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can someone explain this wire test for me

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131334
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 5:11 PM


Topic: can someone explain this wire test for me

Posted By: BrandonClaps
Subject: can someone explain this wire test for me
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 5:20 PM

I am trying to use a factory wire from the car as an output to my aftermarkets disarm wire. It's a factory smart key keyless entry. I've found the schematic for the car and the wire that goes to the keyless system. It shows 5v at all times and drops to 0 when your hand touches the door handle on the outside of the car during unlock. What type of wire is that and how can i use that as an output? In the schematic below i'm referring to the drives door outer handle (left side) and the orange to lt blue wire.

https://s13.postimage.org/ead6z7393/Door_Lock_Wiring.png



Replies:

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 7:19 PM

It would really help us help you if we knew what kind of vehicle you have.





Posted By: BrandonClaps
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 7:59 PM
2012 Acura tl




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:26 PM
posted_image Battery WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_image Ignition 1 BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_image Starter 1 YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_image LF Latch GREEN (-) DRIVER UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
posted_image RF Latch LIGHT BLUE (-) PASSENGER UNDER DASH FUSEBOX posted_image
posted_image LR Latch LIGHT GREEN (-) DRIVER UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
posted_image RR Latch LIGHT GREEN (-) PASSENGER UNDER DASH FUSEBOX posted_image
posted_image Trunk Trigger WHITE (-) DRIVER UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
posted_image Hood Trigger GREEN (-) DRIVER UNDER DASH FUSEBOX posted_image
posted_image Alarm Disarm BROWN (-) DRIVER POWER WINDOW SWITCH posted_image
posted_image Alarm Arm PINK (-) DRIVER POWER WINDOW SWITCH posted_image
posted_image Parking Lights RED (+) DRIVER UNDER DASH FUSEBOX
posted_image Low Crr Pk Lights GRAY (-) DRIVER UNDER DASH GUSEBOX

Note for alarm disarm reads:

TEST THIS WIRE WHILE TURNING THE KEY IN THE DRIVER DOOR CYLINDER, THESE WIRES WILL ALSO CONTROL DOOR LOCKS AND WINDOWS/SUNROOF WITH EXTENDED PULSES





Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:31 PM

I am confused, but that happens often.  Are you trying to have the aftermarket alarm disarm the factory?  Or vice versa?  





Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 8:35 PM




Posted By: BrandonClaps
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 9:07 PM
I'm trying to disarm the aftermarket alarm after I touch the exterior door handle (and I have my factory smart key with me.




Posted By: BrandonClaps
Date Posted: May 02, 2012 at 9:12 PM
Maybe I can just get the trigger from the factory arm and disarm wire to use as an output to the input on the aftermarket arm/disarm wire??




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 12:01 AM
a wire to disarm an aftermarket alarm does not exist.there is a manual disarm procedure that involves using the key and the valet switch but there is no single wire on the alarm that will disarm the alarm.

a wire that goes from 5v to 0v is usually a negative trigger. no offense to you but if you dont understand these basic concepts of trigger wires then you really shouldnt be messing with such advanced functions that need to be custom wired. bad things can happen when you dont fully understand how to test and interface these wires for an aftermarket alarm.

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Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 5:30 AM
The issue you will face with trying to use the button is that the button itself doesn't "know" if you have the key present. The button most likely just sends a signal to the BCM (or some other electronic controller) that lets the controller know the button has been pushed. The controller will then check to see if the key is present and then decide what to do next (ie unlock the doors).

When you push the button on the drivers door, with the key in hand, does it unlock all 4 doors or only the drivers door?

Using the factory disarm wire won't help either as it is most likely only triggered when you put the key in the door and turn it to the unlock position. It most likely isn't pulsed when you push the button on the door.

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Kevin Pierson




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 5:39 AM
Kevin, if you think about it there's no way pressing that button will unlock the car/disable the alarm without the RFI transponder present.
Also X 2 with soundnsecurity's post.
You know my views on amateur DIY = $$$$.
We used to have add/on alarm systems in the UK working via the factory remote, triggered by the indicators (lights) and door motor lock/unlock wires, nowadays through the data systems.
My though is if the OP is adding an alarm, then what's wrong with the factory unit?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 5:41 AM
I've just re-read the OP, am I being obtuse here (I nearly said an idiot but that's copyrighted!) but what aftermarket alarm has a wired disable?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 5:56 AM
howie ll wrote:

Kevin, if you think about it there's no way pressing that button will unlock the car/disable the alarm without the RFI transponder present.


I agree with this, but I bet that EVERY time you push the button it sends a signal to a controller that the button has been pushed. However, if no key is present the controller ignores the input. My point is that if he used this signal to disarm his alarm there would be no reference to the keyfob being present and that that would not be very secure.

-------------
Kevin Pierson




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 5:57 AM
Agreed.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: BrandonClaps
Date Posted: May 03, 2012 at 6:57 AM
Thanks for your comments guys. The more I thought about this, I think you're right that the car does send the signal regardless if the remote fob is near the handle. (haven't confirmed) The new compustar alarms have a programmable arm/disarm wire input. If i hook that to the factory arm/disarm and use it as an output to the aftermarket alarm I wonder if that will work OK. I need to speak with their support to make sure that if I do wire it this way that there won't be an issue when/if i disarm using the factory/aftermarket remote getting a possible double signal to disarm or a double signal to arm.

Nothing wrong with the factory system, but want an aftermarket for the two way notification and distance. After further research of the RF module in the door it appears it is sending a data signal down the wire to the keyless brain in the car and thats why i'm seeing the 5v constant and a drop in voltage. Must be similar to canbus.




Posted By: awdeclipse
Date Posted: May 04, 2012 at 11:54 AM
I could be wrong here but I was under the impression that factory arm/disarm on the vehicle is an input, not an output? I.E. Drivers key-cylinder would interact with the factory disarm wire to disarm the system.

As howie mentioned the stock systems would interface with the aftermarket via doorlock/marker lights to arm/disarm an aftermarket system.





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