Printer Friendly Forum Posts - avital 4103 on a 2000 honda passport

Hi guys. New member here. Ive been installing car stereos for 20 years but im about to try & tackle my first remote start install on my Passport. Ive downloaded the install manual and read thru it & have my install planned out & ready to tackle next week when the Avital gets here. However, theres one wire connection that im unsure of. From the install manual:

H1/3 YELLOW - (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)

As an add-on car starter: if connected, disconnect the ignition/accessory input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system. Connect the H1/3 YELLOW ignition output to the ignition/accessory input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system. The wire will prevent the host system from sensing that the ignition is on during remote start operation.

My Passport has a factory installed keyless entry/security system. All 3 of the wiring diagrams I have do not mention an ignition/accessory input wire on the keyless entry. Has anyone had any experience with this Avital model and/or Passport remote starter install? Or does anyone know where this wire can be found, what color is or how to test for it? Thanks for any input and help!

Look at plug H1/1 and H1/2:-
Light GREEN/ black factory alarm disarm to yellow/blue.
GREEN / WHITE factory alarm arm to purple.
White plug driver's kick panel.
The yellow wire on the Avital is used with an aftermarket alarm.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I wondered that as well since I already knew of the arm/disarm connections already listed. They didn't clarify aftermarket so I wanted to make sure. Thanks howie.

Pleasure but you must realise that the instruction manual is for pros.
A lot of the "jargon" assumes you're a pro and aware of all the little foibles.
I had to get the info from a site that can't even be accessed by the public (password protected etc.)

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yep I knew that. Not a pro but my basic understanding of 12v systems has helped me figure most of it out. One other question...I hafta determine if my parking lights pull 10 amps of current. Can that be done with a dmm or do I need to test with an ammeter? I figure if they pull 10 amps (a relay is required) and I wire it without a relay then basically they just wont work & that'll tell me that I need the relay, correct? The light output from the Avital is a 200mA (-) output & my parking light system is a (-) system so I wouldn't think I'd be in danger of frying anything, just wouldn't have enough current to flash them. Am I right in that thinking?

Wait scratch that last post...its a positive output & my lights are a positive system. I only need the relay if they pull 10 amps or more of current. But same thinking...if I don't use the relay then there wont be enough current to flash them if they pull more than 10 amps & I don't use the relay, correct?

10 amps = 120 watts, 4 outside bulbs at 10 watts + say 20 watts for the control and instrument lighting = max 70 watts.
Shouldn't need one but if you must play safe and use a relay:-
NEG light out put (white wire) to 85
12V+ constant to 86 and 87 with a 15 amp fuse.
Lights from 30

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Awesome thanks bro! I'll be starting on it first thing tomorrow morning. I'll post when I'm done.

Holy friggin crap it works! Everything works! Thanks for your help howie! Now I gotta clean up lol.

Excellent! Well done.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks man. Got it all cleaned up, wires hidden & programmed. Now I'm headed to have a Margarita with my wife to celebrate lol. Took just under 5 hours but I had already found all wires except the tach wire. Thanks again for your assistance!

Ok so I haz one more question..I wanna add the DEI 530T window module to this. Would the ORANGE accessory output wire from the 4-pin satellite harness be a viable output to use? I don't wanna use the RED / WHITE channel 2 output because I'd have to hold the button down for 1.5 seconds longer for vent/rolldown.

Yes to orange but AFAIK RED / white is the only other wire you can use, a basic unit and no other aux outputs, the red white will still work if you are careful with the button.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

BTW, tach is a blue wire on a 2 way plug attached to the wiring loom adjacent to the rear of one of the front suspension struts, or the same colour at the rear of the instrument panel.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Cool so orange it is. Just wanna make sure I use an aux wire controlled by the auxiliary (trunk) button on the remote that gives me access to the 1-push vent/3 second rolldown options built in to the 530T. I have no use for the trunk release option as the Passport has a manual back glass push button on the outside of the back door. I wasn't sure if that orange wire from the satellite harness was controlled by the auxiliary button on the remote. Thanks again bro!

Oh I have the tach wire connected. Its actually a BLACK/ red wire in the drivers kp black 22 pin harness. I did the tach learning & she's working perfectly. But thanks anyway lol..

As far as I can tell use the orange at H1/5 to trigger up (close) and you might use the satellite relay orange for vent and down but you will have to test, I'm not sure because the installation guide doesn't explain the satellite relay functions.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok cool. I'll use the orange satellite wire at first & test the functions before I finalize the installation. If not then I'll suck it up & use the RED / white trunk auxiliary output & waste another 1.5 seconds of my life each time I let the windows down lol. Thanks again man. Really appreciate your help!

Ok so I got it hooked up & its working, but I'm having one issue...to get the windows to go up I have to press lock, unlock, then lock again. It wont let the windows up on the first push of the button. Btw, I did have to use the RED / white trunk aux out wire. The orange satellite wire did nothing. Any ideas on the up issue? Defective unit maybe?

So it seems the doors have to be unlocked before the windows will roll up on the lock action. If I leave the windows down & lock the doors I have to unlock then lock for the windows to go up. Guess that's a product of the option of pushing the aux button then locking the doors which is a function that leaves the windows down. No biggie. So that install took 7 hours vs the 5 hours on the r/s. But all is well. They work. The r/s still works (didn't fry anything lol). I'm satisfied. Not bad for a rookie eh? Lol

Ok so now Im trying to install the RAP relay setup for my radio. I have (-) door triggers & have located via testing the (-) door trigger wire. I have checked 4 times literally my relay wiring in the last 5 minutes including the diode stripes to make sure & all is correct. When I open my door the radio stays on. I tested the relay using my battery & when I connect it it clicks. When I touch the (-) wire that would be my door (-) trigger pulse to the neg battery terminal it clicks so I know the relays are good. Could it possibly be a bad diode? Doesn't seem as the (-) trigger pulse from the door trigger is unlatching the relays as I do not hear the relays click when I release the door trigger. And yes I've searched for this issue but couldn't find a solution, sorry if I missed it. I have tested this without remote starting the car, just normal key cranking.

Whoa there! Why the relays? You have 2 ACC wires on that vehicle. One powers the radio the other heater wipers etc.
Orange is connected to the radio wire, Pink/white to the other ACC.
If correct, your radio if left on previously will turn on after R/S is activated and the RAP will work.
I thought RAP was built into the unit, or simply test on the thick orange on the 4103, the R/S should output 12V+ after key is removed and shut down when the door is opened.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Wait...so you're saying the Ignition 2 wire that Avital's Pink/White wire is connected to is actually a 2nd ACC wire? The wiring diagrams I have call it an Ignition 2 wire. So I should wire the relays to the Orange thick wire between the car ACC wire & the Avital brain?