info needed, door trigger
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131059
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 11:06 PM
Topic: info needed, door trigger
Posted By: starplayerzz
Subject: info needed, door trigger
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 12:46 AM
my door trigger is wired to the negative output of my alarm. the sirem trips off when the door is closed and not when it is open. does that mean i need to wire it to the positive door trigger output form the alarm
Replies:
Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 5:34 AM
Did you test the trigger wire before hooking into it ? If not testing will answer that question for you
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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe
Posted By: starplayerzz
Date Posted: March 28, 2012 at 7:40 AM
no i didnt test it im gonna test it now
Posted By: starplayerzz
Date Posted: March 29, 2012 at 12:45 AM
okay i tested it its a negative trigger i hooked it up to the negative trigger input on my alarm but the siren still trips off when i close my door.
Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 29, 2012 at 6:59 AM
What kind of car are we working on ?
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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe
Posted By: starplayerzz
Date Posted: March 29, 2012 at 8:00 AM
mazda 626 dont really know the exact year. the alarm is a prestige APS 25C
Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: March 29, 2012 at 8:52 AM
The door triggers are likely open, not negative. Meaning they rest at ground (explaining your false trigger with the door closed). If you tested properly with a volt meter you would have seen this, even if you hadnt read the notes in the wiring diagrams. Someone will post the diagram shortly I am sure.
Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 29, 2012 at 9:01 AM
All my sheets says its a RED / white at the fuse box what are you using ?
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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe
Posted By: starplayerzz
Date Posted: March 30, 2012 at 9:32 AM
i am using that sane wire
Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 30, 2012 at 12:13 PM
How did you test it ? where were your leads ?
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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: March 31, 2012 at 4:08 AM
It can't be a wire at the fusebox, that will always be 12V (unless the fuse is blown).
I presume you have swapped inputs (ie, tried +ve trigger).
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 01, 2012 at 3:23 AM
Peter it can if there's a processor/timer involved, all Toyotas and VW Golf/Jetta, Fiat Punto Hondas at least, top of my head work this way.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: April 01, 2012 at 7:08 AM
Your experience outranks my theory.
I'd be curious how (unless I misinterpreted) - sensing IMO would have to be current, hence an inserted shunt or loop sensor unless comparing voltage drops between processor +12V and the downstream fuse end.
There are other methods, but I didn't think they'd be used (ie, requiring processors, but since they are now being used, maybe products have finally caught up with "old" methods...?)
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 01, 2012 at 8:35 AM
I'll email you on this one Peter.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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