remote start ignition wiring connection

Hi,

I am new to this forum so first of all I would like to hello to everybody.

I am planning to install remote starter viper 5501 in my car myself in my 2009 toyota yaris. I have got all the required modules (including PKALL immobilizer as my car has black ring antenna).

Most of the instructiions given in pictorial manual on this forum "Yaris 2006+ Remote Start Wiring Guide.pdf" I have understood. However my car has two ignition wires and I have a hard time to get idea how to connect them with the remote starter. Moreover Viper 5501 has around 4 ignition wires. I am not sure how to connect them.  Do I need to cut ignition wire in my car and connect 5501 wires in series with them? Do I need extra relays?

I am from electrical background so cutting wires, soldering or hooking up components are not big deal for me. But I am new to automotive electrical stuff. I would really apprecite expert help here on this forum.

Thanks,

Sam.

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Hello World

Remember to power up red, RED / white and RED / black on plug H3 then the pink/white at H3/6 by default becomes your ignition 2 no extra parts required.
It explains all of this in your owners manual and is shown on the wiring layout.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

To add to Howards' sage info, there is a Pictorial on the 2011 Yaris in the Pictorials section.  The 2009 through 2011models
should be the same.  Here is a link to the Pictorial :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~129997~PN~1

As shown there are two +12V constant wires in the main ignition connector.  The thick Yellow one is rated at 25 Amps while the
thin Gray one is only 7.5 Amps.  You can also get +12V constant at the fuse box.  There is a photo of the dash fuse box with the
thick Black wire ( right above the light blue square ) marked and is a +12V constant rated at 140 Amps.

Note that the Vipers ignition wires from H3 will be heavy gauge while most of the Yaris's wires will be thinner.  You will just
tap into theses wires to make you connections, no cutting necessary, just remove a 3/8" piece of insulation.  They should all
be soldered and well insulated.  No extra relays are required and the power locks are a direct connection from the Viper.  If
you use the (-) Parking Light wire shown in the Pictorial, be sure to change the Vipers fuse/jumper to (-) Parking Lights.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you Kreg and howie for help.

Just to clear my understanding, I am going to perform connections like below.
1) H3-1 : (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
YARIS : GREEN WIRE (IGNITION 1)

2) H3-2 : (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
YARIS : PINK WIRE (IGNITION 2)

3) H3-3 : ACCESSORY OUTPUT
YARIS : WHITE WIRE (ACCESSORY WIRE)

4) H3-4 : STARTER OUTPUT
YARIS : BLACK WIRE (STARTER WIRE)

5) H3-5 : (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
YARIS : NO CONNECTION

6) H3-6 : IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT 30
YARIS : NO CONNECTION

7) H3-7 : FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
YARIS : NO CONNECTION

8) H3-8 : (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
YARIS : NO CONNECTION

I would appreciate if you can confirm my above understanding...

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Hello World

NOPE! It won't work if you wire it as above.
1) H3/1 YES.
2) H3/2 NO RED / white to black on fusebox as Kregg mentioned above.
3) H3/3 YES.
4) H3/4 YES.
5) H3/5 NO to black as above.
6) H3/6 To pink.
7) H3/7 As far as I know not used.
8) H3/8 to black as above.
As a philosophical point people with an electronics especially AC and house wiring background usually have nightmares with 12VDC,relays and diodes.
Horses for courses.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Not exactly.  DEI Viper install manuals can be confusing to new users...

1) H3-1 : (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT          YARIS : GREEN WIRE (IGNITION 1)     OK

2) H3-2 : (+) FUSED (7.5A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87   YARIS : +12V constant ( Gray )

3) H3-3 : ACCESSORY OUTPUT      YARIS : WHITE WIRE (ACCESSORY WIRE)    OK

4) H3-4 : STARTER OUTPUT     YARIS : BLACK WIRE (STARTER WIRE)   OK

5) H3-5 : (+) FUSED (25A) IGNITION 1 INPUT   YARIS : +12V constant  ( Yellow )

6) H3-6 : IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT 30   YARIS : Pink ( IGN2 )

7) H3-7 : FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY    YARIS : NO CONNECTION   OK

8) H3-8  (+) FUSED (25A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT     YARIS  :  +12V constant ( Yellow )

Please note that any / all of the H3 wires getting +12V constant can go to the thick Black wire at the fuse box.  Same for the H1/2
Red Power wire.

Late Edit :  Slow typist, Howard beat me again.... 

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Soldering is fun!

Only because you're (hopefully) packing something/going to the post office/shipping agent for me.
I went to a Porsche launch for the new model Boxter last night, too much booze, too little food and I've never seen so much botox in one place (and that was the men!).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I never remember those H/whatever numbers that DEI uses, but it should be like this:

1. Red, RED / black, and RED / white wires all need constant power. You can connect them all to the Yaris' 25-amp constant power feed, or like kreg said, if you feel more comfortable, you can probably find a heavier-gauge constant wire at the fuse box---just test all the big wires with the car off until you find one that has power.

In any case, don't use the Yaris' smaller 7.5-amp constant power wire for anything. Either all three DEI red wires at the 25-amp wire, or at the fuse box, or even run out to the battery if you want, but that's not necessary.

IGNITION 1: DEI pink to the Yaris' larger ignition wire.

IGNITION 2: DEI pink/white to the Yaris' smaller ignition wire. (Note: The pink/white is already set to "ignition" in the programming menu. Don't change it.)

ACCESSORY: This depends on your opinion. Truth is, you don't need to connect accessory in your car at all; it just supplies power to the radio, mirrors, cigarette lighter, and other non-essentials. I'd prefer the radio to remain off during remote start, so I don't connect it. But, if you want: DEI orange to Yaris' accessory wire.

STARTER: DEI starter output (purple I think) to Yaris' starter wire

Pink/black DEI wire is not used in your application.

A few other thoughts:

---You said you have an electrical background, but you didn't mention if you can test wires. Be sure to test every wire you connect to in the car; don't rely on the diagrams and pictures to be correct.

---I'd get your brake wire at the fuse box. Easier than at the pedal, and also you don't risk having it get ripped up by the pedal or caught up in your foot if it should come loose someday.

---Sounds like you do have an transponder key in your car, but if you want to re-check this, look for a small "dot" stamped into the metal of the key, near the head.

Thank you all for your help here.

Special Thanks to Kreg and Chris for very details explination. I understood all the connections in very detailed now from your explanation.

About my background, I am an electrical engineer and have worked on low power designs (1.2V, 1.8V, 3.3V & 5V). But all of my designs are for consumer market and this is the first time I am trying something with automotive (my car 12V). I am very much familier with all kind of electronics instruments like MM, Scope, Analyzers etc.

I will cary on my connections as per you guys suggestion and wil let you know the results.

Regards.

Sam.

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:D

Hi,

I have perfomed all the connections mentioned as above, and it seems that my brain module is partially working. I am able to perform remote lock/unlock with the module but still not got success to remote starter. It gives error code for "Netural safety shutdown". I have make sure that netural wire is connected with ground with my automatic transmission yaris. No clue how to do proceed.

Also, I have a hard time to find out Horn wire in yaris. I was refering one yaris remote starter connection guideline "Yaris 2006+ Remote Start Wiring Guide.pdf" but it says BLACK wire is horn wire but when I checked it is a Front Wiper wire. I would apprecite if someone can through some light with their experiance here.,

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:D

Did you plug in the Vipers "Neutral Safety Switch"  and set switch to ON?

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Soldering is fun!

I have actually connected that wire directly to ground instad of connecting the switch inbetween.

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:D

Ref the horn wire, one word TEST.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Also have you programmed your unit for auto transmission. One phrase,RTFM.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi,

I have already programmed unit for automatic transmission.

Thanks,


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:D

you have to ground the neutral safety wire AND there is a 2 pin plug with a toggle switch that needs to be plugged into the brain and the switch needs to be ON. its a dual neutral safety and its extremely stupid. that switch cost me an extra 45 minutes on the first one of these i installed because i didnt realize that it actually needs to be plugged into the brain. even professionals have to RTFM sometimes

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Excellent,

After connecting both neutral safety wires, it worked first time.. Very confusing neutral wire connection description in the manual.

Now I run into another problem. I can do system lock/unlock when car is OFF. Once I perform remote start, I cannot unlock my car doors with remote. On the other hand, if doors are unlocked before remote start, I can lock the door with remote. Strange problem.

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:D

Keysense?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you guys for your help.. Everything worked out properly after soldering down all the wires. I think Viper should upate the installation manual to describe "unusual have to do" steps in it so that installer doesn't hit our head to the wall for such a small point.

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:D