tacoma 4103 remote start unlock issue

2011 Tacoma 80 bit key.

Had this Installed at a shop here in colorado, they are also trying to see what is going on as it is not working perfect.

had them install the 4103 Remote start and keyless. They used the FLCAN from flashlogic as the bypass.

Remote start works perfect. Lock and Unlock work. Lights flash as they should, factory beep and factory fobs still work to lock/unlock.

Problem is after starting the lock and unlock no longer function, only way to get in is with key in the door. Holding * and Aux also does not flash lights for "car finder"

Any thoughts on what they did wrong?

Thanks for the help!
CU52

'They dont work'meaning the factory remotes or the avital remotes?
I have run into the issue with the factory remotes not working before.
I think if you use:

power lock - blue/white - DKP
Power unlock - gray - DKP
white 10 pin plug #s 6 and 7

That should get you going

Also are you holding the AUX and THEN pushing the start button for the car finder?

neither of the remotes will lock or unlock the car once it has been started, Viper 4103xv or OEM. Both remotes lock and unlock when the remote start is not active.

Not that it makes much difference but it is the viper model not the avital. https://www.boomboomcaraudio.com/97-viper-4103v.html

Yes tried both at same time, Aux then * none of those work.

The factory remotes will simply not work while the remote start is on. They are not data controlled and this is mentioned on the very first page of the Flashlogic TL4 install guide.

As for working with the aftermarket remotes, it depends on how they connected the locks. They should be using the key cylinder wires from the drivers door, not the switch wires. I have seen issues where you need to connect both(diode isolated) to make them work on some Toyotas also...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

They may have used the arm/disarm wires.
In which case they should use the other set of wires to remedy the problem.

Mike M2 wrote:

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As for working with the aftermarket remotes, it depends on how they connected the locks. They should be using the key cylinder wires from the drivers door, not the switch wires. I have seen issues where you need to connect both(diode isolated) to make them work on some Toyotas also...

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So in this case they may not have connected the ORANGE / white wire from the FLCAN to the pin 7 of the 26 pin per the install guide.

Frustrated as I did not want to do the install and screw something up (nor do I have the equipment to flash the FLCAN).

co_ne_dub wrote:

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They may have used the arm/disarm wires.
In which case they should use the other set of wires to remedy the problem.

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Are you saying rather than only using the D2D signal from FLCAN they might have also connected the lock/unlock from the 4103?


All thanks for the help so far. Really appreciate it and your time.

My suggestion would be to not use the ORANGE / white data to control locks at all for aftermarket. If they would simply connect the arm/disarm wires directly to the 4103 lock wires it should lock and unlock. Arm is purple, DKP 10pp, pin 4, disarm is GREEN/ black, DKP 10pp, pin 8. These wires also unlock the drivers door with the first pulse and the other doors wiht a second, making 2 stage unlock work just like the factory remotes.

Honestly, the FLCAN is not needed for this truck. They could have used a FLTB1 at half the cost to do immobilizer, then hard wire the locks, triggers, tach as they are all very easy to get.

I've read before of cases on this truck where the locks won't work off Arm/disarm when running but i have never experienced it myself and i've done dozens of these trucks. The cure when this happens is to use both arm and lock wires, diode isolating them. Again, this is very rare and probably not the issue here. 

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I would have just hardwired everything and used the adstb or something similar.
The door lock are not controlled by data as mikem2 stated.
I honestly did not catch that part last night.

Mike M2 wrote:

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My suggestion would be to not use the ORANGE / white data to control locks at all for aftermarket. If they would simply connect the arm/disarm wires directly to the 4103 lock wires it should lock and unlock. Arm is purple, DKP 10pp, pin 4, disarm is GREEN/ black, DKP 10pp, pin 8. These wires also unlock the drivers door with the first pulse and the other doors wiht a second, making 2 stage unlock work just like the factory remotes.

Honestly, the FLCAN is not needed for this truck. They could have used a FLTB1 at half the cost to do immobilizer, then hard wire the locks, triggers, tach as they are all very easy to get.

I've read before of cases on this truck where the locks won't work off Arm/disarm when running but i have never experienced it myself and i've done dozens of these trucks. The cure when this happens is to use both arm and lock wires, diode isolating them. Again, this is very rare and probably not the issue here. 

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Is it possible to have both the WHITE/ orange and the 4103 lock/unlock (blue and green) connected to the truck with the desired function? Asking as i am guessing the data is controlling the system to use factory beeper, when it locks/unlocks. It does sound like they only used data for keyless giving the issue for unlock and lock after start. I want to keep that if possible without added wiring.

I'll bet the installer connected something to the car's keysense wire. They're not supposed to do that.

Quick test:

1: Open driver door.

2: Fasten driver's seat belt (so that the car can't make any seatbelt chimes that could confuse you)

3: While the door is open, activate the remote starter and listen carefully.

Did you hear that key-forgotten-in-the-ignition chime?

If you did, go back to where you installed it and have them disconnect whatever they connected to the keysense wire in the car. As far as I'm aware, there's no Tacoma with a factory alarm, and the only reason to connect to keysense is to disarm the factory alarm upon remote starting (which you don't have).

And shame on them for shipping a car out without testing it.

I am taking it in this morning. Will update what we find. The cause was.
Again thanks for all of the responses.

It is all working as it should now. They did indeed have to hardware it for the appropriate I might just have a programming item to change. looks like it is set for double pulse lock and single pulse unlock (unlock two presses for all doors) lock button locks them then you hear the system try to lock it again quickly.