2001 nissan quest rms, crank but no start

All the wiring was done following the 2001 Nissan Quest wiring diagram on this site. The tach was learned (programmed). All dash lights will come on (radio will play also) and the vehicle will crank but will not start. It's an APC-57C RS and KE only unit.

I have triple checked everything and can't seem to find anything connected wrong. Now, the only thing I didn't do was jump the starter wire #1 to starter wire #2 as the quest is listing 2 starter wires. Could this be the issue here?

Very likely.  Here is a note from Bulldog Security :

 NOTE *1 When Installing a REMOTE STARTER, you MUST use BOTH Starter #1 and Starter #2 wires. Both wires must be connected to the STARTER/CRANKING Output wire from the Remote Starter or the vehicle will NOT Remote Start when the Engine is cold.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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Very likely.  Here is a note from Bulldog Security :

 NOTE *1 When Installing a REMOTE STARTER, you MUST use BOTH Starter #1 and Starter #2 wires. Both wires must be connected to the STARTER/CRANKING Output wire from the Remote Starter or the vehicle will NOT Remote Start when the Engine is cold.

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BINGO!! That was it. Connected them both to the RS Starter output wire and she fired right up.

Thanks

i hope you used a relay for that second start, and not just jumped the start 1 and 2 together.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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i hope you used a relay for that second start, and not just jumped the start 1 and 2 together.

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Actually no, no relay was used. Care to explain why would I need one?

starter 1 - main starter
starter 2- cold start started (allows extra fuel delivery)

these are 2 entirely different circuits. by joining a jumper wire, you have defeated the purpose of "factory" independent circuit. They were isolated for a reason. I suggest you buy a 4 dollar relay and connect it properly.

it might not present a problem now, but it might down the road.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Ted, not might but WELL cause problems down the road, burn out fuel pump primer, burnt out starter and buggered engine ECU.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

tedmond wrote:

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starter 1 - main starter
starter 2- cold start started (allows extra fuel delivery)

these are 2 entirely different circuits. by joining a jumper wire, you have defeated the purpose of "factory" independent circuit. They were isolated for a reason. I suggest you buy a 4 dollar relay and connect it properly.

it might not present a problem now, but it might down the road.

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Extra fuel delivery for the 2nd start wire? Back in 2007 there was 8 pages of discussion on this topic and i think we still are all confused on what the 2nd starter wire actually does. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=90342&tpn=1&PN=1

I'm not confused so let's cut to the chase.
Very simply it enriches the air fuel mixture during cold starts.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I appreciate all your replies and suggestions but I'm still confused as to what is the difference? Even if I use a relay, the signal sent will be same no matter what?

ie; If I isolate the 2nd starter wire, there will still be a 12v signal sent to both wires (#1 & #2)at the same time by the RS during cranking which is essentially what a jumper wire is doing. So how is the relay going to make it any different?

Please forgive my questions if I'm missing something but I'm not an installer by trade, Just merely a do-it-yourselfer.

yes the purpose is the same, however the relay adds isolation for each circuit.

starter 1 controls the starter solenoid relay
starter 2 controls engine management, etc.

hypothetical situation here. Lets say one day your start solenoid gets stuck and somehow back feeds 12v constant down starter 1. Your HACK "jumper" solution will cause the second start 2 to get a constant 12v signal, even though that wire is only suppose to receive 12v for ~2-10s during hard crank. Just my 2cents.

remember its your vehicle, not ours. Many knowledgeable electrical installers on this forum would agree, for the cost of a relay just use one.





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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

X 2 with Ted, simple test, use your meter to see if these two wires are continuous during off, ACC, Ign and start. If they are don't bother with the relay.
I already know the answer.
Effectively what you're saying is that you don't agree with the perceived opinion of the manufacturers, DEI, Compustar, etc. etc. or installers.
Things are done for a reason.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.