autopage c3 rs 730 lock/ unlock

I have just installed the autopage c3 rs-730 onto a 2006 Ford F-350 6.0 Diesel, and the remote will lock the doors but will not unlock the doors. I tapped into the WHITE/ Red and BLACK/ White wires in the drivers kick panel. I thought that Fords had negative trigger door lock system but I could be wrong. Also I'm not sure if I tapped into the correct Door Trigger. I used the BLACK/ Light blue Domelight Supervision wire.

Currently the 2-way remote does not show any doors opened when they are open except the hood. Any advice would be much appreciated as I am kinda stuck right now.

Thank you

The install manual can be found here:
https://www.autopageusa.com/resources/C3-RS-730install1.pdf

Okay so here is an update...

I found the schematics on page 14 of the manual in the previous link.

This is the DMM readings I am getting... With doors locked; I measure volts at unlock wire and read 0 and Lock reads 12v.. When unlock switch is engaged Unlick now reads 12V and Lock reads 0... To me that would be a ground switched Door lock. Can someone please verify if the truck is an alternating Door lock system or do I have it correct? And should I be using the "2 Step Door Unlock Wire Connection" Schematic on page 14 of the manual?

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thank you

Here is a note from Bulldog Security  on the 2006 Super Duty locks:

POWER LOCK          PINK / YELLOW (TYPE C), See NOTE #3   in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS
POWER UNLOCK      PINK/LIGHT GREEN (TYPE C), See NOTE #3       in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS

 
NOTE #3: Vehicles WITHOUT a FACTORY KEYLESS Entry Remote Control are a TYPE "C" Door
 Locking System. Vehicles WITH a FACTORY KEYLESS Entry Remote Control are a
 TYPE "B" Door Locking System and the LOCK wire is a WHITE/ RED (TYPE B) and the
 UNLOCK is a BLACK/ WHITE TYPE B), BOTH are located in the Drivers Kick Panel, at the
 Door Harness.

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Soldering is fun!

If you have Type C locks, you would need relays and follow the 5 Wire diagram on Page 13.  ( A DEI 451M module would make things easier.)

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Soldering is fun!

This vehicle is equipped with a factory keyless entry. So i would assume it is a type B. I found out that the alarm itself isn't sending the pulse out on the "H4 3 Pin door lock connector. Currently going back through to make sure all
Connections are correct.. Any ideas as to why it wouldnt be sending the pulse from the brain of the alarm? Other than being defective...
Thank you so much for your help thus far

Looks like the door lock outputs are push-pull.  ( Not an Autopage installer )  Perhaps a diode is in order.  Try a 1N400x diode on the output wires with the band towards the R/S brain.  This will allow only the needed (-) signal thru to the truck.  You can test the unattached wire with a DMM.  Set to 20V DC and connect the Black lead to the R/S lock ( or unlock ) wire and the Red lead to +12V constant.  Press the lock ( or unlock ) button and you should see a +12V pulse for .8 second.  Also verify the Black Main System Ground wire has a good solid frame connection.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you... I was putting the Pos lead to the wire instead of the negative lead. Probably why I wasn't reading the pulse. I will try shooting it correctly tomorrow. Calling it a night. I'll post first thing in the morning the results.

Okay... So I hooked the DMM positive up to a constant 12V power source and the negative to the RS leads. And the blue wire reads 12V while unlocking. And the Green wire reads 12v while locking... Seems that the unit is indeed sending the correct pulse out. But when I connect it to the truck... Only the lock function works...

The door locks on the truck read on the DMM both positive AND negative volts for about 10 seconds when shooting each wire and engaging the switch for Lock and the unlock.

So why wouldn't the negative pulse being sent by the RS not work? Should I Diode the Unlock wire, only, to make it positive?

I also checked the ground and it is a solid ground.

Also, in looking at my wiring I didn't hook up the pink wire ( H6/3 on the 20 pin connector) on page 9 of the manual... I'm wondering if that's why it's not unlocking...

It doesn't say what to hook it up to though? Where would I hook that wire to?

I would use a diode on both Lock and Unlock outputs.  If you are absolutely certain you have the correct BLACK/ White
Unlock wire, you can test as follows.  Use a jumper with one end on chassis ground and the end other touch to the
BLACK/ White Unlock wire.  ( A 1 Amp fuse in the jumper will add some safety.)  The doors should unlock.  That will
prove you have the correct wire and the Autopage Unlock output is bad.

Here is some additional info from DEI for another location for the wires and a note about the unlock going to sleep.

Vehicles with keyless entry, the lock wire is WHITE/ red (-), in the driver kick, door harness or also at the VSM, gray plug, pin 3.
Vehicles with keyless entry, the unlock wire is BLACK/ white (-), in the driver kick, door harness or also at the VSM, gray plug, pin 2.

The VSM (Vehicle Security Module) is to the right of the accelerator pedal above the transmission hump below the radio.
Not accessible from radio opening.

Vehicles with keyless entry the VSM shuts down after the doors have been locked for a certain time period, to wake up the
system refer to Tech Doc 1094.

Tech Tip 1094 can be found here :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1077

Don't think H6/3 isn't an issue here.  It's used for "progressive unlocking".

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Soldering is fun!

I grounded the wire out as you said and the doors unlock, so I have the correct black white wire. I also went out after about 15 minutes of looking through the schematics and tried to unlock and it worked!! but then a few minutes later it did not work again. I will try and find the yellow black wire like it reads on "Tech tip 1094" and follow up.


I thank you repeatedly for your help.

This is what the note reads on Tech Tip 1094:
NOTE: When testing the Door Ajar wire, it will rest at ground when the door is closed and pulse to (+) 12
volt when the door opens then return to ground. This diagram will also activate the dome light upon unlock.

I checked the yellow black wire from the door latch and it was actually the opposite.
It rests at ground when the door is open. Then when closed it pulses to 12 V+ then returns to ground.

Since it does opposite what then note reads does this mean I would have to wire the relay differently? ie: reversing the connections at the relay at 87a and 30.

There appears to be conflicting info for the Door Trigger wires.  DEI says they are ground when closed and Audiovox says they are ground when open.  Bulldog and Omega don't even list them.  I would go with the DEI info and wire it up that way and see if it allows an unlock consistently.  It won't cause and problems or damage.( I haven't done a 2006 F350.) 

Here is some more info from DEI :

The individual door trigger wires rest at ground and go to open circuit when the doors are opened.

On vehicles without keyless entry, the wires are in each kick or at the instrument cluster, blue plug.
The driver door is lt. GREEN/ YELLOW in pin 24. The passenger door(s) is pink/lt. blue in pin 23.

On vehicles with keyless entry, the wires are in each kick or at the VSM, gray plug. The LF door is
yellow/black in pin 4. The RF door is gray/red in pin 5. The LR door is lt. GREEN/ YELLOW in pin 11.
The RR door is pink/lt. blue in pin 6.

The VSM (Vehicle Security Module) is to the right of the accelerator pedal above the transmission
hump below the radio. Not accessible from radio opening.

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Soldering is fun!

sooo, if the f350 has factory keyless entry, why are you still using the anything other than the pink / YELLOW and pink/green wires? these are the wire colors that are most common amongst newer ford models. autopage is nothing special, ive installed a few of them, the outputs of the alarm are negative/positive trigger on either wire. as long as you dont need any relays to make a more solid, powerful connection then that should be all you need. you should be able to find these wires in the drivers kick panel or along the drivers running board. these wires are usually found close to each other in the wire harness.

the BLACK/ lt.blue wire should be useful as a door trigger. this is the factory dome light trigger wire. i use this all the time as a door trigger. perhaps it might be BLACK / YELLOW, and if this is the case then you need to be extra careful and make sure you test the wire for proper door trigger operation. i had a case once on an f150 where the BLACK / YELLOW wire i found was not the door trigger but it had something to do with the fuel system so you definitely need to test and confirm your wires.

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Thank you for all your help. I finally got it working. I went back through and checked all my connections and found out I had a bad connection ( rookie mistake...) . Repaired and now the door locks work like a champ.

On a side note: you mentioned to use the domelight supervision wire for the door trigger. However when I do that I have to wait like 20 seconds before I can arm the car. If I arm before light goes out it says a door is open...

I can't find the colors of the actual door triggers. Can only find the lock wire info at the VSM. Can someone please help with the trigger info so I can diode isolate the doors?

Or is there an easier solution to the domelight delay problem?

Thank you

Here is the info from DEI on the individual door triggers.  Please note that these are NOT the common style
trigger signals that show open when the door is closed and ground (-) when door is opened. 

The individual door trigger wires rest at ground and go to open circuit when the doors are opened.

On vehicles without keyless entry, the wires are in each kick or at the instrument cluster, blue plug. The driver door is
lt. GREEN/ YELLOW in pin 24. The passenger door(s) is pink/lt. blue in pin 23.

On vehicles with keyless entry, the wires are in each kick or at the VSM, gray plug. The LF door is yellow/black in pin 4.
The RF door is gray/red in pin 5. The LR door is lt. GREEN/ YELLOW in pin 11. The RR door is pink/lt. blue in pin 6.

The VSM (Vehicle Security Module) is to the right of the accelerator pedal above the transmission hump below the radio.
 Not accessible from radio opening.

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Soldering is fun!

I know this is an old thread but did you isolate your doors like in the Directed Tech Doc with 2 diodes per door ? If so did you have to use the wake up relay described in the 1094 doc also ? Alot of conflicting info on these trucks . I have a 06 superduty cc diesel with factory keyless and door key pads . Thanks for any info you can provide .