no voltage to brakes,for cutoff or lights

hello newbie here,working on a 2003 ford econoline "hunting vehicle" 15" lift, cameras,lights DVR,GPS,the works. The owner had someone begin installation of an autopage cs 1100 OLED,many of the connections were haphazard and jury rigged,pulled it all out and wiring to spec,cannot however get the brake cutoff switch to work since there is no voltage present at the switch,fuse ok,no brake lights either,stumped..........

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phaseplasma

Did you check all fuses in both boxes ? It may not be labeled

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Check ALL the fuses, more than one fusebox? Also remove and check each one physically with a meter.
If the fuse is intact, run a 12V+ constant to the brake switch from the fuse box via a 10amp fuse.
My running lights failed the other evening. Headlights, fogs etc on the inside fusebox, that fuse was in a box adjacent to the battery marked rear lamps!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I suggest rotating all same size fuses.

I thought you could only rotate circular glass fuses.
I would substitute replace for rotate.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ha ha...(?)

I mean rotate positions - swap one for the next.

That not only breaks and remakes contact, but moves any faulty fuses to the next circuit.

Faulty fuses may test ok, but break down in use, eg, hairline fractures in ATS/blade types. (Glass fuses are even worse!)


Geez, one short concise reply and I get taken to task! LOL.
But being a first time OP, I should have explained a but better.


PS - phaseplasma - disconnecting & reconnecting (break & remake) connectors and fuses etc solves most electrical problems, especially intermittents (I'd estimate about 90%).
And rotating fuses means you don't have to check them. Or rather, paraphrased, a continuity/DMM check alone is not a guarantee.

No Peter, just an excuse for a bad joke.
I'm sure the OP knows what you really meant.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Phew, glad I ha-ha'd.

But IMO, a good joke. And made a good point. (Or good blade...)

I should consider less ambiguous wording - my point being fuse location rotation which happens to be the easiest method.
IE - remove the first fuse, then sequentially "frog hop" each SAME RATED fuse into to previously vacated location until the original fuse is refitted to the "last" fuse location.

Hence no swapping 2 at at time confusion or delays (unless only 2 fuses).   

If only one fuse, then "replace" though even then a simple "end swapping" or glass fuse "rotation" achieves the break & make aspect.


For blade fuses, the "fracture" situation is rare.
But my poor neighbor that sold his new sports Commodore after 2 years of not being able to find the intermittent engine stall issue when a fuse "rotation" or a 20c replacement would have fixed it...

thanx all for your suggestions,tested fuses,yes even buzzed them out ,checked the large dist.fuse box under hood,when I run 12v+ to the brake switch lights come on steady (brake) no parking or turn...the former installer did a half-cooked solder job into the switch,but it still carries current,i am still at a loss as to why there are no parking/running lamps (except when I arm the system,then they flash).This is a butcher job to the nTH degree and the owner has already invested over $12,000.00 in stereo lights ,cameras etc,which STILL need placement and finishing...i don't want this guy to think I am milking it,but these former butchers left me a nightmare. Built a marine quality relay board,and that helps...as far as brakes,there should be zero voltage on the white violet coming from the auto page 1100 oled and when brake is engaged 12v+ to shut off engine when armed...getting frustrated,got fuse schematics for all fuses for this model and will be rechecking meticulously,will keep all posted,,thanx again all......PhasePlasma

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phaseplasma

One more thing,while checking large fuses under hood pulled a black looks like a continuity type fuse from its socket and the mustard dropped down into the abyss of this hunting monstrosity,now the vehicle wont start ..it is black same size as std blade fuse but has 1 blade horiz. and one vert....when i put 5 amp fused jmper wire between the 2 it started instantly with no probs,,,what the hell was it? and if i cant reach it where do i get it ? it was ALL black with no numbers only a cont. symbol on it?


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phaseplasma

I believe you are talking about the pcm power diode

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe