odyssey 2011/12 remote start wiring

Hi all - currently working on installing a Viper 4704 + idatalink remote start system on an Odyssey 2012 and have issues as I don't have the wiring diagram for the w2w install. Would someone help please?

I don't have access to directechs.com! Many thanks!

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Bassel

Here is the info from DEI Ready Remote :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Honda&model=Odyssey

Not sure which iDatalink module you are using but the ADS AL CA flashed with ADS AL(DL) HA3 looks like the most comprehensive solution.  That would be install guide #9125 using the Type 1 diagram.

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Soldering is fun!

Many thanks for the reply! Appreciated. I have a few questions, I tried to summarize the research done so far. I still have some troubles, here are the items which still are not clear:

Questions regarding the Viper 4704:
Main Harness:
* Parking Light Output: does it sent a negative or positive pulse? I would suspect neg, but did not find any documentation around this.
Remote Start, 8-Pin Heavy Gauge Connector
* Red: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 1 Relay: Is it needed? If yes can I use the same power source as the main harness (12VDC Constant Input)?
* Pink/Black: (+) Flex Relay Input 87A Key Side (If required) of Flex Relay: Does this pin needs to be connected?
* RED / Black: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for ACC and Starter Relays: Does this pin needs to be connected?
Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-Pin Connector
* Dark Blue: (-) 200mA Status Output: Does this pin needs to be connected?
*Pink: (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output: Does this pin needs to be connected?
* Violet / YELLOW: (-) 200mA Starter Output: Does this pin needs to be connected?
* WHITE/ Blue: Activation Input: Does this pin needs to be connected?

Questions regarding the Bypass (Idatalink & Fortin)
* The Lock and Arm functionalities are combined in the same pin on the iDatalink and the EVO-CAN (Fortin), should both Arm and Lock get wired to the same input on the bypass module? If this is the case I would suspect that 1N4001 diodes would be required, correct?
* Power Liftgate and Sliding Doors won't work during remote start, even the ADS-AL-CA #9125 mentions it and recommends to use the "tradditional" method, would you know what would be required in this case? I found a techtip from DEI #1085 which applies to 1999-2003 Odysseys, but nothing for the 2011/12.

Here is a summary of the wiring I have so far... I will post an updated version when the missing info are available. I will also be happy to post step by step instructions with pictures later.

Main Harness, 6-Pin Connector

    Red: (+) 12VDC Constant Input CONNECTED TO: Car | where:ignition switch (white) | wire color: White | connector: 5pin #1
    Black: (-) Chassis Ground CONNECTED TO: | where:CAR- GROUND | wire color: | connector: #
    Brown: (-) 200ma Siren Output CONNECTED TO: Car | where:horn switch (white) | wire color: purple | connector: 20pin #10
    WHITE/ Brown: Parking Light Isolation Wire - PIN 87a light flash relay CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: | wire color: | connector: #
    White: Parking Light Output CONNECTED TO: Car | where:headlight switch, BLACK/ white | wire color: Gray | connector: 12pin #8
    Orange: 500mA Ground When Armed Ouput CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:GWR (-) INPUT | wire color: BLUE/WHITE | connector: 4pin #1

Door Lock, 3-Pin Connector

    Blue: (-) 500mA Unlock Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:UNLOCK (-) INPUT | wire color: BLUE/BLACK | connector: 10pin #2
    Not Used
    Green: (-) 500mA Lock Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT | wire color: GREEN/ BLACK | connector: 10pin #1

Remote Start, 8-Pin Heavy Gauge Connector

    Pink: (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output CONNECTED TO: Car | where:ignition switch, white | wire color: blue or pink | connector: 5pin #3
    RED / White: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 2 and Flex Replays CONNECTED TO: | where:N/A | wire color: | connector: #
    Orange: (+) Accessory Output CONNECTED TO: Car | where:ignition switch (white) | wire color: orange | connector: 5pin #5
    Violet: (+) Starter Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:STARTER (+) INPUT | wire color: BLACK/ White | connector: 10pin #8
    Red: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 1 Relay CONNECTED TO: ??
    Pink/White: (+) Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: | wire color: | connector: #
    Pink/Black: (+) Flex Relay Input 87A Key Side (If required) of Flex Relay CONNECTED TO: ??
    RED / Black: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for ACC and Starter Relays CONNECTED TO: ??

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-Pin Connector

    Pink/White: (-) 200mA Ignition/Flex Relay Control Ouput CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: | wire color: | connector: #
    BLACK/ White: (-) Neutral Safety Input CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:E-BRAKE STATUS (-) OUTPUT | wire color: GREEN | connector: 10pin #9
    Blue/White: (-) 200mA 2nd Status / Rear Defrogger Output CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: | wire color: | connector: #
    GREEN/ Black: (-) 200mA OEM Alarm Disarm Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:DISARM (-) INPUT | wire color: BROWN | connector: 10pin #4
    RED / White: (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:TRUNK/LIFTGATE (-) INPUT | wire color: RED / WHITE | connector: 10pin #3
    Green: (-) Door Trigger Input CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:DOOR STATUS (-) OUTPUT | wire color: YELLOW/BLACK | connector: 3pin #1
    BLACK / YELLOW: (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision Output CONNECTED TO: Car | where:driver dash fuse box, rear | wire color: Pink | connector: 10pin G #10
    Not Used
    Dark Blue: (-) 200mA Status Output CONNECTED TO: ??
    Pink: (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output CONNECTED TO: ??
    WHITE/ Black: (-) 200mA AUX 3 Output CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: | wire color: | connector: #
    Violet: (+) Door Trigger Input CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: | wire color: | connector: #
    WHITE/ Violet: (-) 200mA AUX 1 Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:LEFT SLIDING DOOR (-) INPUT | wire color: PURPLE / YELLOW | connector: 10pin #5
    Violet/Black: (-) 200mA AUX 2 Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:RIGHT SLIDING DOOR (-) INPUT | wire color: PURPLE / Black | connector: 10pin #6
    ORANGE / Black: (-) 200mA AUX 4 Output CONNECTED TO: N/A | where:N/A | wire color: | connector: #
    Brown: (+) Brake Shutdown Input CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:BRAKE (+) | wire color: GRAY/RED | connector: 6pin #5
    Gray: (-) Hood Pin Input (N/C or N/O) CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:HOOD STATUS (-) OUTPUT | wire color: YELLOW | connector: 3pin #3
    Violet / YELLOW: (-) 200mA Starter Output CONNECTED TO: ??
    Blue: Trunk Input CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:TRUNK STATUS (-) OUTPUT | wire color: YELLOW/RED | connector: 3pin #2
    Gray/Black: (-)Diesel Wait to Start Input CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: | wire color: | connector: #
    WHITE/ Blue: Activation Input CONNECTED TO: ??
    Orange: (-) 200mA Accessory Output CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: | wire color: | connector: #
    Violet/White: Tachometer Input CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:TACH (AC) OUTPUT | wire color: PURPLE / White | connector: 10pin #10
    GREEN / WHITE: (-) OEM Alarm Arm Ouput CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT | wire color: GREEN/ BLACK | connector: 10pin #1

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Bassel

One "last" questions for tonight...
* Is the GWA (Ground When Armed) on the viper the same as the GWR (Ground When Running) on the bypass?

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Bassel

No, the GWA is used for accessories, like power window modules or relays for starter kill. The viper should have a GWR output which you would connect to the bypass. I believe you can use the trunk ouput  for the power liftgate. You may need a diode for this. You can use the other aux channels to operate the sliding doors. Again you can use a diode also.

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2001 Corolla S and 2005 Neon SRT 4 ACR.

The Viper unit you have is the same as the new style 5501.  Check in the downloads section for that guide.   There might be
some connector consolidation with your unit but the wire names, colors and functions should be the same.

Main Harness:
* Parking Light Output: does it sent a negative or positive pulse? I would suspect neg, but did not find any documentation around this.
   The Viper has an internal Jumper/Fuse that selects Parking Light the output polarity.

Remote Start, 8-Pin Heavy Gauge Connector
* Red: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 1 Relay: Is it needed? If yes can I use the same power source as the main harness (12VDC Constant Input)?
   There are three "power" input wires in the H3 harness.  All should go to a suitable power source.
* Pink/Black: (+) Flex Relay Input 87A Key Side (If required) of Flex Relay: Does this pin needs to be connected?
   Not required in your application.
* RED / Black: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for ACC and Starter Relays: Does this pin needs to be connected?
  Absolutely.  Red, RED / White and RED / Black are all necessary.
 ****The Flex Relay/Selectable ignition output ( Pink/White ) will be programmed for Accessory2 and connected to that ignition wire.

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-Pin Connector
* Dark Blue: (-) 200mA Status Output: Does this pin needs to be connected? 
   Usually used for the bypass module if connected in the W2W mode.
*Pink: (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output: Does this pin needs to be connected?
  No.  It would be used to control an external relay if the vehicle has multiple Ignition wires.
* Violet / YELLOW: (-) 200mA Starter Output: Does this pin needs to be connected?
  No.  It would be used to control an external relay if the vehicle has multiple Starter wires.
* WHITE/ Blue: Activation Input: Does this pin needs to be connected?
  No.  Could be used for test purposes.

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Soldering is fun!

   Viper H3
 
    Pink: (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output CONNECTED TO: Car | where:ignition switch, white | wire color: blue or pink | connector: 5pin #3
    RED / White: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 2 and Flex Replays CONNECTED TO: White @ 5Pin #1
    Orange: (+) Accessory Output CONNECTED TO: Car | where:ignition switch (white) | wire color: orange | connector: 5pin #5
    Violet: (+) Starter Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:STARTER (+) INPUT | wire color: Yellow | connector: 5Pin #2
    Red: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for Ignition 1 Relay CONNECTED TO: White @ 5Pin #1
    Pink/White: (+) Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output CONNECTED TO: N/A | where: Red @ 5Pin #4  *** Flex Relay set to Acc2
    Pink/Black: (+) Flex Relay Input 87A Key Side (If required) of Flex Relay CONNECTED TO: Not Used
    RED / Black: (+) 12VDC Constant Input for ACC and Starter Relays CONNECTED TO:  White @ 5Pin #1


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Soldering is fun!

Super, many thanks guys! I did some additional research and the the GWR on the bypass would be connected to the Status on the Viper. Thanks for the 5501 documentation, very helpful and indeed lots of similarities!

A few questions remaining:

Q1: So the starter pin in the remote start would be connected to both the bypass and the car? Does not the bypass drive the starter through data?
>> Violet: (+) Starter Output CONNECTED TO: Bypass | where:STARTER (+) INPUT | wire color: Yellow | connector: 5Pin #2

Q2: Also do you believe I need to connect the "GREEN / WHITE: (-) OEM Alarm Arm Output" to the bypass "LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT" pin? The "Green: (-) 500mA Lock Output" is already connected to that pin.

Q3: WHITE/ Brown: Parking Light Isolation Wire - PIN 87a light flash relay => Is this one required? Could not really understand from the 5501 docs.

Q4: Any insight on the sliding doors and the power tailgate?

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Bassel

Q1
Looking at the EVO-CAN install guide for the 2012 Odyssey, the Type 4 connections do not show a (+) Starter connection
between the EVO-CAN and the Viper.  The ADS AL CA w/ADS AL(DL) HA3 firmware does show this connection, so the Viper's
H3 Violet Starter wire would connect to both, the Odyssey and the bypass module.  The Data connection would not perform
the start function ( and power the Ignition / Accessory wires, etc ).

Q2
The bypass modules Lock/Arm input would usually have only the R/S Lock wire connected to it.  The Lock input would
signal the bypass to do both a Lock and an Arm to the vehicle.  Same for the Unlock/Disarm bypass input. 

Q3
Not used for your application/vehicle. 

Q4
Trunk/Hatch Release  Orange (rear handle switch - w/o pwr tailgate) (-) rear fuse box, 49 pin plug (A), pin 16
On vehicles with power tailgate, when the power tailgate switch is pressed, it connects the brown and yellow
at the switch, 6 pin plug, pins 4 and 5, or 17 pin plug, pins 15 and 14. A relay would be used, Pins 30 and 87,
on the mentioned wires to emulate the switch function.

Power Sliding Door  white (open), brown (close), lt. green (common)  pwr sliding door sw, 12 pin plug, pins 8, 9, 7
When the power sliding door switches are pressed, it connects either the White (open) to the common ( Light Green ),
or the Brown (close) to the common ( Light Green ).  Two more relays to emulate the sliding door switch operation.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg - many thanks, your patience is greatly appreciated!

Regarding the sliding doors and in order to:
1) control the open/close operation using the same "Aux" button on the remote starter,
2) If the door is opening or open, clocking on the corresponding "Aux" button would get the door to close
I would need an "open"/"opening" status from the car, correct?

Too bad I can't attach pics but the logic would be similar to techtip 1085 for 99/03 Odysseys, on the right the wire "TO MULTIPLEX
CONTROL UNIT (IN VEHICLE)" / "TO SLIDER PINSWITCH GREEN/ YELLOW-DRIVER’S SIDE GREEN / WHITE-PASSENGER’S SIDE" feeds into pin #85 or the upper relay enabling the door to close when "open" or "opening" and the Aux is triggered... Did I miss anything?

Thanks!!!

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Bassel

I believe you are correct.

While I haven't done a 2011-12 Odyssey, it appears that DEI Tip 1085 might still apply ( with appropriate wire
color changes noted ).  The sliding doors open / closed "status" is input to the upper relay, Pin 85, via the
sliding door pinswitch ( with diode correctly added to vehicles circuit ).  Here is info from Omega on the rear
door pins :

Driver's Rear Door Pin     ORANGE (-)    REAR FUSE BOX 36 PIN CONN, PIN 12
Pass Rear Door Pin        GREEN (-)      REAR FUSE BOX 36 PIN CONN, PIN 11

Hopefully another forum member has done a new Odyssey and can confirm or add to this post.
Also note that the iDatalink bypass will control the sliding doors while the engine is OFF.

 

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Soldering is fun!

Good stuff, many thanks Kreg!

I have investigated a bit further the default behavior of the sliding doors (also applies to the power tailgate). When the button is pressed on the Honda remote and assuming the car is locked, the corresponding door/tailgate will unlock **then** open. I have also locked myself inside the Odyssey and only hitting the open switch for either the sliding doors or tailgate will just result in a beep.

So... In the remote setup when the Aux button is pressed I am looking to unlock the car and open the sliding door / tailgate, for this purpose do you believe that in addition to connecting the Aux to the sliding door circuitry I can connect all the "Aux" outputs of the remote starter to the "Unlock/Disarm" input of the bypass (protecting all connections to the Unlock/Disarm with diodes)?

Also do you know if there is a "car locked" status somewhere? this would enable me not to send the unlock event if the car is already unlocked!

I have the impression that with my setup (a la DEI Tip 1085) the sliding door / power tailgate operation on the bypass would be redundant! It may even confuse the system system (door gets a signal from the double relay & the bypass)?!

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Bassel

Lets make some assumptions.  ( I get confused easily.      )
1. Vehicle = 2012 Honda Odyssey
2. R/S = Viper 4704V
3. Bypass = ADS AL CA flashed with ADS AL(DL) HA3 Ver 1.11  Guide #9125
4. R/S to bypass in W2W mode

While I have never done it, flashing the ADS AL CA with the DBI AL(DL) HA3 firmware will allow the D2D connection
to the 4704V and eliminate a lot of wires between the two ( all the dashed lines ).  See install guide #9127.  It also
requires the DBI D2D harness not supplied with the ADS AL CA.  Also remember that the bypass install guide does
not show all the necessary wires from the R/S to the vehicle ( Parking Lights, horn and ignition wires come to mind ).

The bypass module does a lot for you but does have some limitations.  It controls the door locks thru Data, so
you don't have to make connections in the drivers door.  It supplies a Tach signal so you don't have to run a wire
into the engine compartment or across to the passenger kick panel.  And while it will allow door lock operation
under remote start it will not allow the sliding door or power liftgate to operate while the engine is running.

In W2W mode, you can select whether the Viper's AUX sliding door output goes to the bypass module or directly
to the vehicle.  The best bet would be to wire up the relays as per Tip 1085, connect them to the correct vehicle
wires ( and vehicle power & ground ) and manually trigger the input with a chassis ground pulse to verify it works.
If it does not function properly or requires an initial unlock/disarm pulse, you can make changes or just go with the
bypass modules control of those items.

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Soldering is fun!