info needed for fuel pump cut off

Trying to wire a fuel pump cut-off switch for a 2006 f350 6.0 .

Can someone please help with the color and location of the fuel pump wiring?

And would it be better to create a separate switch for it or have it integrated into the alarm trigger?

Thanks

once you find the pump pos, using a standard bosch style relay, maybe wire the

pump feed to #30

pump to #87a

ground # 86

tap into the siren positive( with #86 (if you are currently using only one siren)

as an option depending on  the alarm.........power an extra siren inside the truck to #87

as long as the alarms siren is wailing, the one inside the truck will also any time thethe truck is being attempted to start.

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

Itsyuk, your post, surely ground to 85.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

oooops.
Yes. Switch my 85 and 86 numbers.
Howie, you can go back to napping now.

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

Nah, nap was this a.m. I'm playing catch-up with Madmen and Game of Thrones.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you for the help. Now I just need to find the fuel pump wire...

I think it's light blue/ orange coming from the PCM. I found a schematic on this forum:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1033445-wiring-diagram-for-fuel-pump-circuit.html

If anybody could verify it would be much appreciated

It looks like the 20A fuse (F2 40) could be used - at least on that first diagram (fuse numbers may differ on yours).
That seems to be the dedicated power fuse for the pump(s).


Otherwise, if the relay's coil side can be broken (low current & hence not needing a relay )...

Or even safer from a reliability point of view look at the inertia cut off switch, physically likely to be in or near a kick panel, the wire going to it from the control module, DG/YE (dark GREEN/ YELLOW?)use this diagram:-
fuel_cut-off.bmp
Note I've given you the option of EITHER alarm control OR a switch.
In my opinion anything that can block a moving vehicle is COMPLETELY unsafe and isn't recommended by the authorities either in the US or UK though the Australians say do it.
Be it on your head.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

That is exactly what I needed! Thank you so much for the help.

howie ll wrote:

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... though the Australians say do it.

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Eh? I know we're stupid, and our authorities often more stupid, but that?

Is there something you know that I don't (wrt vehicle immobilisation or stoppage, though I suspect you'll be proven more knowledgeable yet again!)


Not that I'd stop a petrol engine by cutting its fuel - that's a potential for severe and costly engine damage. An Ignition-Kill is the answer... (I think most know my views on using oil-pressure to control fuel pumps, and my story regarding certain Aussie morons on an "EFI hackers" site...)
As to inertia - ha! I even worry about airbags false triggering (with MY driving). Even the AbCircle-pro uses the "momentum of gravity" instead!



Damn, that makes me think of how 97% of Victorians if not all Aussies don't even know the roundabout rule for vehicles... Meanwhile our authorities blame "attitude" and speed for our accidents!
And 2 "funny"(sick) pics from a recent trip, 2 adjacent roadside signs (note too the "Wipe off 5" (LOL) - does anyone know what that means?):

UK Cat I alarms and Cat II immobilisers require 2 cuts, Oz and New Zealand 3 though frankly with the OEM immobilisers it ain't needed.
Like most experienced sparks/installers I'm loathe to make extra cuts, in fact the UK ACPO (Association of Chief Police Officers)are in agreement with their US equivalent, starter cut only.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks.
And I'm in total agreement - an open-cut can make you the coal of the future.

The starter is fair enough, that's (usually) not life threatening.

I'll usually suggest "shorting" type disablers - even then I worry that if the NC contacts (86-87a) of a relay are used and the relay de-energises or fails... (EG - grounding poins or igniters, or shorting other essential sensors.)


We used to hang horse thieves. These days when cars are cheaper than horses were, we seem to kill ourselves. And all for a "possession" that is less critical than horses were.
And these days, we even have insurance.

Thanks again.
Maybe one day I'll find out what we do for immobilisers down here...
(Surely modern OEM is enough?)