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python 5000 won’t startPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131748 Printed Date: June 21, 2025 at 2:52 PM Topic: python 5000 won’t start Posted By: rescu2000 Subject: python 5000 won’t start Date Posted: July 04, 2012 at 7:15 PM Hey guys! I could really use some help. I have done installs (years ago, before databus immobilizers) however I can't get a start on this install. Details below: Vehicle: 2007 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara 4-door Remote Start/Alarm: Python PS5000 with SmartStart I know that the FLCAN is flashed properly and it did learn the key (it appears) ONE ISSUE: the first time I wired it up I didn't notice that the FLCAN wanted a + Starter input and the Python had a - Starter output. I mistakenly tied these together at first. Of course I suspect this as the root cause to my current issue. Other things I have wired up as "maybe's" Using 2nd status/defogger output on the Python as the GWR input on the FLCAN When I hit the start on the keychain it does the following: Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Is the starter relay required?
Replies: Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 05, 2012 at 1:34 AM One more thing. The canh and canl are supposed to be WHITE/ black and WHITE/ blue but they were WHITE/ green and WHITE/ blue. No doubt in my mind that they were the right ones though. They were twisted and connected to the correct pins on the lock cylinder plug. Just thought that it was odd and worth mentioning in case someone else reads this thread trying to do a similar install.
Tomorrow I will check the ignition output wire from the flcan to the cylinder for +12v. And plug up the satellite relay pack and see if it tries to activate the purple starter relay when I captivate the start sequence. Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 05, 2012 at 11:35 AM I went out this morning and got every connection and wrote it down. I will list all information below. I also checked the ignition (+) pink/white wire at the keyswitch for 12v+ when the PS5000 relay clicks showing that it is trying to start, but I am not getting any voltage there. Any ideas? Vehicle: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara 4-door Security System/Remote Start Module: Python PS5000 SmartStart system All wiring connections are soldered and heat shrinked except 12V+ and Grounds (temporary while troubleshooting) Issue: Remote start function does not work. I can press remote start and the system will disarm the alarm, and the starter input relay I have wired up to send 12v+ to the FLCAN starter input clicks, so I know the PS5000 is trying to start the vehicle, but the vehicle does not crank. The Pink/White Ignition (+) at the keyswitch does NOT get any power and the “key on” chimes to not come on. Is there an issue with any of the connections below? I do have a multimeter. FLCAN Wire connections made: Python PS5000/Remote Starter connections H2 Harness – Remote Start ribbon cable H1 Harness – H3 Harness – Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 06, 2012 at 10:27 PM Sorry to keep adding to this. But I think this info may help. In looking at the flcan document it shows that for the wranglers the flcan do es not have Brake pedal status output. I know that the remote start needs that to know when to shutdown. It also does not support "RAP shutdown control". Does support mug starter control though.
Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: July 07, 2012 at 10:21 AM ill start off by saying ive never installed a python 5000 but im more than familiar with DEI alarms so bare with me if end up taking about wires or features that dont exist on that particular alarm.
the FLCAN is a beast, i use it all the time but i use it with audiovox alarms which support D2D installation. they make an extra harness that you can buy for chrysler vehicles that does all of the wiring for you too so with that being said the FLCAN should be able to do everything for you without using any extra parts although i think the parking lights might need a relay still depending on the firmware. ok, when you remote start, do the lights on the dash act exactly like they do when you start with the key? this is one of the easiest ways to find out if the bypass is not activating a wire correctly. also, if you use the 2nd status as GWR then i think it needs to be programmed as such. but why use this wire at all? use the actual GWR. also for testing purposes i would turn the engine checking feature off on the alarm. turning this feature off will stop the alarm from looking for a tach signal and will make it just crank the starter based on the crank time you set it for. it will also stop it from not starting based on a faulty tach signal eliminating one possible cause of failure. also if im not mistaken, the large gauge red wires from the relay pack still need to be powered up for any of the wires from the relay pack to work. the + starter input on the FLCAN needs to be wired to the +starter output from the relay pack so it can know when to crank the starter through the MUX wire, and without the red wires being powered up the + starter output will not send power to the FLCAN to tell it to crank. why would you send an ignition power feed to the starter input of the FLCAN? is this how it tells you to wire it because im confused by this? try those out and tell me what you get. ------------- Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 07, 2012 at 11:36 AM First off, thank you so very much for the help. While I am pretty smart do not hesitate to dumb it down, it won't offend me. I am sure that this is something that I will go "duh" about later on.
The remote start sequence shuts down the factory alarm (or unlocks the doors) and then does nothing (no accessory power, no dash lights, no crank) and then re-activates the factory system (or re-locks the doors). I used the second status output because the first status ouput was in the ribbon harness and I didn't want to split that and splic into it at first. Later I had to anyway, so it isn't a big deal at is time so I will hook gwr to status output. I will try to turn the tach sensing feature off, however I did go through the tach learning process on the python and it worked successfully. So I don't think that is the problem. However as you say, it will eliminate one possible cause. I think I tried hooking power to the relay pack, but that didn't help. I will try again for confimration. As for the way it is wired, that is what the instructions had. It has a positive 12v ignition status going through a diode (allowing flow out) to the starter ignition in AND the flcan starter ignition in. Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: July 07, 2012 at 5:19 PM "WHITE/ Red – Ignition Status (+) output to diode () to Pink output of FLCAN which is also connected to Yellow wire on remote starter relay pack ribbon cable (+ ignition input to remote start)"
this ignition status wire is for alarm purposes, it should be hooked to the ignition input of the alarm which normally would be the large gauge pink wire on the relay pack. why they would tell you that this needs to be hooked to the + starter input of the FLCAN is confusing me. also why is there two separate ignition outputs from the FLCAN? "BLACK/ White – Starter (+) input to 12v+ from a relay that is triggered off of Pink (-) ignition trigger in the starter relay ribbon cable. This relay does click when I try to remote start but the vehicle does not try to start. " i truly believe this is your problem because you are giving the FLCAN conflicting information by driving this with an ignition. the chrysler ignition system is resistance based through the MUX wire. the MUX wire is the ACC and the starter wire depending on the resistance you send to it. the bypass controls this function but you are telling the bypass to send BOTH acc AND starter resistances to the MUX wire at the same time and when you combine these resistances you get something totally different so the car doesnt know what to do. this is my best theory. to fix it you need to drive your relay from the - starter output in the ribbon cable which is probably purple but dont quote me on that. once you do that the ignition sequence will be correct and it should at least crank. ------------- Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 07, 2012 at 7:06 PM One mistake in my post is that the (+) ignition status output is going thru the diode to a pink ignition input on the flcan and an ignition input on the remote starter brain. So it is an output going to two inputs. Odd that the flcan would need to send a signal to it's own input instead of handling that internally.
Unfortunately I won't be able to try any of this until tomorrow. I am out of town for the holiday right now. I will post my findings tomorrow when I get back home. Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 07, 2012 at 7:54 PM In looking this over, orange in the ribbon cable to the starter pack is the accessory trigger and it isn't hooked up to anything as I recall. That would explain why the dash isn't powering up. I assumed that the flcan would power the dash and then the starter as part of it's startup sequence. I will double check the instructions to ensure that there is no accessory (+) input on the flcan.
Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: July 08, 2012 at 10:54 AM i dont think the FLCAN needs anything except status and starter input. status should turn on the ignitions and acc's and the starter signal should make the FLCAN switch between acc and start on the MUX wire.
------------- Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 08, 2012 at 5:38 PM Got it working! I had touse the external relay pack. The ignition wire and starter wire in the ribbon harness must have been negative triggers for the relay even though they were called positive. I assume because they drive the positive output from the relays. So wired up the relay pack o power and used the pink and uple wires for ignition and start and viola! As I thought, it would be a duh moment. Thanks for all of the help. You leading me through the thought process of how the flcan saw the remote starter was the push I needed. Thanks again!
Oh and for those that are wondering , the brake I'd work through the flcan for shutdown even though it says it isn't supported in the chart. Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 08, 2012 at 5:42 PM Grrr... Brake DID work. Stupid iPad keyboard.
Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: July 08, 2012 at 9:38 PM cool. trust me you are not alone when it comes to these new firmware based bypasses and chrystlers are some of the worst ones to have to do your first time due to the complexity of the install BUT it still beats doing it the old way with relays and resistors. i was trained using the older vehicle specific bypasses then i took a 2 year hiatus from installing only to come back to these new-fangled contraptions and it took me a long time to figure out how to use them with nobody to tell me how.
------------- Posted By: rescu2000 Date Posted: July 09, 2012 at 9:01 PM Furthermore, it turns out that you were right (and the instructions clearly wrong) on the ignition status ouput and the two inputs. I had to split the status output off of the inputs, remove the diode and hook the inputs to the relay ignition output and the status output to the yellow remote start ignition input on the ribbon cable. Otherwise the alarm brain was not detecting ignition which meant I couldn't program anything with the valet switch, reset the NPC, etc.
Everything is working well now. One other note, the trunk status input was supposed to be a multiplexed input for zone 4. I tried wiring that to a 508d so that it was on a different zone than the shock sensor. It would trigger but wouldn't warn away. I fixed this by leaving the trigger wire to the sensor connected to the trunk trigger and connecting the warn away wire to the green shock sensor wire loop (after cutting it). So my shock sensor is warning and triggering off of the blue zone two wire and the 508d is triggering on the trunk status wire and warning away on the green zone 2 wire. Works well and sine the green and blues are multiplexed, either wire can handle warn away and trigger through the same wire. I know you already know this, just putting out there for anyone else that is interested. |
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