2000 sebring convertible top control?

I have a 2000 sebring convertible. Would like one of the acc outputs to put the top up through the alarm. Anyone ever do this? Any ideas on how it needs to be done??? Also any info if I need a bypass mod. for this car?

thanks

Steve

Does the top work with or without the ignition?
If it works without, how is the switch wired?
Or the closing side of the motor? Do you have access to wiring diagrams, either a photo or a link?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

do you want to be able to hold a button on the remote to close the top? or would you like this to happen automatically when you arm the car? either way is possible but it will probably be an easier install to just hold a button rather than automatic.



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Top only works with ign on. There are 5 wires.

White--12v

Black-?

BLACK / YELLOW- 12v going up

RED / white- 12v going down

black-?

I used a test light to find this out. Im sure if I need 12v all thet time I can run a wire from the white one to a constant source. Thoughts????

I would only like to hit a button on the remote to close it. Its a pretty far walk to my car and my 17yo kid drives now. Already got it drenched once. Running to the car getting soaked and waiting for the top to go up sucks!!!

i wouldnt do anything else until you can get your hands on a digital meter instead of a test light.

is the white wire 12v all the time or just with the ignition on?

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Oh and I have the Avital 5303. here is a link. https://www.avital.com/Products/Product.aspx?path=Remote Start ampersand Security System&id=5000

12v only with ign on. I have a meter too.

Sorry 12v constant...not ign......

ok so if the switch is constant 12v but the top doesnt work with the car off probably meant that you might have to run wires directly to the motor. will the top still close right after you turn the ignition off? there could be a delayed ignition that only turns off after you open a door. a lot of cars have this function for the windows so it might be like that on your top too.

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ok the top stops when you shut off the ignition. Do you have any idea on how the relay will be wired???

Yes, try replacing that white with a constant fused at either the battery or the cabin fusebox constant feeder cable.Use a fuse of the same rating.
If that works here are two ways to do it.
Automatic:-
roof_open_or_close.bmp
This method will give you automatic close and either controlled open or
open as long as you hold on to the aux button depending on whether you set that aux for timed or pulsed. Note the two 1N4004 diodes.
Holding the button, two relays connected as per the 5 wire diagrams in the relay section.
Note if the roof has latches which you have to close manually, then the automatic method is a waste of time.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks a ton for the help. Should be installing it tomorrow. Picking it up in a few minutes. Will give an update when its finished!

OK so I missed those posts whilst composing the pretty diagram, go to the motor and revert the switch back to it's original white wire.
For simple closing do this:-roof_close.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie! I like that a lot better!!! Thank you for your help! Just picked up the alarm, rollup mods and all the stuff. Hope to get it in tomorrow. Looks like its a full days work. Should be fun! ?!?!?!?!?

Steve

Howie...87a is that cut and one goes to 30 and the other 87a??

The wire at the motor that sits on ground then goes to 12V+ on closing the roof is the only one you need to cut.
Switch side to 87a.
Motor side to 30.
Aux output via 1N4004 to 85, diode band to alarm side.
12v+ constant fused at the same rating as the original roof fuse to 86 and 87.
1N4004 diode across the coil, band side to 86.



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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

the wire at the motor that shows positive when the top goes up, this wire gets cut and hooked to 30 and 87a. the side that goes to the motor must go to 30 or else it wont work.

edit: howie beat me to it....

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Sorry for all the questions! The diode that goes on 86. Is that going in series on 86 only or is that actually going across 86 and 87? Im thinking it only goes on 86. At least thats what makes sense to me! Thanks again for all the help. If you guys are in the philly area anytime look me up. Beers on me!!!

Steve

Across 85 and 86, band towards 86, look at my last picture again.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

OK I had no luck with the top. Connected everything as told. Did not even hear the relay click. Could it be a setting on the alarm? Here what it says for the alarm. So it looks like its all ready set for me.
Validity is the setting being used. Thoughts???


This wire provides 200 mA programmable output whenever the transmitter button(s) controlling Aux 3 is pressed. This output can be programmed to provide the following types of outputs
Validity: Output that sends a signal as long as the transmission is received.
Latched: Output that sends a signal when the Aux channel button is pressed • and continues until the same button is pressed.
Latched, reset with ignition: Similar to the latched output, this type of output • turns On the first time the Aux channel button is pressed, and turns Off the next time the same button is pressed. This type of output additionally stops and resets whenever the ignition is turned On and then Off.

That wire should be timed or validity with validity it waits about 1-3 seconds before acting.
Now go to back to basics:-
You heard the relay click?
No, then disconnect at 85 and apply a ground to 85.
If it works test that aux lead to 85. Did you diode it?
If you didn't as per instructions in previous picture, you've probably fried the alarm's output stage.
Disconnect the lead at 30 and connect to a 12V source.
Nothing? Make sure it's the motor side. No?
Changeover the leads at 30 and 87a.
Still nothing?
Double check the relay wiring.
N.B. If you've done this at thy switch end, start again and do it at the motor end
Schematic:-chrysler_roof.bmp
This is a generic flow path of what happens.
First question..How many wires at the motor?
There might also be some safety interlocks, parking brake on? Doors closed?
N.B. As I said before, if the roof has closing clamps non of this will work.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

By the way, you didn't read the install guide properly.

Page 12 section 12
Aux 2 validity.
latched,latched with ignition, TIMED, either 30, 60 or 90 seconds, time your roof to go up and add 2 seconds then select the nearest time above.
You will also need a DEI 451 lock module to operate the locks on your vehicle they are a POS (+) trigger.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It works!!! Seems that I only put one diode in...not two. Would like to thank you guys for all the help! Almost finished! Got the window roll up mods in, remote start is almost done, trunk release done, Now if I can figure out a way to lock my wife in there so she cant get out that would top it all off!!!
Thanks again!!!

Steve

Great! Can't over estimate the importance of those 1cent bits.
My ex-wife once said that if won the lottery would I cut her in?
I said no I could have her sleep with the fish for less money.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

OK got one more for you experts. Installed the window roll up mods. Drivers side front and rear and pass rear work fine. The pass window goes down fine, but it stops about a couple inches going up and I ahve to hit the switch a few times for it to completely close??? Any ideas??? Hoping I do not have to run a wire from the pass to the drivers side!! Thoughts???

What closers and are they close only?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

here is a link. Its the autopage AC-78. They go up, down and crack. https://www.autopageusa.com/t_inside.cfm?action=products&catid=1005&prodID=33c4cf96-33d2-4685-8f2f-7d1992e255e2

Really dont understand what happened They have thick wires that go to the motor and thin that go to the switch. So I know they are all correct. Rechecked the wire plugs and the connections. I soldered everything. Thanks again!!!

Run the 4 wire to each pair of motor wires between the door switch and the motor.
The "bad" window, spray the channels with non-silicon lubricant or WD-40 at a pinch, motor it up and down a few times till it eases off.
I never did these on older cars unless the owner was prepared to have the windows adjusted.
Or, loosen all the bolts holding the motor and regulator until it runs smoothly then tighten up.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks I will give it a try tomorrow. Way too hot today and Tstorms are coming. Plus I am totally exhausted! I loved doing this when I was younger and was employed by Circuit City as an installer many years ago. Shame I cant remember anything!!!

Wait to you get to my age (65) and you can't remember what happened 5 minutes ago.
Or my 14 year old grandson is now taller 6'2" than me

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

OK so everything seems to be working fine. Thank god. All but one thing. The remote start will start the car and then it shuts down. I did not connect the factory alarm disarm wire. On the alarm its a neg output on the car the wire is pos. Relay needed right? Also I am not sure if there is an immobilizer in there or not? Any ideas? Im 99% done! Pretty happy too. Nice clean install.

Shuts down immediately or after about 10-15 seconds?
Does it start and run if you leave the key in the ignition (turned off)?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

When the key is in the ign it starts fine with the remote WTH? I need a break! Without the key it cranks and starts then shuts off all with in a couple seconds. Please tell me its an easy fix!!!

you need an immobilizer bypass. is the key for your car black or grey?  the grey key has a chip inside, the black key doesnt.

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Its grey. Does it matter what type I get?

dei/xpresskit makes the PKCH1 for your car that needs 2 keys to program it but im not sure if it is availiable or not. other than that it looks you might have to sacrifice an extra key to the remote start gods with a 556UW universal bypass. if you end up with the universal bypass i would suggest getting an extra key made for your car but leaving it uncut so it cant be used by itself to start your car.

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OK Looked up the PKCH1. Thats not compatible with my car. The other is universal. Right? I only have one key. Do I need to go to the dealer and get another one with the transponder in it or can I just get a regular key made???

Fortin EVO-ALL, goes back to 2001 but maybe your electrics are 2001.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

i think no matter what you will have to get another key made because the data bypasses seem to need two keys to program it anyway. like i said, if you use a universal bypass leave the new key uncut if possible so it cant be used in the ignition cylinder. you can always get it cut later if you need it.

also if you want, you can get a normal key cut without a transponder, then put your normal key in the universal bypass and rig it to work on a hidden switch. warning though, this is a rig solution and i dont recommend leaving it like that. but it will work for temporary

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The Fortin unit if applicable only needs one key for programming, worth calling them.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.