Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2008 nissan sentra viper 5501w/dball

Hoping to install this in wife's car this weekend. Need some guidance on a few things
Non-Intellikey BTW

1. Will I need to isolate ignition switch? with PINK/BLK and PINK/WHT??

2. How do I wire RED / BLUE keysense wire? relay??

3. Which wires in the H3, other than 1,3,and 4 where do I wire the rest??

Heavy Gauge, 8-pin connector

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT

H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87

H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT

H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT

H3/5 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT

H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT 30

H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY

H3/8 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT

Wiring chart:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~101274

1. NO

2. Not Required

3.
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT

H3/2 not required

H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT

H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT

H3/5 RED (+) Connect to constant 12v

H3/6 not required

H3/7 not used

H3/8 RED / BLACK (+) constant 12v

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Ted, DEI (readyremote) shows a 2nd accessory for that car. Is it not required for r/s?

Op, Do yourself a huge favor and take the extra time to connected the r/s & DB-ALL with the W2W install mode. It will save you some headache down the road if you ever need to diagnose an issue. Also, the tach signal out of the DB-ALL is unreliable so make sure to connect it straight to the vehicle. If you haven't bought the equipment yet, consider getting the idatalink bypass for that car. I have found the idatalinks and Fortin bypasses to be more reliable than the xpresskits and tend to usually be a little easier to install. If you decided to go with the idatalink, the ADS-DLSL CA2 will be your best option as it will come pre-flashed with the required firmware for the vehicle.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

ive done 2 of these vehicles reg and intellikey. I used the second acc for both because I include defrost. Wiremagic said it was only required if you wanted defrost, and i have verified.

to the OP, you dont need the second acc if you do not have any intentions of connecting defrost.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thats what I thought re: defrost. Might as well hook it up while im in there.

Thanks!

be prepared to take apart the center console where the climate control is. thats the only place i could get the defrost wire at.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Can somebody explain in further detail on how to wire 2nd access and rear defog. 5501 has the blue/white 200ma neg. output. Which wire from switch if you know it? Want it to to come on/go off with the RS automatically.

defrost Light green (-) at climate controls 1sec pulse

relay for acc2
85 - second acc output from unit (-)
86 - constant 12v
87 - constant 12v
30 - second acc wire on car.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I only have 1 accessory wire from car though. Whats the alternative?

are you testing with a multimeter?

acc1 - RED (+)
acc2 - BLUE (+)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Everthing Ive found led me to believe 2008 has one acc 2009 up has 2. I will need to double check. Im thinking pink/white programmed to accessory output to power 2nd accessory wire at ignition( if there is one) then an aux access output to the relay? Would
It be bad if I wired the units defog out directly to that green wire programmed for 1 sec pulse to simulate button press? Rookie needs more detail on wiring that relay if it is needed. Thanks

DEI wiring confirms Ted's Red and Blue accessory wires. I would look directly at the ignition switch and make sure you do not have 2 accessory wires in that car before moving on. If it does have a 2nd accessory, then yes, you can program the pink/white for 2nd accessory and connect it directly to the car (no relay required).

As far as the defrost, just connected the blue/white output to the green defrost wire and make sure it is programmed for a 1 sec. pulse.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

the defrost will only work if you program the output for defrost, and have it turn on when below 0C or 32F

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

You guys were right bout the 2nd accessory. got busy doing the job right now! Need one more thing...best place to get the can hi, can lo? I keeop reading bout different BCM location sbehind glove box, behind cluster, under dash. Can I get any of the relevant wires at the ODBII plug maybe??

Nm, got it.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Would like to add one more thing....dont buy DBALL
Brake shutdown, immobilizer bypass work fine. No door locks,
trunk release, or parkIng lights as advertised. Kenny was right...
buy the Fortin or Idata

I only know b/c I was in the same boat. I used nothing but DEI for a while because back at C.City, that was what we used, so that's what I was accustomed to. But once I finally moved out of my "safety net" I realized how much better life was with Fortin and Idata.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

seaner76 wrote:

Would like to add one more thing....dont buy DBALL
Brake shutdown, immobilizer bypass work fine. No door locks,
trunk release, or parkIng lights as advertised. Kenny was right...
buy the Fortin or Idata

door lock, parking light have to be turned on through programming/options. The trunk you don't need it through data just hardwire right at therelease (-). should be defaulted as on, but its DIE..I mean DEI

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Yes the trunk is hardwired, thats easy. I was a little disappointed about the door locks though. When I flashed the DBALL,all options were checked off, and should be loaded. Is that where you meant it needed to be programmed Ted? What I did learn in the DBALL guide was : Parking Lights MUST be W2W in Viper/Python/Clifford 4X02/5X02 platform systems, This platform does not support D2D parking light message. In my case the 5501 PN(4702)but again no big deal..one wire hookup to the Red (+) grey harness above kick panel.

nope not the options when flashing, its in the advanced programming listed in the manual under options. take a look and you will know what i mean. pos dei bypasses. great starter/alarm unit but horrible bypass modules mainly the dball

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

There are only options for the locks such as IGN locks, active/passive arming etc. Ive read this thing over 10 times. (Viper 5501)

Ive also decided to rewire in W2W. The DB-ALL was supposed to make my life easier posted_image

...never again. Ive read all kinds of posts on dual-polarity outputs but still cant get a straight answer. 5501 has 3 wire output (1 not used)

Blue (+)lock (-) unlock and Green (-) lock (+) unlock.

I need a negative trigger for lock and unlock wires at my door. You think 5501 has built in relays or what? Any diodes needed?

blue is your unlock
green is your lock

no relays required, direct connection to your doorlock wires in the kick panel or BCM.

I personally like to hook Nissan's up like so
Lock wire from R/S to Arm Wire on Car, tests of drivers door key cylinder and will lock the doors.

Unlock wire from the R/S to the unlock wire on the car, test from the rocker switch on the door panel. This will unlock the door

Disarm wire from the R/S to the Disarm Wire on the car, this will test off the drivers door key cylinder. This will disarm the factory security(if it has factory security) and turn on the dome light as ling as the car isn't running.