honda fit 2011 bulldog remote starter

I’m installing a remote starter on my fit and am having a few issues. I was going to post an install guide for fits, since I had difficulty finding specific info on remote starter installs for them, but I have some questions for anyone that can help. I will use abbreviations to keep this neat.

Car: Honda Fit 2011 Sport MT (US)
Remote Starter (RS): Bulldog Model Deluxe 500 Remote Starter with Keyless Entry (2 way LCD remote starter with keyless entry)
Immobilizer Bypass Module (IBM): Omega OL-DB-HA (flashed for Honda Fit, I also have a iDatalink ADS- DLSL-HA which is for another fit I’m doing next); Both have been flashed for a honda fit 2009-2011 (The installer I bought them from mailed me the printed flashed logs with the bypasses after he flashed them)

Yes it’s a MT. I installed a magnetic reed switch and rare earth magnet under the clutch to ground the Neutral Safety Switch wire when in neutral. I’ve tested this circuit with an LED for a week before installing it, and the circuit works as it should.

Diagrams & Manuals:

Bulldog
Install Manual:
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manualsnew/D500installmanuallow.pdf

Owner’s Manual:
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manualsnew/D500manuallow4-11.pdf

Quick Install Troubleshooting diagrams and wiring harnesses:
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manualsnew/deluxe500QuickStart1FINALlow.pdf

Wiring Diagram:
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

Omegalink: OL-DB-HA:
https://www.omegaweblink.com/solutions-for-vehicle/7765

iDatalink ADS-DLSL-HA: (same as Omega)
https://www.idatalink.com/search/index/model/7765

Wiring:

Honda Fit 2010 Wiring from Omega:
https://www.wiringinstructions.com/v2/wiresprint.asp?recnum=10159&printsubmit=PRINT

WIRING CHART FROM BULLDOG WEBSITE:

PART/ COLOR/ LOCATION

12 VOLT CONSTANT / WHITE (+) @ / IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 3

STARTER / PINK (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 1

STARTER 2 / N/A

IGNITION 1 / YELLOW (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 6

IGNITION 2 / N/A

IGNITION 3 / N/A

ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 / ORANGE (+) /@ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 4

ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 / RED (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 5

KEYSENSE / N/A

PARKING LIGHTS (-) / GRAY (-) / @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11

PARKING LIGHTS (+) / GRAY (+) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 42

POWER LOCK / LIGHT BLUE (TYPE B) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 8

POWER UNLOCK / GRAY (TYPE B) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 1

DOOR TRIGGER / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 33

DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 8- Pin Plug) Pin 7

TRUNK RELEASE / (LOCKS/UNLOCKS with Doors)

SLIDING POWER DOOR / N/A

HORN / ORANGE (-) @ / HORN SWITCH, (WHITE, 20-Pin Plug) Pin 1

TACH / any BROWN, RED, BLUE or YELLOW (AC) / @ FUEL-INJECTOR Harness, on Drivers side of Engine

WAIT TO START LIGHT / N/A

BRAKE / LIGHT GREEN (+) / @ BRAKE SWITCH or DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 14

FACTORY ALARM DISARM / GREEN (-), NOTE #2 / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 4

ANTI-THEFT / HONDA'S TRANSPONDER SYSTEM, See NOTE #1 / @ IGNITION TUMBLER


Below is how I have wired things based on the diagrams and instructions

Omegalink OL-DB-HA (IBM – Immobilizer Bypass Module)

4 Pin BLACK/ data Harness (4pinB)
1 Blue/White [GWR (-)] (Ground When Running) -------- RS:H7/1 Blue/Black [Ignition 3 Output]
2 No Wire
3 Black [Ground] -------- RS:H2/3 Black [System Ground]
4 Red [12V (+)] ------------- Car:White [12V+ constant] ----------RS:H1/2 Red [12v+ power input] & H1/3 Red [12v+ power input] & H2/5 Red [System +12V Constant Power]

10 pin White Harness (10pinW)
1 GREEN/ Black [Lock/Arm (-) Input] --------- RS:H6 Green [(+) Unlock Output, (-) Lock Output]
2 Blue/Black [Unlock/Disarm (-) Input] -----------RS:H6 Blue [(-) Unlock Output, (+) Lock Output]
3 RED / White [Trunk (-) Input] --------------- RS:H7/7 RED / White [Channel 3 Trunk Output]
4 Brown N/A
5 Purple / YELLOW [Ground] ------------- Car:Grounded to Body (with 7pinW: 1 BROWN / Red [Ground]
6 PURPLE / Black N/A
7 White N/A
8 BLACK/ White [Starter (+) Input] --------------- RS:H1/1 Violet [Starter Crank Output]
9 Green [Door/Trunk Status (-) Output] ----------- RS:H5/6 Green [Negative Door Input]
10 PURPLE / White N/A

3 pin Black Harness (3pinB)
1 WHITE/ Black --------------- IBM: 7pinW:2 BROWN / Yellow [Doorlock}
2 WHITE/ Red [Unlock (-) from Driver Door] -------------- Car: Gray (-) @ Dash fusebox Lt Green 12 pin Conn, Pin 1 [Unlock]
3 White [Lock (-) from Driver Door] ------------Car: Lt Blue (-) @ Dash fusebox Lt Green 12 pin Conn, Pin 8

3 pin White Harness (3pinW)
1 Yellow/Black N/A
2 Yellow/Red N/A
3 Yellow [Hood Status (-) Output] ------------------ RS:H5/1 Grey (-) [Negative Safety Shut Down for Hood Switch]

7 Pin White Harness (7pinW)
1 BROWN / Red [Ground] ------------- Car:Grounded to Body (with 10pinW:5 Purple / YELLOW [Ground]
2 BROWN / Yellow [Doorlock] ------------------------- IBM3: pinB:1 WHITE/ Black
3 ORANGE / Black [Key Data] ------------ Car: Green [Data (in Ignition Databus)] @ front of Key Cylinder Green 7 pin Conn, Pin 3
4 ORANGE / White N/A
5 Orange [SWC – Steering Wheel Control?] ------------- Car: Lt Green [SWC (in Doorlock Databus?)] @ front of Key Cylinder Green 7 pin Conn, Pin 4 *(this is the wire the Omegalink bypass diagram shows me although The wiring list form Bulldog lists things differently)
6 Pink/Black N/A
7 Pink [Ignition (+) Input] ---------- Car: Red [Ignition (in Ignition Databus)] @ front of Key Cylinder Green 7 pin Conn, Pin 2


BullDog Deluxe 500 Remote Start Wiring:

[B}H1/__ White 6 pin Harness
1 VIOLET [Starter Output] --------------- IBM: 10pinW: 8 BLACK/ White [Starter (+) Input]
2 RED [ (+) 12 v Input] with 20Amp fuse--------------- Car: 12 VOLT CONSTANT / WHITE (+) @ / IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 3
3 RED [ (+) 12 v Input] with 20Amp fuse --------------- Car: 12 VOLT CONSTANT / WHITE (+) @ / IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 3
4 YELLOW [Ignition 1 Output] -------------- IGNITION 1 / YELLOW (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 6
5 PINK [Ignition 2 Output] ------------ ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 / RED (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 5
6 BROWN [Acc/Heater Output] ------------ ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 / ORANGE (+) /@ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 4

H2/__ 5White 5 pin Harness
1 RED / WHITE [Parking Light Relay Power Input] with 10Amp fuse --------- (Not connected to anything except the 10Amp fuse it’s in line with to 12 V + Power)
2 WHITE [Parking Light Relay Output] ------------ (Not connected to anything yet as I didn’t figure out the parking lights, but didn’t need it to test the other wires)
3 BLACK [Ground to Vehicles Body] ------------ IBM: 4pinB: 3 Black [Ground]
4 BROWN [ (-) Horn Output] --------------- Car: HORN / ORANGE (-) @ / HORN SWITCH, (WHITE, 20-Pin Plug) Pin 1
5 RED [ (+) 12 v Input] with 3Amp fuse----------- Car: 12 VOLT CONSTANT / WHITE (+) @ / IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 3

H3 – N/A

[B}H4 – 4 pin Antenna

H5/__ Black 9 pin Harness
1 GREY [ (-) Negative Safety Shut Down for Hood pin Switch] --------- IBM: 3pinW: 3 Yellow [Hood Status (-) Output]
2 BROWN / RED [ (+) Positive Safety Shut Down for Brake] ------------ Car: BRAKE / LIGHT GREEN (+) / @ BRAKE SWITCH (*NOT DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 14 *(There are 2 Lt Green wires at the Brake switch. I connected it to the one towards the passenger’s side)
3 Thin BLACK [ (-) Neutral Safety Switch to Body Ground] ------------- (through magnetic reed switch) -------------Car: Grounded on Body
4 BLUE/WHITE – N/A
5 GREY/BLACK [ (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input] -----------X (Not Connected)
6 GREEN [ (-) Negative Door pin Input] ------------- IBM: 10pinW: 9 Green [Door/Trunk Status (-) Output]
7 VIOLET [ (+) Positive Door pin Input] ----------X (Not Connected)
8 WHITE/ BLACK [ (-) Instant Start & Turn off Input] -------------X (Not Connected)
9 VIOLET/WHITE [ Tach Input] ------------- *(through hole in firewall of passenger’s side) -------------- Car: LT BLUE Wire in hosing to fuel injectors on drive’s side of engine *(I tested this wire with a multimeter and it shows increased AC voltage with accelerating on the gas; I’ve seen this wire listed in wiring diagrams for the Fit by other companies; I could have connected to one of the fuel injector wires, but couldn’t get a good reading on the multimeter like I did with this)

H6/__ White 6 pin (2 wires) Harness
1 BLUE [ (-) Unlock Output, (+) Lock Output] --------- IBM: 10pinW: 2 Blue/Black [Unlock/Disarm (-) Input]
2 GREEN [ (+) Unlock Output, (-) Lock Output] ---------- IBM: 10pinW: 1 GREEN/ Black [Lock/Arm (-) Input]

H7/__ White 10 pin Harness
1 BLUE/BLACK [ (-) 200mA Ignition 3 Control Output] -------- IBM: 4pinB: 1 Blue/White [GWR (-)] (Ground When Running)
2 BLACK/ VIOLET [ (-) 200 mA Channel 6 Programmable Output] ---------X (Not Connected)
3 BROWN / BLACK [ (-) 200mA Programmable Output : Horn Output OR FACTORY SECURITY REARM Out] ---------- Car: VIOLET (-) [OEM Alarm Arm] @ Dash fusebox Lt Green 12 Pin Conn, Pin 3 *(I used Omega’s Wiring instructions sheet to find this wire; I’m also wiring this for the Factory Security Rearm Output)
4 BLACK/ WHITE [ (-) 200mA Domelight Supervision Output] ---------- DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 8- Pin Plug) Pin 7
5 BLACK/ RED [ (-) 200mA Channel 5 Programmable Output] -------X (Not Connected)
6 PURPLE / BLACK [ (-) 200 mA Programmable Output: Channel 4 Output OR Ground Output during crank] ---------X (Not Connected)
7 RED / WHITE [ (-) 200 mA Channel 3 –Trunk- Output] -----------X (Not Connected) (As there’s no latch release wiring trigger for the fit trunk, just the manual latch on the trunk itself)
8 LT GREEN/ BLACK [ (-) Dual pulse door unlock output OR –FACTORY DISARM OUTPUT – OR Start status shock sensor bypass control output] ---------- FACTORY ALARM DISARM / GREEN (-), NOTE #2 / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 4 *( I’m using this for the Factory Disarm output)
9 ORANGE / WHITE [ (-) 200 mA Grounded output when disarmed] ---------X (Not Connected)
10 ORANGE [ (-) 500mA Grounded output when armed] ---------X (Not Connected)

H8 – Blue 2 pin Valet/Program Button

H9 – White 2 pin LED

The bypass is connected in Hardwire mode (wires connected individually, rather than using the Data-to-Data cable, as the Bulldog doesn’t support seem to have a 4 pin plug to support this). I confirmed 12v in all my 12v wires from remote starter and bypass. I was able to get both the bypass and remote started to power on. I used both bypasses in turn, and they show either a red solid LED or flashing green LED after turning off the ignition. I was able to get the remote starter to try to start the car once, but the interior dash lights just flashed until I unplugged the power to the remote starter and bypass, but the car did not try to turn over. My bypasses were flashed for a Honda Fit 2009-2011, but the print out from being flashed showed that there was no installation type selected. I'm wondering if this could be part of the problem. I'm using a hardwire installation, and there is also a data-to-data (D2D) type of installation which the Bulldog is not compatible with as it doesn't have a 4 in D2D port.

I tried another day to see if I could get things working. Same wiring connections. When I turn the key to "ON" the "key" dashlight indicator comes on, but not every time. If I try to start the car when this light's flashing it won't start. When the light doesn't flash, the car starts normally.   The bypass LED stays lit GREEN for 2 seconds after taking the key out of the ignition each time.

The car works normally after disconnecting the starter and bypass, and entering the radio security code due to the battery disconnection I performed as if I never did anything to the car aside from the harness wires being cluttered and hidden. I have another remote start unit to try to connect as well, but haven't opened t to try it out as I may return it if I can't get this one working.

Questions:
.......Overall what am I doing wrong? I have more specific questions below.

1. How to wire the bypass module (see diagram) – left side of wiring diagram shows wiring directly to remote starter (4pinB, 10pinW) with ground being the exception. Is this correct or do these connections need to be made to the car as well? ( I did connect the 12v wires form the RS and IBM to a 12v wire in the car cause they obviously need to get power. Are any other wires from the IBM to the RS also supposed to be connected to something else? such as a ground?0

2. Do I need to connect the harnesses to the IBM in any specific order? – such as 4pinB/data (which has power) then the others?

3. There’s nothing connected to the STARTER / PINK (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH since the IBM connects to the Red [Ignition (in Ignition Databus)] @ front of Key Cylinder Green 7 pin Conn, Pin 2
Should something be connected to the PINK starter wire of the Ignition switch? Or is the Ignition Databus sufficient?

4. How do I wire the H2/2 Parking Light Relay Output?   Which parking light wire is this connected to? ….PARKING LIGHTS (-) / GRAY (-) / @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11? This wire is close to the wiring for the airbags, and I’ don’t want them to go off. or does this get connected to PARKING LIGHTS (+) / GRAY (+) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 42?

5. Is the hood pin switch from the RS supposed to be connected to the bypass as I did above? Or does that go the the hood pin switch after mounting it under the hood? If I mount it and connect it to the hood, then where does the IBM: 3pinW: 3 Yellow [Hood Status (-) Output] connect?

6. Are these Omega and iDatalink bypasses compatible with the Bulldog Remote Starter? Bulldog's site lists the DBALL as the bypass it uses, but I asked another installer who I bought these bypasses from and he said I could use the Omega/iDatalink. I ordered an Xpresskit DBALL which I may try to wire next. I also have an XK Loader 2 to flash it with. I'm also waiting for an OL Loader to check the firmware of the Omega/iDatalink's and flash them and try them as well.

Feel free to address/answer any of these questions if you don’t want to tackle the whole thing. This post is for people who are interest in actually installing remote starters. It’s not about why you shouldn’t install on a MT or why you shouldn’t self install. Please be constructive and help us all out at the same time.

The remote starter makes noise when I hit unlock or lock and will show "armed" when lock is pressed, but the doors don't physically lock or unlock. When lock is pressed twice, the horn chirps 3 times (so I know the horn is connected). The lock and unlock buttons only work (make noise from the RS, not actually physically lock/unlock the doors0 after pulling the key out of the ignition and don't do anything after like 30 seconds from pulling the key out of the ignition.

I checked some of the wiring with a multimeter (black lead to vehicle ground, red lead to wire being tesed) and here's what I found:

PARKING LIGHTS (+) / GRAY (+) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 42
showed: +12v when parking brake lights are lit (shows 0v when off)

POWER LOCK / LIGHT BLUE (TYPE B) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 8
showed: 0v when the lock button is pressed/held (shows +12v at rest)

POWER UNLOCK / GRAY (TYPE B) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 1
showed: 0v when the unlock button is pressed/held (shows +12v at rest)

DOOR TRIGGER / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 33
showed: 0v when the door trigger pin is pressed/held/door closed (+ 12v at rest with door open)

DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 8- Pin Plug) Pin 7
showed: + 5v when door closed (and lights dimed)
+12v when door closed & dome light shuts off
0v when door closed & dome light on.

HORN / ORANGE (-) @ / HORN SWITCH, (WHITE, 20-Pin Plug) Pin 1
showed: 0v when horn pressed/sounds (+12v at rest)

TACH this is the light blue wire I found in a wire loom to the driver's side of the injector harnesses
showed: +12v DC with engine off (yes DC!)
+14v DC with engine running (yes DC!)
+ 0.4v AC @ 1000 rpm
+ 0.9v AC @ 2000 rpm
+ 1.4v AC @ 3000 rpm
+ 2.0v AC @ 4000 rpm

BRAKE / LIGHT GREEN (+) / @ BRAKE SWITCH or DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 14
showed: +12v when brake pedal pressed (0v at rest) - this was the same for both lt green wires at the brake pedal

FACTORY ALARM DISARM / GREEN (-), NOTE #2 / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 4
showed: +10.9-11.0v DV momentarily when unlock or lock pressed but returned to resting voltage wen continued to be held
(+11.3 to 11.5v DC at rest)


I also tested the custom neutral safety switch and parking brake wire (factory):
Custom Neutral safety switch: 0 when grounded (in neutral); 1 ohm when open (in gear)

Orange Parking E-brake:
showed 1 ohm when the brake was disengaged; 0 when brake engaged @ e-brake light on

You have done an excellent job researching info for this install.  If this is your first install, you have a good handle on the process.
The major unique issue for you will be the vehicles manual transmission.  While I am slightly familiar with the more common
Bulldog R/S units ( RS1100 & RS1200 ), I have not used your Deluxe 500 system.  The bypass module ( ADS DLSL HA ) is a good
choice, which I have used before, and will perform flawlessly, once properly connected & programmed.

First a few things noticed in your wiring :

The ADS DLSL HA Hood Status output will only work if the Fit was fitted with a Factory Hood Pin sensor.  If your vehicle does not have
the Factory sensor, then install the R/S supplied pin and connect the wire directly to the R/S ( not bypass ).

As you noted, theTrunk release will only work if the vehicle has a non-mechanical trunk release.

There are two plugs at the ignition switch, the Green transponder plug and the Brown main ignition switch plug.  The bypass will
go to the Green transponder plug and the R/S heavy gauge wires will go to the Brown ignition harness.

R/S H1/1 Starter output must also go to Fit Starter wire, Pink  (+)  @ Ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 1 ( as well as bypass module ).

R/S H2/3 must also go to Chassis Ground.

Parking Lights - Try to use the (-) Parking Light wire   Gray  -  headlight switch, BLACK/ white 12 pin plug, pin 11.  Connect H2/1 to Chassis
Ground and H2/2 to the Fits' Gray wire.

R/S H4/7 might not be needed.  Does the domelight come on when the Unlock button is pressed?

Sequentially, it is best to mate the bypass module to the R/S on the bench.  The bypass module can only use the D2D comm if the R/S
supports that protocol.  The Bulldog does not but W2W typically works better in almost all situations.  

After connecting the bench prepped unit to all the correct wires in the car, and before installing the fuses to power up the R/S
assembly, I usually disconnect all the harnesses to the bypass module.  Then install the fuses, and perform the bypass Factory Reset
procedure detailed on page 10 of the install guide (#8407).  However, after Step 5, go to the top of Page 9 and perform the
"Installation Mode Selection" procedure ( two blinks for W2W ) and lock it in.  Then back to Step 6 of the Factory Reset procedure
and finish that.  At this point, go to Page 9 and do the 5 Step Programming Procedure.  Make sure the bypass module responds
in accordance with the install guide at each step.  At this point the bypass is programmed to the vehicle and should be able to
accept the Lock & Unlock command from the R/S. 

As mentioned the main "problem" areas will be the clutch bypass and setting the R/S to manual transmission mode and getting into
"Reservation Mode" to be able to perform a remote start.  You can do some testing by manually depressing the clutch pedal, etc.

I have noticed on other Bulldog R/S units ( RS1100 ), that they don't Tach Learn weak signals ( F.I. or coil on a Gen3 CR-V ).  I believe
Tach Mode is required on a Manual Transmission install.  Tach mode is usually the best way to R/S a vehicle, especially in cold
climates.  Not sure of the R/S Tach Learn process for your Bulldog system.

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Soldering is fun!

Generally with Kregg on this but I think grounding or a bad one is the problem ALL blacks except H5/3 to a good ground, usually one of the M6 (10mm spanner size) in the driver side kick panel. Scrape the paint underneath and use M6 crimped ring terminals, some people will even solder on top of crimping or use the very expensive sealed splice, heat after crimping.
If you used a $5 crimp tool from Walmart throw it away. A compound ratchet device is the way to go other wise the Ampliversal Champ.
Solder all your other joints, no other type is acceptable. There are some very good "how to" posts on the "art of soldering" in the General Topics section.
Sorry if I'm lecturing but you seem to have taken exceptionable care and it would be silly to loose everything because of a bad joint.
Also try disconnecting the by-pass, unplug it, leave a key in the ignition and then try your remote start, if it works then your problem is the by-pass.
Dome light... does this stay on when you shut the door for about 30 seconds but fade away about 3 seconds after locking the doors?
If so you won't need domelight supervision.
Pin switches, does your instrument panel have warning lights for hatch and or door open, if so these are the best places to pick up your door and trunk triggers, switched side of the warning lights as these aren't affected by time delays, i.e. they shut down immediately door or hatch is closed.
If it's anything like a Civic it's a 2 minute job (2 screws for the cowling, 4 for the cluster) to pull the cluster, incidentally any blue wire going to cluster is your tach. There might even be space behind to mount the R/S!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

P.S. Probably silly because the flickering instruments point to power loss either from a bad joint or bad ground; but have you by-passed the clutch switch?
Incidentally Kregg for your trivial knowledge this vehicle is called a "JAZZ" in Europe.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

And to bore the pair of you to tears, its called a "Fit" in Japan, china and North and South America.
Jazz in the rest of the world.
Manufactured in Japan at two plants.
China.
Brazil.
Thailand.
Indonesia.
UK.
India.
Philippines.
Usually driven in the UK by older people and very slowly, bit like a Yaris, usually give me road rage as they trundle along.
Isn't Wiki wonderful?
And Ford claims the Fiesta/Focus and their Mazda Land Rover and Volvo. GM with their Regal (Vauxhall/Opel Insignia, Saab 9-3) as world cars?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I skipped a bunch of your posts, but there is one thing I noticed and maybe I'm just misunderstanding your setup. For the neutral safety switch (to ensure it does not start in gear) you said that you "installed a magnetic reed switch and rare earth magnet under the clutch to ground the Neutral Safety Switch wire when in neutral. I’ve tested this circuit with an LED for a week before installing it, and the circuit works as it should." Judging by this description, you simply have a circuit that confirms when the clutch is pressed in... which the vehicle already has a factory clutch wire that does just that (which needs to be temporarily bypassed for remote start). In order to ensure the vehicle cannot start in gear, you would either need to get a MT ready remote start that requires a sequence to activate MT mode, or you would need to use the reed switch in the shifter so that it will ONLY show ground when in neutral.

Judging by your description, if you bypass the clutch and get it to remote start, there is nothing preventing the car from starting while in gear and taking off through your garage, a neighbors garage, or hitting somebody walking by. Get a proper remote start and do it the right way.. for the sake of yourself, your car, and your neighbors.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

You might have a point there Kenny I ASS of U and MEd that our poster meant NOT going to ground in any gear but again that wouldn't disable the R/S if it was always seeing ground, also can people especially junior members differentiate between "in gear" and clutch switches.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the quick responses everyone. You guys rock. I will be able to work on the car later this week to see what progress I can make. I will answer what I can for now.

MT considerations:
1. Explanation of neutral safety switch - The magnetic reed switch (normally open) and rare earth magnet are part of the neutral safety switch wiring/circuit H5/1 before its connected to ground in my setup. The circuit is closed (grounded, allowing remote start) when the stick is in the neutral position only (rare earth magnet closes the circuit when it's over the magnetic reed switch, causing the wire to be grounded). * this has no involvement in the clutch*
2. The E brake I haven't wired into the circuit yet, (as I have just been testing to make sure the remote starter will work.) I'm going to wire the neutral safety switch wire H5/1 to the E brake after the magnetic reed switch to only allow remote starts when in neutral with the E brake on. I will do the either one of 2 ways after I know the remote starter will work, as I'm stuck if it doesn't work. 1st method: add a magnetic reed switch (normally closed) to the E brake that will open the circuit when the E brake is off (lowered) and close the circuit/ground H5/1 when engaged. (This magnetic contact or reed switch is set up opposite of the one on the shifter based on how I can mount it.) 2nd method: connect H5/1 (after the magnetic reed switch to ground only in neutral) to the factory orange Parking/E brake ground wire with a diode.
3. I have not attempted to manipulate the clutch yet, as I wanted to confirm the remote starter would work. When I attempt to remote start the car I try it again with the clutch pressed in and get the same response. I realize that the clutch will have to be addressed, but this will be easier to test and manipulate once the remote starter will work (even with clutch manually pressed).
4. I am also considering adding 2 additnal magnetic reed switches (normally open) to the hood pin switch wire H5/1 after splitting the wire 3 ways (with diodes). 1 wire to hood pin, 1 wire to magnetic reed switch mounted under the shifter to come in contact with the magnet in gears 1, 3, & 5, and 1 wire to a magnetic reed switch which comes in contact with the magnet when in gears 2, 4, and R. This would kill the starter (when remote started & key not in ignition) whenever this wire is grounded either by the hood pin switch, or the car being in any gear.

Kreg - great post. I'll double check everything you discussed on my install when I get time.

Hood status output - I'll mount the hood pin, and test things with it connected to R/S H5/1, as I don't know if there's a factory installed sensor.
Trunk release - thanks for confirming my assumption here.
Starter - I will wire R/S H1/1 to the car's pink starter at the brown ignition switch harness as well as the bypass modules 10pinW 8 starter input.
Grounds - I'll ground R/S H2/3 and IBM 4pinB 3 to the vehicles body
Parking lights - I can cut R/S H2/1 and connect it to ground, then connect R/S H2/2 to negative parking light wire at the headlight switch. This means I don't connect anything to the positive parking light wire under the dash fusebox?
Dome light - ill check this later and get back to you.
Prepwork - I prepped on the bench as much as I could, braided wires running to the same area, secured them with electrical tape and wire ties. I will clean things up more once I confirm everything's working. I didn't cut any wires yet I didn't think I needed just in case, and these are just rolled up and secured, tips covered in tape.
Bypass reset - the led doesn't light up when I attempt to reset it or try to set the installation mode selection. These units were flashed by the guy I bought them from, and he sent me a print out of the flashing procedure as a screen capture. I am awaiting an OL loader in the mail so I can try to flash them again. When I try the reset or installation mode selection I connect the IBM 4pinB harness for power, since I don't have the OL loader. Should I be doing these steps with it connected to the OL loader once it arrives? Or can this be done with the harness connected to the car?

Howie thanks for the suggestions on checking connections and grounds. I'll double check these with the multimeter and make sure these are ok.
Domelight - I'll get back to you once I check this.

Thanks again for the help everyone. Once I get this all figured out I'll post a install guide, but I'll have some more questions before we reach that point.

I'm still running with thoughts of a bad ground or power connection.
On your second post you mentioned flashing inst. cluster lights, that's a sure sign of low voltage reaching the ECU via the ignition switch.
You will see the same symptom with a flat battery.
Nothing wrong with belt and braces for gear shift and parking break NSS leads, simply a pair of 1N4004 diodes bands towards R/S then join.
If you don't diode the parking brake will show on the instrument cluster as being "applied" every time you go into neutral, even during gear shifts.
Again you can pick up the parking brake either at the existing switch at the base of the lever or on the instrument cluster.
I think the other ideas are somewhat "over the top", again no disrespect because I have no idea of your knowledge/capabilities levels but get the R/S working before you try other things, beginners very often over reach themselves. I'm not pointing a finger at you but there are two posts here where people who in my opinion have heavily struggled to do basic work and are over reaching and under achieving, Kregg knows who I'm talking about.
Braiding the cable? WHY? You ain't wiring up explosives with a static electricity problem, just making your wiring obvious to a thief!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Re - bypass module:

For the Fit, the correct, current firmware is ADS DLSL HA2 ( or OL DB HA2 ).  Once the firmware is flashed, you shouldn't need
to re-flash it.  As a matter of fact you can program it to one car, use it, de-install it, Factory Reset it and install it into another
car ( that uses the same module / firmware ) and program it to the new car without re-flashing. 

The Factory Reset should work using just the 4 Pin power plug ( Red to +12V & Black to ground ).  I usually do this on the bench
with a an old 12V battery from a Personal Computer UPS unit.  You should be able to do this with it in the car ( battery connected )
as described earlier.  Double check your power & ground connections to and through the R/S  from the bypass.  While Howard
mentioned it earlier, it's a good idea to remember that all these connections between the Bulldog, bypass and vehicle should be
well soldered and insulated.  (Unless you have a high quality crimping tool and are comfortable in it's use.)  T-Taps, Sctoch-Loks and
butt connectors are less than ideal in a moving vehicle.

Additionally, you might not be able to get into the iDatalink WEB site to flash your module ( even with the USB cable ) as this area
is restricted to registered, authorized users.

Parking Lights :
You can use one or the other listed wires ( + or - ).  Using the (-) Parking Light wire is usually easier to find, safer to use and requires
less current draw through the R/S unit. 

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Soldering is fun!

I only had time to make a few changes, but I made significant progress.

I connected IBM 4pinB: 3 Black [Ground] -------- RS:H2/3 Black [System Ground] and attached these to the chasis to ground them to the body.

I also was able to perform a restore on the IBM after doing this. I then successfully set the IBM to hardwire mode and programmed it to my key. After programming the Tach, I attempted to remote start the car. The dashboard lights up (normally, no flickering), the engine doesn't turn over, and I don't hear the starter crank. The RS key fob will lock and unlock the doors successfully, and will show that the car is running after I try to remote start (even though the car doesn't crank). I also tried with the clutch pressed, and the results were the same.

This is definitely progress. I will try to wire the starter/crank between the car, RS and IBM which is why I don't think it cranks during remote start. I installed the hoodpin switch, and checked that it shows 0 ohms when grounded (hood open), and 1 ohm when hood closed. I'll connect this as well next, as well as the parking lights. I'll keep my progress posted on here.

Almost there....     

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Soldering is fun!

Install's been going great. I have everything working. I will do a better post detailing my changes later. I can now remote start the car. I had to connect the ground while running wire from the remote starter (which also goes to the bypass) with a diode to the output from the clutch. This allows the starter to remote start without the clutch being pressed.

My new issue is that the remote starter will crank for a while (3-4 seconds) on occasion. It's usually when I haven't started the car recently ( by key or remote start). The second time I remote start ( after a long crank) the car cranks normally ( less than 1 second). The remote starter can use tech leaning and I programmed the tach learning. It remote starts with. Normal crank immediately fret, but agains after long breaks between starts it will crank long if remote started for the first time. I also changed the setting for voltage checking to be the low type, which is recommended in the manful if the starter cranks for too long. I haven't yet successfully been able to program the start timer but that is my next step.

I'm not sure why it's cranking long with tech learning. I was wondering if I should place a diode t the connection to my tach signal wire to the remote starter? Or if anyone has any other recommendations.

Sorry for the typos. It should read "The remote starter can use tach leaning and I have programmed the tach learning. It remote starts with a normal crank time immediately faster programming the tach, but again after long breaks between starts it will crank long if remote started again for the first time. I also changed the setting for voltage checking to be the low type, which is recommended in the manual if the starter cranks for too long."

I'm confused, did you hardwire the tach?
Does it start on tach or voltage?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

From your problem description, I'm not sure if the vehicle is over-cranking or just taking longer to start.  Most Honda's
will crank longer when cold ( especially during winter ).  Your problem could be just the Tach Learn RPM setting. 
Sometimes you must do the Tach Learn on a warm engine at low idle.

On Page 21 of the Install guide, near the middle of the page is a note that indicates that the unit MUST be set for Tach or
Oil Pressure sensing when installed on a Manual Transmission vehicle.  There appears to be a rather elaborate Tach Learning
and adjust procedure detailed in the guide.  As previously mentioned, Tach Sensing is usually the best, most accurate, method
to use for engine starting.  Oil pressure switches are a simple ON/OFF at about 5 PSI and not recommended for this purpose.
As noted earlier, I had many issues with other Bulldog models in Tach Mode, either learning the tach signal or consistently
starting the vehicle without over cranking or having to attempt 2 or 3 times before getting the engine running.

 

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Soldering is fun!

Kregg; about increasing RPM to about 1300 on programming. In fact as a point a warm engine idles at a LOWER RPM than a cold engine, hence increasing the revs rather than waiting for a warm engine.
In other words I'm recommending high idle, exactly opposite to Kregg's advice so please try either till one works.
No anti-grind in the set-up?
OP can probably realise why Omega products don't often show up in the recommendations.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I hard wired the tach:

TACH this is the light blue wire I found in a wire loom to the driver's side of the injector harnesses
showed: +12v DC with engine off (yes DC!)
+14v DC with engine running (yes DC!)
+ 0.4v AC @ 1000 rpm
+ 0.9v AC @ 2000 rpm
+ 1.4v AC @ 3000 rpm
+ 2.0v AC @ 4000 rpm

The car sounds like it was over cranking when in tach mode. Remember this is only on starts after the car hasn't been started recently. It cranks normally if I remote start after a long cranks remote start, program tach learning, or have recently started the car by hand. However it will crank long for a remote start after 20-30 minutes.

I'm not sure why it says MT mode must use tach learning. Perhaps it's so the remote starter will shut off if the car is started in gear by some accidental measure?

I switched to voltage checking with a set crank time, and I currently have it set up in AT mode. I set the crank time to about 1 second or less. It's remote starting perfectly now. Ideally I'd like to have it with tach learning/checking though.

Based on my multimeter readings above does it seem me I have an accurate tach wire? It shows an increase in voltage when revved. I wasn't sure if the voltage is supposed to be higher, but I've read it can be anywhere from 1 - 6.0 volts.

I my contact bulldog next regarding tach learning and programming for further suggestions.

Here is another place to obtain a Tach signal as listed by DEI :
Tachometer      lt. green, tan, blue, or red  (ac) @ fuel injector harness on driver side of engine

It might be worth a try to see if the Deluxe 500 likes that signal better.  Check it first with a DMM to see if it is any
stronger of a signal.

Contacting Bulldog Security is also another good source of info.  At this time of year the wait time should be
minimal. 

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Soldering is fun!