1999 dodge ram viper 5704

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131891
Printed Date: June 15, 2024 at 3:38 PM

Topic: 1999 dodge ram viper 5704

Posted By: uf-engineer
Subject: 1999 dodge ram viper 5704
Date Posted: July 26, 2012 at 8:42 PM

1999 Dodge Ram Python 574 / Viper 5704 Help

I’m new to alarms installs but not to wiring, soldering, using a DMM. I intend to verify all my connection prior to soldering. I hate using black tape. Is there an alternative without cutting the connection wire?

According to a few sources, my truck has the following configuration:

Constant 12V+ Pink/Black or Red Ignition Switch Harness

Starter Yellow or Blue / YELLOW Ignition Switch Harness, Must Add Relay for Remote Start

Ignition Dark Blue Ignition Switch Harness

Ignition 2 BLACK/ White Ignition Switch Harness

Accessory BLACK/ Orange Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC)

Tach BLACK/ Gray PCM Passenger's Rear of Engine on Firewall

Neutral Safety Wire BLACK/ White (-) Ignition Switch Harness

Brake Switch WHITE/ Tan Brake Switch or Ignition Switch Harness

Trunk Pin n/a

Parking Lights BLACK / YELLOW (+) Driver's Kick Panel White Connector Driver's Kick Panel

Head Lamp Light GREEN/ Black Steering Column

Factory Disarm Light GREEN/ Orange ( -) 24 Pin Connector behind Driver's Dash

Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel White Connector Driver's Kick

Door Lock ORANGE / Purple (REV) 10 Pin Connector Driver's Kick Panel Reverse Polarity

Door Unlock Pink/Purple Driver's Kick Panel

Driver's Lock ORANGE / Black Left Kick Panel

Driver's Unlock Pink/Black Left Kick Panel

Passenger Unlock Pink/Purple Left Kick Panel

Horn Wire BLACK/ Red (-) 74 Pin Connector behind Driver's Dash

Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=BROWN / White

Windows Down LF=White, RF=PURPLE / White

I have a glass break sensor to add. I’m considering a remote window control sensor as well.

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector 1999 Dodge Ram

H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT . . . Pink/Black @ Ignition Harness

H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND . . . Ground to Frame

H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT . . . To Siren

H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay Not Used

H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT . . . (+) Black / Yellow Behind Headlight Switch. Set Flash polarity on alarm brain.

H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Window roll-up otherwise not used

H2 Harness, 24-pin connector 1999 Dodge Ram

H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT . . Not Used

H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT . . . . . Ground to Frame or Hood Pin DIODE NEEDED ?

H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT . . (-) 200mA Holds amps when activated ... Not Used

H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT . . . Not Used

H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT . . . . Not Used

H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) . . . . (-) Yellow Behind Headlight Switch

H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT . . . To Relay 85 pin. Put 12v to 86 pin. H2/6 to pin 30 on relay. Pin 87 to ground or 12 Volts (verify what triggers dome light).

H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT . . . . (-) Black / Red at steering column

H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT . . . . . Not Used

H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT . . . . . Not Used

H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT . . . . . To drive external relay, window roll-up option otherwise not used

H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT . . . . . Not Used

H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT . . . . . To drive external relay, window roll-up option otherwise not used

H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT . . . . . To drive external relay, window roll-up option otherwise not used

H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT . . . . . To drive external relay, window roll-up option otherwise not used

H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT . . . . . (+) White / Tan at Brake Pedal Switch

H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O) . . . . . (-) Hood Pin Switch

H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT . . . . Used to drive external relay typ for clutch bypass, not used

H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) . . . (-) Hood Pin Switch (Diode ?)

H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT . . . . Not used

H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT . . Not used

H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT . . . . . Not used

H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT . . . . . Black / Gray @ Ignition Coil

H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT . . .Not Used

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector 1999 Dodge Ram wire

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT . . . . . Dark Blue

H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) . . . . 12V Source (Red or Pink/Black @ ignition Harness)

H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT . . . . . . Black / White @ Ignition harness

H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) . . . Cut Yellow @ ignition harness. Connect to car side of yellow wire.

H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) . . . Cut Yellow @ ignition harness. Connect to key side of yellow wire.

H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) . . . . . Dark Blue

H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)........... Cut BLACK/ orange @ ignition harness. Connect to car side of BLACK/ orange wire.

H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) .......Cut BLACK/ orange @ ignition harness. Connect to key side of BLACK/ orange wire.

H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) . . . 12V Source (Red or Pink/Black @ ignition

H3/10 NC No Connection . . . . . . .

Door Lock, 3-pin connector

1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT . . . . . .

2 EMPTY NOT USED . . . . . . . . External Relay req’d (No Factory Fob)

3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT . . . . . . . External Relay req’d (No Factory Fob)

My questions: Can someone please verify my wiring? I’m not sure I’m interpreting the installation manual correctly. DEI is very confusing. Where do I need to add relays? Do I need to add any diodes anywhere? It appears that this unit has onboard relays. Can I use any of them? Do I need an other relay for remote start?

Thanks for all your help.

Mike

Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 26, 2012 at 8:51 PM

Noticed this straight away...

H3/6 Red goes to 12V Source (Red or Pink/Black) @ ignition

It is the power input for H3/1 Pink Ignition output.

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 26, 2012 at 9:08 PM

Also noticed this :
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)........... Cut BLACK/ orange @ ignition harness. Connect to car side of BLACK/ orange wire.
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) .......Cut BLACK/ orange @ ignition harness. Connect to key side of BLACK/ orange wire.

Not sure what you're doing here but typically H3/8 is not used. H3/7 should be
connected to the un-cut BLACK/ Orange wire and the programming set to ACC2
( Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2 ).

Probably want to test the BLACK/ Orange and BLACK/ White ignition wires.
DEI has them both listed as Accessory wires while Bulldog shows them
as you listed.

Cutting the wires and using heat shrink tube just to avoid using black tape is
not advisable. If the connection was close to a connector, you could de-pin the
wire, make the solder connection, apply heat shrink tube and re-insert the pin.
However, a quality black tape, like Scotch Super 33+, properly applied is the
easiest way to go.

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 26, 2012 at 9:24 PM

Thank you for the help. See anything else. It looks like I'm going to need a relay for the dome light H2/7 and the door actuators.

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 26, 2012 at 10:09 PM

No sure if dome light supervision is necessary. Does the truck currently
have Factory Remote Keyless Entry? Is yes, does the dome light come on with
an Unlock? If it does you shouldn't need that connection.

Might be easiest to use a DEI 451M module for the door locks. Nice, compact
package w/relays and fuse for under $10. Here is a link to the 451M install
guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726

Didn't notice anything else in your wire connection list. posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 27, 2012 at 6:18 AM

The car does not have keyless entry or dome light delay but does have electric door locks.

Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: July 27, 2012 at 7:09 AM

I did my brothers Ram Pick-up a cople of years ago. his has power locks, but not keyless entry. Should be a type "C" lock system.

Go to the downloads section and look for Door Locks DF 1041. It will explain how to test for the wires and how to connect them to you Remote Start system. It will give you keyless entry then.

I used two relays, was a bit confusing, I blew a fuse on the first try but did get it to work. A dei 451m Relay is less work than two relays.

Do a search on 99 dodge ram, might find other info here on the lock system.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122430&KW=smokeman1

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Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 27, 2012 at 1:58 PM

Smoke, thanks for the info.

Question: Where do I mount the control module? The unit with two antennas. Can I hide it or does it have to be exposed to transmit? Thanks

Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: July 27, 2012 at 4:44 PM

Most people mount it up in the center of the windshield for the best signal. I suppose it could be hidden or under the dash, but i'm sure it will cut down on the distance the signals are picked up.

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Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 27, 2012 at 6:22 PM

i have put the last few of my antennas up under the headliner by the windshield. seems to work just fine with enough range for my tastes but my windshield is also tinted with a metal based film so im definitely not getting the total possible range. i installed my alarm after i tinted the windshield so i cant tell you what the difference in range would be.

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Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 9:44 AM

Thanks for all the help.

I have some more questions:

Can you program the brain/alarm without the Bitwriter? I believe you can but want confirmation.

What menus are available without the bitwriter?

How do you jump between menus and options when programming without the bitwriter?

Thanks

Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 10:07 AM

It should explain this in the Install Manual...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 10:47 AM

The installation guide that I got is the quick reference install guide. I downloaded the 5701 installation guide but I don't know if it is the same as the 5704.

Thanks

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 10:49 AM

Here is a link to the 5704 Quick Reference Guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1126

Page 3 describes the programming procedure with a remote and also list a table of "BitWriter" only options.

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 11:13 AM

Thanks Kreg.

So if I have a glass break sensor, the sensor operates on zone 4 and the regular dual shock operates on zone 2. As I understand it, I can't activate the glass break sensor without the bitwriter? I would hate to have to wire the two sensors together.

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 11:35 AM

If I use the DEI 451M module can I unlock each door seperately or will both door unlock or lock at the same time. FYI, I have a two door truck.

Thanks for all your help.

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 12:07 PM

Here is some info from DEI on the locks :

Keyless models use positive trigger for lock, and 5-wire for unlock. Can also
find wires at the central timer module to the right side of the steering column,
lock is ORANGE / green, unlock is pink/green.

I believe these wires will do a lock or unlock all. If you wanted progressive
unlock, you would need more than just the DEI 451M. A 30/40A SPDT relay and fuse
would be required. Here is info on the drivers door unlock motor wire from Omega :

Motor Driver Unlock PINK/BLACK 16 PIN CONNECTOR IN DR. KICK PANEL
Circuit Type - Reversal Rest At Ground.

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 12:51 PM

Thanks Kreg.

Any idea on the glass break sensor?

"So if I have a glass break sensor, the sensor operates on zone 4 and the regular dual shock operates on zone 2. As I understand it, I can't activate the glass break sensor without the bitwriter? I would hate to have to wire the two sensors together."

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 1:05 PM

To change the Zone 4 Sensor Type from the Option 1 default ( None ) to Option 5 ( Glass Break ) would require a BitWriter. posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 3:04 PM

The glass break sensor came with a wye harness with convenient plugs. Can I still use the wye harness? How would I wire them in and configure them to work together?

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 7:15 PM

The Viper and it's alarm sensors are not my usual brand, sorry. I wouldn't want to steer you in the wrong direction. Hopefully another forum member can supply the answer you seek.

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: July 28, 2012 at 8:41 PM

Okay. Thanks Kreg. Hopefully someone will chime in soon.

Mike

Posted By: chuck216
Date Posted: August 19, 2012 at 2:36 AM

Hey UF. I installed a 5704 in my 2004 Explorer yesterday and today, and I think I can answer at least one of your questions:

I was also concerned about the zone 4 sensor input not working without a bitwriter. I'm using the 2-stage motion detector rather than a glass break sensor, since I'm also using a Piezo, and i've heard that those don't mix well with the glass break sensor. The port actually isn't disabled by default, even though it says it's off. It alarms on my 2-stage properly, but the remote just reads "Warn Sensor 2" or "Alarm Sensor 2". I'd imagine with the bitwriter, it would read "Glass Break" or something similar if set to that type. You could also add as many additional sensors as you'd like by cutting the harness at the "Brain" end and splicing into the same colored wires on another sensor, but from what I understand, you'd have to diode isolate the green and blue wires to prevent false alarms.

The install guide is a little confusing. It kind of looks like all the menu items might be bitwriter only options, since they're all listed beneath it, but in actuality, only the first menu listed under bitwriter only is so, all the rest of the menus can be accessed via remote control - control button - siren chirp kung-fu moves. It will take you several attempts to get the feel for the menus... Trust me on that one :)

Posted By: chuck216
Date Posted: August 19, 2012 at 2:53 AM

Hey, just thought of this as well: The RF antenna unit has the control button for the system as well as the LED status light, so you probably want to have that somewhere visible.

I like the deterrence factor of having a visible LED in the vehicle, Especially when it's not just the standard blinky red deal. The 5704 has a super-bright blue LED that looks pretty sweet, plus having it on some crazy gadget with antennas is at least going to tell a would-be thief that there's something more than a budget el-cheapo alarm in this car.

Also, that unit has the control button, which is necessary for linking your remotes, programming the system, learning the tach and all that type stuff, so you at least want to have it somewhere where you can reach it to do all this.

It seems the common spot for this is up on the headliner or on the windshield above the rear-view. I actually installed mine top center of the dash right above where the trim bezel for the stereo snaps in. My Explorer has some things at the top-center of the windshield that makes it a "less-than-optimal" spot for it, and i figure with my truck, the top of the dash gets it at least as high as the windshield in most cars. It's still a fresh install and there's much tweaking to be done, so I'll have to see how it plays out on the range. I'm rarely more than 1 mile away from my vehicle, so I expect I'll be fine in that regard.

Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions about this particular alarm. I'm by no means an expert, but I did research extensively before my install and I'm happy to pass along anything I've learned about this system. I can't speak to your specific vehicle, but I'm happy to try to help you figure it out.

Posted By: uf-engineer
Date Posted: August 19, 2012 at 11:36 AM

Thanks Chuck

The glass break came with a why harness which allows you to connect both double shock & glass break sensor together. I get a senosr alart when either sensor is triggered. I mounted the RF just below the rear view mirror. It seem to be working just fine.

I also installed the window module which is a nice feature. I get you with the programming. It takes some getting use to but once you figure it out it's not to bad.