2002 vw jetta r/s advice wanted
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131786
Printed Date: July 13, 2025 at 4:07 PM
Topic: 2002 vw jetta r/s advice wanted
Posted By: mchorvathm
Subject: 2002 vw jetta r/s advice wanted
Date Posted: July 09, 2012 at 8:26 PM
I'm looking into buying a car on wed (should be pretty easy to guess what make make/model/year if you read the title).
Im newer to the install game, I've watched a couple and I'm working on finishing the MECP.
From the information I have available to me, I will need to leave a key in the car as there are no bypasses for this. I read off the 2002 VW golf, to diode isolate the parking lights from the starter, any more info on this would be useful to me, as well as any info on other triggers to diode isolate (door triggers? or lock/unlock?) I've read the unlock pulse will disarm the factory alarm. Just for added info the car is a manual, with power windows. I've read this means I need to get the door pins off each door individually and I'm hoping someone has better info on this.
I've recently been employed at a local install bay and would be the only one here willing to tackel the VW. My hope is after doing it on my own car I will be able to succesfully and efficiently replicate the process for customers.
Any and all advise is welcome, let me know what you think. I'm also planning to use a compustar model with a blade bypass module, as they are readily available to me.
Thanks in advance. And Hello to the forum! (I'm new to the group)
Replies:
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: July 09, 2012 at 8:55 PM
That car really isn't that bad to do. There is info on here if you do a search and read some old posts. Howie is the german king when it comes to wiring and overall knowledge on here. If you are employed by an install bay, I'm sure they have access to wiring sites like directechs, wire magic, audiovox(which is free), installogy. Some of those sites have pictures and special info when integrating a remote start/security system into that car. If you do your homework, then that car is fairly simple. Just make sure you get alteast 2 keys if not 3 at the time of sale or work it into the car deal to get another one made. You will need a valet key(one without the keyless entry but with the chip). If you are doing remote start then that key will live under the dash as long as you want the remote start to be functional.
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Advanced
Posted By: mchorvathm
Date Posted: July 09, 2012 at 9:14 PM
I've done my homework and read a ton of Howie's posts, seems like the master haha. I have access to wire locations and colors, and I know what I'm looking for. I'm just hoping for any extra info specific to this car make/model/year and specs (manual/power windows). Basically just experiences from the guys that have done it would be great, like the things that aren't/weren't where they were supposed to be if that came up at all. It doesn't sound like an overly complicated install, I am still getting my head around diode isolation with car starters (blocking false alarms and retaining factory behaviors). More shall be read on this subject.
I always research my projects and I thought it might be worth asking for anything above and beyond what I've read so far, as I'd like this to go smoothly and not take 10hours, which is what the shop apparently quotes currently on any VW project. If I can get my car done well then we might be able to provide the service to customers for a reasonable price, instead of a rridiculous price.
I've also just learned the car comes with a valet key (something about previous owners using it for a security system? sounds like they must've had a car starter that has been removed and left the key??) I can't think of any other reason for a valet key for just an aftermarket alarm.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 11, 2012 at 5:26 AM
If this is a Mk IV, then a 556U is required.
If factory windows, lock/comfort close and unlock are in a horizontal loom in driver's door behind the switch panel. Both NEG (-), double pulse to unlock.
If aftermarket windows then lock/unlock is in the BCM box adjacent to the steering column.
BCM box
Domes..blue/white or similar colour look at the dome light to confirm.
Hatch/trunk THIN BROWN / black at BCM
Hood BROWN / ? at BCM (check under hood, switch is in catch).
Indicators, BLACK/ white, BLACK/ green at BCM, diode (1N5404) separate.
Cut factory alarm horn wire yellow/black at BCM.
Cut factory u/sonics if present, microphone type wire, black with two inners and a ground shield. If you don't the factory alarm will sound off 14 seconds after unlocking the doors.
Tach is at an injector or engine management, pin 5. I've had problems with these on joining the tach wire, it seems to have an adverse effect on the management, advise getting a DEI 465(?) tach sniffer.
Brakes BLACK/ red at brake switch.
Ignition wires are a PITA to get at.
You will need to diode separate AND block trunk(hatch) and hood triggers, see DEI 1076.
But not the dome light (The other two are inputs to the BCM, the dome light is an output).
Dome light supervision not required.
There that's the basics. I haven't given you ignition 1,2, or starter wires, the colours are different in North America.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mchorvathm
Date Posted: July 12, 2012 at 3:31 PM
Thanks for the "step by step" :D much appreciated. I've read even on factory power windows that I have to grab door triggers from each door? That true? And thanks for the clarification on inputs to the BCM on the hoodpin/trunk pin.
I'll look up those DEI's that you've mentioned and luckily for me I bought the car with 2 keys + a valet key. I'll try to locate the 556U.
Funny side story: the guy selling the car tried telling me that it was imported from Germany to Alberta (Canada) by the last owner. I looked at him and told him that wasn't likely as my carfax tells me it was manufactured in Mexico. He looked a little bit broken inside and I felt bad, but it was likely a Canadian car since day 1...
Posted By: mchorvathm
Date Posted: July 12, 2012 at 3:56 PM
well this is funny I just checked our bypass stock, and I found a 556uw, looks like it can handle everything I need it to, anyone know if it might not?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 12, 2012 at 5:58 PM
You definitely DON'T need separate door triggers, the dome light feed I mentioned shuts down with door lock and I've used that since the Mk IV came out back in about 98 with no problems.
Manufactured in Germany, Mexico (probably), that's where the Beetle comes from, S/Africa possibly, the US and China AFIK.
The 556UW is fine, wire it Euro fashion (I believe method 3 in the manual), cut off and discard the loop.
German manufactured should have something like ZZZ in the first few letters of the VIN. We only get German product in the UK apart from the Beetle.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mchorvathm
Date Posted: July 12, 2012 at 6:15 PM
Vin doesn't start with ZZZ.
Never though of Mexico, Germany, I'll review the carfax.
Thanks for the heads up on the dome light, that clears things up :D
Posted By: mchorvathm
Date Posted: July 12, 2012 at 7:48 PM
I see why tach is going to be a PITA. I'm looking forward to this now.
I'm having trouble finding anything about that tach sniffer.
I've found a couple different DEI tech sheets for 1076. As such I'm slightly confused on which one to follow.
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/1076.pdf
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/Tech_Tips_1076_Door_Trigger_Isolation.pdf
Posted By: mchorvathm
Date Posted: July 12, 2012 at 8:57 PM
Just want to toss this out there. Can I integrate the 556UW with the blade AL? (idatalink) The blade should be able to handle lock/unlock, arm/disarm, doors + hood + hatch status and tach signal! The only part about it that I don't like is that it doesn't look like it interfaces with the factory transceiver module and I'm not sure if that will be problematic. If anyone can jump on idatalink and check out the blade bypass I'd appreciate it knowing your thoughts on this approach. I'm wondering if I could wire the blade as type 3 rather then the recommended type 1 and let the 556UW take care of the transponder key.
Posted By: mchorvathm
Date Posted: July 12, 2012 at 9:01 PM
I'm wondering if the blade can even take care of the transceiver module via data, could be much more efficient install this way and require minimal hard wired attachments.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 13, 2012 at 12:32 AM
The first diagram, saves a relay. I know nothing about connecting it to the blade unless the blade lists those functions on a 2002 which I doubt.
The usual pro rule on any install is to run W2W, it's more reliable.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mchorvathm
Date Posted: July 13, 2012 at 9:13 PM
since I cant post pictures Ill just type this up.
VW jetta 2002, blade AL, wiring type 1 (includes wires to loop key and iginition barrel for bypass) I just dont like the way its not boxed up
Jetta 02-05 1 • • • • • • • • •
AL Module will be functional on these vehicles only if they are equipped with electric windows.
features = priority unlock, door lock, door unlock, arm oem alarm, disarm oem alarm, door stat output, hood stat output, trunk stat output, tachometer output.
I think I'm going to wire this blade up on a 2 way compustar and use the 556uw to bypass the key. I'm still figuring out how this setup would apply to -
FOR REMOTE START: The vehicle can be remote started without disarming the factory alarm by using a relay to open the BLACK/ BLUE wire (ignition sense) at the steering column during remote start. You will also have to run your remote starter's start output directly to the starter relay RED / BLACK on the back of the fusepanel to bypass the factory starter kill.
I imagine if the blade can disarm the oem alarm I wont need to do this.
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