. You could probably imagine that the user could, when the car is at rest, even press aux, release aux, then press aux again and raise the windows.......but don't complicate the story for the user; keep it simple.

CUSTOMER INSTRUCTIONS:

1. To raise windows: Lock the doors using the aftermarket remote, then press and hold AUX until the windows are raised to the desired level.

2. To lower windows: Unlock the doors using the aftermarket remote, then press and hold AUX until the windows are lowered to the desired level.

CUSTOMER NOTES:

1. Window control will not work with the car running. Whether the car is running by the remote starter, or running by the key in the ignition, window control is non-functional.

2. On Nissan/Infiniti, window control is also non-functional for 45 seconds after engine shutdown, unless a door is opened. Hondas may have a similar function. To test, activate the remote starter with the doors closed, then deactivate the remote starter from the remote, and try the window controls. If they don't work, this is why. Wait for the system to time out, or open and close one of the car doors.

VIPER NOTES:

1. Be sure to go into programming and turn off "ignition controlled domelight," or else that relay will kick on every time the customer parks the car and shuts the engine off. It probably won't hurt anything, but better to turn this off.

2. The "comfort closure" thing sounds pretty cool. It would be nice to do this for a customer, as it only takes a moment in programming. But if this Ridgeline is your own personal car, why not take a few extra minutes to wire up the relay and have full control over the windows up and down?

I was an installer from 1994-2005. Im a bit rusty at installing but just installed a Python 594 I'm my 2007 Ridgeline. I used a ExpressKit DBALL data us module.

I too would like to control the window up/down using the aux outputs. I ran wires into the driver door to the key cylinder wires.

I can send a momentary ground then latched ground to the corresponding wires and get the windows to roll up and down respectively.

I tried a few different things but never was able to make this work through the remote.

I dont want the windows to go up automatically with each arm cycle. I just want it to tool down with 1 aux, and roll up with the other.

What I need is a module that takes a pulsed input and turns it into a momentary pulse then a latched 30 sec output.

Is there such a module available? I have 3 PAC TR7's laying around I could try, but I didn't see anything in the TR7 manual that looked like it would work. Or maybe I'm misreading it?

Does anyone have any tips?

loginfailed,

I've never messed around with the TR7, although I've always wanted to at least get to see one sometime.

Anyway, what I would think you can do is just connect your unit's arm and disarm wires to those wires you have going into the door, along with the aux wires......

Like this:

GREEN / WHITE arm and AUX 1: Connect to arm wire in driver's door

GREEN/ black disarm and AUX 2: Connect to disarm wire in driver's door

HOW TO OPERATE: Lock doors with remote, then wait a moment and press and hold AUX1 to roll windows up.

Unlock doors with remote, and then wait a moment and press and hold AUX 2 to roll windows down.

P.S. The relay diagram above forces the customer to unlock before rolling the windows down, and also allows up and down with only one aux output.

In your case, if you want to use two separate aux outputs and eliminate the relay, you'll have to remember to lock/unlock first.

P.P.S. If it still doesn't work right, temporarily unplug your DBALL and see if that fixes it. I did an Odyssey with an FLCAN, and the FLCAN was sending lock/unlock/arm/disarm messages through data that was interefereing with the wires I ran into the door. If that's the case, you may have to stop using the DBALL for locks, and hardwire those yourself too.