2009 camry transponder bypass

Hello all, going to be installing an Autostart AS-2371TW-FM in a friends' wife's 2009 Toyota Camry 4 cyl. (not hybrid or PTS).....looking for some recommendations on a door lock interface/transponder bypass from those with experience with this vehicle. Would like to be able to do this D2D if possible, so something that will "play nice" with DEI/Autostart products. I know a lot of folks on this forum feel W2W is the more reliable way to go, but I'd like to at least give D2D a go........any specific tips on this vehicle/install also greatly appreciated!  Thanks, Al

for toyota vehicles, i usually hard wire everything because all the wiring is so accessible. the bypass of choice to use is the Fortin Key-override-all.

if you want to go d2d and prevent wiring as much as possible, the idatalink ADS-DLSL CA2 comes pre-programmed for w2w not DBI (d2d).

if you have your own ads-usb you can purchase the ads-al-ca and flash it for the vehicle youre working on. its going to be hard to find a bypass all ready to go online. youre best bet is have a local shop flash whatever module they have available for that 09 camry.


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

X2 with Ted.  The PKALL ( DEI version of Key-Override-All ) will do the bypass and go D2D & hardwire the rest.

If you what to try D2D with a full function module, try to get an iDatalink ADS AL-CA flashed with the DBI AL(DL) TL1 firmware.  That should go two way D2D with your AutoStart unit.  Here is a link to iDatalink :  https://www.idatalink.com/support/helpdesk    Download install guide #7709 for more info.  You will also need the ADS HRN DBI harness for the D2D connection.

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Soldering is fun!

I agree, this car is so easy that all you need is a bypass for the transponder. The locks/tach/brake/etc are so easy to get it isn't worth an expensive module, go with the module that's cheap...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Kregs suggestion of the pkall will work d2d, and Mike has a point. Use the most cost effective solution is key.

hardwire everything, most if not all connections are at the kick panel/fusebox.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Flashlogic FLTB1 has data-to-data and comes pre-programmed for your car; does transponder only. They sell something similar under the iDatalink brand, but I'm not sure what firmware comes on that one...you might need to reflash it.

Fortin's KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL or DEI's rebadged version (PKALL) works just as well, but does not support the DBI protocol, at least as far as I know.

If you can spend a little more, and want a cleaner install that's also easier for the car's owner to use, consider the Flashlogic FLCAN iDatalink ALCA. It does trunk, locks, tach, brake, and door/trunk trigger through data, saving you some connections to the car.

More importantly, it keeps the OEM remotes working even when the car is running, and if your aftermarket system is an alarm/starter combo, the OEM remotes will arm/disarm it, so the car's owner will never trigger the alarm by using the "wrong" remote. You'll also get the Toyota signature "beep" sound from both remotes (even the aftermarket).

Do keep in mind that FLCAN/ALCA require "flashing" the correct firmware. This requires a special "flasher" cable, as well as an account with ADS, and they only give accounts to professionals in the business. If you're planning this as a DIY install, only buy your module from someone who will sell it to you already flashed with the firmware you need.

Where I work, we would do this car with the FLTB1 and hardwire the locks/brake/trunk to keep product cost down.

If it were my personal car, I'd spend the money on the FLCAN (around $20-40 more depending on where you buy) to reduce wire splices into my car, and to keep the OEM remotes fully functional.

By the way, you don't need an account to look at the installation guides; they'll help you greatly in your decision. www.flashlogic.com and then select your car. Look at the guide for each module.

P.S. I've only used data-to-data from Flashlogic to Audiovox and DEI products. When it works it works well, but our industry has done a shamefully poor job of testing/fixing DBI before foisting the flawed products on us installers to suffer from.

I've never installed an Autostart before, so hopefully someone can come along and tell you how well they work in data mode.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions..most likely go with the simple/low cost approach and get the PKALL, hardwire the rest. One further question, anyone have any opinions to offer on the DBALL as far as an all-in-one for this vehicle? I can get my hands on one of these for just a few dollars more than the PKALL....looks like it may save me a bit of work/time (if D2D works as it should!). Liked the looks of some of the other bypass/door lock modules that were suggested above, but I have the XK Loader already, so am equipped to do any flashing on the xpresskit modules only........Thank you all again for the valuable advice, Al

Just for clairification, you will need the XKLoader2 to flash the DB-ALL.  Sorry, never used a DB-ALL but from reading some of the posts from others that have used them...... 

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Soldering is fun!

I never go D2D with DEI products. Every time I have in the past its had issues. W2W takes only a few minutes more and can be done right at the bench (or in the warmth of your living room) and it will save you a lot of headache later. With D2D you have almost zero diagnostic abilities (no wires to test for signal).
My suggestion is to save the money, get the PK-ALL, and do W2W. Otherwise you may end up pulling it all back out and re-doing it later.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Hello all....sry for taking so long to post back to this topic, bit of a change of plans on this end. Instead of the above-mentioned Autostart r/s, I'm now installing a Viper 571XV into the 2009 Camry!....don't ask!! Anyway, would appreciate if someone could give my wiring plans a going over and see if I've got everything covered....any criticisms, suggestions welcomed! Will be using the PKALL as recommended above and everything will be done w2w. Thanks again, Al

PKALL

6 pin conn.- PURPLE / white Rx(data in) -----light grn or brown (pin 4 @ ignition switch)

          yellow/black Tx(data out)-----tan or red(pin 5 @ ignition switch)

          blue/white(GWR)-----blue (pin 1 r/s aux harness)

          green-----blue(keysense..pin1 of 2 pin plug @ ignition switch)

4 pin conn.-blue-----+12v

         black-----ground

Viper 571XV

H1 conn.- H1/2 +/- light flash output (white)      to      black(-) @ headlight switch

      H1/8 ground input(black)       to      chassis ground

      H1/10 (-) horn output (brown)  to      pin 11 @ dash fusebox (white)

      H1/11 power input (red)         to      constant 12V

      H1/12 (-) 200mA channel 2 output (RED / white)      to   trunk wire (black) drivers running board harness through relay

Heavy guage satellite relay-

     1. Starter output (purple)         to     starter side of cut starter wire (blue @ ignition switch)

      2. Starter input (green)           to     key side of cut starter wire (blue @ ignition switch)

      3. 12V input (red)        to     12V from battery

      4. Accessory output (orange)   to      accessory (white @ ignition switch)

      5. 12V input (red)        to      12V from battery

      6. Ignition output (pink)           to       ignition 1 (yellow @ ignition switch)

      8. Ignition output (pink/white)   to        ignition 2 (pink @ ignition switch)

H3 conn.-

      H3/2 hoodpin shutdown(gray)           to        hood pinswitch

      H3/3 brake shutdown (brown) to        brake switch above brake pedal (blue)

      H3/4 tach input (violet/white) to         pin 9 diagnostic conn. (black)

      H3/5 neutral safety (BLACK/ white)       to         ground

H4 conn.-

     H4/1 door lock (green) to         drivers kick panel (purple)

     H4/3 door unlock (blue)          to         drivers kick panel (green)-set to double pulse

auxiliary wire harness-

     1. (-) 200 mA status output(blue)       to          GWR of PKALL

     4. (-) 200mA start relay (purple)         to 2nd starter wire (grey) ignition switch through relay

Well, think that's it....sorry for the long post, any input appreciated..thank you

Everything looks good as far as I can tell (didn't check factory colors). The only thing is to make sure you change the fuse jumper for (-) parking lights.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Does the Camry have the Factory Alarm?

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Soldering is fun!

only the XLE has an alarm...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks for the responses everyone, and the reminder regarding the jumper for - park lights Kenny! Couple more questions.....noticed both the bypass module and the remote start have the key sense output, do I have to run both or is just the one from the bypass adequate? Also, do I need to run both Starter 1&2 in this application.....reason I ask is that I've noticed some of the install guides for other xpresskit bypasses show only a need for Starter 1 on '07-'10 Camry. Thanks, Al

As far as I know, both starter wires are required and you must use a relay to activate the 2nd starter (unless the unit has a 2nd start option on the flex output... and you don't need the flex output for anything else). You should only need the keysense for the bypass module... not really sure why the starter calls for it.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

use both start wires and connect with a relay.
connect keysense from bypass module to car. diode isolate a status output from the remote start to the car key sense. you need this to disarm.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Okay, will use second starter through relay...thanks guys. Ted, I'm assuming you recommend that I use the keysense output from the r/s (isolated) to disarm when unlocking? Am I correct in this....thought the unlock/lock wires also took care of disarm/arming when used? Al

If you use the factory arm/disarm wires for the locks then it will arm and disarm with your lock/unlock on the aftermarket remote. However, it will not disarm before remote start that way. So if you were to remote start it while it was armed, it would set the factory alarm off. There are 2 options for disarming the factory alarm during remote start.
1) The easiest way: Connect the status output (Ground when running) to the keysense wire. The combination of the transponder bypass along with the keysense will automatically disarm the factory alarm. With this method you don't have to worry about the doors unlocking before remote start
2) Connect the disarm wire from the remote start to the disarm wire in the vehicle. This will send out a pulse on the r/s disarm before remote start which will disarm the alarm, but it will also cause the driver side door to unlock. Then you have to deal with trying to find a way to re-lock the door after starting. This is why its easier to just use the 1st method.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Again, there is no alarm in any Camry other than the XLE. You don't need the keysense connected to the Rs to disarm because there is nothing to disarm. You need the keysense connected to the bypass strickly for programming. The only reason to use arm/disarm instead of lock/unlock is to gain an easy way to have 2 stage unlock. Ya'll are making more complicated than it really is.

Chris recently did a really good write up on this car a few weeks ago explaining everything needed and easier ways to obtain them. You might try a search for it as it was very informative. Every wire you need is in two locations on this car, either the steering shroud or the drivers kick panel.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

specs] wrote:

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kay, will use second starter through relay...thanks guys. Ted, I'm assuming you recommend that I use the keysense output from the r/s (isolated) to disarm when unlocking? Am I correct in this....thought the unlock/lock wires also took care of disarm/arming when used? Al

---

There is a difference in the wires. Lock/unlock are the wires from the drivers door switch while arm/disarm are wires from the drivers door key cylinder. These are the ones you want, not lock/Unlock(and yse they are there whether you have a factory alarm or not). They are gray and brown in the DKP door harness. Do NOT set for double pulse, but connect the blue second unlock wire together with the first blue unlock to the disarm wire in the DKP. This will allow 2 stage unlock just like the factory remote does.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Man i checked every post Chris made for the last month and i can't find it...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike, glad to know I'm not the only one....been pouring over Chris's posts for the last hour...lots of good info there pertaining to Camry's but don't think I've come across the one you spoke of.......Al

What's the proper gauge wire to run from the battery, feeding all +12volt requirements (r/s, bypass, and relays) inside the vehicle? Understand it should be fused within 12 inches of the battery also....thanks, Al

You can connect directly to the Black wire at the dash fuse box. It is factory fused at 120amps and will be plenty for the starter. That way you don't have to worry about getting through the firewall (for power at least). The fuses already on the power wires are sufficient. For all small gauge power wires, connect to the main heavy gauge 12v feed between the unit and the fuse.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Yep, i agree plenty o power at the fat black wire on the front of the fusebox...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

How do you guys usually go about tying all your +12V supply wires into the main feed? I've got 3 or 4 large gauge wires to supply..wise to bundle everything together and just have the one connection point to the main supply? Or just tap into the main supply at a couple different points (when I have a bunch of large gauge wires bundled together, I seem to have a hard time getting the connection hot enough for soldering properly)

I personally like one or two wires at a time at different points...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks Mike....will let you guys know how it goes!...Al

Solder one joint...less trobleshooting than soldering 2 or three different wires for power...time is money.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage