viper 5904 dome light wiring

First of all, hello to all. Just got to on to this site and I can't believe all the great information gathered here.
My question is, I just had a viper 5904 w/ remote start installed in my 03ford f250 diesel truck . When first arming, the key pad reads open. The installer advised me that the alarm is armed it's just because the interior dome light stays on for a few seconds and that keeps it from reading armed. Now, I can arm it, disarm it and rearm it, and the alarm reads correctly.
Is this correct and can I have it arm correctly the first time with the dome light going off and my key pad reading arm?

only reason it does this is because the installer wired the door trigger to the domelight output as this is seen by all doors and will set off alarm when armed if any of the doors is opened.this is what most do as opposed to wiring to the door triggers and having to add a few diodes.

even though the light remains on the rest of the system is armed and will monitor those inputs and once the domelight goes out it will then also monitor that zone.its not a big issue and doesnt mean its not working correctly.

if its something that you cant live with then go back to the installer and ask him to wire the door input trigger directly to the door trigger wires instead of the domelight sense.once the domelight goes out then you can as you say disarm then rearm and it reads armed ok, not that theres any need to do that as the system is armed from the first time you arm it , it just thinks that a door is temporarily open because of the domelight but it is armed and secure

Tony,

Thank you for your input. I will keep the set up as is then and concentrate on my next question. The alarm only came with the window shock sensor. What do you recommend in regards to extra sensors and can I install them without having to go back to the installer. He wanted 60.00 per sensor.

The only real requirement is a dual zone proximity detector it really supersedes all the others. $60 per pop isn't expensive, about $30 per unit plus an hour's labour...cheap.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

the shock sensor that comes with the alarm is more for detecting impacts caused by people hitting your truck and will only detect a window breaking if its set too sensitive which then opens it up for sensing just about any small unwanted vibrations even from passing vehicles on the street, i have to have my shock sensor turned down as big bore exhausts or city buses going by would trigger it constantly. the most recommended sensor as opposed to loading it up with as many as you can would be the 508d prox sensor or similar but that can be a pain to install as ideally its best position would be up in the roof lining as opposed to down in centre consoles or fascias which can affect  or intefere with its sensing.

ive just recently done a 5704 in my brothers truck and have the shock sensor adjusted enough that a kick on the side steps or tires  or climbing into the box will trigger the warn away and anything slightly more  does full alarm but its enough that its not triggered by passing busses or loud exhausts.

the prox took a little longer to fine tune as it couldnt be mounted in the centre of the roof lining due to having a sunroof and the only place it could fit overhead was in the roof console which houses the map lights and roof control switch and ended up taking more ime to fine tune

the easiest sensor to do yourself would probably be the 506t glass break sensor,easy to install and adjust mic sensitivity so it would trigger as soon as someone attempts to break a window. for the time being i have one in my car and it picks up any attempt on all windows which isnt too bad for a wagon and it doesnt get false triggers unless its a bad hail storm.

ahhh beat me to it

Again I'm not happy about glass break, especially in conjunction with a shock sensor,, fine tuning so they don't interfere with each other is a nightmare, chuck everything else and go for a 508d.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

As a last point, overdoing the number of sensors is a common mistake, it leads to loads of false alarms, "balancing off" those sensors against each other is time consuming and no installer really wants to do it. We know the vehicle will be back for false alarming.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks guys for your input.

Do you guys recommend adding an extra siren so it can be very loud, or is there a better, louder siren that I can use?

Again a common physics fallacy, in fact about 4 sirens will double the output.
Could I suggest air horns, it does wake up the neighberhood somewhat.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Again I'm not happy about glass break, especially in conjunction with a shock sensor,, fine tuning so they don't interfere with each other is a nightmare, chuck everything else and go for a 508d.

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So if I got with either Viper Responder 350 or Avital 5303, I should get rid of the shock sensor and just install the motion sensor 508D?
How hard is it to fine tune the shock sensor and 508D? So you don't recommend the glass break sensor with the motion sensor?

Thanks.

Shock and 508d won't interfere with each other, no problems.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

bad_dude wrote:

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[So if I got with either Viper Responder 350 or Avital 5303, I should get rid of the shock sensor and just install the motion sensor 508D?
How hard is it to fine tune the shock sensor and 508D? So you don't recommend the glass break sensor with the motion sensor?
Thanks.

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as howie says they will be fine,  i have recently put both in on my last install and they work great

Out of the 4 types of sensors, which one or combinations are ideal for DEI products? Which sensor(s) isn't or aren't necessary? And why?
I am just trying to learn and distinguish the function of each sensor.
-Impact sensor.
-Motion sensor.
-Tilt Sensor.
-Glass break sensor.

Thanks.

Motion, I wouldn't even bother with the others. But everyone hs their own opinion.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

miamipsd wrote:

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First of all, hello to all. Just got to on to this site and I can't believe all the great information gathered here.
My question is, I just had a viper 5904 w/ remote start installed in my 03ford f250 diesel truck . When first arming, the key pad reads open. The installer advised me that the alarm is armed it's just because the interior dome light stays on for a few seconds and that keeps it from reading armed. Now, I can arm it, disarm it and rearm it, and the alarm reads correctly.
Is this correct and can I have it arm correctly the first time with the dome light going off and my key pad reading arm?

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If I may, I know this is an older post but upon my recent install of this system on my 05 F250 I had this same issue with the remote buzzing claiming i had a door ajar when arming and if I recall correctly a setting in my bitwriter fixed the problem.

What setting using the bitwriter did the fix, ads I have the dame problem with my dome light delay telling me that a door is open when I arm it..

Even though my brain is the 5704 what setting should I be looking for in the bitwritter?

Can anyone give more advice and detail please..., I personally can live with out ther dome light feature of my alarm, but am looking at it being a safty thing for when my daughter has borrowed the car at night. If the alarm is accidently turned off, eg keys bouncing around in her bag, the second the dome light comes on it thinks a door has been opened and the alarm wont reset and rearm its self... If I leave the dome light feature not hooked up, and my daughter were to accidently disarm the car, it will re arm and lock with in 20 seconds of no door being opened etc.. Please help any advice would be appreicated, and can some one tell me the difference between pin 47A and pin 47..

Many thanks in advance

ckhaustralia wrote:

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and can some one tell me the difference between pin 47A and pin 47..

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If you mean terminals 87 and 87a on a 30/40 amp relay: 87 is normally open. When coil is not energized, 87 is not connected to #30.

87a is normally closed. When coil is not energized, 87a IS connected to #30.

When coil is energized, 87 and 87a change states with reference to #30