02 trailblazer lt, viper 3305v

Greetings-

Long time lurker, first time poster. We've had a rash of vandalism and theft in my area. Recently I had a Pioneer AVH-P3300BT stolen from my car. So, time to install an alarm on the truck since I just installed one on my bike. Back history: Electronics technician and sophmore EE with 10 years of component electronics repair/maintenance and I've done a butt load of car stereo installations but this is my first alarm on a car. I have read through the manuals and various Trailblazer forum posts trying to get a grasp.

Vehicle:
2002 Chevy Trailblazer LT (w/o Bose /w OnStar /w factory keyless entry

Viper Responder 350 two-way (not using remote start option) #3305V
Xpresskit Nexgen DBALL interface (have to program for the truck yet)
DEI 508D Dual Zone Motion Sensor
DEI 506T Audio Sensor

Wiring Diagram(s) Being Referenced: -
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=2247&tpn=1&PN=1 (02 Trailblazer Wiring)
https://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=65742 (Trailblazer How-To; different alarm)
https://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/2002-2008/Chevrolet/Trailblazer/1776.html (Additional 02 Trailblazer Wiring)
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6649&productid=461&firmwareid=1916 (DBALL wiring how to)

Issues:
I have been putting off this install for a few weeks now while trying to research the install. From what I have read the Responder 350 lacks a Data-2-Data port, so I cannot use D2D and will have to use W2W which isn't an issue for me. Is this correct?

According to Viper, this unit has two aux inputs; hence why I bought both the 508D and 506T. Yet, I only see one aux input on the unit. From the research I've done, I am able to splice one of these in to other wiring. I also read in the manual I am not to plug any high current draw device into the Aux port so this would eliminate the motion sensor from being plugged into the unit. So the glass break sensor would be plugged into the auxillary port while the motion sensor would have to be spliced... correct?

Regarding placement of the motion sensor... The center console in my vehicle is mostly covered by my seats. There is a small space under neath my front cup holders and shifter I could place this. The center console ends where the front seats end so I can't place it in the center of the vehicle on the floor. Although, I could lengthen wires easily, and put it inside the headliner. Thoughts? What are the limitations on this unit? How much plastic, leather, etc will this go through yet still be effective?

Regarding the placement of the brain... I have heard some say go ahead and mount it to metal yet I have read in the manual (and online) to mount it to carpet. Opinions? The more sensitive... the better.

Finally regarding wiring of the DBALL and 3305V... What is the unit that interfaces with the vehicle for the most part? To me it seems like the DBALL. So how I have it in my mind... is I wire something like this:
|Truck Wiring|<-->DBALL<-->3305V<--506T and 508D and any wiring not used by the DBALL
Am I correct with this assumption? So most wiring to/from the vehicle harness would be handled by the DBALL. Any that isn't, will be wired up to the alarm brain. The glass break sensor will connect to the 3305 brain via the auxillary port while the glass break sensor will have to be spliced into other wiring coming to/from the 3305V.

Does anyone think I will have to purchase any additional relays? How does my setup look; do I have everything I need or was there something I overlooked? I have plenty of wiring, taps, solder, heat shrink, etc, etc.

Also, any other suggestions anyone has would be greatly appreciated. I plan on taking my time with this and go step, by step, by step just like anything else I do the first time and double and triple check my work.

Sorry for the long post, but I have done at least two weekends worth of research and have found a lot of info, but none of it comes together (different car/wiring/setup but same alarm, different DEI accessories, different alarm/remote start but the same car). Again, thank you in advance!

-Anthony

Bump?

Even if someone doesn't have an answer for each individual question, if you have the answer to one, the help would be much appreciated...

Thanks in advance,
-Anthony

zx10rarcher wrote:

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Issues:
I have been putting off this install for a few weeks now while trying to research the install. From what I have read the Responder 350 lacks a Data-2-Data port, so I cannot use D2D and will have to use W2W which isn't an issue for me. Is this correct?
W2W is your best option regardless. DEI D2D is very unreliable and leaves very limited diagnostic abilities down the road.

According to Viper, this unit has two aux inputs; hence why I bought both the 508D and 506T. Yet, I only see one aux input on the unit. From the research I've done, I am able to splice one of these in to other wiring. I also read in the manual I am not to plug any high current draw device into the Aux port so this would eliminate the motion sensor from being plugged into the unit. So the glass break sensor would be plugged into the auxillary port while the motion sensor would have to be spliced... correct?
Yes, hardwire the power to the motion sensor and then use diodes to connect both sensors to the aux trigger inputs.

Regarding placement of the motion sensor... The center console in my vehicle is mostly covered by my seats. There is a small space under neath my front cup holders and shifter I could place this. The center console ends where the front seats end so I can't place it in the center of the vehicle on the floor. Although, I could lengthen wires easily, and put it inside the headliner. Thoughts? What are the limitations on this unit? How much plastic, leather, etc will this go through yet still be effective?
From what I have heard, the headliner is the best location for the motion sensors.

Regarding the placement of the brain... I have heard some say go ahead and mount it to metal yet I have read in the manual (and online) to mount it to carpet. Opinions? The more sensitive... the better.
I'm assuming that unit has a built in shock sensor? If so, you usually want to zip-tie it to a harness under the dash. The problem with hard mounting it is that it can cause multiple false alarms.

Finally regarding wiring of the DBALL and 3305V... What is the unit that interfaces with the vehicle for the most part? To me it seems like the DBALL. So how I have it in my mind... is I wire something like this:
|Truck Wiring|<-->DBALL<-->3305V<--506T and 508D and any wiring not used by the DBALL
Am I correct with this assumption? So most wiring to/from the vehicle harness would be handled by the DBALL. Any that isn't, will be wired up to the alarm brain. The glass break sensor will connect to the 3305 brain via the auxillary port while the glass break sensor will have to be spliced into other wiring coming to/from the 3305V.
The DB-ALL will cover most connections on that car. You will need to hardwire the parking lights, hood pin, and tach (remote start only) directly from the brain to the vehicle. Main power / ignition connections will also directly from the brain to the vehicle. If the unit has remote start capabilities, you might as well install it. It only requires a couple more connections and would be a waste to not include it.

Does anyone think I will have to purchase any additional relays? How does my setup look; do I have everything I need or was there something I overlooked? I have plenty of wiring, taps, solder, heat shrink, etc, etc.
DO NOT USE T-TAPS!!! The only connector you should use for the install is a ring terminal for the ground connection. I don't have the diagram at the moment for that car, but if you do decide to connect the remote starter capability, then you may need a relay or 2 for the additional ignition/accessory circuits.

Also, any other suggestions anyone has would be greatly appreciated. I plan on taking my time with this and go step, by step, by step just like anything else I do the first time and double and triple check my work.
Take your time, solder and tape everything tightly, and use a good quality 3M tape.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Kenny-

Thank you thank you thank you thank you for the advice. It was greatly appreciated.

I won't get to installing it this weekend though. My girl is coming back from a week vacation back home in MN and yeah... We need our time alone haha. So maybe next weekend or the weekend after. I guess we'll see.

Again, thank you for the response.

Okay, so I have been reading and doing some research and I think I have it figured out... I have a spreadsheet with my wiring. Could someone please look at it and verify?
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhjIOEtddZUzdHZqU21jQzMwNU5DZ00zUE9ESXF6clE

I have included all the wiring from the Xpresskit diagram made specifically for Trailblazers. Some of them seem unneeded (Trunk status, Tach, Starter Input, Trunk Release Input) since I am not using the Smartstart feature and I don't have trunk release. The other wires in question are GWR status and door status. I don't know what to do with these two wires. And the ignition input... shouldn't that go to the Viper brain? Or am I tapping both the Viper and DB-All on to that single wire in the vehicle harness?

The Viper seems pretty straight forward. 12V and ground, brown to positive siren lead, ignition wire, - parking light flash, - door lock/unlock to the DB-ALL, etc, etc. I am plugging in the glass break sensor into the aux port, and then I am going to splice the green and blue wiring from the motion detector (having the diodes band facing away from the brain) while the red and black are getting 12V and ground from the vehicle. LED, 2 way antenna, valet switch... all straight forward.

Anyways, if someone could please look over my wiring diagram and give me any corrections or point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

Bump? Anyone have a chance to look at my wiring schematic?

Noticed a common error quickly.  H1/1 Ground When Armed does not go to DB-ALL Ground When Running.  The DB-All would use a GWR input from a Remote Start system during a remote start-up.  Your Viper unit is an alarm only.

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Soldering is fun!

Copy.

I didn't know where it went or if it was even used. It was listed on the schematic for the DB-ALL hooked up so I just left it.

Other than that anything else catch your eye?

Two things. ( Never used a DB-ALL on a Trailblazer.)

The DB-ALL outputs a Trunk Status signal.  You should monitor this with the alarm system. 
There are several ways to do this.

The DB-ALL Install Guide indicates that its' Door Status output signal is monitoring only the
front doors.  I would verify this and, if necessary, find a way to monitor the rear doors also.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah I am sort of wishing I would've gone with a different module :( But I went with what the Viper rep told me to go with. I think when I purchased it they were in between their old GM module and the new one.

I looked and I didn't see anything in the install guide about it monitoring only the front doors. I tried Googling as well and it didn't pull up anything.

As far as the trunk status signal goes, can I wire the trunk status output of the DB-ALL to the H1/6 Blue -Instant Trigger Input, Zone 1 on the 3305V?

What about the GREEN / WHITE: (-) Door Status Output on the DB-ALL; is that fine going to the H1/5 Green // - Door Trigger Input, Zone 3 on the 3305V?

I apologize for the questions, its my first alarm install and I would like to learn. I have been doing stereo installs since I was 12 and I am an EE by trade, but some of their documentation is enough to even through me for a loop. I don't know if its just the two products I am using or what but man, it almost drives me to drink haha.

I got some help from the Trailblazer forums and think I have it down pat.

If someone could verify my wiring it would be much appreciated.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhjIOEtddZUzdHZqU21jQzMwNU5DZ00zUE9ESXF6clE

I am creating a write up taking pics at every step and will be posting it to Trailvoy... If someone can verify my wiring and give me their blessing, I would be more than happy and willing to share it here for future reference.

Thanks in advance,
-Anthony

Two both of your questions...yes that is what you do. ALL modules in the market do not monitor the 2 door triggers in the back when the vehicle is off. You need to tag each trigger individually from the doors in the back and diode isolate them to the green wire input on the viper alarm. Your best bet to getting these wires is to follow the grommet on each door where they are going in the vehicle and tag them there.

Enice:

So you're saying I need to find the negative door trigger for each door, put a diode on each of the doors and splice all four into the Viper alarm? Or just hook it up as is in my spreadsheeet, and diode isolate only the rear two doors and connect those into the Viper?

And the diode, since it's a negative door trigger, I am guess I need to put the cathode (negative) side facing away from the alarm? Sort of like this?
|\| S1 ----> |< D1 Diode (1N40004) ---> Viper - Door Trigger

yes, just the back doors you look for. The module will give you the front 2.

Cool thanks Enice. I will update my wiring schematic as needed.

So just to double check.
H1/5 Viper (green; - door trigger input, zone 3//Front doors) <--> DB-ALL 12 pin connector/pin 3 (GREEN / WHITE; - door status output) and then splice in the left rear door negative trigger (blue/black from vehicle harness) with anode on the alarm side, cathode on door side as well as splice in the right rear door negative trigger (GREEN/ black from vehicle harness) with anode on the alarm side, cathode on door side.