windows roll up module safety.

Hello,
I would like to add the windows roll up modules to my 4 doors, which brand and model, if it exist, has the safety feature where the windows would stop to avoid hurting some one? Just in case a kid has his/her head out the window. Or I don't really want a limp inside my car from a thief. Lol.
This video the installer said there's a safety circuit breaker built in but he didn't mention which brand he used.

Thanks.

They all (at least the reputable brands) have circuitry that you are asking about. 

i am an idiot wrote:

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They all (at least the reputable brands) have circuitry that you are asking about. 

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Thanks. Does it really matter which brand I get? Which do you think is the best in terms of ease of install and quality?

Most used products;
DEI 529t for closing,
DEI 530t for close and vent and opening.
Except I don't think the units you mentioned back when will support the 530t, not enough aux outputs.
All closers from reputable manufacturers are roughly the same;
2 or 4 relays, timer(s)ICs and a LOAD SENSOR which stops or stops and reverses on sensing obstructions.
Your car if under 10 years old probably has that facility anyway, just raise a window if you have one-shot closing and slap your hand down hard, this should stop it or even reverse direction.
By now I can't even remember if on your many many posts you told us what car, if it's a Honda, could luck getting into all 4 doors for the window closers/vents or just the driver's door for closers.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

By the way why would anyone have their head inside or outside of the window if you were closing them such as arming the alarm, not your problem is it?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi Howard,
I did on my one post stating that car 1990 Accord LX Sedan. Like in this thread.
Quite a few people stating that my car being that old, I should have to worry as it's probably a piece of rusted junk by now. Well it's the only car I have. So I want to protect it.
Here's my car. I love the car. I do every thing myself except for those little jobs that I don't have the tools to do. Since hard to work on it when I don't have a garage and tough ruled apt. complex. But the manager is cool with me. So I work on my car all the time.

Thanks Howard, you are the most helpful person here that answer my many many questions.

Frankly it doesn't matter what others say, as long as you like the car, that's all that matters and if you want to spend money, well that's your decision.
You do realise that you will need a basic minimum of the following tools to do this job properly.
DMM.
Soldering iron.
Solder.
Heat shrink sleeving. 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" or more correctly 3.2, 4.8 and 6.5mm.
Insulating tape.
Scotch 33+ tape for some of the solder joints.
Strippers and side cutters e.g. Klein, Ideal.
Good crimpers not Walmart.
Diodes about 10 1N4004, at least 2 Bosch/Tycho 5 pin relays*, Radio Shack.
10mm socket.
Phillips No 2 point screwdriver.
Door trim panel remover.
*For headlights, trunk release etc.
I believe English isn't your first language so I will try and help but please, no more than one external sensor (less adjustment and false alarms) and no silly posts like the one about adding a shock sensor when there was already one in your first choice alarm-R/S.




-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Frankly it doesn't matter what others say, as long as you like the car, that's all that matters and if you want to spend money, well that's your decision.
You do realise that you will need a basic minimum of the following tools to do this job properly.
DMM.
Soldering iron.
Solder.
Heat shrink sleeving. 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" or more correctly 3.2, 4.8 and 6.5mm.
Insulating tape.
Scotch 33+ tape for some of the solder joints.
Strippers and side cutters e.g. Klein, Ideal.
Good crimpers not Walmart.
Diodes about 10 1N4004, at least 2 Bosch/Tycho 5 pin relays*, Radio Shack.
10mm socket.
Phillips No 2 point screwdriver.
Door trim panel remover.
*For headlights, trunk release etc.
I believe English isn't your first language so I will try and help but please, no more than one external sensor (less adjustment and false alarms) and no silly posts like the one about adding a shock sensor when there was already one in your first choice alarm-R/S.

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I have got all of the listed tools you mentioned. I just need a good test probe like the one that you pinch the wire with a needle point. I have some soldering skills. I upgrade the oamps in my sounds for many years to achieve what a more expensive ones give. I repair my car transmission computer and my friends'. So I have some skills. The thing about any alarms, I would guess is when I get used to it.
Though English is my 2nd language but it's like my first. My first language is Vietnamese, but I can use either languages the same. The only disadvantage on this forum is I can't go back to edit my writing mistakes. It irritates me when some one post some thing and there are more mistakes in their writing than the ideas present. Who am I to judge. The education that you paid is only the one you can applied. Other wise you are wasting money. Lol.
Btw, the shock sensor thingie, lol. What I meant was to add sensors in conjunction to an already existed shock sensor. I want to add a window module as during the summer here in CA, it could be 9AM in the morning and it'll be 85F-90F. Good thing is it's always cool down at night.

Thanks again Howard.

Bottom line, if they make stupid grammatical/syntax errors on their posts, what's their workmanship like?
By the way add a drill with 1/8" (3.2mm) and 9/16" (7mm) for switches and LED.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Did I tell you that my friend's car got his wheels jacked? They put his car on 4 bricks. Then when he got out in the morning, the alarm went off when he opened the door. What even more funny is that they jacked his front replacement steelies a week later while he waits for new rims. So now we are reinstalling his Viper and hope it would be more sensitive. We are going to put in the motion sensor. He got the 5901. The installer that took his money was a bad one.

That needs a tilt sensor, 507m but cut both loops, the 508d won't detect them if they keep low.
Oh and 2 lock nuts on each wheel, just make it harder.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Bottom line, if they make stupid grammatical/syntax errors on their posts, what's their workmanship like?
By the way add a drill with 1/8" (3.2mm) and 9/16" (7mm) for switches and LED.

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Got those. Cordless drill 10.8 lithium battery and metal drill bit set. I got lots of tools. I was a manager for a tool store for 6 years. So any good deals, I was in.