Printer Friendly Forum Posts - intellistart 4 problems

First post here but been reading a lot about installation
First alarm/remote start install

Car: 1995 Honda Civic 2-Door Coupe (US) Manual Trans
Alarm: Clifford Avantguard 5.1

I installed the AG5.1 and all turned out good (i think)
Car used to have Intelliguard 700IQ installed

Installed the Intellistart MT mode (BLACK/ green not connected)

short stop works
brake shut off works
parking brake safety works
clutch bypass seems to work because it cranks

Problem is when I try to remote start, engine cranks but dies right away and alarm siren goes on

any info or help is greatly appreciated
TIA

Does your ignition wire (larger AWG BLACK / YELLOW at ignition switch) see 12v before the vehicle goes to crank?

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

check the shutdown diagnostics, that should give you some indication as to where the problem may be.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

thanks for the input guys
Ill check those out this weekend
and get back with my findings

and one more question,
can i extend the dataport cable? im planning to add smart windows and might have to put SW4 module some other area of vehicle. worried data cable is not going to be long enough.

forgot to add:
- i have DEI battery back-up also (not sure if that matters though LOL)
- i also have the cliff net wizard (consumer) but scared to plug it in because i read some about the problems with G5/IS4 on it

thanks again

You can extend, only 2 wires, though a 530t is better than an SW4.
I seem to remember having a similar problem with an Integra, I think ACC1 or 2 might need to be relay disconnected during rem start.
Can you list what you joined to where, otherwise we can't help you.
N.B. Whizz is totally incompatible with G5

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm guessing ignition wire incorrectly wired,
N.B. How do you know brake shut-off and parking brake safety work if you can't make it R/S in the first place?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howe has a point, I was thinking it must be a brake shutdown error

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

thanks again for the replies

in short stop mode - pressing the * button then taking key out (which works)
If I step on brake, engine shuts off
If I put parking brake down, engine shuts off
that's how it suppose to work right? posted_image

BTW, car starts fine with key

Ill get back with you guys on the wirings this weekend
Cant check on the car on the weekdays posted_image

@Howie - any more info about the ACC relay disconnect?

TIA

Can't help till you list your wiring, I'm leaning more and more towards vehicle ignition.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

P.S. All the reading in the world is as nothing till you pull down that first panel, start looking for your wiring and swallow.....

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

P.P.S. the only rally relevant wires for an R/S in a 95 Honda...
White = 12V+ at ignition loom
BLACK/ white =start ditto
BLACK / YELLOW = ignition ditto
Hood switch
Green or GREEN / WHITE at brake switch (test, it's the switched or bulb side).
Blue, tach at plug in loom by suspension strut or at coil or at rear of tach gauge.
All of the above correctly wired will enable your remote start for testing.
Get the above done first.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

thanks Howie
I will do that this weekend

Will report it back here

Really appreciate the replies

With that set-up, all the common wiring such as foot brake and tach, hood switch etc. for which you have wiring on both the 5.1 AND the I/start, take it all to the 5.1 except the tach which goes to the I/Start.
TAKE CARE the I/Start uses a BLACK/ grey wire which unless you are VERY careful you can mistake for the black ground wire. Your alarm/RS combo has for many years been the only unit available in the UK so I'm giving you these specific instructions based on hard earned and sometimes bitter experience.
IMO apart from the very latest Compustar, this is still the best product on the market and for reliability will kick the other branded DEI product all over the market place.
OK, no fancy 2-way remotes, no million mile range but it works and it works well.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

heres what i can recall from wires without going to physically check

tach wire - connected at rear of gauge cluster. Im doing a s2000 cluster swap also
parking brake wire - tapped to wire close to park brake switch
brake light - switch on top of brake pedal
and i know i used the 5.1 wires if theres a common wire to IS4

None of which are essential for R/S, the expression "tapped to wire close to brake switch" worries me for two reasons.
How are you joining the cables?
"Tapped close to" Have you even tested?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

sorry about using the word tapped. kinda used to the word at work when doing connections into existing wires.
its soldered to the wire going to parking brake switch. about 3 inches away from switch.
and i tested with multimeter.

OK, just testing you passed, amazing how many people still think they can get away with IDC (Scotchlock type) connectors, then wonder why we won't help.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

i used to work for semiconductor company and do a lot of electrical work there
learned to make sure connections are good there
posted_image

ill check back here when i get more play time on the car though
and will double check where everything is connected and how the connections are
to make sure everything is still all right there

now i know doing too much on the car at the same is not good posted_image

and thank you so much again for the guide on the correct path

everything works good now
redid the ignition connection
relearn tach

works perfect

Thanks again for all the replies

I am having the same problem. Can you give some details on how you fixed it?

Last poster, vehicle, year make and alarm/RS please.
What are your problems?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The car is a 2000 civic ex. An intellistart 4 on an avant guard 5.1 I know I don't have an immobilizer because I hot wired it before I made the connections to the remote start. I have 2 ignitions, the acc, and the starter hooked up on the big harness (along with the power). on the small one i have the first pin to ground, the ground and power hooked up, the rpm wire ran and programed, and the wire hooked up to E brake light and the rest of the connections are made through the avantguard unit. It is all good besides the fact that it wont stay running. The short stop mode works. Only sometimes though.When I remote start it, it just dies instantly after it turns over. I Thought it was because of the RPMs at first but that wasnt it. I started it while running the 12v to the ignition and it stayed running. So either it is turning the ignition off or not keeping it powered.
It is running like it is in an automatic but it is actually in a manual. I used a clutch bypass.I have neutral safety precautions. don't worry. I also tried running it with the e brake wire grounded and it still did the same thing.
I didn't hook up the hood pin or the brake light wire because it said it wasn't needed if it was already made through the alarm.

Any ideas on what the problem is? Here's the guide.

https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/clifford/N909005_12-05.pdf

2 things come to mind:
1)There's an immobiliser and you've missed it.
2)You've wired the ignition wrong. Vehicle ignition is BLACK / YELLOW, connected to I/Start GREEN/ blue.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The only immobilizer is on the alarm and I wired on the ignition side of the immobilizer. Wouldn't it stop it from turning over too? And since it's on the ignition side, wpuldn't it bypass it? I connected the WHITE/ blue wire to the starter and GREEN/ blue to ignition. It works fine when I run 12v to the ignition wire and then run 12v to the starter until it turns over.

Check your fuses and your outputs when you try to start.
The sequence should be warning lights after 1 second then start after about 3 seconds.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Did you cut either the vehicle starter or ignition wires?
Also the unit (AG 5.1) has to see an ignition input.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What do you mean? I cut both the ignition and starter wires when installing the ag5.1 for the starter kill and when installing the is4.

Make sure they are sided, i.e GREEN/ blue from i/start to 5.1, ignition, coil side, wire is BLACK / YELLOW on Honda.
WHITE/ blue from intellistart to starter side of starter cut, AG 5.1, wire is BLACK/ white.
One ACC may be wired up as ignition 2 (use the radio feed as ACC 1, the other as ign 2).
This diagram might help.istart_4_to_honda.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Oh crap. So the wires should not be on the side when I turn the keys? Because I put them on that side. They should be on the side that goes towards the fuze box? Is that the problem? And when I took the white wire and ran a lead to the ignition and starter it still worked. How would this change when the is4 is doing it and not me?