ford parking light switch
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130741
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 5:21 PM
Topic: ford parking light switch
Posted By: pts760
Subject: ford parking light switch
Date Posted: February 25, 2012 at 11:45 PM
Just curious. Has anyone used the negative parking light wire at the switch on the fords 2010-and up(which looks like a VW switch)? I've seen it on the tech sheets but have heard horror stories about using it. Does it need to be isolated from the switch or is positive the way to go (this is the method i always use)?
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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Replies:
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 26, 2012 at 4:39 AM
I always try to use low current negative when i can, in some cases the neg wire cant be easily accessed. just wire it as per the notes on the wire guide, some need isolation some dont
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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 26, 2012 at 7:44 AM
If you read some of the horror stories of newer Ford installs using the negative Parking Light wire at the switch ( especially the F150's ), you quickly come to the conclusion that the positive Parking Light wire found at the SJB is the easiest and safest way to go. While it is (+), it is a low current relay control output. The SJB, if accessible, provides many wire connections for the standard install.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 26, 2012 at 8:19 AM
The only time you have a problem using the wire at the switch is if you do not catch the part about it being negative. If you apply positive voltage to said wire, you will open a trace on the circuit board inside the switch.
Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: February 26, 2012 at 8:28 AM
hi,
Just curious, what is a 'low current relay control output'? If the lights are controlled by the switch, or by properly wiring the remote start/alarm in the correct way, wouldn't that be the safest way? Say the lights are connected 'positive'. The wiring for the parking light circuit gets 'violated'. Which fuse on the remote start blows?...or does the fuse where the remote start/alarm is obtaining power from blow (ignition switch wiring?). So now the vehicle has no parking lights, or is electrically dead at the ignition switch.
Just my thoughts.
Mark
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 6:49 AM
The relay acts as a buffer. Its "low current" coil closes the high-current switch.
A parking light short might blow the park light or whatever "high-current" fuse, but it has no effect on what is controlling the relay.
Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 1:48 PM
There is a ground wire I believe at the switch that has to be opened to use the negative switch wire. Why not just use the positive light wire and know for certain there won't be future issues?
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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 3:15 PM
racerjames76 wrote:
There is a ground wire I believe at the switch that has to be opened to use the negative switch wire. Why not just use the positive light wire and know for certain there won't be future issues?
Positive is the route I always go. I just wanted to see what other installers thought about the negative circuit and what everyone else is doing. ------------- I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 6:21 PM
i use negative trigger lights when available, why pull needless power through the module if the vehicle can control the lights. and i get my relays cheap.
Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: February 27, 2012 at 8:47 PM
I sometimes do(-) lights at the switch, with the relay interrupt. Works fine, never had a problem.
But i would ask david perez,
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 28, 2012 at 12:18 AM
Using a -ve (ground) trigger has the advantage that you can add (parallel) other switches or triggers without worrying about the supply voltage or diodes.
On the power side, I prefer switching +12V so that the circuit is not normally "hot" (powered). Plus it seems that cars with "strange lighting issues" (eg, might be on dimly when supposedly off) have ground switched lights (ie, +12V always applied to the lights; the relay (or switch) grounds them. (I did once know the reason...)
But that the beauty of a relay - you the switch polarity can be independent of the power polarity (eg, ground to energise the +12V power side). Not to mention shorter heavy wiring, lower voltage drops, and no switch strain.
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 11:03 PM
Mark Mizenko wrote:
I sometimes do(-) lights at the switch, with the relay interrupt. Works fine, never had a problem.
But i would ask david perez,
This may be a dumb question but who is David Perez ------------- I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: March 01, 2012 at 3:22 AM
zerepdivad is his username. I have not seen any activity from him in a while.
Posted By: pts760
Date Posted: March 01, 2012 at 4:02 PM
i am an idiot wrote:
zerepdivad is his username. I have not seen any activity from him in a while.
I understand that but my question is why would I ask him about this topic? I'm not familiar with him. ------------- I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
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