2010 mazda 3 and omega excalibur al 1830
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131316
Printed Date: May 21, 2025 at 1:27 PM
Topic: 2010 mazda 3 and omega excalibur al 1830
Posted By: tale gunner
Subject: 2010 mazda 3 and omega excalibur al 1830
Date Posted: April 30, 2012 at 6:09 PM
I have begun installation of the Excalibur system and have run into some questions. I have all the wiring diagrams (at least the ones that I feel match the system) but I am at a loss as to being able to identify the plugs on the BCM. There are multiple 24 pin plugs and the pins are difficult to identify. I am testing everything with a DVM but I need some help with the BCM. I have found and verified several wiring errors on the diagrams I have. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Thank you
Replies:
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 01, 2012 at 9:50 AM
I have found 3 connectors on the BCM that have 24 Pins. Each is a different color and that makes it easy to identify. On my wiring list I have the plugs labeled as E, F, and so on as well as the color of each. My only issue is that the wire colors do not match up with the list. Trying to find them with a DVM makes it difficult when you have 24 wires to test for each signal. Does anyone have a drawing of the pin lables? (a, b, c, and so on) If I had the pins and how they are arranged in the plug, that would make this a little simpler. Thanks for your time.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 01, 2012 at 10:27 AM
Help us, what vehicle???
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 01, 2012 at 10:47 AM
Howie, 2010 Mazda 3. -------------  the12volt • Support the12volt.com
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 01, 2012 at 11:11 AM
I've loaded the 2010 Mazda 3 onto the Downloads/Manuals section, also try looking for "ready remote" and "Bulldog Alarms" on the web as cross references.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 7:13 AM
Thank you Howie II. That was what I was looking for. My bust that I had too tight of search and did not see your manual. Funny thing that Bulldog Alarms and DEI do not match. I will be researching today to see which is correct.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 7:19 AM
I am taking pictures of the installation and will be putting all together in a manual. I have some drawings I have already completed to be included.
Mazda 3 2010
MES door locks (after market)
Omega Excalibur AL-1830 EDPB (Blade)
Starter Bypass (not really necessary but it came with the kit)
DEI trunk Solenoid
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 7:34 AM
I found a copy of the Mazda OEM installation of the remote start. There is some fantastic information on there including the pin identifications of the PCM module. The copy was poor at best and almost illegible but the document number was in the lower right hand corner. Took a chance and googled 4280159 Rev A and up came the orignal document. That should help some of us with the questions like where is the tach (in place of using the injector wires). Just something else I am including in my manual.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:07 AM
Ready remote and DEI didn't match either and they are the same company!
Glad you found a solution.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:10 AM
To the 12Volt and tale gunner, apologies for reading the post and not the title. Senile dementia!  ------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:18 AM
Using the tech tips for normally closed door triggers I will include the trunk as one of the alarm sensors. On the DEI information it identified the trunk pin. That increases the protection in my car since I carry a lot of test equipment.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:20 AM
howie ll wrote:
To the 12Volt and tale gunner, apologies for reading the post and not the title. Senile dementia!
Howie you came through. That's all that matters. Thank you again.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:32 AM
That's OK, I just read the alarm instructions from Mazda, they mention IDC connectors (Scotch locks).
Never ever use them, solder and slave or solder and scotch 33+ tape.
Sorry if this is suck egg time and you're probably well aware of potential disasters, shaking apart, moisture and corrosion, poor continuity etc. but I had to mention it.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 10:50 AM
howie ll wrote:
That's OK, I just read the alarm instructions from Mazda, they mention IDC connectors (Scotch locks).
Never ever use them, solder and slave or solder and scotch 33+ tape.
Sorry if this is suck egg time and you're probably well aware of potential disasters, shaking apart, moisture and corrosion, poor continuity etc. but I had to mention it.
And I agree. I solder and heat shrink every wire, then tape it for a harness.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 10:58 AM
I can't believe a car manufacturer trains its techs to work like that although I've seen that on a dealer fit Fiat alarm (which we of course binned) but I'd expect that from Fiat/Alfa/Lancia oops Chrysler.
Here in the UK the Mazda dealerships are in the front corners of Ford Dealerships but at least the UK Mazda techs I've come across seem to know what they're doing.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 12:35 PM
Ok I've verified the injectors. The colors match what the file said they should. Not only that but I got continuity to each injector so I'm confident that I have the correct "tach" input. On the 4 injectors they were listed to be in Powertrain Control Module towards the front, pin BB, BC, BD, or AZ. Using that information should make it easy to find the Neutral safety. It should be purple(M/T)in color. Not sure what the M/T stands for. Anyway the 2 Powertrain Control Module connectors are the same so if the BC pin is one of the injectors and the rear plug has the neutral safety on pin BC or S that should be easy to find right? I checked the signal and it should be low active(zero) when in neutral or park. The color of the wire in BC is blue not purple. And it does not change when the car is taken out of park. Any suggestions?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 2:03 PM
M/T = manual transmission. You only need NSS if your vehicle is a manual.
You mentioned park, can I assume an auto?
If so connect the neutral safety wire to your reverse light feed (goes to 12V+ when you engage reverse with the ignition on).
Otherwise if manual find the wire that goes to ground in neutral and loses it's ground when you engage a gear.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 2:58 PM
howie ll wrote:
M/T = manual transmission. You only need NSS if your vehicle is a manual.
You mentioned park, can I assume an auto?
If so connect the neutral safety wire to your reverse light feed (goes to 12V+ when you engage reverse with the ignition on).
Otherwise if manual find the wire that goes to ground in neutral and loses it's ground when you engage a gear.
Man what would I do without you Howwie You're the best.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 3:12 PM
Below is a cut from the installation manual. I guess with this vehicle I will tie this to chassis ground. I mean if the car not in park then the normal key is in the ignition. If I tie it to the parking brake then I have to pull the parking brake before exiting the car or I will not be able to remote start.
BLACK/ White Wire - Neutral Safety (-) Input
REQUIRED. This input is a critical safety circuit which allows remote start operation whenever
the gear selector is in park or neutral (automatic transmission), or when the parking brake is applied
(manual transmission). Remote start will not operate unless this wire sees chassis ground.
CONNECTION (Automatic Transmission): Connect this to the neutral safety switch wire that
shows (-) ground when the gear selector is in the park and neutral positions.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 4:04 PM
The NSS must see a NEG. By connecting it to either parking brake or reverse wire it will see a NEG if vehicle is in park or neutral or the brake is up.
Brake down or as soon as the shifter moves to reverse it will see 12V+ and disable the R/S.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:07 PM
Well major step towards finishing. I hooked up the main unit after all the wiring was completed (all except the blade) and it works. I have locked and unlocked the doors, opened the trunk. The horn beeps and the lights flash. And the siren goes off so steps in the right direction. I have a lot of thanks to Howie. It was his knowledge that made this thing work. I have a lot of wire dressing to do tomorrow as well as programming the unit. I will take the photos and make an guide should anyone want to follow. Since I don't have 50 posts yet (Yet!) I will have to ask someone to post the guide but that will take about 3 or 4 days to complete.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 12:07 PM
Hooking the door triggers up to the dome supervision does not work for the alarm. The reason you ask? The dome has a delay that stays on for 15 to 20 seconds after you close the door. Hitting the lock on the remote causes the alarm to trigger. So today I went back and looked at the white 24 pin plug on the BCM. There is just no room to make the diode modification up there or you are a very small person that can crawl up under the dash. But at each post (drivers and passenger side) the wiring for the rear door is accessible. And as luck would have it the wires match the color code for the BCM.
LF = Blue
RF = Green
LR = Brown
RR = Orange
This will make it simple and easy for the modification for each door.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 12:09 PM
Forgot the RF is behind the glove box. Removing the glove box is simple and easy. 2 Screws and the rest just snaps together. Remember to remove the light in the glove box. That will make it 3 screws.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 12:11 PM
Before you do that, here's a trick from the similar Ford Focus, diode the + side to the interior dome and hatch lights. Doesn't the dome shut down immediately on locking?
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 12:12 PM
One more reference here and that is the DEI information has been rock solid and accurate. Bulldog has some differences that need to be corrected for this Model and year.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 12:13 PM
I meant British Focus. Incidentally Bulldog is always slightly wrong, that's why I have my signature line!
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 12:26 PM
howie ll wrote:
Before you do that, here's a trick from the similar Ford Focus, diode the + side to the interior dome and hatch lights. Doesn't the dome shut down immediately on locking?
No since this is car did not come with power door locks the lock does not communicate to the BMC. I put after market door locks on my car 3 weeks ago.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 12:43 PM
OK, back to plan A then.
Incidentally on 05 on British Focus (Mazda 3, L/Rover Freelander and various Volvos, they are all the same), and Ford Mondeo (Mazda 6, Fusion) I've always used your method, less clutter.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 04, 2012 at 7:29 AM
Well it seems most everything is working except the remote start. I cant get the blade to program. I have both keys and follow the installation guide to the letter but no success. I did reset the software just in case I did make a mistake but no go. Any ideas?
I cannot program the OL-BLADE-TB for my vehicle. I have exhausted my search on the Omegalink. I have both keys and go through the procedure in the manual. The LED is red and steady. It does not change. I have connected the RX and TX lines according to the documentation. There are some differences with the plug that is drawn in the manual but the information I have shows the RX and TX location near the key barrel. I also can disconnect the plug and the system will act like a key that has not been verified so I know its the correct plug. Any suggestions? I went back to the Omega link site and verified that the OL-Blade_TB is compatible with the 2010 Mazda 3 and is listed in the documentation.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 04, 2012 at 10:08 AM
To see if everything was working I tried this. I put the second key in the ignition and then with the remote I hit the remote start. The dash lit up and the engine ran. I hit the brake and it all shut off just like it is supposed to do with the exception of the blade programming. So all is working except the Blade. I have a call into the Omega company about the blade and I will wait to hear back from them. Any suggestions feel free to respond.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 04, 2012 at 2:01 PM
Almost finished now. I had the blade reprogramed for the 3rd time. Don't know what car this gentleman was programming but I guess 3rd time is a charm. Last thing to do is install the hood pin and it done.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 04, 2012 at 6:01 PM
I have one question that is bugging me. Does anyone know why the remote start causes the check engine light to come on? If I reset the alarm and not use the remote start there is no problems. The problem is when I use the remote start function.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 04, 2012 at 6:20 PM
Have you wired ALL the wires at the ignition?
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 05, 2012 at 11:25 AM
I believe I have but I am checking today.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 06, 2012 at 2:46 PM
I have gone through the connections and cant find any missing or incorrectly attached. I did find a pushed pin on the aftermarket cruise control that was connected to the diagnostic harness. I corrected that problem but it still turns the check engine light on after being reset. I have checked and rechecked the connections but cannot find an error. Any suggestions. I intend to have the error code read to see what its saying is wrong.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 06, 2012 at 2:48 PM
Just one note the cruise control is operational, and I tested it so I cant believe that it is a issue.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 06, 2012 at 4:53 PM
Ok well lesson learned. Nothing is wrong with the wiring or the system, just the operator.
I have learned that if you do not program the two remotes for your system, the OEM alarm will turn on the check engine light. I went to the auto store to have them read the error code. Before I left I went back to program the remotes and when I started the car the light was extinguished! The ONLY thing I did was program the remotes.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 11, 2012 at 10:33 PM
After testing the system in a run to Indianapolis I found that the cruise control was dropping out as if I had hit the brakes. I know that the brake signal is used by both systems (cruise and remote start). Concerned that the remote start could be causing a problem I added a diode to eliminate any cross talk that might between the 2 systems. (the cruise control is a aftermarket add on also) We will monitor and test the system on the next long drive. No check engine lights any more. I did however learn that Advanced Auto did not have the latest in OBD2 readers. The one they had only covered autos up to 2008 and could not read mine.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 12, 2012 at 12:45 AM
Sorry I couldn't help you on this last part, I hope the diode part works but I can't see it, I would look to the power and ground of the c/control and it's tach pick-up if it has one.
Yes you've just discovered that all car manufacturers unified and changed their specs on data connectors after 2008, now OBD lll.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 12, 2012 at 3:43 AM
I know that the cruse control worked properly prior to installation of the remote start, that's why I went with the diode on the brake. They both connect to the brake at the same point. Power is different connections. The cruse control connects the the fuse box and the remote connects to the ignition switch. Both connect to ground but at different points.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 12, 2012 at 3:45 AM
OK, I had to ask though.
Basic diagnostics.
Don't forget that when the alarm/RS is on the cruise control isn't and vice versa, brake+, ground and ignition being the only common points.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 12, 2012 at 3:48 AM
Is this a CAN controlled (drive by wire throttle) or a mechanical linkage type?
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: May 12, 2012 at 8:00 PM
It is a CAN. Rostra Cruise control model 250-9502
Posted By: tale gunner
Date Posted: June 04, 2012 at 4:22 PM
After putting in a Diode to separate the alarm to the cruise control I had not had any issues with the cruise control shutting down. Everything is working correctly and I am very pleased.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 04, 2012 at 4:28 PM
Good, that was a great idea of yours ref: the diodes.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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