Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2001 honda civic ex

I'm looking at installing a complete alarm and remote start in my car and I had a couple of questions.
1. I am trying to do this for cheap but reliable. I think I want either an AutoPage C3-RS6652W or a Crimestopper SP-501 any opinions about these?
2. I looked at the forum for my car and its pretty good but I having a hard time understanding how to install the trunk release with the remote. a little clarity would be great. Do I tape directly into these wires? I'm sorry if these are elementary questions but I'm trying to learn.
3. I have read something about controlling your windows and possibly other things from the remote I was wondering what those things are and how useful they are as well how they would work.
3. Any pictures of this process would be amazing.
4. I have an after market stereo will this change anything during the installation process.
Thanks for the help guys.

Cheap and reliable is a contradiction that doesn't exist in real life.
Cheap will give you more problems than you could ever imagine. (I can, been there done it and ripped them out to supply the genuine article).
You mentioned window closers etc. The cheap units won't give you enough aux outputs to control them AND a trunk release.
As for trunk release does this vehicle have one already or will you be installing one?
Either way you will need a relay and a 1N4004 diode (and more for your door triggers possibly though there's a work around for that, see below).
Your stereo should be neither affected or touched although the lower panel around the gear shift is a great place for the LED.
One quick tip, remove the instrument cluster, first point look at the space behind, easily enough to mount the alarm ECU there secondly if you have warning lights for doors and trunk open, you can pick up the triggers at the switched neg (-) wires that turn on those lights.
Is this a manual transmission?
You will need a clutch by-pass as well as the factory immobiliser by-pass.
There are loads of posts on this vehicle, 01-05 Civic, look here in the archives, vehicle wiring section or manuals/downloads.
Autopage and Crimestopper, of the 2 Autopage appears to be better quality but both suffer from reliability issues.
2 real options but obviously more expensive, Compustar and Audiovox/Prestige.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie pretty much covered it.

1. I have not personally used either of these units. I hear that both brands are OK.

Do keep one thing in mind: A. Most manufacturers don't/won't provide tech support on their phone lines if you're a do-it-yourselfer. B. The more popular the brand, the more of us on the forum who can help you if you have a problem. So basically, even if you have to pay, say $25 more for a popular brand, the free tech support you'll get here on this site will be worth it.

I use Audiovox all the time, and anything from DEI is very popular and pretty much any installer has worked with it before. The Prestige APS997C is a solid unit at a good price, although the 2-way remote is very fragile.

2. Does your existing remote have a trunk button on it? If not, then you'll have to install a trunk-release motor on the inside of the trunk lid. It's basically a cable you attach to the car's trunk mechanism, and the motor "yanks" the cable. Very primitive, crude, and unreliable, but the part is cheap.

Basically, what it comes down to is if you're patient enough to keep repositioning and readjusting the thing until you get it working right.

3. I think the most popular window module is the DEI 530T. Each piece does two windows; if your car is a sedan, buy two. Be aware that you have to fish wires into the driver's door.

4. Not sure of where you might find pics besides a Civic forum, but your car is so simple, it's easy to look under the dash without tools. The panel in front of the driver's knees comes right off by just twisting the two retaining tabs. The black panel above your feet comes off the same way. You'll see there's plenty of room to access the wires going to the ignition switch, you can plainly see the doorlock wires where they pass into the body from the driver's door, you can see the brake pedal switch, and you should even bee able to see the (unused, taped-up with blue tape) light-green factory alarm connector.

The downside is that any alarm you install will be easy for the thieves to reach up and unplug. Like Howie said, you could remove the instrument cluster and hide the main brain there, then drop your wires down to where you'll connect them..... but generally, trying to hide stuff will become very time-consuming for a first-timer.

Maybe you'll want to try doing a "basic" installation in your girlfriend's car, then try hiding everything in your own car after you've had some experience.

5. Aftermarket stereo shouldn't change anything. Only one thing might be if there are amplifiers or subwoofers installed, you may find that the installer ran all those RCA and speaker wires across the place where you're about to do your work. If so, no big deal---just leave them alone, but make sure to zip-tie them back up when you're done so they won't fall on your feet.

P.S. You didn't mention this, but be aware that your car has an anti-theft immobilizer chip in the key. The remote starter won't work all by itself; you'll have to also deal with the Civic's immobilizer. Fortin's HONDA-SL3 is your most cost-effective part, but look around for others. The DEI 556U will save you money, but you'll give up one of your existing keys.

Thanks so much for the help. That really put me in the right directions I've got a couple more questions for the experts though.
1. Ok so I looked into the Prestige APS997C and its not that more expensive and both of you recommended it so I think I am going to go with that. That one will have the required parts to do the windows and the trunk right? When I look it up it says it has a Six Channel Code Learning Programmable Receiver. Does that mean that it can do the 4 doors, the trunk and have one more left? Can I use this for the sunroof or what else can I use this for?
2. How do I remove the instrument cluster that's a great spot for it if I can get that off so I don't take space in my glove compartment.
3. As well, for the windows, and possibly the sunroof, when I use the remote to control to arm the alarm do they always go up or can I chose when I want them to close?
4. My car has a trunk release lever by my seat can I tap into that somehow? There is nothing on my remote that can open the trunk just the key. When is the part called and where can I buy one if I do still need another part.
5. My car is an automatic so I wont need to by pass the clutch. As well buying with the Prestige APS997C I will need to buy 2 window controls will "Install Essentials 530T Window Automation System" work good or would you really recommend the DEI 530T? I know you said that there is not such thing as cheap and reliable but I'd like to save some money where I can. Also, with the immobilizer bypass I have seen people say that they put a key in a hid-a-key and wrap a wire around it and it works just like DEI 556U. Any opinions about that? And the last question is the relay and a 1N4004 diode that is used for the doors you mentioned. I couldn't figure out what that was or what it is used for?
I will be looking forward to hearing from you. I am excited to get the ball rolling on this project.

From your questions and lack of knowledge I would respectfully suggest you don't try this on your own, but you're still going to anyway.
6 channels probably means 6 aux.
Door locks are taken care of already, 1 channel for trunk release 1 channel for window closers.
I will post a diagram for the sunroof assuming that model has two control relays, this method worked on the previous model Civic:-
1) Honda sun roof-4EE_honda_roof.bmp
2) Trunk/Hatch release-
26A_trunk-pop.bmp
Note the diodes you require, 1N4004*, to prevent damage to your unit.
The part you require is a "trunk release solenoid". Installation is a PITA as Chris said. Best place is to parallel the mechanical release cable where it enters the lock mechanism. I did that on my last car.
Instrument panel removal, remove column cowling or at least top part (you will need to access the ignition switch for the by-pass if required anyway), two screws in cowling, snap-out then 2-4 screws holding the cluster.
You can close windows and roof either on arming via The GWA wire or via an aux set to about 15 seconds.
The various window closers you mentioned are all the same product.
You will also need a 529t for the roof or use my roof close method and two relays. You will have to wire into all 4 doors to get at the motor wires for the 530t's to operate correctly, a right PITA on Hondas.
*Radio Shack, etc. etc.
Don't attempt to make the bypass yourself run with a 556 or the other unit Chris mentioned.
Tools mandatory. Quality tape such as Scotch 33+, solder tools, heatshrink, good quality crimpers, tester e.g. Snap-On 12v+ test light, DMM etc. drills, bits cutters and strippers.
Door panel removal tools, Sears, Snap-On, MAC etc.
Your competence may be OK but your lack of applied knowledge seriously troubles me.
Read the relay and diode sections on this site.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok thanks. So what parts of the system do i need to put the 1n4004 on? I looked at the relay section but wasnt sure which one I should be looking at. And these I assume I install in line between each of the parts? Do they act like mini fuses? Also, the setting where I can set the roof and windows on a 15 second timer is that through the part that I will buy for it? As well where is the best place to buy parts like these? Do you think buying them online is ok?

Have a look at the relay and diode sections above.
Again from your questions you are in over your head here.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Diodes are NOT fuses they are there as circuit "conditioners" and protection to prevent feedback destroying your alarm-R/S etc.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok thanks again. I really think I can do this if i put the time into it but looking on line i found this Audiovox FLCAN Flash Logic Multi-Platform CANbus Enabled Doorlock Interface. It looks like it is a relay that by passes most of the wiring and uses the factory alarm directly with the aftermarket one. Can this be used with all four outputs I am going to be using trunk, 4 windows, sunroof. As well, if I use this would this make it so I can use my old wireless remote to arm the alarm as well as the new one? Tell me if you think this is garbage and a waste of money though. Also, if there is a better brand I should look into that would be great. I might be a newbie at this but my dad knows a lot about this and when I ask him for help I want to not waste his time and know what I need to ask him so I really appreciate the baby steps your taking.

I don't know the answer to this but frankly on a 2001 Civic, ESPECIALLY if it has the white factory alarm plug what you've described is an unnecessary expense and probably less reliable, virtually everything you need is at that factory alarm plug, lock/unlock, door hood and trunk triggers, lights.
Your old remote will become redundant.
I usually disconnect the factory alarm (no internal sensors) and throw it away, ditto Toyotas.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You guys recommended the Prestige APS997C but I see that there is a long range one for like $10 more called PRESTIGE SS9000. Do you know if there is there any difference in these really? For $10 I might as well get the extra 3/4 of a mile range right?
As for places to buy the system I am looking at Amazon, vminnovations.com and autotoys.com. They all have about the same prices but I was wondering how does the manufacture warranty work with these different places? Do I always get one year warranty from them. I've tried to call the manufacture but I got a voice mail and no return phone call. Doesnt help reassure me its a good product but the reviews are pretty good overall. Autotoys is the most expensive but they offer diy pictures of previous installs and my car happens to be one they did before. I get access to the full diy if i buy from them so I am kinda leaning towards them but they dont say if they are an authorized dealer so I dont know if the warranty would apply.
When I order I need to buy only 2 diodes for the trunk release to go with the trunk release solenoid, and the 529t for the sunroof and 2 530t's for the 4 side windows and that's all right? Also, would buying a glass sensor be useful as well? And again thanks for the help its really appreciated.

Some answers for your last post.
Take a pinch of salt with the range claims although obviously the "better" manufacturers , e.g. DEI, Avox, Comp. are relatively accurate, also what gets you a mile in Florida Everglades gets you about 1 block in Manhattan.
In your circumstances go with Autotoys, i.e. installation photos very helpful, though having said that the 01-05 Civic is one of the easiest cars to install to.
Not sure of the US legal requirements but most man/retailers are loathe to give DIY people any warranty, you're more than likely to have left out a blocking diode to a relay and fried the board.
You will need a relay and 2 diodes for the trunk release:-
266_trunk-pop.bmp
Note: as I said if you leave out the right hand diode (1N4004) from the alarm-R/S a back feed spike from the relay on shutdown will fry the alarm-R/S.
In this case 4004 is mandatory that back feed can exceed 300volts and will overwhelm a 4001.
Don't buy 2 diodes, get about 10.
A glass sensor is fine if it is the only add-on, I'd go for a 508d dual zone field effect sensor personally, you then have "warn-away" as well.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok thanks. So I use one diode for the alarm itself and two for the trunk pop where else will I use these because you told me I needed about 10? I assume I will use them in between each of the 529t and the 530t's wires possbily the effect sensor to? In the diagram for the trunk release I assume the diodes are the rectangles with the white break in them. The sunroof diagram does not have this in it so I was not sure if I still needed it for the other parts. As always, I look forward to more of your help.

Yes just about everywhere you have two signals going into or out from the alarm CPU.Such as hood and hatch alarm triggers if the alarm doesn't have separate trigger wiring.
Please ignore the other roof diagram, it was for one touch roof open and close and is for earlier Hondas.
This is correct:-honda_roof_ii.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok sweet i will definitely use that. So the alarm is on its way when I went to order the 529 I noticed there is the 529 by dei and the 529 model B is there any difference of these or just a way to trick people into spending more for the same product?

Both are from from dei i think i was kind of unclear about that

No idea, the most recent version has 10 wires, should have grey and grey/black, orange and ORANGE / black. The only difference is you can make that version 2 way on a single window or roof.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok so this is the image of the part I think is right. It says it goes both ways on one window or two windows one way this should work right but the wire colors are different in the picture than what you said? posted_image

Count the number of wires in that plug, oh look 10.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok thanks I was just making sure. In the installation manual it says that I should use a 4002 diode in between ignition and the unit. Do I need to get those as well or can I just use some of the left over 4004's I have already?

4002 and 4004 are both 1 amp power handling diodes, 04 has a higher "inverse" voltage handling capacity and is therefore safer with relays, when a relay shuts down (turned off) you get a "spike" of about 200 volts and this can fry unprotected devices such as alarms, R/S units.
4004 now appears to be the standard and is the default stock item in Radio Shack etc.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

All right thanks for the info, if I have extra diodes should I put them in between all the wires like the wires from the main power harness or is that unnecessary?
Also, the installation manual say that if your car is running over 24 amps you should add an extra fuse next to the one that came in line with the power wires. I have a stereo system running like 80 amps so that would mean I would want to add the second fuse right? In the picture they have both the fuses with 15 amps fuses to replace the 30 amp fuse amp. Because I am running 80 amps just one the stereo does than mean I need to use two 40 amp fuses or should I stick with the two 15s?
As well, in my honda civic I can only find one power wire that comes from the ignition switch harness and when I look on line all I can find is info that also says there is only one. Does this means I should connect both the wires that require power from the alarm to the same single power wire right?
I look forward to hearing from you and always appreciate the help.

Diodes only where shown, e.g. signalling wires,GWA orange etc.
No just use the fuseholders provided connected to the white ignition feed.
WTH has your amp to do with this anyway?
You power that from the battery with a fuse within 4" of the battery.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok so I will just stick with the 30 amp in line fuses it came with and run the both to the white power line. When would you want to split them like the manual gave an example of with using two 15's? Also, just to clarify that the stereo is a whole different line with its own fuse and I should not worry about that while connected the alarm.

Do NOT use anything lower than the fuses provided, where on earth does this 2 x 15 amps rather than one x 30 come from?
2 x 15 amps = 15 amps!
Your head unit has 2 fuses 7.5 in the engine bay fuses box marked memory or back-up and one in the passenger fusebox, marked either radio or audio, I believe 10amps.
Nothing to do with alarm or R/S, I've never even removed a head unit on any Honda during alarm-R/S work.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Engine bay fuse box, F17 10 amps, fascia fuse box, F23 7.5 amps.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

https://audiovox2.info/docs/common/SS6900/SS6900_IM.pdf
On page 6 it has a picture of splitting the 12volt power line's amp from a 30 to two 15s. I thought that would actually lower the amperage and was confused on what the purpose of that was.

I do apologise, somewhere along this long and winding road I made the incorrect assumption you were using DEI product which requires 30 amp fuses.
Apologies, 15 amp fuses as shown are fine, the diagram is confusing and should look like this:-avox.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok so because I am running all the accessories I just need to replace the 30 amp fuse for a 15 and then just attach the two wires from the alarm together then run a wire to the white and I'm done with that part right? Thanks for your pictures to they really help me understand whats going on.

Again no!
Separate fuses please!
You're running different things, if you had a short a single 80 amps wouldn't help.
Every time any manufacture lists separate fuses such as a car having one for hazards, another for dome light you follow it for a reason.
Car electrics 101.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Look at my last picture again, that's how you do it.
Technically you're looking at load division.
If something in the R/S failed, other circuits would still be protected.
DEI uses 4 fuses and quite right IMO.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Alright thanks. Almost got that finished. I had a question about the GREEN/ ignition 2 wire. In my Honda civic i do not see a second ignition wire. Should I connect the second ignition wire from the alarm to the same wire as the first ignition wire or just not use it?

Also, The PURPLE / accessory has one wire from the alarm and my car has two accessory wires that it can connect to. Should I just connect it to the first one or split it to both of them?

To move on to a different wire, on the alarm says it has a turbo timer mode. Since I have a Honda Civic I don't believe I have turbo in my car should I just leave this out?

One final question for today to. When I read the information below about one of the wires I had a hard time understanding what it was saying and if I need to use it. How do I check to see if I have the switch?

BROWN w/ BLACK TRACER WIRE: Positive Inhibit Input 2
Any time +12 volts is applied to the Brown w/ Black tracer wire, the Remote Starter will stop operating, even
if the signal is received from the transmitter. If the brake light switch in the vehicle switches +12 volts to the
brake light circuit, connect the Brown w/ Black trace wire to the output of the brake light switch. If the brake
light switch in the vehicle switches ground, do not use the Brown w/ Black wire; see Gray w/ Black tracer wire.

Hope to hear from you soon.

Hey hows it going Howie I haven't heard from you in a couple days? I was wondering on top of my other questions, if I can connect a male connector to the end of my truck release into one of the empty fuse spaces under the dash. I have read you can jump onto another pre-fused slot but I think it would be best for it to have its own power source and I have enough things running to the battery directly already. Also, if you know whether to use the top or the bottom slot that would be useful to. Hope everything is good with you.

Sorry, don't know WTH you're talking about with that last post posted_image

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Catching up...Of course forget about turbo timer, the brown black goes to the switched, bulb side of your brake switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok thanks glad to hear from you, so I should install the turbo then even though I probably wont use it.

I had a question about the GREEN/ ignition 2 wire. In my Honda civic i do not see a second ignition wire thought the manual says I have 2 ignition wires to connect to. Should I connect the second ignition wire from the alarm to the same wire as the first ignition wire or just not use it?

Also, The PURPLE / accessory has one wire from the alarm and my car has two accessory wires that it can connect to. Should I just connect it to the first one or split it to both of them?

O and I forgot to add to I am having the hardest time getting a current or voltage reading from my 12 volt constant white ignition wire. Is there something I could be doing wrong?

In order of questions.
Forget turbo timer it doesn't matter you don't have a turbo!
Use the ACC that DOESN'T power the radio as the SECOND ignition.
Probably, use a test light.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok thanks how do I tell which one powers the radio?

Also, do I use a diode for the 556u? If so where is the best spot for it.

Pull the the first plug down from the ignition set your DMM to continuity 1 probe on radio ACC or fuse marked audio or radio the other on the lead at the plug.
Or access a wiring diagram, Honda Forum.
Or cut each in turn.
In practice it makes no difference, either can be ACC or ignition 2.

If the blue status output wire (GWR) is connected to nothing else then no diode, if it is 1N4004 band away from the 556.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks I got that figured out. I had a question about if I use the Audiovox SS6900 alarm's blue ignition 1 output from the 6 pin power harness or the black and yellow wire 12 volt alarm by-pass output or do I use both of them?

Another question, for my tack monitor set up my wire diagram tells me to connect the the alarms GREEN/ orange wire to the blue wire to the left of the battery. I found a similar looking wire behind the fuse box. Am I able to tap into that rather than to the blue wire by the battery?

As well, I believe that I have a factory installed remote unlock and locking only. When wiring the 4 auxiliary harness harness what outputs would I be connecting them to?

Also, one final question what output do I connect the 530t's and do I connect both on the same channel or use 2 channels? Thanks like always for your help and hope to hear from you soon.

I have to state that A/Vox product isn't available in Europe and I've never installed one.
However from looking at the manual, blue to car's BLACK / YELLOW.
Is there a factory alarm, cig. pack sized module with a white plug bolted outboard of t5he steering column?
I'm guessing here because I've only done UK build right hand drive, we have a pocket to the right on the driver's side lower dash, it's above and behind it.
Yellow/black to the wire that goes to 12v+ when ignition is turned on.
That blue/wire also goes to the tach in the instrument panel.
Under hood, left hand side, (again it's the opposite here), should be behind the suspension strut, joined to the main loom with blue tape, ends as one wire going to a double plug,dark grey? Also to the coil pack depending on year and model.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Which 4 pin aux harness?
I looked at the install manual and couldn't find a GWA (ground whilst armed) I think I'm going mad!
Any way you could use the GREEN/ black channel 4 as raise (leave at 20 seconds default) and blue/black channel 5 as vent/lower.
Alternatively read the instructions on the 530t, they list a way of doing it off the lock wire.
Alternate 2, a latching relay from the lock wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you for the new help. For the 530t what wire do I connect to the RED / white h2/3 wire? It says the auxiliary input on the 530t to the (-) output to the alarm but I am not sure which one that is. As well for the added relay where is the (-) lock pulse from the security system. This features makes the windows go up when I lock the car right? I believe I am just going to follow the instructions from the 530t, I believe that is going to be the easiest with the most features.

With the locks I am having a hard time figuring out what diagram I should use with my car? The manual for my car has a few different ones. Does it mater or does on allow more features?

For the 4 port auxiliary port it was this one I did not know what is was used for. I was also confused on what ground wire you were looking for?
WIRING THE 4 PIN AUXILIARY OUTPUT HARNESS:
The auxiliary 4 pin connector provides low current outputs to control various functions in the vehicle during
different stages of the Remote Start unit's operation. Understanding these outputs and the time in which they
occur will allow you to determine if they are needed for the particular vehicle you are working on as well as
how to use them.
BLACK w/ BLUE TRACE WIRE: Pulsed Ground Output Before Start
The Black w/ Blue Trace wire will provide a 1 second, 300 mA pulsed ground output 1.5 second before the
remote start unit activates as well as when the transmitter is used to disarm the system. Typical use for this
output would be to disarm a factory theft deterrent system to prevent false triggering of the factory alarm
when the remote start unit engages or when the transmitter is used to unlock the doors.
BLACK w/ LIGHT GREEN TRACE WIRE: Pulsed Ground Output After Start
The Black w/ Light Green Trace wire will provide a 1 second 300mA pulsed ground output after the vehicle is
started under control of the remote start unit. Typically this wire will be used to re-lock the vehicle doors if the
doors unlock automatically when the factory anti-theft system is disarmed.
BLACK w/ RED TRACE WIRE: Pulsed Ground Output After Shutdown
The Black w/ Red Trace wire will provide a 1 second, 300 mA pulsed ground output after the remote start unit
shuts down. This output will occur regardless of whether the circuit times out or is manually terminated.
Typically this output will be used to re-lock the vehicle doors if the doors unlock automatically when the
ignition circuit transitions to off.
BLACK w/ YELLOW TRACE WIRE: Ground Output During Start (Crank)
The Black w/ Yellow Trace wire will provide a 300 mA ground output while the starter output of the remote
start unit is active. This output can be used to activate the Crank Low/Bulb Test wire found in some GM
vehicles. This wire is also referred to as the ECM wake up wire in some Chrysler vehicles.
Note: The outputs above are low current outputs and must be used with a relay if the circuit's requirement
is more than 300 mA.

I called the dealership and he said I should have a factory alarm but when I looked for it I could not find it. There was a cig. sized box but it was for the cruse control. There is an empty slot next to it where I think it should be. See pic. So I am not sure at this point. Is there anyway else I can confirm that?

The alarm is coming together thanks to your help. When should I want to test things to make sure they work right? When I am completely wired or when I finish a parts of it?
posted_image

Is the RED / white H2 the GWA wire?
Then that's the wire that goes to the orange and ORANGE / black on the 530t.
And the alarm's blue/black to grey and grey/black.
The locking is simple, find the vehicle's lock and unlock wires, fusebox or a white plug in DKP using your DMM*, N.B. won't work with key in ignition and throw over the latch at the back of the door.
Red to WHITE/ green for lock and and green to WHITE/ blue for unlock, diode the wires, 1N4004, bands to SS6900.
As for the alarm, open a back window, remote lock the car, wait about 1 minute then reach in and open a back door. If nothing happens no alarm.
That photo is too blurry to see anything. Is there an unused white plug and can you photograph it?
Apparently it's above the DKP, not where I said.
The 4 pin plug isn't needed, but you will need to diode split your GWR wire to the key sense and by-pass if needed.
Look for 2 items in the Downloads/Manuals section, shows how to by-pass the factory alarm (Civic 1) and the vehicle fusebox, (Civic 2).
*You really don't need a DMM for this car, a good incandescent (filament) bulb tester such as a Snap-On CT-45 is adequate and faster for this car, the DMM is only required to test tach.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Errata, look in the Downloads/Manuals section for Civic Fusebox only.
Here's a way to disable the factory alarm during remote lock:-honda_keysense_activation.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok thanks doesn’t seem too difficult. The 530t says the RED / white H2 wire is the auxiliary input and it says to connect to a (-) validity channel of the output alarm and I do not believe that would be a ground right? And you next sentence about what to use the alarm’s blue/black is it for is it the light blue/black or the dark blue/black? I understand that I connect that to the grey wire on the 530t but I wasn’t sure what to do with the grey/black wire. I did not know if I should wire all 3 together? Also, I forget, I want to diode the negative GWA wire right? And I have been soldering them on that’s the best way to attach them right?

And What does N.B. stand for?

RED / white is the 530t? I thought it was the alarm posted_image

That goes to an aux output you care to choose set to pulse (momentary).
Such as blue/black.
Orange goes to your ground when armed output or if you want to raise the windows at any time use the GREEN/ black as timed set 20 seconds.
But then I've already mentioned this haven't I? That's what's meant by N.B. Nota bene, Latin for NOTE WELL.
As for the 530t grey, it's there to connect to a relay during window raise to disable shock etc. sensors during window raise/lower if required.
(-) aux simply means GROUND when activated answering your other question.
As for light/blue and dark blue your looking at the alarm's aux outputs, I don't have an install manual so you tell me.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok for the window module do you know what colors that I need to connect for the motor wires in my honda civic? I cannot find a diagram for it and those wires are not on the fuse box diagram you showed me earlier. There are 6 or 8 wires I am looking for. I am and not sure because in the manual it says that the back windows run on the same circuit but I can roll them up individually so I would think that they would be different.

Also, I had a little trouble deciding what way I needed to wire the locks I know my system is negative but there is still 2 ways of doing it. For the locks it says I need relays with it.(reference page 13 of the manual) Does using a diode take the place of the 5 pin relay? If so then when do you use relays over diodes? As always any and all help is greatly appreciated. posted_image

https://audiovox2.info/docs/common/SS6900/SS6900_IM.pdf posted_image

You open up each door panel and test the two wires as they go to the motor. You will need to do that anyway to wire the 530ts properly.
Diodes are needed because of the type of lock outputs they are low neg, I've usually picked them up at the long white plug above the DKP. Shown in both your pictures, the smaller plug with the thinner wires.
Of course back and fronts are the same circuit...The power and ground.
You are doing the usual DIY trick of over doing the analysis and not enough testing.
Throw away the DMM and use a test light such as a Snap-On CT 45.
Also you are about to get into serious non connection, vibration and corrosion problems using those red plastic IDC connectors. Remove and solder.
That blue ring held by a tap-tight screw below the plugs? Also a no-no. Use the existing M6 bolts in the kickwell or any where else making sure you scrape away the paint under the bolt.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Cool I am going to go buy the new tester today. I learning how important testing because I am having to redo things by not taking the time first to double check things.

For the illuminated entry in my alarm manual it has a picture of the relay and one of the connections are the 87a to the 30 and the 30 to the ground. I am not sure if this is just an example of where the power goes or if I should connect the 87a to the 30 and then connect the 30 to the ground, which I might as well connect it all to the ground then. It also say connect to fused battery source but does not say how much the fuse should be. I am assuming it wants me to connect it to one of the wires that attach to the 12 volt constant that came with the alarm and reuse that fuse.

And to back track a little, I have been having trouble with this, in your diagram of the trunk pop just to clarify you connect the 85 that splits to 2 diodes, then one side goes to the button switch that came with my trunk pop solenoid, then to the ground, then back to the trunk pop solenoid, then back to the 30 relay?

And just a little info I figured out that I guess my factory alarm is gone. I was wiring into a the green plug and I realized that that should be plugged into my factory alarm. I do not see anything that that green plug should go to so that is my logical conclusion. I was wondering why it was just hanging there. As well, that ground and the clips were not of my doing. They were, as well, like that. I honestly tried to use the clips, but was hopeless unsuccessful and just feel like I am tearing up the wires, they do suck.

You don't need illuminated entry, your dome light comes on automatically when the door is unlocked.
Are you adding a solenoid (actuator)for the trunk pop? If so:-
Alarm trunk release to 85 ground to switch to 85.
Diode both bands away from relay.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The car is pre-wired, thats why the harness is there but no brain(thingy to plug the green harness into). It is just hanging there to make installs easier for us after-market people. They are really nice at Honda! posted_image

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

And that's where you pick up door, trunk and hood triggers, lights horn (?) power (for alarm not remote start) and ground.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok for the 530t I found 11 wires that produce a circuit. 8 multi colored wires and 2 bigger black wires and 1 solid orange one. I believe that the orange one is the horn and the 2 black ones are ground right. The other ones I am assuming the other ones are the motor wires. They all read the same when I test them.

For the motion sensor how do I connect to ground and the alarm with the 4 pin out put that it comes with? The wire is a 4 pin to 4 pin wire? And when I will connect that to auxiliary 7 when I do figure out how to connect them right? Also, it says that it is a two stage alarm how do I wire the 1 and 2 parts of the alarm if I am just using the 1 auxiliary 7 output?

For the 529 the diagram you gave me it looks like you have two diodes on the same line facing different directions. I was wondering why.

Lookng forward to hearing from you thanks.

WTH are you talking about? The only orange wire on a 530t is the thin trigger wire.
Could you re-link to the diagram showing the two diodes please, I must do 10 a week for different people.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

For THE WIRES IN MY CAR THAT SHOULD CONNECT TO the 530t I found 11 wires that produce a circuit. 8 multi colored wires and 2 bigger black wires and 1 solid orange one. I believe that the orange one is the horn and the 2 black ones are ground right. The other ones I am assuming the other ones are the motor wires. They all read the same when I test them. I need to find which one power the motor for each direction.

posted_image

And again about the motion sensor I was confused how to connect the 4 pin to my car. For the motion sensor how do I connect to ground and the alarm with the 4 pin out put that it comes with? The wire is a 4 pin to 4 pin wire? And when I will connect that to auxiliary 7 when I do figure out how to connect them right? Also, it says that it is a two stage alarm how do I wire the 1 and 2 parts of the alarm if I am just using the 1 auxiliary 7 output? Thanks.