viper 5501 smartstart, 2000 maxima se

Hi, I'm in need of some guidance please. My son recently purchased a 2000 Maxima SE, auto trans. Neither the seller (a wholesaler) nor my son were aware the vehicle had the Viper5501 with SmartStart installed not operational) even though both Viper remotes were still with the keys and factory remote pods. The problem, 2 weeks or so after delivery my son got a new cell phone, the instant he plugged the car charger into the front power socket the fuse blew as did the next 3, at this point I told him to stop replacing fuses. A few days later the blower motor, hazard flashers, turn signals, and "some other things" as I was told stopped functioning, this is when I got involved. Once the audio and Climate control was removed I found a power lead Scotch locked (shield was missing) at the base of the power socket / cigar lighter. It turns out this was the beginning of my problems with this installation, wires are stripped and twisted together, Scotch locks are in use everywhere, no shrink tubing, soldering, or crimp connections and I have a section of factory wiring harness removed after it had been cut, my fear is that a module / control unit had been removed from the vehicle with the missing section of harness. This is the area where I could really use help from someone here - it is an 18 pin white connector with 13 wires cut, Where did this harness go?
I am a former "Hands On" Certified Master Technician (18 years), former GM (Chevrolet) Master, as well as a former assistant service manager with a Nissan dealership, with over 25 years in the field as a working tech / diagnostician. I have access to the factory wiring diagrams as well. My problem is getting around and in and out under the dash, a few years back I required several spinal surgeries, the last was a complete front and rear spinal reconstruction, as a result I can barely move forcing my retirement some 15 years earlier than planned. S.S. disability doesn't leave much at the end of the month and my son just purchased the car with help from my wife and I, my point being I can not afford to send the vehicle to a shop to do what I once did on a regular basis. Any help would be greatly appreciated by all here.
thanks

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Rich12524

H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/2 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT
H2/3 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT
H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/5 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/6 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/7 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/8 N/A
H2/9 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT
H2/10 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
H2/11 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
H2/12 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H2/13 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
H2/14 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
H2/15 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)
H2/16 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
H2/17 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT
H2/18 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

if i were you, i would remove the system entirely.

From there, start rewiring/prepping the harness.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks Tedmond, that's what I am doing, removing the systems. I am missing sections of the harness though. For the life of me I can't figure out why someone would remove the section that was clipped. I've seen and repaired some awful butchering over the years but this one wins the Gold medal. I can't see how a "professional" was responsible for this install, I have yet to see a diode with this install so I am expecting my troubles will continue beyond the removal. I appreciate your guidance and help. One question, I was just looking at and printing the 2 body and 2 engine harness diagrams (I found 3 cut factory harness wires under the hood as well today) and was wondering if you might know if the 18 pin connector (female) might have come from the rear of the in cabin fuse panel, on paper it looks to be the M19 connector. I left my hand written sheet with the wiring colors in the car out in my garage where it will stay tonight, done all I can do today. I may need more help if you don't mind.
Thanks again,
Rich

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Rich12524

I hope the image uploaded, I believe it is worth more than 1,000 words. Please tell me this isn't a typical install, wiring stripped and twisted into the ignition switch harness was secured and insulated with cable ties only, no tape, connectors, solder, nothing. I got a kick out of the three 30 amp fuses installed onto the large ignition harness - all for one wire also hand twisted onto that mess. I offered to send Directed the FCC and serial numbers so they could track down who installed the units but haven't heard back from them, I sure wouldn't want this install representing my products. The harness connector I had inquired about is indeed the "M19", it plugs in behind the fuse panel.
Thanks again for the info,
Rich

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Rich12524

no problem, in downloads there is the entire install manual if you need it.

hope it all works out.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

WOW!    Haven't seen one like that recently!    I'm surprised the car was still running.   Will the wholesaler do anything to help? 

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Tedmond, I will take another look in downloads, I had located, downloaded and printed the generic installation for the 5501, is this the one you are referring to? Still ticks me off that whoever is responsible for this cut out the sections of three harness sections. I'm pulling the dash out tomorrow to get a better look at the situation, at that time I'll decide whether to repair or order and replace the harness(es). What a waste.
Thanks once again,
Rich

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Rich12524

Hi kreg357,

No help from the seller, as is sale, period.  I agree, once I found the extent of the cut wiring I was amazed that the car ran, either the installer is a genius (not) or the 5501 made up for a slew of mistakes - for awhile anyway.  The only problem this car had was an intermittent no voltage from the front O2 sensor.   When I scanned the system I assumed it was a "lazy" sensor, since it was pretty cold at the time and my garage had become a storage unit for the rest of the family I told the kid to just drive the car until the weather here in NY got better, we would replace the sensor then.  It's a good thing some of us consider soldering "fun", this is going to require a good deal of it.

thanks, Rich

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Rich12524

Hi Tedmond,

I "think" I have discovered what the missing module may be.  If you would please confirm (or not) my suspicion it would be greatly appreciated.  I have OEM printouts of the approximate module locations, some of the  connectors, some interior harnesses ( I can't get anymore until sometime next week, my "guy" is out until then ) and the prints on AllData just aren't cutting it.   From most everything I have read I should have an SECU module mounted on the steering column, I don't have anything there.   Is the SECU module where the heavy harness connector plugs into?   In the photo I posted it is the one with the 3 heavy gauge wires twisted together with the add on fuses ( it also has purple, pink/blk, red, white, etc. color wiring ), the one that is near or in the middle of the wiring mess in my photo.   I can't go by positioning with original wire length, so much was added to this I have at least 12" of travel, I have not had any luck finding where this particular connector plugs into which somewhat confirms my suspicion that parts had been removed.   As I explained in my original post I have very limited movement and I am unable to lay on my back.   Fortunately I have enough removed from the car to give me a pretty good view of things top down and straight on.  The problem with OEM diagrams as you know is everything is pristine in a factory state, no alterations to wiring and everything is assumed to be in place.   If the SECU is missing / removed is this a single, isolated, electronics only item or does it have anything piggy backed to it such as a relay, another module, etc.?

My son is currently driving my 06 SE, a low mileage, non beat on, no scratches, you get the picture, I want my car back before something happens to it, I was hoping to wrap the 2000 Maxima up by the weekend if at all possible, again, any help you can give me is truly very much appreciated.

Thanks, Rich

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Rich12524

Rich, send me your email by PM. i will send you the full printout of this car (wire connectors etc) maybe it will help you. From my knowledge the secu is just for factory security. it might have been taken out because the previous installer did not know how to bypass it. the secu can be taken out with no problems to the vehicle, just keyless remotes no longer work (which is the use of the 5501 start/keyless) the secu also monitors door triggers, trunk release etc. I have a feeling the secu unit went bad (common problem for pre 02) so the previous owner just had it removed, and the 5501 installed.

Edit: PM Sent


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond,
the 5501 must be one heck of a unit when installed properly considering that - a: the car ran AND b: just about everything did operate, amazing when looking at all that was cut up and bypassed one way or another. I'm guessing this is why the 5501 system started to fail - as indicated by the features / accessories that stopped functioning, again a "guess" on my part at the time.

When my son brought the car home I drove it for 2 days to feel the car out, motor, shift points, climate control operation, how it handled, etc. Anyway, I recall that the vehicle did not respond to either of the Viper remotes, however both factory remotes did lock / unlock the doors, the front windows went down when holding the unlock button and the horn announced properly, what did not function was the Nissan Security indicator, the red flashing lamp. Since this is a NATS vehicle, my neighborhood is fairly decent and everyone that knows me is aware of the 12 gauge at one door PLUS the additional security "measures" I keep throughout the house I wasn't all that concerned if the alarm actually sounded, this was something that could wait until warmer weather arrived, as we know that all changed quickly.

Thanks to you I now know the secu has been removed and I have a better "picture" of everything. Your input, guidance and assistance has been more help to me then everything else I have been able to gather since I started this repair, I can't thank you enough.
Rich



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Rich12524

To fix this spaghetti of a mess, I would recommend buying some heat shrink tubing. Whichever wires have been tapped into, cut it solder and shrink tube. This will make the wire like factory. Once those connections are fixed, then proceed to reinstall and solder/tape.

It must be tough working with a mess, but might as well do it right now that everything is apart. as mentioned, always willing to help out a 12volter that knows what they are doing.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks for the advice, I agree 100% since I need to add wire to make up for what was cut out, that's the only to do this repair, otherwise I could end up with all kinds of problems should they vibrate or pull loose, especially at the highest or innermost end. When I finish this job I plan on leaving the lower dash panels off for a week or so while it gets used, if all is good I will button it up then, two things I hate, a "comeback" and taking things apart twice. As you said, do it right the first time and be done with it.

Rich

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Rich12524