2008 saab 9 3

My mother-in-law just bought a 2008 Saab 9-3 and will be picking it up this week. I am 99% sure she is going to be asking me to put a starter in it so I decided to get the jump on researching everything... and have not had much luck. I found the wiring info on readyremote and its looking like its a (-) start, or is it a cobalt/ion style where the bcm takes over with a drop in accessory. Also, the parking lights appear to be multiplex (or at least require a relay to open from the switch), and resistor locks inside the door. I also don't see anything listed for a bypass which I find really hard to believe. So am I looking at a universal bypass only on this or does it really not require a bypass? I would love to find a data solution so I don't have to deal with the locks inside the door and the (-) starter... but I'm not seeing anything.

Anyone have some insight on this car?
Thanks in advance.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The wiring is hybrid Euro GM (Opel/Vauxhall) overlaid with Saab's own colours. Which are just like a good old NTSC TV, never the same colour twice, a Euro disease that Saab and Volvo caught from the French!
Some models had alarm (not RS) connections, lights and locks included under the driver's seat.
From memory I used a 5565U.
What's the spares situation on those cars?
Will you be able to get parts in a couple of years, especially now that GM Europe is also in the smelly stuff?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So what you are telling me is that I'm in for a wild ride if I decide to take this bull by the horns??? haha. And what exactly do you mean by the hybrid Euro/GM? Is it a cobalt/ion style starting system with no start connection required or do I have to use the 2nd 2nd start output, or do I have to use a relay?

No idea on the spares / parts situation. It sounds like she is only planning on keeping it a few years to help get some stuff paid off (she is paying cash so it will get rid of her car payment).

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

No leans more towards Euro GM (just like VW) than US vehicles of a similar shape.
Do you want the Directechs sheet? I can upload it to the Downloads/Manuals section if you want.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

That would be great if you don't mind. And call me a noob, but I haven't done many of the new vw's yet. How does the (-) start get connected? Will the 2nd start output (say 200ma) be enough or does it need a relay?
Thanks for the help howie!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i started this vehicle, and my other installer friend finished it, as he did a few. not the easiest car, but do-able. no bypass solutions so a key in box is the only solution.

i used the directed info at the time and it wasn't accurate at all. instead, i used the installogy wiring guide instead. much more accurate and wire colours were correct (could have been location) i will upload a copy when i get a chance kenny.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

DONE.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you both. She hasn't even officially asked me to do it yet, but I've put one in every one of her last 3 or 4 cars so I'm assuming she is going to have one put in here also. The only difference is that this one may not come with free labor... lol.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

No free labour? Do you realise what that will cost in the long term?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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No free labour? Do you realise what that will cost in the long term?

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I think it will depend on how it turns out.

She did finally ask me about it so time to really start digging into this.

1) If anyone has done one and can give ANY insight I would greatly appreciate it.

2) How exactly do I need to connect the ignition/starting wires. Will the (-)200ma output work or will I need to convert the heavy gauge (+) to (-) for the starter?

3) On the DEI sheet Howie uploaded, it says that the keysense has to be powered up "before" the ignition; does it really have to be powered up BEFORE the ignition or can I connect it as a 2nd ignition? If it does have to come up BEFORE, how can I accomplish the pre-power on the keysense or the delay to the ignition? Can I use the status output to drive a relay to power the keysense??? The status output comes "live" before the ignition... correct?

4) It says that the hood pin switch needs to be isolated from the BCM... the hood pin should be an input to the remote starter so I'm a little confused as to why the isolation is required?? If it were a matter of preventing back-feed couldn't I just use a diode?

Any insight or tips are appreciated. There have been VERY few cars that have made me nervous working on and this is one of them... haha. And I don't like going into an install nervous b/c that is when mistakes happen.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Sudden free holiday.
Pull a sickie.
Get divorced.
Change occupation crew on a nuclear sub, work on an oil rig in the Gulf...NOW.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

On most all quality remote starters, the GWR signal does indeed come on before the R/S brings up the main ignition wire.  You should be
OK using GWR to control a relay for the Keysense wire.

On the Hood Pin Switch, I believe they are referring to the Factory Hood Pin Switch.  If you tap into that for your R/S Hood Status
input, isolate away from the BCM.  Think I would just install my own Hood Pin Switch for the R/S's use and stay away from the
Factory one.

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Soldering is fun!

howie ll wrote:

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Sudden free holiday.
Pull a sickie.
Get divorced.
Change occupation crew on a nuclear sub, work on an oil rig in the Gulf...NOW.

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Cocaine is a hell of a drug... haha. I understood not a single darn thing you were getting at.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

kreg357 wrote:

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On most all quality remote starters, the GWR signal does indeed come on before the R/S brings up the main ignition wire.  You should be
OK using GWR to control a relay for the Keysense wire.

On the Hood Pin Switch, I believe they are referring to the Factory Hood Pin Switch.  If you tap into that for your R/S Hood Status
input, isolate away from the BCM.  Think I would just install my own Hood Pin Switch for the R/S's use and stay away from the
Factory one.

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Now that I think of it, that does make sense. Otherwise on Toyota's, disarming with the GWR to the key-sense would not work if the GWR and ignition came on at the same time. I'll probably just go ahead and do it that way to play it safe... especially since with the Compustar I would have to add a relay anyways for the 2nd ignition.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Bloody cheek Kenny, I don't drink or do drugs and gave up smoking 6 weeks ago!
I was just giving you some viable get-outs against doing the job.
By the way, Kreg seems to have the answer.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Bloody cheek Kenny, I don't drink or do drugs and gave up smoking 6 weeks ago!
I was just giving you some viable get-outs against doing the job.
By the way, Kreg seems to have the answer.

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Ahh gotcha. If I told her I couldn't do it, she'd be fine with it... I'm just trying to be the hero here. haha.

Now what about the (-) start... is it low current or high current? (ie relay or (-)200ma start output)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

So after trying to constantly change the subject whenever it was brought up, I finally have to actually give her an answer on this car... lol. Anyone have the info on the (-) start wire yet? Is connection required for remote start and if so, is it a high current or low current draw?
Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure I'm going to tell her I can give it a go, but that I can't make any promises.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Well this one might be nipped in the butt anyways. I told her I would give it a shot, but that I needed a key for the bypass. Apparently she only has 1 key and a 2nd key is over $800... lol.

I would still like to know about the starter for future reference though (if someone has an answer). Any input?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205