dei 516u voice module

Hey all,

Trying to install a Directed 533P car alarm with the basic shock sensor and the 516U voice module addition. Have the alarm hooked up, works well with regular siren.

I'm trying to add the voice siren at the same time, but I get no sound what so ever, regular siren works though.

Steps I took:
- I posi-tapped the brown into the alarm brown that the regular siren is attached to.
- I didn't attach the yellow, maybe I will eventually, but I figured it is optional.
- I attached the orange to the alarms orange ground when armed.
- I posi-tapped the black ground to the alarm ground wire that is grounded.
- I posi-tapped the red into the alarms 12V constant red.
- I attached each gray to it's respective siren wire.
- As for the green-warn away input, I tried attaching it to 2 greens and a blue, nothing.
- As for the dipswitches, initially it was OFF/UP, OFF/UP, ON/DOWN, ON/DOWN, but I tried doing ON/DOWN, ON/DOWN, ON/DOWN, ON/DOWN and it still failed. I also adjusted the volume, but nothing.

Does it matter where the ground is tapped? You think the ground voltage can be coming out of the main brain and using the speaker as ground? If that's the case, should I diode it? Do you think I need to diode anything? I'm not currently using any diodes, just the regular shock sensor that has the green loop wire and the 3 wire output to brain on optional sensor.

Any help is much appreciated thanks!


I know this probably comes up a lot, but I researched the **** out of this before I decided to post, so sorry if someone had the same issue before hand.

Oh please note, the vehicle is a 2005 Ford F150 4.6L. I don't think you need that info, but posting it just incase so I don't get in trouble.

Oh crap I just realized, do you have to ground the Ground-When-Armed orange also? I didn't ground it, only connected it straight up. Maybe I'll try that tomorrow...

Yes, ground when armed is necessary, the yellow is the switched power, I believe that is necessary, but not sure, you should be able to attach it to the switched power coming out of the brain. I put the switched power into fuse tap for the garage door opener on my mirror, you need to meter where you tap into for the switched power, dont trust wiring diagrams. Hooking the brown up to the brain speaker line only allows silent mode alarming if your brain has that feature, it is optional.

One more thing, the green door trigger input is actually necessary for recording your own custom alarm messages. This has to go to ground while you are recording (it is negative trigger), so you have to keep a door open while recording custom messages (not your driver door because the ignition has to be on and the door gong is usually not a desireable noise for the background of your custom recorded messages.

There is not particular "warn away" input as far as I can tell. The manual says "if a dual-stage sensor is used, inputs shorter than 0.8 seconds will report the warn Away/Violation custom recorded message."

So for each of the three inputs for your custom recorded messages, there are three possible messages, a full alarm message, a violation/warn away message, and an error message. While all that makes sense, my 508D Field Disturbance Sensor has two separate wires for the warn away (first stage) 500mS alarm and the full alarm (second stage) 1S alarm. So what am I supposed to do? Tap into both of them for the custom trigger and diode protect? Not sure. Really, I just want the Warn-Away to be a custom message, so this isnt a big problem. The big problem is figuring out how to disable the chirps of my brain. Now that I have a voice speaking "system armed" or "system disarmed" and a voice speaking the warn-away message, I dont need the system chirps anymore, in fact they get in the way. But the 516L merely says something about removing the chirp module from the main alarm. I dont see anything about a "chirp module" in my Viper 3303 manual. I can stop the chirps in the feature programs, but then the 516L doesnt spit out its message. Annoying. :(

Oh sorry, I have a 516L, not sure what is different with a 516U.

quasimodem wrote:

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The big problem is figuring out how to disable the chirps of my brain. Now that I have a voice speaking "system armed" or "system disarmed" and a voice speaking the warn-away message, I dont need the system chirps anymore, in fact they get in the way. But the 516L merely says something about removing the chirp module from the main alarm. I dont see anything about a "chirp module" in my Viper 3303 manual. I can stop the chirps in the feature programs, but then the 516L doesnt spit out its message. Annoying. :(

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Well, I think I have figured out what I need to do here, but not how to do it. I need to remove the chirp from the horn. I want the 508D to continue sending its chirp signal, because that triggers the Warn Away message from the 516L and it allows the 516L to keep using the horn monitor wire allowing silent arming and disarmiung. I would also like to be able to enable and disable the chirps from the horn for programming purposes (say using a toggle switch). So I just have to be able to either mount a switch on the main horn disabling chirps, or switch between two mounted horns -- the original which has chirps, and one that doesnt have the chirp ability.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah unfortunately they're quite different. Do you know if you actually ground out the orange on the body? Or is that totally wrong? Maybe it is the yellow that I need... I'll have to try it later.

Check this out though, here is the install guide for yours: 516L
Install guide for mine: 516U

Yeah all I know is the dipswitches are supposed to configure chirp on the voice module itself, but I think I read somewhere all you need to do is remove a wire to disable the chirps from the main brain? It reads off the GWA (Orange) and the Brown, but is says brown is optional, so maybe try to disconnect the brown from the voice module temporarily or disconnect the orange, try one of those? Maybe I'm wrong though, I'm a newbie to this stuff.

Right, they are very different. You have no microphone input for recording custom messages. :(

The GWA output of the alarm to send a signal to your accessories, i.e. the 516L,so that the voice module can say "viper armed" or "viper disarmed".  You would only need to diode isolate if you had more than one accessory, i.e. DEI 529t or DEI 530t. Did you connect the blue(neg. hood/trunk trigger) and the green(neg. door trigger)? The yellow wire is necessary if you have a remote start and would be connected the the ignition. Just check your connections....

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2001 Corolla S and 2005 Neon SRT 4 ACR.

benzo33 wrote:

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The GWA output of the alarm to send a signal to your accessories, i.e. the 516L,so that the voice module can say "viper armed" or "viper disarmed".  You would only need to diode isolate if you had more than one accessory, i.e. DEI 529t or DEI 530t. Did you connect the blue(neg. hood/trunk trigger) and the green(neg. door trigger)? The yellow wire is necessary if you have a remote start and would be connected the the ignition. Just check your connections....

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Nah I don't have those modules or the doors/locks hooked up. Don't have remote start.   Just a basic basic. I'll check my connections.

Thanks for the advice.

Yeah so I checked all my connections, the screwed up thing is that the normal siren works and I have the same siren input wire going to the siren as I do to the 516U. Also, the same 12V coming from the engine is going into the 516U.

Do you know if the orange needs to be actually grounded? It's connected to the brain, but not grounded.

nvm, I'm good on the orange. Anybody know how to test the siren? It's just the kind with 2 wires, both brown the go to gray.

No.

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2001 Corolla S and 2005 Neon SRT 4 ACR.

Yeah so get this...

I check all my connections:
- I attach yellow for ignition
- Orange GWA had 50 on 2000m, then when I arm it had none (GWA I'm guessin')
- I'm pretty damn sure the siren wire works, but the GWA is more important anyway.
- Gray speaker output does a constant 11 volts
- I attach re-attached the ground to a zero resistance ground and my speaker made a popping noise, like it was on every time I touched it to ground.
- Siren/Speaker also has continuity and reads 0 for resistance when I attach multimeter. Should it have resistance?

Anybody know if with that information the speaker/siren would be good or bad?

Yeah so... the speaker was perfectly good. It turns out that the 516U they sent me was DOA. Bought a 516L (or whatever it is, the newer one) and it worked no problems. Hooked it up the same too. Now I have a PA, recorder and a badass voice module. If anybody reads this, just buy the newer version.

Good last comment there but your first post said "positapped" I hope you really meant soldered, that would explain any bad connections.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I am sure you will be happier with the 516L. I have my motion detector warn away playing a clip I got off of Youtube from an old star trek episode where the Enterprise's computer is saying "self destruct sequence completed and engaged" from:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOvuzrpHqwo

:)

I was able to pull the mic connector out of the the unit and plug my Iphone directly in to record, but you have to test and change the output volume so as not to overwhelm the recording unit of the 516L