2011 toyota camry, crimestopper rs4-g3
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130706
Printed Date: May 28, 2024 at 11:45 PM
Topic: 2011 toyota camry, crimestopper rs4-g3
Posted By: o.j.
Subject: 2011 toyota camry, crimestopper rs4-g3
Date Posted: February 22, 2012 at 4:42 PM
I am installing a crimestopper rs4-g3 in my wifes 2011 camry next week and was looking for a little help. I have the kit, and bought a passlock kit. It seems I dont need the passlock but I do need 2 relays and pigtails? I am a mechanic(almost 30 yrs now) but have never done one of these. wire locator would be a great help too...pics??
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 22, 2012 at 6:33 PM
Here is a link to the Bulldog Security wiring info : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Here is a link to the DEI wiring info : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Toyota&model=Camry
Not sure if I understand you, but your Toyota does not have a Passlock Immobilizer system. It is
a transponder based system. Which bypass module do you have?
You will need one of the relays for IGN2, assuming you use the selectable high current output for
Starter2. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 23, 2012 at 3:50 AM
thankyou! I have the g3 kit and a passlock sl2...data bus interface kit. I looked at the directions and thats for gm productsso I dont think I need that.. so I have this kit and a relay. I'll still need a relay pigtail and what else? this is my first one I'm doing and i'm a little intimidated  . I dont have a bypass module...what exacty do i need for that? thanks again, I'm sure I'll be asking more questions
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 23, 2012 at 6:05 AM
The Passlock-SL2 is a Fortin bypass module intended for certain GM vehicles. Here is a link for more info :
https://ifar.ca/en/products/alpha/passlock-sl2/
You will need a bypass module intended for a 80 Bit Toyota transponder system. Assuming a standard "G" key
ignition system ( not Push To Start ), here is a link to the available modules from Fortin :
https://ifar.ca/en/vehicles/toyota/camry/2011/ The Key-Override-All will be the least expensive and is a
reliable unit. Here is a link to the Key-Override-All install guide for your car :
https://ifar.ca/download/2120/key-override-all_toyota_camry_-_g_key_%282010-2011%29.rev-b.pdf This guide
shows only the wiring for the bypass module, not the RS-4 to vehicle wiring. Most of the necessary wires
can be found at the ignition switch harness / steering column and dash fuse box.
Your car has two Ignition wires, two Starter wires and one Accessory wire. The RS-4 is capable of directly
powering one Ignition, the two Starters ( using the Brown wire for Starter1 and the Pink/White for Starter2 )
and the Accessory wire. Ignition2 will use a relay controlled by the RS-4 Yellow/Black Ign3 wire from the
12 Pin connector. With the exception of the **Trunk Release**, most of the wiring will be a basic direct
connection. ( Set the RS-4 for (-) Parking Lights.)
The Toyota Camry is a popular car and there is a lot of information available. For the professional installer,
it is considered an easy car. You will need a Digital Multi Meter to locate and verify the wires and a soldering
gun/iron to make your connections. I am not a Crimestopper dealer but there are some on this forum that are
familiar with your RS-4 system.
**Trunk Release**
The Trunk Release will require the second extra Relay. Here is some info on wire location :
Trunk Release BLACK (REV) AT BECU MODULE IN VEHICLE FUSEBOX
Trunk Release BLACK (5 WIRE) DRIVER KICK PANEL WHITE 17 PIN CONNECTOR PIN #5
Here is a link to the 5 wire ( REV ) relay wiring : https://documents.audiovox.com/700694.pdf The bottom
circuit diagram is correct for your Camry. Connect Relay Pin 85 to RS-4 12 Pin Tan wire and Fuse the +12v
supply at 10 Amps. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 23, 2012 at 8:49 AM
On the crimestopper unit with a Camry, i would hook the Pink/white programmable ignition output as ignition 2(which is default) and use the 4 pin harness on the crimestopper for you starter 2 relay. There is a small starter2 wire coming off the 4 pin harness that you will use with a relay to power your 2nd starter during crank. This way it frees up your yellow/black (-) ignition output to connect to your bypass.
I would also go with the keyoverride-all by fortin on that car for a bypass. There are 2 ways to hook up the bypass depending if you have a "G" stamped on the blade of the key, up near were the metal leaves the plastic head of the remote. if you have the "G" key, you need to connect the bypass wires behind the glovebox. Fortin's website shows you where/how to connect the bypass. If the key doesn't have a "G" stamped in it, the wires you need to connect to are at the steering column, Fortin's website also have that diagram as well. Not all Camry's have a "G" stamped on it, even a 2011
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 24, 2012 at 10:28 AM
thanks for all the help! I'm send back the passlock and have transponder relays and pigtails ordered. will let you know how it goes
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 24, 2012 at 10:39 AM
will this bypass work well?? https://www.amazon.com/Fortin-KEY-OVERRIDE-SL2-Encrypted-Transponder-Lincoln/dp/B0011TSF8I/ref=sr_1_sc_1?m=A3S5JX6S4LCKI6&ie=UTF8&qid=1330101177&sr=1-1-spell I'm tryin to stick with amazon and this is whats available. the fortin evo is the link you gave me, do you recommend that one over everything? I need easy , but my budget is limited too. I didnt get a price from the distributor list, how much is the evo? thanks again for your help
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 24, 2012 at 11:02 AM
Does your ignition key have a "G" stamped at the top of the blade?
Think I would go for the Fortin Key-Override-All. As Flobee4 pointed out, it will do either type key. ( His info on the RS-4 and the ingition wires is excellent also.) Typical cost on the Key-Override-All is around $40 and you could go D2D with it to the RS-4. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 24, 2012 at 12:54 PM
The D2D port on the RS-4 was having communication problems with Fortin if the firmware on the white label was 11 11, it need to be 12 or higher. I would hardwire it. On the key-override all, it doesn't save any connections anyway. So its not worth the gamble with the questionable firmware revision on the Crimestopper. BTW, the older firmware units work fine, just the data port(D2D) with Fortin modules was the problem.
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 25, 2012 at 2:56 AM
NO "g" stamp on the key, just a dot...the rs4 unit says on the back...rev: 4.1012 and the serial # is 1c147fmb7m6440
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 25, 2012 at 7:29 AM
A key that only has a "dot" on it can use either the keyoverride-all or the keyoverride-sl2. Also, because its the "dot" key, the wires you will need in the car are at the steering column.
Don't even worry about the D2D port and the firmware of the crimestopper. Its only 4 wires to hook up between the bypass and the crimestopper when not using D2d and 2 wires to hook up if you were using D2D. So you would only be saving 2 connections(Power and Ground).
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: February 25, 2012 at 7:29 AM
You are lucky because the 40bit(or dot) key is a much simpler install for bypass. You could also use the Flashlogic FLTB1 as it comes with KO software for your car right out of the box. Here's one for under 35 bucks on Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/Audiovox-FLTB1-Data-Transponder-Override/dp/B001RB1TZG/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1330176330&sr=8-12
Here's a link to the guide. It states 2010 but it will work on the 2011 with 40bit just the same...
https://www.flashlogic.com/solutions-for-vehicle/6274
Also. i'm not sure if you are aware of this but you can avoid using a bypass altogether if you don't mind giving up your gray valet key. You can simply put it in a key coffin and be done with it... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 9:45 AM
mike, so what your saying is I can just install the crimestopper unit and be done as long as I dont mind sacrificing my valet key? that'd be great!!
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 11:08 AM
Correct, you can fork up akey, but for the cost of a bypass it makes more sense to use one. Also you don't have to worry about it not starting in colder weather.
-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 11:08 AM
Correct, you can fork up akey, but for the cost of a bypass it makes more sense to use one. Also you don't have to worry about it not starting in colder weather.
-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 11:35 AM
i dont really have a need for the valet key do I? i have 2 regular keys now. my wife is the only one who drives it and the other key has been in a desk drawer since we bought the car. and why would it not start in cold weather? sorry for all the questions, just trying to do a good job and keep it simple and inexpensive. thanks for the help
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 1:26 PM
You can use a DEI 556UW ( or equivalent ) "key-in-the -box" universal bypass with your spare valet key. As Ted points out, antenna placement is important for reliable operation. Key placement inside the box is important, too. Be sure to secure the key ( inside the box ) and antenna in place after doing many function tests.
The other downside to a spare key hidden in the vehicle is the security risk it represents. The $15 difference in price between an actual "data" type bypass module and a key-in-the-box ( with a $70 key inside ) makes the choice easy for most installers ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 1:36 PM
ok, you've convinced me to do the transponder override. I'll order that and get back to you all. thanks for the help!!
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 2:14 PM
can you direct me as to where I can get 5 pin relay pigtails? the place i found on amazon was only 1$ ea but wanted like 12$ to ship..will a local radio shack carry them?
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 3:30 PM
any local car shop, electronic parts retailer, auto parts or radioshack will have them.
-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 9:34 PM
I have installed literally hundreds of 556UW on new Canrys and have never had one come back. The key to a good install is to get the ring very tight and up against the shroud. The car comes with 3 keys new so there's a spare still. No security risk if you run the blade of the key over a grinder first. Right now it's the only choice on the 2012 Camry as there are no bypasses on the market for the car...
-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: February 28, 2012 at 1:01 AM
I always use Crimestopper's universal bypass (key in a box). The module is longer than the DEI version so no modification in needed to the key or bypass. BTW, it's cheaper too.
-------------
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 10:03 AM
ok , I found the dei unit, 12$ I think, couldnt find the crimestopper one, sounds like that one works best. and where do I mount this unit, under dash as high as I can? (as close to ant as possible?)
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 12:54 PM
Mike M2 wrote:
I have installed literally hundreds of 556UW on new Canrys and have never had one come back. The key to a good install is to get the ring very tight and up against the shroud. The car comes with 3 keys new so there's a spare still. No security risk if you run the blade of the key over a grinder first. Right now it's the only choice on the 2012 Camry as there are no bypasses on the market for the car...
fortin has the new TB-Toyota that works for 2012 lineup. Used one already, and they are pretty solid. Just hassle of the dealership scan tool. if you install for dealerships, im sure they dont mind letting you use it. Simple setup. ------------- Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 2:19 PM
o.j.]o wrote:
, I found the dei unit, 12$ I think, couldnt find the crimestopper one, sounds like that one works best. and where do I mount this unit, under dash as high as I can? (as close to ant as possible?)
If you mean the 556UW, it' doesn't matter where you hide it. I always screw it to the black duct that's to the right of the steering column right behind the knee airbag. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 2:26 PM
tedmond wrote:
Mike M2 wrote:
I have installed literally hundreds of 556UW on new Canrys and have never had one come back. The key to a good install is to get the ring very tight and up against the shroud. The car comes with 3 keys new so there's a spare still. No security risk if you run the blade of the key over a grinder first. Right now it's the only choice on the 2012 Camry as there are no bypasses on the market for the car...
fortin has the new TB-Toyota that works for 2012 lineup. Used one already, and they are pretty solid. Just hassle of the dealership scan tool. if you install for dealerships, im sure they dont mind letting you use it. Simple setup.
Yea i saw that. I deal with a couple Toyota dealers and it will be mixed as to whether i could use it. Carmax Toyota will have no issue programming it but another i can think of would charge to do it. We looked into TIS scantool to purchase also, there are cheap Chineese versions you connect to a laptop for 200 bucks. I'm wondering whether it's worth stocking them at all, Idata says they are close to releasing software for the new Camry and would make the Fortin obsolete. For now we may stick with the key in the box... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 10:48 PM
Mike M2 wrote:
We looked into TIS scantool to purchase also, there are cheap Chineese versions you connect to a laptop for 200 bucks. I'm wondering whether it's worth stocking them at all, Idata says they are close to releasing software for the new Camry and would make the Fortin obsolete. For now we may stick with the key in the box...
I would wait for the idatalink software personally. Idatalink specializes in toyota and im willing to bet that it won't require a dealer scan tool. ------------- I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 04, 2012 at 8:04 AM
ok thanks guys, I ordered the dei unit yesterday as well as 2 relays and ends. will probably have questions when i actually lay it out
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 04, 2012 at 3:14 PM
pts760 wrote:
Mike M2 wrote:
We looked into TIS scantool to purchase also, there are cheap Chineese versions you connect to a laptop for 200 bucks. I'm wondering whether it's worth stocking them at all, Idata says they are close to releasing software for the new Camry and would make the Fortin obsolete. For now we may stick with the key in the box...
I would wait for the idatalink software personally. Idatalink specializes in toyota and im willing to bet that it won't require a dealer scan tool.
I want to see what idata has to offer. I would rather avoid any dealer scan tool in general, but we'll see. ------------- Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 12, 2012 at 9:10 AM
Ok, so I think I have everything I need except for a few questions. If you go to crimestoppers website you can view the same inst man I have. I will go through wire by wire just to clear a few things up for me. Thanks so much for your help!! This is for the low current 12 pin plug 1) yellow/wht horn chip...does my horn req. 12 v?? 2)yell/blk...grd out when running..do I need this?? 3)brn aux out trunk pop..diagran shows a relay wired in , I assume I have to do this?? 4)grey neg hood switch...do I have to put this switch on? or can I wire a toggle switch under dash?? 5) RED / wht tach input...can I hook this to the tach wire for my camry?? Low current 3 pin plug 1)green start activation input or oem interface...looks like mine would be option 17-1 mode 2 ?? 2) ORANGE / wht programmable opt 24 for vehicles req a 2nd acc or ign... do I need this?? if so what for 3) blue/orange stater output for push to start..I dont need this , correct?? power door lock wiring.. is mine a neg trigger?? or is it a databus/canbus system??? Smarttachless mode...should I use this instead of the wire I mentioned earlier?? tach wire seems accessable and programming seems way simpler. Hi current 6 pin 1)pink/wht 12v multi funtion do i need?? ok now the dei unit 1) blue staus wire where does this go ?? and finally the set up for the dei ..can I use standard immobilizer interface or alt1 or alt2?? thanks again for the help, I'm trying to keep this simple as this is my first one, been a mechanic for 27 years but the last 18 have been as a truck mechanic so this is a little more than what I'm used to.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 12, 2012 at 1:47 PM
I'm not a Crimestopper person, but here is some help/suggestions.
1) yellow/wht horn chip...does my horn req. 12 v?? Your horn requires a (-) signal which is what the Yellow/White wire outputs.
HORN WHITE to BLACK (-) @ HORN SWITCH in COLUMN or DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 16-PIN PLUG(D), PIN 11
2)yell/blk...grd out when running..do I need this?? Yes. This signal is used to control the 556UW ( Blue Status (-) Input wire).
3)brn aux out trunk pop..diagran shows a relay wired in , I assume I have to do this?? No you don't have to if you don't want to be able
to pop your trunk with the Crimestopper system. If you want this feature, you will have to use a relay and connect to the actual trunk
release motor solenoid.
4)grey neg hood switch...do I have to put this switch on? or can I wire a toggle switch under dash?? This is a safety issue. You should want
it to automatically kill the R/S whenever the hood is open(ed).
5) RED / wht tach input...can I hook this to the tach wire for my camry?? Tach Mode operation is the most reliable and the tach wire can be
found at Pin 9 of the OBD2 connector.
Low current 3 pin plug
1)green start activation input or oem interface...looks like mine would be option 17-1 mode 2 ??
2) ORANGE / wht programmable opt 24 for vehicles req a 2nd acc or ign... do I need this?? if so what for Use for the Starter2 ignition wire
with an extra relay.
3) blue/orange stater output for push to start..I dont need this , correct?? Yes
power door lock wiring.. is mine a neg trigger?? or is it a databus/canbus system??? Standard Type B (-) negative trigger system.
Smarttachless mode...should I use this instead of the wire I mentioned earlier?? tach wire seems accessable and programming seems way simpler.
Hi current 6 pin
1)pink/wht 12v multi funtion do i need?? Yes, use for Ignition2 wire.
ok now the dei unit
1) blue staus wire where does this go ?? Yellow/Black ( see above )
and finally the set up for the dei ..can I use standard immobilizer interface or alt1 or alt2?? Standard setup with loop.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 14, 2012 at 11:26 AM
thanks! that'll help.. about the low current 3 pin green wire would mine be option 17-1 mode 2? and i did just realize because the key is the remote, i really dont need to mess with the door locks or trunk pop do i ? and 2) ORANGE / wht programmable opt 24 for vehicles req a 2nd acc or ign... do I need this?? if so what for Use for the Starter2 ignition wire
with an extra relay. how do i wire this, the instructions say nothing about this. what is the purpose of ign 2 and starter 2? thanks for the help
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 14, 2012 at 11:44 AM
some vehicles have multiple start or multiple ignitions. you want to power all circuits to mimic using a key.
with a relay
85 - (-) start or ign from unit
86 - constant 12v
87 - constant 12v fused
30 - to start or ign wire
-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 14, 2012 at 1:28 PM
I believe most all Toyota's disable the Factory FOB's lock control while the engine is running. Verify this by starting the car with one key/FOB and trying to lock/unlock the car with the other Factory FOB. You will need the Crimestopper's FOB's lock & unlock buttons working to get into the car during a R/S. Can't help with the Crimestopper programming options.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 15, 2012 at 2:56 AM
about the low current 3 pin green wire would mine be option 17-1 mode 2? or option 17-2 (default)?
and with the ORANGE / wht wire
some vehicles have multiple start or multiple ignitions. you want to power all circuits to mimic using a key.
with a relay
85 - (-) start or ign from unit This would be the ORANGE / white wire correct?
86 - constant 12v
87 - constant 12v fused
30 - to start or ign wire
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: March 15, 2012 at 6:10 AM
Thicker ignition harness on crimestopper
Both reds to constant 12 volts
Pink to ignition 1
pink/white to ignition 2
Gray to accessory
purple to starter 1
Thinner 3 pin Harness
blue/orange to relay, relay's output to starter 2
For the bypass if you got the 556u
Red to constant 12 volts
Black to Ground
Blue to yellow/black on crimestopper
No other wires used on the 556u, just those 3
Special note on the yellow/black on the crimestopper. Check to see if you have a factory alarm. If not, just connect the yellow/black straight up to the 556u's blue wire. If it has a factory alarm, then you need to Diode isolate(split with diodes) the yellow/black output of the crimestopper. After the split, one wiire goes to the 556u on the same blue wire, and the other needs to goto the keysense wire on the camry.
Checking to see if you have a factory alarm:
1) Roll down the drivers window
2) with the car turned off, close the drivers door and press lock on the camry's remote.
3) wait 1 minute
4) reach into the car through the open window and manual unlock the door. if when the door opens the horn starts beeping, then you have a factory alarm. if it doesn't beep, then you don't have the factory alarm.
As for door lock wires, you will only be using the lock/unlock wires on the crimestopper. You will not be using the orange or the ORANGE / black, but don't cut the orange, you will need it, just not for the locks. The lock/unlock off the crimestopper will be wired into what is listed as your arm/disarm wires on the camry. In the feature menu, doorlocks need to be changed to double unlock for all the doors to unlock.
Crimestoppers unlock wire to disarm on camry
Crimestoppers lock wire to arm on camry
The orange re-arm wire needs to wired into the camry's drivers doorpin wire. What happens with toyotas, is when your car turns off the headlights will stay on until the drivers door is opened. When the drivers door is opened, that starts an internal timer in the camry to turn off the headlights in about 20-30 seconds. If you never open the door, then the headlights will stay on until your battery is dead. So, if you remote start the car and decide not to go out and either let the remote starter time out, or turn it off by remote, the camry will leave the headlights on until the battery dies. Hooking up the orange wire to the driver doorpin fools the car into thinking somebody opened the door and starts the internal timer to turn off the headlights.
The brown trunk release is also special. You need to cut the Trunk release wire in the camry in half, and wire a relay as follows:
85 - Brown trunk release wire
86 - constant 12v
87 - constant 12v fused
87a - The camrys trunk wire, the half heading towards the front of car
30 - The camrys trunk wire, the half heading to the rear of car.
If you do have a factory alarm then the brown wire will have to be diode split. One end of the split will still goto pin 85 on the relay, the other wire will goto the the trunk disarm wire. This way when you pop the trunk, the factory alarm will disarm and not go off on you. The trunk disarm wire is the the same white plug as the trunk release wire in the drivers kick panel. It tests as ground while turning the key in the trunk's key cylinder. I think its either green or red... but test to make sure.
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 16, 2012 at 1:41 AM
wow lots of good info...couple more items I'm not clear on
1) my camry does not have a factory alarm so I wont need to use the ORANGE / blk and the orangefor arm/ disarm... correct?
2)the orange rearm wire gets wired to drivers door pin??
3)the green start activation wire- is this any start wire? or does it get hooked up to the neg wire on the door locks???
4) orange /wht ...is it acc or ign out put..wire it to acc ??? relay??
5)blue /orange ... to start? w/ relay??
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: March 16, 2012 at 6:35 AM
1 & 2) Since you don't have a factory alarm, you will not be using ORANGE / black or Orange to arm/disarm your car. You will use the orange wire instead to the drivers door pin. The orange wire outputs when the remote starter is turned off. If the remote starter is turned off and the drivers door isn't opened, the headlights will stay on until the car battery is dead. When you hook up the Orange arm wire to the drivers door pin, it will simulate someone opening the door, thus turning off the headlights.
3) You do not use the green wire on the 3 pin harness
4) You will not use the ORANGE / white wire on the 3 pin harness. The camry has 2 ignition wires. Your thick Pink wire goes to Ignition 1, Your thick Pink/white goes to ignition 2, and your thick gray goes to the one accessory wire in the camry.
5) The camry has 2 starter wires, but your crimestopper only has 1 high power starter output(thick Brown), The thick BROWN goes to starter 1. The blue/orange is a low power/negative output ment to be hooked up to a relay for high power situations. The blue/orange will provide an extra starter output that through the relay will supply power to your starter 2 wire on the camry.
*EDIT on my earlier Post
Thicker ignition harness on crimestopper
Both reds to constant 12 volts
Pink to ignition 1
pink/white to ignition 2
Gray to accessory
BROWN to starter 1
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 17, 2012 at 3:03 PM
thanks alot, that makes it very clear. where would you recommend mounting the led light and the programming switch? the crimestopper unit and the dei unit I assume would be onthe driverside underdash area
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: March 17, 2012 at 4:31 PM
you don't need the LED plugged in, so I never use them/mount them. As for the Programming switch, I zip tie it to the harness behind the OBD Plug. I do this with all the cars I do, this way I know where the programming switch is every time.
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 18, 2012 at 6:43 PM
anything special with removing lower panel and column cover??
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: March 19, 2012 at 7:38 AM
drivers running board trim first, then the drivers kick panel. The panel under the steering wheel is most likely held in by 10 mm screws. Once that panel is off you will see the airbag is still there, its held on my 4 10mm screws. You won't need to unplug it. I unscrew it and flip it around and make it parallel to the center console. on end of the air bag goes near the gas pedal and the other end goes toward the seat. Put a towel over the front of the airbag because this panel scratches easily. You will see that part off the airbag assembly is the OBD port, your tach wire will be in there.
You will also need to take off the steering wheel shroud. While sitting in the drivers seat, there are 2 Phillip screws facing you. start the car and move the steering wheel one way to get out 1 screw, and then move the steering wheel the other way and remove the other screw.
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 19, 2012 at 10:37 AM
into it now, little confused with the transponder ring set up, how does that come apart...or is tapping into the wires easier??
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 19, 2012 at 3:32 PM
all installed remote wont respond. I put the ant loop over the ing switch as it sits in the column. I didnt try to take switch off, I'm guessing thats the prob?? Help!!! When I press the program switch 4 times to program remote the car responds...4 honks and light flashes
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: March 22, 2012 at 12:22 PM
Taping the loop around the factory transponder ring is the easiest way.
As for the remote issue:
Do both remotes have this issue? If so try this:
First make sure you have the antenna plugged into the correct plug on the brain. It's the four pin black harness next to the blue two pin harness for the program switch. Also, make sure the antenna cable isn't pinched anywhere and the harnesses are snug at both the antenna and the brain.
Also, when you go to re-program the remote turn the ignition to the on position and press the program switch four times. You should hear four clicks from the parking light relay then hit lock on the both remotes one remote at a time. You have to program all transmitters at once otherwise the remote that isn't programmed during this procedure won't work. You should hear a relay click for each remote that is programmed successfully.
Also, make sure that the remote isn't on the second vehicle. If you programmed the remote and the LED is green with each press of the button then green is for the vehicle you just programmed if for. If the LED is red then the remote is in 2nd vehicle mode. To switch the remote back to green, press and hold the VEH button until the light turns from red to green.
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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: o.j.
Date Posted: March 23, 2012 at 2:32 AM
thanks! crimestopper tech support got things squared away, had antennae issues , resolved. if the loop gets touchy, I'll take it apart and tape it, i just tie wrapped it best I could...ok for now
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